I had to remove the studs (tapped them out with a hammer and small socket) and then file the holes out slightly so they fit the mounting studs.

The car sits nice and level now!

I bought a new rear height sensor because the existing one wasn't giving a smooth reading throughout it's range. I picked ANR4687G from Island 4x4 - It came in a britpart box but has the dunlop mark on it.

I was expecting it to come with two mounting holes but instead it's got two threaded studs. My car is a 1995 model but I've got the adapter plates for the new height sensors (STC3594AA) shown below.

The instructions for the adapters say to attach the the sensor to the studs on the adapter, since the height sensors already have the studs I'm not sure how they mount

How do later cars mount the height sensors, using the studs on the height sensor? Has anyone else used the STC3593AA kit, how did you mount it?

I've also just bought a condenser. I only replaced it a year ago and it's leaking again in the top left corner. I left the foam block in place last time but it's going this time.

Hi,

Does anyone have any suggestions on what I should buy to refurbish my lightstone leather seats? There's no tears but they're all cracked and generally looking old so I'd like to bring them back to looking their best.

Thanks.

Nice to see more people from the North East. I'm near Darlington.

Mine doesn't have traction control, it's a 1995 model.

I'm interested in fitting the four wheel version at some point.

I re-used the original nut (didn't put any loctite on it though), I'll get a new nut and replace it.

I took the front prop back off again today and tested it, it still made the noise, it sounds like the noise is coming from the transfer box area. I then put another prop shaft that I had left over on and the noise has gone (for now). I can't think why the noise would still be there without a prop shaft and then go away with a different one?

Sorry for the bad explanation, that's exactly what I did. I did tighten it back up to the correct torque level for the nut which I have. I've got some new prop-shaft nuts/bolts coming next week so when I replace them I'll check/grease the UJs and recheck the torque level on that nut.

Hi all,
A few days ago I took the diff end of the front prop-shaft off to replace the pinion oil seal which was leaking. Ever since doing this I get a single clunk when I go from a closed throttle to accelerating again. I've checked the prop-shaft nuts are tight. I might just be imagining it but it also feels like there's slightly more vibration since doing this.

Could it be the u-joints? The front prop was new less than a year ago but I don't think I've greased it in all of that time. I need to buy a new grease cartridge for the gun later in the week and then I'll do that. Anyone else have any thoughts?

Thanks.

I'd like to come too depending on the date.

I'd like someone to help me find where my exhaust manifold leak noise is coming from! I've replaced it multiple times but haven't managed to solve it yet. Apart from that I'm up for helping anyone else.

Totally understand Marty. I would think the same.

I've not tried reading the ROM but yes you can put it into bootstrap mode. From there you send your program to it via serial and it will run. I might see if I can read the ROM later...

The one I have is a KA4.

Would you mind sharing some of that info Marty? I've written something to dump the EEPROM from the BECM but haven't gotten around to decoding any of the info yet as I'd have to stick it in the car, change each setting, read it again and look for the difference - that's the hardest part! I'm hoping to make something cheap to reprogram BECMs.

I was interested in reprogramming the Motorola on the board by replacing it with a non OTP chip but I'm guessing that quite a lot of the logic is also located in the gate-array chip next to it. Out of curiosity have you had a look to see what that chip is actually controlling?

Can anyone point me in the direction of these solenoids which have both intake and exhaust?

I've noticed a problem with logging in previously. I entered my username and password and clicked the button but didn't get any username and password incorrect message. After entering it three more times and not getting any messages the captcha showed up. Completing that allowed me to log in.

I've just logged out and tried again and it's still doing that. I don't see the captcha until the third or fourth login attempt and I can't login until I see it.

Has anyone else fitted one of these height sensor kits for the < 97MY? Part numbers STC3593AA and STC3594AA.

Here are the instructions. Step two says to mount the height sensors on the adapter bracket studs - the problem with that is that the height sensors themselves have studs already in them! If you put the studs on the bracket through the chassis holes then the holes for the height sensor studs are obstructed. I then saw a post on RR.net about the kit and that guy took the height sensor studs out. I did that and the holes on my height sensor don't line up. Am I being stupid or are Britpart total retards?

You can see a picture of the kit here with the studs removed

The old sensor broke upon removing so I have no suspension until I figure out what to do...

Orangebean wrote:

IIRC there's a dialogue box that comes up to confirm recording stopped as well.

Yep I think I remember seeing that.

In case anyone cares the britpart height sensors appear to be branded Dunlop which is a good I guess.

Thanks. Your pictures loaded instantly for me.

When I was recording the CSV file, the entire screen showed a progress bar and a stop recording button so I made sure to click that and give it a few seconds before unplugging the nanocom.

Rear height sensors have arrived. I've also bought a compressor refurb kit. I did it maybe two years ago now so I figured it couldn't hurt to do it again.

I recorded it to the SD card. I think you can record any of the screens with the little save symbol.

As Orangebean said BBS has a tool to view the data or you can just import it to excel. For some reason it's seperated by semi colons but you can still import to excel by opening a blank document. Then in the data menu there is an import from text wizard that will allow you to choose the delimiter.

Captured some data today with the Nanocom on my drive to work.

First thing I noticed is that in my 25 mile drive the compressor ran for 87% of the time which is obviously bad. The valve block was refurbed recently. On the motorway section the ride heights were fairly constant but before and after they look a bit erractic. I can possibly explain the start ones due to going over speed bumps but theres nothing at the end that is that rough.

Another graph showing the difference of each valve from it's target height.