Orangebean wrote:

IIRC there's a dialogue box that comes up to confirm recording stopped as well.

Yep I think I remember seeing that.

In case anyone cares the britpart height sensors appear to be branded Dunlop which is a good I guess.

Thanks. Your pictures loaded instantly for me.

When I was recording the CSV file, the entire screen showed a progress bar and a stop recording button so I made sure to click that and give it a few seconds before unplugging the nanocom.

Rear height sensors have arrived. I've also bought a compressor refurb kit. I did it maybe two years ago now so I figured it couldn't hurt to do it again.

I recorded it to the SD card. I think you can record any of the screens with the little save symbol.

As Orangebean said BBS has a tool to view the data or you can just import it to excel. For some reason it's seperated by semi colons but you can still import to excel by opening a blank document. Then in the data menu there is an import from text wizard that will allow you to choose the delimiter.

Captured some data today with the Nanocom on my drive to work.

First thing I noticed is that in my 25 mile drive the compressor ran for 87% of the time which is obviously bad. The valve block was refurbed recently. On the motorway section the ride heights were fairly constant but before and after they look a bit erractic. I can possibly explain the start ones due to going over speed bumps but theres nothing at the end that is that rough.

Another graph showing the difference of each valve from it's target height.

I've bought a new pair of height sensors for the rear.

Took another look at the heights once I'd pulled into the driveway today since it was feeling high since I'd pulled into the street. The heights shown are pretty much high profile even though only the standard light was illuminated. I might try logging the heights with the nanocom on my way to work tomorrow.

The front two sensors are fairly new too - around 2 months old. They were britpart though... The rear sensors are probably original.

I should probably say that there's nothing particularly wrong with my system. It works fine and never gives any faults. I do have two issues though. The first is that if I leave the car for a short amount of time and get back in when the car is restarted the air suspension will sometimes be down at access height and sometimes up at high ride height. I kind of assumed this would be due to dodgy height sensors. The car isn't dropping overnight so it's not a leak.

The second issue is the ride is fairly rough. Shocks are new boges but the ride is still terrible on anything but really smooth roads. RAVE says bad calibration can cause this so I further suspected the height sensors.

I had another look at the values tonight, car was level and the values didn't seem to change much in the minute I spent looking at it. Looks better than last night but the rear right is fairly far out.

How close should the live heights be in relation to the target heights? I was looking at the EAS heights last night and two of my sensors were about 3 points from the target height and the other two were around 15 points from the target value. I calibrated the suspension with some blocks I made up a few months ago so I'm confident the stored heights are correct.

I was looking at the heights with the car stopped, doors closed and foot off the brake so I can't understand why it wouldn't be attempting to achieve the target heights? Is anyone else's like this?

Has anyone here refurbished the grey trim on the side panels that run along the transmission tunnel and up next to the HEVAC?

Mine are all scratched so I'm looking to paint them if I can figure out a suitable colour match.

That purple bit of the plug sides along which releases the connector. You pull it from the big end like shown in this picture:

I bought a couple of these spring clips to replace the jubilee clips on my LPG connections which are very slightly weeping. I haven't gotten around to doing it yet though!

According to the parts diagrams there are two different types. Part numbers are: PYC101900 and AWR2724.

I've replaced the condensed and drier without removing the bumper. I think I did the top pipe up from under the bonnet.

Looks like I'm going to be looking at it again soon as my air con has just ran out of gas this week. It lasted nearly two years so it's not that bad.

I've been running mine without any heatshields for a few years now with no problems.

On the subject of spark plugs, what gaps are people using on LPG? Some people seem to say the standard gap and some seem to say reduce by 0.2mm.

Sloth wrote:

Oddly enough I was talking to Marty about a P38 that caught fire and I had a feeling it was yours - I remember you were towing at the time. Such a shame :( That and a white one in the states going up in flames (I think around the same time?) made me a bit paranoid of my GEMS... I think I changed the two rubber fuel lines when I replaced the engine as a matter of course after that.

Did you change just the rubber bits of the pipe or the entire pipe? If you just changed the rubber bit what did you do about the crimps? I'm thinking of changing mine just to try and prevent it breaking and a fire starting.

I've got an L322 as well as the P38. I recently fixed the CD changer in it which wasn't detecting CDs. It involved taking the CD changer out and lubricating the gears inside which had seized. Will go into more detail if that's your problem.

Reading this thread made me decide to fix my noisy EAS compressor. For some reason mine was sitting on flat washers so I bought some of the dished washers and new rubber mounts for the compressor. Fitted them today and it's completely silent inside the cabin now, yay.

No I didn't fit poly bushes. I bought the Land Rover branded ones from LRDirect as I'd read about cheaper ones not being as good. When I fitted the panhard rod bushes everything did feel tighter for the first journey. The next time I got in it, it felt like it was back to normal!

Hmm, maybe you're right.

One other thing that's maybe not right is that occasionally when you hit a bump with a single wheel it seems to cause the angle of the steering to be effected. i.e. the car might be pulling to the left from the road camber, it hits a bump and now the car will want to pull to the right and need the steering correcting to the left. I'm guessing that's not normal?

Like a few people here my P38 has steering issues. The steering is vague in the centre and sometimes pulls slightly to either side depending on the camber of the road.

So far I've replaced/done:

• Steering box with a reconditioned one
• Steering shaft
• Track rod
• Drag link
• Front radius arm bushes
• Front panhard rod bushes
• Steering damper
• Ball joints
• Front wheel alignment completed

I'm not sure what else there is that could affect this. Anyone got anymore ideas what I can try?