Wow few days I could not pass by the pub and you guys have made a lot of work - and talk!
And I though this was a lazy forum ... can't keep the pace lol!

Me ... ah, I've manage to send my BeCM window switchgear and fobs to the Maestro to look at.

And I've found this online this in case someone had not seen it and thinks is interesting
https://drive-my.com/en/history/1945-25th-anniversary-range-rover-p38.html?start=12

some details are not really accurate, but is a minor issue :-)

If you have a go at it ... I am also a potential customer!
Mine is on the shelf and looking quite tatty ... can even strip to make it easier arf arf
And you have all the time on the world ... I will not be ready before end of the summer with the rest!!! :-)

I am waiting someone to make a full all-alloy for Thor. These seems to be - or have been - a product made in Australia, but is too far for me.
I recommend to stay away from very far east products in this department, or at least make sure don't overpay for them.
Even reputable brands like Nissens are turning out products - at least the ones applicable to our Audi range - very poorly made.

Used searched but no results ... a mate from Italy has a late Diesel with the MAF sensor, and his HawkEye shows a "Boost Temperature" reading fixed always at 124.8 deg. Vehicle has no strange behavior, fuel consumption in the norm, smoke, all seems fine, but the weird data remains.
He tried swapping MAF with another friend same year/model but no change in the data observed. Unfortunately don't have access to a Nano or other means of checking (actually, do these phony things app like Torque work on P38s?).
Anyone has come across a similar case?

A myth is falling apart on me as I read all this ... I was so proud blabbering to my fellows about "the last of the Connolly, that old British workmanship bla bla bla" :-)))
Well I guess I will keep silent on the subject for the future :-)

Sorry for the wrong wording - we call all them silicon here lol :-)

The old sealant is not so bad to take off - a good cutter knife with new blade and keeping a spare blade or two is essential.
Then you need patience - lots! - and work your way around the edge of the screen, and in the car.
The older the "old" sealant, the harder and easier.

During my learning curve, early last year I have to remove a screen whose sealant failed after a day (right type, but probably a failed product, never used that brand again), and the screen had dropped around half an inch overnight, in spite of the tape.
That thing had become a semi-liquidish oozing thing, it was a nightmare. I still got some on my work clothes as a reminder ... luckily the car was bright white and the paintwork easy to recover :-)

Sorry to turn up like a bad penny but I was told by my headlights' refurbisher that the Valeo lamps for the P38 are not of easy disassembly with the chances of breaking the glass very high, because of the way the sealant is "embedded" in the housing, he actually refused to do it.
He rarely turns down a challenge, so I do not doubt he knows what he is talking about.
If you do manage though, I'll keep in mind your success to have mine refurb.

In the meantime I'd stick with the hole idea ....

That is an interesting piece of advice I plan to follow ... specific "car" products are quite expensive just because.

Ok for conditioner to keep the leather supple, what do you use for cleaning?

He, many things can go wrong, but the more tricky operation is actually the fitting.
We've played on a few cars with removal and fitting ourselves, it is best left to a professional (more on this later) but for removal with some patience, much care and some tools, it is not an impossible task.

You need the wire, use the handles or also a couple of screwdrivers are fine. You need an assistant, the screen is large.
Usually they are bonded with good strong silicon, so a lot of hacking is needed. Plan for at least 30min to an hour of work only in that.
For prep work, in the P38 you need to remove all the trims, the two lateral ones (by the A-pillar) are held in place by screws hidden in the rubber. Once exposed, there are acrobatics with door open at various degrees to get them at. For the lower ones you might find the mirror is in the way, so take screwdrivers of different sizes.
The bottom one looks plasticky, but it actually has a metal insert that keeps the shape. It is held in place by small clips that fit in preselected holes in the ... cabin filter covers and the central cowling.
If the one in the breaker looks mint, get it as well, is a NLA part and always pays to have a nice one. Collect all the clips you can find, if your car had a replacement screen made in the past, you will have a few missing surely!
The top one according to the workshop manual has some slotted pins, mine was silicon glued (bastards) after replacement so cannot help there, never seen how it goes.
From the inside the dash will bother, but if you cannot remove it, that is. If the liner is good to save go VERY carefully around there, because the wire can cut it in fast and easily.
Once you ready, and identified where the heating wires (if any) are - don't cut them with the wire lol!
Set a point where you start - usually a corner - , get the wire in, and start hacking away at a shallow angle. Not too fast, not too slow. You feel the way the wire cuts through and move accordingly. Many position changes might be needed. Don't rush and don't pull, the glass is very ... sensitive by the borders. One chink and the screen is history in a handful of seconds (ask me how I know).

For installation, the glass needs to be very well cleaned and degreased, and you need a specific type silicon (for glass) which is not the normal stuff. It is not expensive, but it has to be the right things. Depending on the age and condition of your car, you might need some sort of primer to add. The silicon needs also a very good pistol, and a dedicated angle of apply. If you are not experienced or don't feel it ... don't. We've tried a couple of times and while we did manage, it is much more hassle than worth hiring a specialist to fit it.
The problem - REAL problem - is that you need to make sure the "specialist" has a clue on how the screen goes fitted to YOUR specific vehicle! Too high or too low, too far out or too in, and you are condemned to a lifetime of wind noise.
Read the section in the workshop manual and make sure that - kindly - you get a feel if the "pro" has a clue about it.

We use a fitter with more than 25 yrs in the business, we've fitted with him more than 30 screens to the same make and model car, so we've been around in where it goes, and yet there is a screw up here and there still ... so beware!

My own P38 has an ill-fitted screen and I have access to a good replacement, but I won't touch until I find someone that knows how exactly it goes in.

Actually to me the message was that the security certificate for the site (or host) was outdated/expired, thus a "warning suspicious website" notification was issued ... since I have the option to allow me control of that, I did go further regardless - knowing the site is not "suspicious"*. Other peoples' browsers might have different setups, perhaps more invasive.

• the pub in itself is not "suspicious", but the more I dig the more I think many of its denizens and content are!
  Just joking - I love this place ... wish I had more time to entertain it!

For what is worth, is much easier to remove the engine coolant rad than the A/C one (piping might be very well "welded" on the threads of it, so better not touch it unless very necessary).
If you just remove the pipes cowl and fan, with minimal loss of coolant you have full access to the oil and g-b coolers, and you can assess the situation.
These two coolers "loosing fuld" cost me an engine radiator and almost the entire engine itself ... don't let it go on for too long.

Thor indeed that is why I was watching with particular interest.
I'll get started ordering parts and will photo how it goes (I need to change the belt anyway so will do all at once).

That is a fantastic job and compliments! Looks a tad too modern for me, but the finish is right on! Working on plastic trim is nightmarish when you want to achieve a gloss finish ... luckily all our projects are for matt, makes it easier!

Nice touch the remote ... I recognized the knob in the pic before I read the text and I am like wtf there ... nice call!

Thanks! And so you tell me what I need is a 12x1.5 thread (which is the one your temp gauge did not have).
I will start to look for parts for this new contraption I am planning ...

You mean that useless foam? Better to use window/glass silicon - the one they use in the shops where they change windshields. Flexible and seals 200%, albeit a pain to remove as it sticks very well.
This reminds me I made this work more than two winters ago and I should follow up on that - have not had any leaking so far, but it never pays to re-check.

I am always amazed at the water ingress capabilities of British-built Land Rover vehicles. Considering the weather you guys get there, one would assume there at Solihull them boys would pay a little more attention to the topic ...

Uh, curiously I am planning to do the same, you sure there is space for the pressure gauge sender there? Or it needs a relocation hose?
How would you plan to wire both pressure sensor AND the OE pressure switch cable? Usually they use this "tee" arrangement I have been suggested couple weeks ago in here, which I have still not bought since I need to get all ordered and if I get the wrong ones can't return them ....

Black and purple as ground pass through that dreadful C0229 which you show as "little corroded". Make sure that is clean well! The ETM gives it for my MY (00) as ending in "RH rear of engine compartment near Engine Compartment Fuse Box"

Before you start go crazy, get the multimeter and check for continuity in the ground wires (both black and purple black) at the OBD plug and from C0229 (the purple/black one) and follow them to the grounds on the chassis.

Again, if you have positive 12V at the connector and doubt the ground, you can make a temp connection directly to the ground bolt in the A-pillar kick panel to get your nanocom started ...

I am with romanbob and Marty on this one, I would focus on getting the diagnostics up and running first. It is easy, is a direct connection from the battery, no BeCM or weird intermediaries sans one, read on: when I first got my queen, also the OBD was dead. I had power at fuse F33, but the Nano was dead.
The wire is a brown one as correctly indicated my Marty, his memory serves him well.
What I did was to drop the panel under the glovebox and get full access to the connector, then stick a multimeter at pin16 - the brown wire - and check for a pulse (12V), there was none.
I then ran a temporary wire (brown of course) directly from the battery + to the connector, and et voila' the Nano startup trill was a go.
I found out later my C0229 connector was totally f%^$ with extensive corrosion - the one by the kick panel.
After several fixes, it still haunts me as I screwed up some cable splicing, but this is matter for another topic :-)

I have had to deal with similar cases, it is tricky but not impossible. Headlining whatever, the carpet might be saved if you pull it out and wash it well. You might want to buy some "mold killer" or "mold removal" product for upholstery.
For sure now until you get done, try to keep as much as you can the vehicle ventilated (open windows, roof, and the like) compatible with your parking options. You can get some salt or rice to absorb moisture eventually. Sun and heat are your best friends!

Found this mess inside my rear 1/4.
Looks like someone dented the panel and to fix it they welded some bolt or similar to "pull it out".
About your water ingress, surely you have looked at, how are your sunroof drain pipes on the a-pillars?

Great advice THANKS! I was actually wondering what to do ... and afraid there would be not much space (was wondering about rivnuts). If bolts and nuts fit is a perfect long term and serviceable solution. Will do that!