The manual says to turn back one quarter of a turn to re-engage.

Thanks. That link is interesting. I hadn't considered that I could make the flexi's up myself. Do you need any special tools to be able be able to assemble those fittings yourself?

Yes, they were pretty rusty. The channel the pipes run in was full of mud and dust, the picture is after cleaning them out.

I'm thinking about replacing my rear brake lines. I've got an early car with the brake lines that drop down in the centre of the axle. I modified it a few years ago so that I could fit a dual exit exhaust but I've never been particularly happy with the tidiness of it. With the tank out now is the opportunity to fix it.

I'm wondering about moving to a similar setup to the 97> cars where the brake pipes run to each side. In the standard system I believe it routes something like this: hard line on body -> flexi -> chassis mounted hard line -> flexi to caliper. Is there a reason I couldn't just go from the caliper straight to the body hard line with a custom flexi (and appropriate mounts to keep it all in the right place)? The brackets for later cars are unavailable anyway so if I do it it would have to be custom brackets.

My fuel pump has given up so I'm going to be dropping the tank to replace it shortly. My car is a GEMS and there doesn't seem to be any reputable brands available. The options I can see are:

• Britpart
• Allmakes
• LAP?

All of which don't seem great. LAP is the most expensive but is entirely unknown to me. Another option I've read about on RR.net is just replacing the pump itself with an Airtex E3270 but that involves opening the sender unit and possibly some modification. I'd prefer to replace the level sender too so that's a factor against the Airtex. Has anyone purchased one recently? What did you go for?

I've read that the fuel lines could be rusty so I'd like to replace those too whilst I'm in there. Has anyone got any advice on that? Did you make your own lines or buy them?

Hi all,

I've been trying to track down a leak into the cable channel by the drivers front door (next to the BECM). After a soaking with the hose I've found that the water is getting under the door seal and then dripping off into the channel containing the cables.

The seal is in good condition, pushed fully against the metal and is mounted correctly so I'm not sure how it's managing to get past the seal. New seals seem to no longer be available. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to try next? I guess glue or sealant is an option but I'd like to be able to remove it again in the future if needed so I'm not sure what type to use.

I had a similar leak that came from the top hose. The clamp wasn't sealing perfectly so when pressurised it would drip down onto the valley gasket and flow back and leak down between the block and bell housing. I initially thought it had to be the head gaskets as I couldn't see how water would get so far back.

I understood that to mean it will only wake the BECM when the switch state changes since it says edge triggered.

Tis the season for ABS faults apparently. I have the same fault on my WABCO D type.

I measured my sensor resistances and they are pretty much the same as yours - around 0.95kOhms.

I think the Nanocom/ECU only displays the faults after they've occurred a few times. I cleared the fault with the Nanocom then cycled the ignition. Even though the dash was saying "ABS Fault" and "Traction Fault" no faults were reported by the Nanocom. After a couple of ignition cycles the fault reappeared on the Nanocom.

My next step was going to be getting another ECU. I know Marty repairs them but they are showing as out of stock so I need to contact him to see what the timescales would be like.

I think this sounds similar to mine which I also can't find the source of. See the videos on my thread. Do you think they sound similar?

I thought I would make my own thread following on from the few posts in the "exhaust manifold flexis" thread where I was trying to find the source of a metallic ticking sound in my engine.

To reiterate the problem is a ticking sound that I can hear which appears to be coming from the right side of the engine. It's related to engine load rather than RPM - for example if I'm traveling up a hill with the torque converter locked pressing the throttle more will make the ticking sound louder without the RPM changing. This is why I originally thought it was an exhaust leak.

Here's two videos:

• next to the manifold
• Underneath the car being held on the brakes

Here's the things I've tried so far:

• Listened around the manifold area using a hose - couldn't hear any leaks.
• Smoke tested the exhaust - no leaks found.
• Checked the CPS reluctor ring teeth and flex plate - nothing found.

I can't understand how it would get louder with more engine load without it being an exhaust leak.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated? It's driving me mad not being able to find it 😃

BrianH wrote:

Do you have access to a smoke tester? Something like this
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Machine-Automotive-Diagnostic-Detector-Motorcycle/dp/B074JMB6HK/

I don't have one but may be able to get access to one. After a quick search I assume you are suggesting to pressurise the exhaust with it and look for leaks? Sounds a good idea anyway.

Gilbertd wrote:

Sounds more metallic to me, not an exhaust blow. One thing that can sound almost exactly like that is a slightly bent tooth on the CPS reluctor ring just touching the CPS tip. Take the cover off the lower part of the bellhousing so you can see the ring. Check each tooth very carefully but I suspect you will see one that isn't quite parallel with the others and, most likely, with a shiny spot on it where it has been catching. I only know because I bent one of the teeth on mine slightly when undoing the flex plate to torque converter bolts and it made that very same noise when I first started it after the gearbox change.

I took the engine out around 3 years ago now so I would assume it would have clearanced itself by now? I did replace the CPS around 2 years ago but I don't recall any difference in the noise. I'll give it a check anyway. I agree that it sounds metallic though.

mad-as wrote:

if that's the case then put the hose onto the cover and you will hear it. some times they are a bit hard to pin point , you need to push the hose right onto the manifold , yes it may melt a little but you will find it.

I'll have another go when I have more time. Maybe I went wrong by not having it close enough.

mad-as wrote:

if you want to find the leak just use a piece of garden hose . one end up to your ear and just prod about with the other , tape a piece of wire to it so you can reach in behind the manifold.

I just went out to try that. I took the wheel arch liner off for better access but couldn't pinpoint anything. Whilst I was in there I checked the torque on the manifold to head bolts, all were ok. Perhaps it's not the manifold then, no idea what else it could be though.

I took a video near the manifold so you can hear what it sounds like at idle: https://youtu.be/Cpelii3yGNU

I'm pretty sure I have a leak in the right side/drivers side exhaust manifold. I can hear a ticking sound inside the car around the pedal area which gets louder with more throttle.

It's been like this ever since I've had it and has persisted even after an engine rebuild so I can only assume it's the manifold.

I haven't been able to find any cracks on the manifold on the car, after about 5 seconds it's far too hot to check. It's starting to annoy me so I may whip off the manifold and see if I can spot anything.

Sounds like a good project. I would make sure your AMFR is set to zero (which you can write directly in the settings page) before taking the MAF readings as that adjusts the air flow rate reported.

I have a Janspeed stainless cat back exhaust on my 1995 which originally came with a single pipe and I had to re-route both the brake hoses and the ABS sensor wires to be able to fit it. I did leave the ABS wires alone originally and melted them when parking at access height.

Here's a diagram - The inset picture is the routing from 97MY.

I'd be interested to see what yours is like Gilbertd, just out of curiosity.

There's a link to the guide at the bottom of one of my threads here. I did the swap to the Wabco D type modulator/ECU when my original modulator developed issues. The original modulator had the BMR kit fitted to it.

tanis8472 wrote:

Original headlights with halogen bulbs are really quite good if you have a pair with good reflectors. I've managed to find some.
Right pain finding them though.

Yeah, +1 on having good reflectors. I noticed a surprising difference after changing the headlights on my 1995 model to a facelifted pair with the black surrounds (with the same bulbs).

I went out to see where the settings for these options are, using the Nannycom, but I can't find any of these options anywhere. When I start Nanny I get a couple of headings such as Motronic, Bosch and EDC, after selecting the car - P38. After choosing EDC there are four heading - EDC [again, I think it said], Wabco C, Wabco D, and the gearbox [ I think I have the Wabco letters correct].

Sounds like you need to use the right arrow to move to the next page of ECUs where you should find more options.

There's an Nanocom emulator on the website so you can look around and explore the various ECU options. https://emulator.nanocom-diagnostics.com/

I noticed today that my gearbox oil cooler pipe has been rubbing on the crank pulley and is about to be worn through. I recently replaced this pipe as it was leaking. When I replaced both pipes I also fitted the clamp that holds the metal section of the line under the engine mount as it was missing. I didn't have any problems with it rubbing previously but I was running without the clamp supporting the pipes for a long time.

I don't see any clips on the bottom of the fan shroud to hold the pipe so I'm wondering if I've routed it wrong.

Here are some images (ignore the coolant, oil and serpentine belt slightly misaligned - i've been changing some hoses when I noticed it). It's not as close as it looks in the pictures but obviously close enough to get pushed into the pulley sometimes.

Does anyone know if the surrounds for the window switchpacks different sizes depending on VIN/age? I've fitted a new centre console which is a newer leather one and now my window switchpack doesn't fit as it is slightly wider than the gap.

Looking at the parts catalogue I see:
AWR1081 - ASH GREY (MOULDING-CENTRE CONSOLE SWITCH PACK ASH GREY) [ - (V)WA410481 ]
FWJ100020LNF - ASH GREY (MOULDING-CENTRE CONSOLE SWITCH PACK ASH GREY) [ (V)XA410482 - ]

so there must be some kind of difference? There's no difference in part numbers for the actual switch electronics, just the surround that covers it.

I'm not sure how to actually identify the different variants so I can pick up the correct one from a breaker on eBay. They all seem to be listed as being compatible as 94-02.