It’s a bit involved but just go methodically. Hardest part is not breaking clips on windscreen panel and at the end the heavy part of removing it! 2 strong people required. I think you have to degas the A/C too… might be wrong…
O2 sensors maybe?
Looking for a bit of a pointer in the right direction please….
My 2000 Thor has started running very poor on petrol particularly when cold but also when hot too. It can be almost cutting out when cold and no response to throttle now and then, I think I can hear popping fro exhaust when it’s playing up too.
When hot it’s sounding like it’s misfiring but nanocom says not, it’s running “lumpy”. The car shakes gently.
It runs perfectly on LPG. It also runs perfectly when I reset engine adaptations.
I get p0172 bank 1 mixture adaptation factor few signal too low and p0175 bank 2 as well.
Clearing makes no difference.
Today though resetting adaptations has made no difference….
I’ve changed the MAF for a new genuine Bosch one. Initially I thought it fixed it as it was ok for a while.
I also put a bottle of injector cleaner thru.
It has 2 new coil packs, new leads, new plugs, fresh oil, new air filter,
Where shall I look next? I have nanocom but don’t really understand the numbers!
I will order one then as the two I have at 130k and 100k mileage so bound to be worn out.
Gilbertd wrote:
Engine Tuning Data
Air Mass flow at sea level - Engine fully warm, in neutral gear, all loads off
At idle....................................... 20 kg/hr +- 3 kg/hr
At 2,500 rpm............................. 61 kg/hr +- 3 kg/hr
Thanks Richard. Will get it warm in the morning and double check this.
Thanks, anything will help. I don’t know where to start looking in Rave!
Mine is a genuine one if that makes a difference
My MAF was diagnosed as faulty during an LPG tune up… it read 20 and didn’t change.
I have another MAF from my breaker which reads various figures on Nanocom, however my question is what ought it be reading? I want to know if this one is good or bad before laying out on a brand new one.
Vehicle currently pretty lumpy idle on petrol hot or cold which LPG guy said could be dirty injectors.
Thanks
Welcome. I have a 4.6 on lpg as a daily driver and fixing/living with it's "special features"!
I found the little wing bolt that attaches the guard to the bracket to be too feeble. It constantly came undone, so I ended up screwing a self tapper into the bracket instead.
That sounds logical. I’ll remove the HU completely for a couple of days and see what happens
The amp is on the shelf in my garage, I completely removed it and hard wired the speakers to the stereo. My doors don’t have amps, it was just the one in the boot.
I did fit (I think on your recommendation) some crossovers so the sound wasn’t so muddy. Maybe they are failing?
The amp is bypassed entirely.
The noise persists and have noticed it happens when the radio is powered off too. It’s not when engine is first started but after about 5-10 mins. Only while driving and definitely linked to engine speed (I can play a tune!)
Good advice, thanks
Thanks both, i've looked on ebay etc but worried about buying total cr*p which I tend to end up with from there!
I'll check out turbozentrum.
Trying to do at least as good if not better job than OEM.
Guys, does anyone have a good resource (online/home delivery) of engine bay pipes/hoses? I'm talking vacuum hose and coolant hoses (for the non oem routes), and now probably e10 compatible rubber fuel hose.
This is for my RRC which will (eventually) be Thor 4.6 powered.
Thanks all. How about big stuff like engine block, axles, diffs etc?
I've got a serious amount of cleaning to do on my restomod project (RRC). All sorts of parts from engine parts to structural stuff. What do you folks use to clean parts effectively? I've considered a parts washer but cant justify the cost (presuming the cheap Clarke ones are rubbish of course).
And, no, the wife wont permit me using the Dishwasher...
Brake line flexis and abs sensors, steering wheel linkage (it’s kinda quick release), prop shaft U bracket, 10 x mounting bolts, any 3rd party cable ties etc that shouldn’t be there, suspension pipes at valve block end, wiring plugs, gear selector linkage and hand brake linkage unless you are dropping the entire assembly with the box (I did), fuel line engine end, I think I did wheel arch liners too. Probably a few other small connectors but quite easy once you get under. The part I forgot was the prop shaft bracket which bore the weight of the whole chassis when I lifted it!!!
Thanks Richard
Gilbertd wrote:
Standard fit radio or aftermarket? Probably an earthing problem though in either case.
After market now, where to start for an earth though…. There’s loads of earthing points!