The Beast.... she moves!

Didn't go far, just about 10 B road miles in total, but it was so good to get the car out of the garage and to listen to that V8 roar again!

The EAS took a while longer than I'd expected to come up to height, but it did get there, and worked OK. Even in those 10 miles I was reminded of all the other things that were on my list before the valley gasket took over - the back end wallows all over the place, so bushes and shocks are in order.

But for the moment I'm just going to chill out and enjoy the moment, and having a car that can move under its own power.

Thanks again.

Well...... it started, and it ran, and the only leak was self-inflicted!

It did take a little while to start, but nothing I'd say was untoward. A few whisps of smoke from round the exhaust manifolds - prob the shine burning off new stuff - but then that settled down.

The leak was ATF from one of the oil cooler pipes which seems (so far) to be the only thing I forgot to tighten up. There was a 'transmission fault' showed up on the dash, but hopefully that will clear itself second time around.

Ran it about 1750rpm for about 15 mins and figured that would do before I gassed myself.

So generally pretty happy so far. Thanks for all your help and advice through this latest chapter.

Gentlemen, thank you. I feel much better prepared.

That's a good perspective on the coolant filling, and the transmission pressurising thing was something I wouldn't have thought of in a month of Sundays! I wouldn't really want to drive it away from the house; and if moving it a short distance out of the garage could cause transmission problems then it might need to stay put for the camshaft run-in. What fun!

Maybe I'll need to drag out my small scuba tank to avoid being gassed. Hopefully no-one will be standing by with a camera to catch sight of me leaning into the engine bay to check things out with a regulator in my mouth!!

Thanks as always.

Can I just check something Richard? You'd outlined that filling procedure before, and I'd read it again, and again and just hadn't "got it". Now, if I was to put it this way: "Fill the cooling system as much as you can with the bleed hose from the top of the rad disconnected - _emphasized text_at the expansion tankemphasized text" Would that be right? (Italics haven't worked quite right, but hopefully you'll get the gist.)

I was visualising it (being a numpty) with it disconnected at the radiator end, and just couldn't see how it would work. Now I think I might have it.

Thanks also for the confirmation of the fuel priming.

I'll update tomorrow!

Thanks ac - yep, that lifting eye is bolted to the back of the RH head, so we're on the same page there.

On coolant, I'd left the 'top hose' between the engine and rad disconnected and filled it there. That way I knew it was going to the block, and into the rad. I could also see that it was making it's way to the expansion tank so I'm reasonably confident that the block is full, along with the rad itself.

The problem is that I can't really let it idle. That would absolutely be my instinct, but as mentioned above somewhere, the instructions for the new camshaft are quite specific - start up and run at 2000RPM for the first 20 minutes! I don't really know if I'll follow that to the letter, maybe 10 minutes will do...? but idling seems to be a 'bad thing' as far as they're concerned.

D-Day tomorrow though. I need to get some more red OAT coolant to hand, and I also need to adjust the steering UJ link to a closer approximation of 'straight ahead' and then I'm left with three (possibly numpty) questions:
1) Will the fuel system need primed at all? Given that the inlet/injector pipes were completely dry?
2) Can I just disconnect the EAS pump? I have 'fuckered' sensor issues, and would rather leave that out of my worry equation when starting the engine after a rebuild

3) Anything else a numpty ought to consider at this stage?

Hi Richard, thanks. Good to know it's possible to take the screen off without trashing that strip. Whether that would happen up here, I guess I'll find out sooner or later.

On firing up asap - I suspect that's down to inexperience. To be honest it just didn't occur to me. At one point, at the back of my mind I did think that I was bolting a lot of stuff back together that might need to come apart again, but on the other hand I'd have wondered whether it would have started without all its plugs in place and the loom intact.

I'm also thinking about the requirement/suggestion that the new camshaft & followers want to run at 2000RPM for 20 minutes - or whatever seems sensible at the time. Because the car is reversed into the garage my plan is, assuming it starts, to just ease out of the garage and let that 'running in' take place outside. Not sure the neighbours would appreciate the lovely noise the same way you would!

Thanks guys - I'd meant to reply earlier, but I find it difficult with the ipad.

Here's a pic of the earth lead I mentioned, on a RHD car.

I'd have been happy enough to leave it, but it's a P38, and it's electrical... but in fact when I was "in the neighbourhood", I noticed that the engine lifting eye hadn't been tightened down, so I just stuck it on to one of those bolts.

On the oil separator it was in fact only in the RH cover. I'd assumed it was just missing from the LH. I stuck in what was left of the broken one - about 3/4 of it, so I'm sure it's better than nothing.

ac6 - I could have posted a lot more mumps and groans.... I didn't enjoy my manifold heat shields either! I did spend a couple of hours though grinding off all the old captive nuts; replacing them with 'rivnuts'; sticking the anti-rattle wire pads back on; and stainless bolts on the rebuild - looks more or less good as new. Also I'm sure I will be overjoyed when (if!) it starts again, but there will be a healthy amount of finger crossing, hoping for the best, and touching wood in the last few moments before turning the key!

Car is now more or less back together; filled with oil; could only get ca. 6L of coolant in but that might be enough as the block wasn't drained? But I'm going to wait till the weekend rather than trying to do this when I've already done a day's work.

Already looking to the next thing - finally getting the windscreen rebonded. I'd like to get this done properly but if the windscreen guys are going to use wire saws to remove it, surely they're going to trash the sealer strip between the dash and the glass on the inside? Item 35 in the diagram below.

It's not showing up as a part number, so maybe no longer available? Does anyone know for sure if that's the case? Is it just some foam that could be replaced with generic stuff?

Will update on the engine starting at the weekend!

Well.... looking back through photos I took of the strip down, I find it hard to believe the engine hasn't turned since mid-April.

Nearly there now though. It's looking more like it used to, and the 'strip down' photos are invaluable in remembering where the snakes nest of different pipes and cables are supposed to go.

Might turn over tomorrow, might need to wait till the weekend.

Couple of questions if anyone drops by....

1) the earth lead that attaches to the bonnet - where does it go on the other end? I'm assuming the back of the O/S cylinder head somewhere - but no photos show this.

2) those 'cyclonic' oil separators in the top of the rocker covers.... yea or nay? Can I do without them, or do they make a difference? Assume I could run without them for a couple of days if they are really necessary?

Thanks as always.

Thanks again.

I had a closer look at the assembly, and I think I've made a bit of a fuss about nothing - apologies. I did lift the injector rail off complete with the inlet manifold, so the O rings haven't been disturbed at all. In which case I can't see any need to do anything but refit the whole assembly. I should have looked more closely before posting.

On the chassis numbers that means my car is a year 2000 registration, but a 2001 model year. I'll bear that in mind for the future - it hadn't occurred to me before, but I think that's still common enough isn't it - bringing in the 'model year' towards the latter half of the calendar year to boost sales.

Thanks Richard - my edit crossed with your post.

I did just that - lifted the rail off complete, and carefully. I have to say I haven't had a close look at the O rings since, I just thought it would be essential to replace them.

Are you saying that, if on inspection they are in good nick, that you've left them in place?

There are two places I could phone on the off chance they have some in stock, but if not that then I'd probably lose two days waiting for them to arrive. If just lubing the existing O rings and putting the rail carefulky back in place, then that could be handy.

Thank you.

Yes, I saw that number too, but it was listed for chassis numbers up to WA. Mine is a 1A...... Which I thought from looking at some chassis number interpretation stuff was later than WA......? Maybe I've just made a simple mistake somewhere.

x16 presumably if the injectors have been removed from the rail...?

EDIT - RTC5679 seems to be listed for the 3.9 engines?? I can't imagine they would be different for the 4.0 though?

Hi guys,
Not posted for a wee while, so the car has sat with the top end rebuild a little 'stalled'.

A few days off and hoping to progress but parts might be the issue.

Looking at the injector rail diagram on New LrCat shows the older rail - so I'm hoping the parts numbers are OK. Is ERR7309 still the correct number for the small/lower O rings?

Do I need to replace the centre ones? EAC2414L? Do I need to replace the 'top' ones? I haven't removed the injectors, just the rail itself.

And, again the LrCat diagram doesn't show the correct fuel supply pipe. Mine's a 4.0 Thor/Bosch with the supply pipe coming in at the centre of the valley with a square sort of 'spring' clip. I assume there's an O ring in here too. Will that need changed? - and if so what's the part number?

I think I missed the lower injector O rings when I was compiling my parts list for this job, so that could unfortunately cost me a couple of days. I'd be surprised if I could find fhem locally.

Thanks for any replies.

Thanks for the further replies folks.

I can confirm that it is in fact 5/16. I found my thread gauge yesterday and couldn't get any of the similar metric ones to work, so I was more or less convinced, but the 5/16 nuts and threaded rod I'd ordered arrived today, and that's the right thing for my car.

Work can recommence.

Hmmm. Thanks Richard. That would be dissapointing on the basis that I've just ordered some 5/16 threaded bar!

If it's M8, it isn't the most common thread - quite coarse, which I assume is because it's going into Alu.

Because my working diary is stuffed I'd hoped to avoid a specific trip to our local fasteners supplier, but I guess I'll have to.

I noticed though that the bolts which hold the front cover on have 11mm heads (or are in fact an imperial size which closely equates to 11mm) so I wonder if the change to metric was a bit piecemeal??

Hi guys,

I've got to the stage of putting my sump back on (4.0V8, Thor).

Of the three studs that are supposed to be in the front cover only one stayed in place on removal.The other two came out with the nuts, as they've rusted together.

I 'could' just screw the studs/nut combo back in..... but would rather get new studs. However the LRCat diagram doesn't show the studs on the sump page, or on the front cover page....

I think the nut is NH505041L (5/16 thread) but can't find the studs,

Any idea what the part number might be please?

I suppose I could hacksaw carefully through the two stuck nuts, and tidy up the thread below, but it's a lot of work for two studs.

Thanks

Edit - is it 252513..?

Thanks Richard - I think it was the very minimum they took off. 3 thousandths... I'm largely metric, so 0.0762mm doesn't sound like much!

I hadn't thought of running in oil, given that it's 'just' the cam, tappets and pushrods that have been changed. Presumably with its high Zinc content there's little chance of it causing any damage to the rest of the engine, that's already well run-in? Just run it sensibly for 500 miles then drop it out?

At the risk of stirring up all the worms in the tin, the link above also 'highly recommends' an engine flush. I'd gathered the impression that these potions were just snake oil? Though I have to say, when I drained and removed the sump there was a lot more 'sludge' than I'd expected. In my ownership my diesel LR Defender has had very regular oil changes. Sump was very clean, as was the underside of the pistons last time I looked. Would the sludge in the RR sump indicate anything? Service book suggests regular changes, but low miles in between.

Finally - though I've been here a bit now, still ready with the numpty questions..... the heads came back from the machine shop with the rocker shafts fitted. I'm assuming I need to remove them again in order to fit the heads? (Can't see any other way I'll get the pushrods in?). Guy also said I'd need to adjust the tappets - but as they're hydraulic, that won't be an issue.. unless I've missed something?

Fingers crossed I'll be at this at the weekend.

I 'read somewhere' ( i.e. the internet, so caution required ) that leather seats these days are covered with what's effectively a plastic laquer. Therefore you're not cleaning leather as such, but a flexible plastic coating. This guy therefore recommended a generic fabric/surface cleaner.

Of course maybe his intention was to create mayhem and drive stunned DIY cleaners to his business....

I won't be trying this at home in the near future - just wondering what the collective view might be. I'm thinking saddle soap, then a colourer treatment to restore any faded patches, followed by a conditioner/sealer.

Thanks both,
Yep, I understand the reason behind the revs. The instructions specifically say it's to achieve good oil pressure and good. lubrication. It's just a worry when there will be so many new gaskets, remade joints and disturbed systems. Not to mention gassing myself in the garage! Reckon I'll choose a good day and get it out into the open asap!

That's a clear enough procedure for the coolant fill. I think I'll print that off and keep it to hand when I get to that stage.

Your accident is a lot more dramatic than my issue, Richard. I just got a stress fracture in my foot through exercise, which has brought on my second ever inflammatory arthritis attack (aka gout). The pain is 'considerable'.... I can't afford to take a month away from life's commitments completely at random, so I reckon I'll be on the pills from now on. I can't even bend my foot to pick something off the floor, far less clamber up and down from underneath the car. Oh for a 4 post ramp and the garage to go with it.

Glad you got through your accident 'relatively' unscathed. Bad enough as it is, sounds like it could have been a lot worse.

^^ Thanks guys. I'm using the studs. I'd never heard of them till mentioned on here but it seems to win both ways - a more predictable torque application across the head ( not subject to the vagaries of different bolts stretching more or less than others) and just plain easier to fit.

Been away, and trying to work around a little injury which affects mobility, so there's not a great deal to report but yesterday I cleaned off the block faces (p800 wet 'n dry) for the head and front cover gaskets, as well as the gasket faces on the inlet manifold. Happy with all of that. Expecting to get the heads back next week. Might go out and clean up / prep the sump today and clean out all the bolts that I'll be re-using. Exciting, eh!

Couple of quick questions though - camshaft timing and running in related.

The new cam has some complicated instructions relating to timing - using dials etc etc. A lot more complicated than what Richard has said above about lining the timing gears up and slotting them on. ( Not doubting it! - just checking my understanding). As far as I can see, once the chain gear is one the cam, there isn't really any further adjustment possible - it's a tight enough fit - maybe half a degree either way.

Do I really just ditch those instructions on the basis that they are for other engines where such adjustments of angle are needed?

Secondly - it says it's really important to run the engine at ca. 2500 revs for the first 20 mins or so. That's really counterintuitive ( and frankly scary ) after such a big rebuild. I haven't looked at all yet into filling/priming the cooling system, or the oil pump, but the idea of just turning the key and revving up straight away worries me a bit. I'd hope not, but there could be all sorts of leaks or issues, or at very least it makes sense to anticipate them. Hard to do when you're sitting in the driver's seat with your foot on the pedal!

I will be using an assembly grease on anything that looks like it might benefit from it - cam, followers, pushrods, rocker pads, timing chain etc.

Any thoughts or experience on this?

Thanks