Aaand - on to the rear suspension:

Took the rear suspension out today - air springs and shocks. I'd been putting off the shocks as the head of the bolts, visible between chassis rail and wing liner looked really nasty and I was expecting blood, sweat and tears. In the end, only sweat, and not too much of that either - they came out pretty easily once I'd cleaned up the ends of the bolts; hammered on an impact socket; and taken my long breaker bar to it. Result!

The shocks themselves were pretty crusty, but surprisingly still had a bit of life to them.

Air springs, more or less the same - no great drama. The O/S one had clearly been done before, but not the N/S - different date stamps, and it's just obvious from the condition. This is interesting though, as it's the O/S which seems to leak and drop faster.

Then, as in the post above I took a closer look at the O/S height sensor, and wondered if this could be the problem? Nanocom isn't giving any error codes on EAS - but I'm not familiar enough with the system yet to know what the height readings should be.

I'd have stuck it all back together, but I didn’t have any new bolts and was also missing a couple of the fixings to get the wing liners back in. If I’m going to get ‘new’ EAS sensors then I’m as well not to bother anyway.

After my experience with the front of the car, where I think the suspension bushes were actually all pretty decent (though I changed them anyway) I was planning to leave well alone at the back. However while I was in the vicinity I noticed this, at the front of the O/S radius arm. This doesn’t look too clever to me – or am I simply thinking the worst?

I was keen to fix shocks and springs because a) the car was dropping to one side over a couple of days but b) because if I was ‘pressing on’ a bit, the rear end would wobble pretty alarmingly round corners – I’m imagining that a knackered radius arm bush, combined with a dodgy EAS sensor could combine to make things unpleasant?

Finally for now I’ve been wondering about my EAS valve block rebuild and whether I maybe did a ‘boo boo’ with the little O rings in the solenoids. I put them in with a smidge of Vaseline, but I’m wondering if perhaps that’s making them a little sticky, and not working properly?

But this is where I left it yesterday

Would particularly welcome any thoughts on the state of that radius arm bush; the state of that sensor, and whether or not I should have fitted the solenoid O rings 'dry'?

Cheers

Jeez! Been meaning to post since yesterday afternoon, but imgur's been painful!

Anyway - here we go again. First thing is literally about 'ups and downs'. I rebuilt the valve block a wee while ago, but because of the porous windscreen the car hasn't shifted at all. I took it out of the garage a few days ago and it's just up and down like a yo yo.

From this - rear of car as high as possible, front right down

To this - right down on all four corners - in a matter of seconds, then it did the whole routine again.

All the while the compressor is running away. So I've not been letting it run too long, to avoid heat issues.

Then while working on the rear suspension yesterday, I noticed this. Doesn't look too clever:

I've been assuming a leaky corner - rear O/S - but I'm wondering if it's actually a sensor fault? I can read them on Nanocom, but I don't know enough about the system yet to make much sense of the numbers.

Somehow though, I sense I have some "new" rear sensors in my future, and some fun making a set of calibration blocks.

Thanks Gilbert - that makes sense. I have new clips to hand for when I get to that stage so hopefully they'll be robust enough to do the job properly.

Gilbertd wrote:

Today I refitted my windscreen top trim. When I had the screen replaced a few weeks ago, I checked RAVE to see how to remove it. The instructions say to slide a credit card between the trim and the roof and push the clips towards the left side of the car. Yeah right Mr Land Rover, not when they've been there for over 20 years. I suspect using a metal paint scraper and a hammer you might be able to move them but I failed with a plastic card

Except that at speeds over 75 mph, there was this pretty horrendous wind noise from the top of the windscreen. Decided to get some new clips and do it again.

I must have been lucky getting my clips to shift, but I think I used a plastic trim removal tool and a gentle 'tap' with a hammer. Like you though, of the 8 that came out about three or four remained intact, but even they are really fragile.

But what I wanted to ask about was the 'noise above 75mph'. It looks to me as if my trim piece had some sort of adhesive strip/thin foam on the leading edge - but I can't see how that works when the trim needs to be slid into place? Anything sticky would surely bind to the glass and make sliding the trim over a lot more awkward?

Am I over-thinking this, and have you got a silent fitment without the sticky strip?

When I got mine, cruise control wasn't working and assuming the worst, I was putting it to the back of the queue.

Then with the bonnet open for something else, I realised that the short lengths of pipe at the Tee were split. I got some new pipe delivered and for me it was literally a 60 second job to cut two lengths and plug them in. Cruise now works perfectly. Being a mechanical system I find it's not quite as precise as the more modern ones I'm familiar with, but still a lot easier on the 'cruise'.

Interesting discussion above though - regarding toys working/not working, or "the devil you know". I can relate to most of that. Work on my car has stalled because of "work" (paid employment!) and the return of colder weather; and I still can't find anyone really keen to remove and rebond the windscreen. It looks like our roads will be chokka this year with folk looking to 'holiday in the Highlands' so at least I'll have something to occupy my time when the sun returns.

karlos01 wrote:

thats the only thing is the fuel consumption with out the kit on it would be about 18mpg on a good run

I bought mine in Newcastle, and drove up to the nth of Scotland the same afternoon - about 280 'motorway miles'. According to the car's computer I was averaging about 25mpg. That's a 4.0L V8 with no LPG fitted.

Absolutely - looks really good. Well done. I shall show this to my assistant and try to convince her that now is the time!

Pierre3 wrote:

On the issue of the sunroof glass; It was working OK before I took out the glass panel. I didn't do any disconnections of the drive cables, I didn't do anything to the motor. I took the glass out by undoing the four screws that hold the glass in, took out the glass, resealed the seal and refitted the glass.

I thought that I had located the glass in about the correct position in the sunroof opening and tightened everything up. When I pressed the switch the glass rose up to the first position, but then just stopped and wouldn't reverse.

First thing - does the sunroof motor lock with the T-key ? I thought that I saw something somewhere that said if you use te T-key you have to use it to "relock" the motor.

Where does the BeCM get its' open/close position message from ? Is it from the motor or is there a switch of some sort in the glass track ?

Pierre3.

Apologies to the 'pub' for continually referring to my Defender work, but I haven't tackled the P38 lining yet. When I did the Defender, there was a similar sticky foam residue left on the boards - quite a lot actually. I found that a stiff brush and dustpan was the best for that - of course the P38 could be different. Though to be honest, it looks like your stuff has come off pretty cleanly. I'd want to get rid of any loose foam, but I don't think I'd be too concerned about the stickiness - you'll be spraying adhesive onto it anyway. I suppose it's possible that two different types of adhesive might not react well.... but

On the sunroof question, there is a section in the Worskshop manual about refitting and 'adjusting' the glass. Something like making sure that it's not more than 0.5mm below the roof level. Only then do you tighten the four bolts.

Then, as David says above, there's a bit in the car's handbook about turning the manual key back a quarter of a turn to 're-engage' the motor. I haven't got this far yet tbh, but David has said there's a 'feel' when it's right.

I think the setting comes from being able to run the window all the way up then all the way down and open, and then back to closed. Of course if it's not responding to the switch, you won't be able to do that yet.

You've done well with the seatbelt caps! I cracked two of mine, and when I mentioned this on here Leolito said they almost always go.

I'll be looking forward to pics! I did this with a Defender headlining about a year ago. On the plus side, that's in 3 parts, on the downside it has a more awkward curve to the sides, and round the roof windows. The P38 is just 'big' - but seems to me to have fewer awkward shapes.

I sympathise with your 'willing assistant' comments! :-) My wife and son helped with the Defender roof, now he's away and it would be just the two of us. She decided that 'we' wouldn't be doing the P38 lining for the time being...!

So - be sure and post your successful pictures here!

^^ I've been told - though I've never seen them, or looked into it, so this could be a pile of pants - that there is a difference between a thread tap, and a thread 'cleaner' or chaser.....? As I understand it, a tap is sized to cut, and the chaser simply to clean.

I know I have often taken the 'old' stud, or bolt or whatever; stuck it into the vice; and cut a couple of angled slots into the thread with a hacksaw. I'll then run that up/down a male thread, or in/out a female one to clean it up.

Don't know if that would work here?

Thanks guys. Like I said, no ARP stock of this kit in the UK. The guys I spoke to reckon they would be supplied by surface mail and take 5/6 weeks. However, the summit racing site linked by JLImmelman suggests they can get them to the UK for £190 (cost) + £50 shipping.. I'll ping them an email and see what shipping method and timescale that equates to - and I totally agree - I only want to do this once.

So I'll obviously do an oil and belts/plugs service while I'm doing this. Is there anything else that makes sense? I've seen some mention of doing the coils, but also a comment that the Bosch originals may be better than any modern replacements. Will I need to prepare for coolant hoses? Anything else?

(Bear in mind that my most recent experience - for the last 20 years - has been with a diesel 300Tdi)

Ta

FWIW when I did my Defender roof, the fabric supplier were keen on a particular brand which I couldn't get. I went to a local industrial supplier and found something suitable there. I think, as long as it's a High Temperature spray adhesive it will be fine. I think mine was by Everbuild, or something like that.

If it helps I can take some pics and post them later. I have similar shipping issues to deal with being based in the 'Highlands' - which according to any first year Geography student is on the UK mainland; but which according to any basic courier company is 'offshore' somewhere, across a mythical and distant sea. A right PITA.

Another place to add to the ever-expanding list, thanks.

Pierre3 wrote:

Hi, I was thinking about taking down the roof panel today, to retrim the headlining.

I know that people have said to remove the A-pillar trim and the D-pillar trim [which I assume is the pillar beside the back doors, but do I need to remove the rear trim panels beside the upper rear glass door ?

If this is the case does that mean stripping out the boot panels that run under the rear side windows, behind the rear seats ? I have had these trim panel out before, when looking to sort out the usual rear door water leak into the spare wheel well.

It does look like there is quite a bit more disassembling than I expected.

If I am correct, having had a good look in the car I need to do the following:
[1] remove all the grab handles and surrounds [already done];
[2] remove all the reading lights [already done];
[3] remove the front courtesy light fitting [already done];
[4] remove the sunvisors [already done];
[5] remove the alarm sensor; Yes - needs done
[6] remove the A-pillar trims; Yes - needs done
[7] remove the D-pillar trims; Yes - needs done ( I think the two fir-trees you're mentioning below are there)
[8] remove the rear glass door side trims; not sure what you're describing here, but probably a 'yes'
[9] drop down the front door seals; Yes - needs done
[10 drop down the rear door seals; yes - needs done
[11] drop down the rear glass dor seal - yes, needs done

There's an extra one in here - remove the 'finishing strip' from the roof panel around the sunroof. If you leave this and the two fir trees until last, it should stay up there until the last moment when you're ready for it. Edited to say that you need to take the trim off the B and C pillars too.

[12] take out the roof panel.

I saw that it was mentioned at one point to remove 2x fir tree fasteners at the back of the roof panel but I don't have any fastenings in my headlining, unless they are under the headlining material. In which case, I don't see how I could possible put the back after the panel has been re-upholstered as any holes would be covered over. (( The panel itself will have a hole in it - just put a new hole through the new lining ))

Maybe someone could perhaps just tick off the items above to ensure that I have everything listed before I start, and before I find that there is something odd that I have missed, and will prevent me from removing the panel.

Pierre3.

THis is what you want to be left with... the roof lining is down in this pic, but still in the car.

Thanks very much - that's a fabulous set of photos. You can be sure I'll have a good look through them. (Edited to say I have had a good look through them, and will likely do so again as I make my way through the job - appreciate that share.)

Turners are supplying a set of Elring gaskets, and they also highlighted that the kit didn't contain ERR6621, so I had a chance to add that to the order. They rebuilt my 300Tdi engine, so I have good experiences there.

ARP studs - hmm. OK. I'll maybe need to rethink that one. In that "time vs cost vs peace of mind vs having to take it apart again" equation, the price difference isn't too bad.

Thanks Gd,
I've got the valley gasket 'kit' on the way from Turner engineering, along with their head bolts. I had a look at the ARP ones, and called them, but no UK stock currently so they'd need to come from the States. £227 before we'd started considering any add-ons. Hopefully Turners will be OK with the ones they supply.

Back onto the topic of my EAS - I've been searching without success for another post of yours where (I think) you recommended a specific manufacturer/supplier of 6mm push-fit air fittings. I'm going to try a new collet and O rings for the leaky reservoir pipe on the valve block, and maybe a new length of pipe. There's lots readily available but I seem to remember there was a question of quality and reliability? (Edited to say that I found the post I was looking for - RS Components - had to dig back to 2019!)

Hear hear! Very glad I found my way here, and for the welcome I got when I arrived.

JLImmelman wrote:

We took Rachel for a nice Sunday afternoon drive over a local gravel pass. Total distance covered was around 250km with around 50km being gravel road.
Fun outing!

Hi JL - I'm only slightly jealous - that looks fabulous. What part of the world are you in?

Martyuk wrote:

donmacn wrote:

Dropped another 4.5L of ATF out of my gearbox after letting it sit for another week... think that's about 9L that's come out now. I think I'll need to go any buy another 5L of ATF before I fill it tomorrow.

Meanwhile, in another part of the car.... I think I saw a post recently about the availability of Marty/Sloth's RF key fob filters, but they're showing as 'out of stock' on the website. Can anyone remember that post, or know what the latest is? I have the trim panel off, so I thought I might as well 'future proof' the car and fit one.

We are currently out of stock on them. I am out of the country still with work, and I think Nick is hoping to try and get some filters made in the near future, but we have been waiting on boards and components and he also works full-time, so it's a bit of a juggling act.

We will definitely make more of them, but can't commit to a timeframe at the moment, sorry!

Hi Marty - thanks for picking up on that. No worries - the rest of life is more important! I'll put it back the way it is and wait for them to become available. It's not hard to get to anyway.

Thanks very much for the replies guys - consensus emerging here?

Mine is a Thor engine - not many pics of that really as it has only done 78125mls, and I've been focussing more on transmission, suspension, and keeping the water out! (when it's on the road) it wobbles like a jelly at the back. Shockers probably doing nothing, and the driver's rear airspring is leaking so those are the parts coming in the mail this week. Discovering a coolant leak, and realising I should consider the head gaskets is a real bonus...!?

I had thought I would get the transmission/suspension stuff sorted, then take lots of pics of the engine and see what folk thought I should tackle next but that plan seems to have been radically transformed!

I now remember that I have done a cylinder head before - with a mate's help, putting a 'stage 3 racing head' and 'fast road' camshaft onto an A series mini engine - but that was waaaay back in 1991 and these days I can barely remember what I did last week! Still, I now have a better garage; more experience; better tools; a workshop manual ... and the internet. What could possibly go wrong!

Which leads me on to ask: I can buy a decent gasket set - Turner Engineering, Island4x4, LR direct - whoever seems to have the best balance of quality and price at the time. But - if you guys were doing this again, with your experiences, what other stuff might you do as you go along, or which parts would you organise in advance, knowing that they were either likely to be needed, or sensible to do at that time?

Genuinely appreciate the help. It adds so much depth and support to what's written in the pages of the WSM.