hoping the obd port is something simple. i'd already been repaired in the drivers footwell and close to the port itself!

and now the top tailgate isnt latching every time!!

lol, gotta laugh!

new problem - obd port is dead.... again...

I've been trying to diagnose a problem i have when starting from cold and having little/no throttle response and rough running for a while now. It tends to clear itself after a minute or two.

On Sunday I took part in an off-road competition and during the day got the same symptoms when starting hot. I was on Petrol. As soon as I switched to LPG, the issue went away. Turn off LPG and it's back.

Immediate thought is an injector issue. Is this something I can diagnose/rule out with nanocom?

TIA

I think the p38 is more comfortable. I’ve had a 2010 L322 Autobiography and used to get butt ache after a long journey (700 miles tho lol)

Have you got an old bath or something? I can never find a ‘sink’ big enough , lol

brill, thanks Richard. Got a roll of Kunifer! Will try to measure the unions to see if i can figure it out size wise. Will attempt to take everyting off in it's original shape so i can copy it as closely as I can.

Amazing job, well done.

How did you get all the grime off the plastic parts, like wheel arches and engine bay plastics, to such a degree that they look new? Or are they all new?

Sorry guys, a none-P38 question, hope thats ok?

Some of you may remember I'm refurbing a soft dash. It's a corroded mess! Needs a lot of structural welding on the body, but that's all doable with the right person. My bit is the mechanics and drivetrain, including making it stop. The brake lines are original and a bit crusty (to say the least!!!). I've attempted to remove a section and it fell apart. So planning to replace the lot. Any recommendations where to source all the fittings & pipework from? Genuine parts are horrifically expensive!

Thanks

will try the LPG last 1/2 mile test.

Your latest message sounds like mine. Will try turn off and on again.

Where's the purge valve?

@Richard, not recently. i did after the overhaul. I'll give it a go and see what happens when I have chance to do a run for it to learn again.

Recently my engine has started to be unresponsive when driving away (from cold).

It's only from dead cold (e.g. first drive of the day).

It's almost like the throttle is disconnected and I just get pulled along on the cold start RPM to about 10mph.

After a couple of hundred yards, it goes back to normal. I recall it happening last year in the cold weather briefly too.

If i start it up from cold and don't do anything, it'll run for a minute or so, then hunt a bit, maybe another minute, then run normally.

I can't see it being mechanical, I did a pretty comprehensive overhaul during lockdown 1, including new cam, lifters etc. There's no fuel/oil/water cross contamination.
During the overhaul, I cleaned the idle air controller, intakes, etc etc. Maf is OK. Coils, plugs and leads all new.

This is running on petrol, not LPG (takes about 5 mins to get warm enough for the LPG to switch over).

Nanocom shows P0172, P0175, P0134 but has done since I owned the car, which i put down to the LPG conversion upsetting the numbers...

Any ideas?

Cheers

Harv, are you running standard size?

I’m getting ready to buy some new tyres. On 18” comets. I want A/T as I am fed up of changing between my M/T and road tyres when I go greenlaning or see a snowflake in the sky.

My go-to has always been BF Goodrich KO2. Anyone tried them on a P38? How’s it handle? Should I stick with factory size or go up a little?
Alternatively, is there another tyre I should consider?

Cheers

Thanks, I'll have a look later when I have thawed out a bit!

Well this seemed to work fine! I used the existing sensor bracket and drilled out the alloy pad that touches the pipe, replacing directly with the thermistor. Then 2 x 1.5mm holes through to the collector pins and poked the thermistor legs through. Heated the pins with soldering iron and touched a bit of solder on the legs to join them together.

Nanocom shows a reading now and no faults. Happy with that!

I've got classic signs of a blend motor not working (not getting max heat from vents). Would the HVAC display show any errors or DTCs on Nanocom for this? I dont want to rip the dash out if it's not this.

PS, ever worked on an Audi? The blend motors are all nicely colour coded and easily accessible!!!

i'm up for a bit of diy... will have a look.

thanks

Hi Guys, looks like i need to replace my temp sensor. Whats the latest on getting this part? I can't seem to find it anywhere?

Cheers

How long did it take start to finish please?

Ah, makes sense that it uses the ground resistance. Will pluck up the enthusiasm at some point to have a go.....

Thank you for your advice as always...