My audi heater core isn't getting hot at idle. After leaving the engine to idle for 15 minutes the heater core temperature sensor was only reading 25 degrees. I've got the feed from the engine going through the LPG vapouriser into the core and back out. Unfortunately it was so long ago that I can't remember whether the top or bottom pipe is the feed or return.

A few questions. Does it make a difference which side is the feed and which is return? Which is best?

Do you have the temperature sensor attached to the rubber pipe or somewhere else?

In addition I've got a leak from the pipe connections to the core. I have to keep going in and nipping the jubilee clips up every few months. What style of clips have you guys used? Whilst I'm on changing the clips I'm also wondering if it's worth replumbing it so the vapouriser is fed from the return rather than the feed?

Thanks

I commanded it to run continuously from the BECM and gave it a helping hand and it started moving again. I've also given it a spray but not sure if it made much difference since it looks sealed. Finally I cleaned the connection just in case there was some corrosion there.

Once it was running the drivers side was parking correctly but the passenger side was parking in the middle of the light, so I took off the arm an re-aligned it. Makes sense since there's only one park switch in the drivers side I believe.

My left hand side headlight wiper has stopped half way through its travel and doesn't move anymore. Drivers side still works fine.

Has anyone seen similar and fixed theirs?

I bought some ARP studs from Real Steel around a month ago for £140.33 including the lube, so slightly cheaper than Rimmers.

I've just replaced my ABS modulator after fitting Russell's BMR kit. Now I'm having difficulty bleeding the system.

After following the bleeding procedure the ABS pump now just runs continuously and never stops, the pedal also goes all the way to the floor and barely stops the car. The reservior level doesn't seem to go down at all when the pump is running.

I'll try the bleed procerure again in the morning but is there anything obvious I'm missing?

Thanks.

Mine had a dunlop marking on the body just below where the arm enters. I recall seeing somewhere (maybe on the island site) that it comes in a britpart box but I can't seem to find it anymore.

I ordered one and it came in a britpart box but had a dunlop marking on it.

I was reading this post about aligning the steering box and I have a couple of questions.

With the steering wheel centred my car drives straight but the steering box alignment is slightly out (It does seem to feel like you have to turn it more in one direction than the other for the same amount of movement). If I'm understanding that post correctly to fix this I need to first disconnect the steering UJ from the box and align the wheel so that the wheel and box are centred, then adjust the drag link so the car drives straight with the wheel and box still centred. Is that correct?

As Marty said I had a working prototype last year that would filter the incoming data then only transmit to the BECM if it passed some checks.

I had it running in my car for a while then I moved house and forgot about it.

Any suggestions where to get quality stuff from? I bought some 8mm from Pirtek (it's right next door to where I work and needed it quickly) and it's already showing signs of cracking.

Really sad news. RIP OB.

I've just had a problem with the car leaning to one side. Upon looking at the heights on the nanocom the rear sensors were showing much different counts than they should be compared to the stored counts.

I put the standard height calibration blocks in and the rear sensors were showing over 130 counts at standard height which is outside the range the EAS allows.

I took off the harness from the STC3593AA kit shown above and one of the pins to the height sensor was wet and corroded. It looks like water has been getting into the connector or tracking down from the top connector and going onto that pin. After cleaning the pins/connectors off both sides are now back to their expected values and the car sits level again.

Has anyone else seen anything like this?

So I was stuck in stationary traffic today with a friend in the car. I was talking about the air suspension and pressed the up button for it to lift. Instead of lifting the lights just sat there flashing with no movement at all.

A few moments later I noticed a burning plastic smell which was really strong and was causing my eyes to water. I thought maybe something to do with the air suspension had burned out or something was touching the engine/exhaust. After about 5 or 10 minutes the smell went away and an ABS fault message popped up.

I plugged the Nanocom in which reported "Brake switch failure". I took the brake light switch out and here's what I found:

It makes sense now why it didn't lift as it obviously thought the brakes were being pressed!

Last night I went around the mounting points for the panhard rod and the radius arms to make sure they were tight. The panhard rod was ok but the radius arm mountings were slightly loose. I torqued them up and on the quick drive last night and my drive to work this morning I didn't hear any clunking. That was a nice easy fix.

Thanks all.

Seems quite likely. I'll go round and check they're all torqued up correctly this weekend hopefully.

Would a CV joint give a single click or would it be a series of clicks?

I should have mentioned that all of the front suspension bushes/ball joints have been replaced recently. The radius arm bushes, panhard rod bushes, hub ball joints, track rod, drag link and steering damper have all been replaced within the last year.

Not that that rules any of them out. I'll definitely give them another once over.

A while back I posted about clunking when accelerating. I thought I'd start a new thread as the symptoms have changed a bit.

Now I'm getting a clunk occasionally when I brake. It doesn't happen immediately when I press the brake only around less than 20mph. Secondly I can also hear clunks and a kind of spline clicking sound when accelerating from a stop and turning at the same time such as going around a roundabout.

I can't really pinpoint where it's coming from just somewhere on the front axle/front propshaft area. I've wiggled the u joints and couldn't feel any play on them. I'm not really sure what else I can do to try and pinpoint it further.

I'm wondering if it could be CV joints?

I'm trying to find the source of an oil leak near the passenger side head. I've replaced the rocker cover gasket and can't feel any leaks when I run my finger under the exhaust manifold side of the gasket. Has anyone else seen a similar leak?

Perfect, thanks a lot!

Hi,

Does anyone know the size of the olive that's used on the fitting to the GEMS fuel rail.

Thanks.