Actually to me the message was that the security certificate for the site (or host) was outdated/expired, thus a "warning suspicious website" notification was issued ... since I have the option to allow me control of that, I did go further regardless - knowing the site is not "suspicious"*. Other peoples' browsers might have different setups, perhaps more invasive.
- the pub in itself is not "suspicious", but the more I dig the more I think many of its denizens and content are!
Just joking - I love this place ... wish I had more time to entertain it!
For what is worth, is much easier to remove the engine coolant rad than the A/C one (piping might be very well "welded" on the threads of it, so better not touch it unless very necessary).
If you just remove the pipes cowl and fan, with minimal loss of coolant you have full access to the oil and g-b coolers, and you can assess the situation.
These two coolers "loosing fuld" cost me an engine radiator and almost the entire engine itself ... don't let it go on for too long.
Thor indeed that is why I was watching with particular interest.
I'll get started ordering parts and will photo how it goes (I need to change the belt anyway so will do all at once).
That is a fantastic job and compliments! Looks a tad too modern for me, but the finish is right on! Working on plastic trim is nightmarish when you want to achieve a gloss finish ... luckily all our projects are for matt, makes it easier!
Nice touch the remote ... I recognized the knob in the pic before I read the text and I am like wtf there ... nice call!
Thanks! And so you tell me what I need is a 12x1.5 thread (which is the one your temp gauge did not have).
I will start to look for parts for this new contraption I am planning ...
You mean that useless foam? Better to use window/glass silicon - the one they use in the shops where they change windshields. Flexible and seals 200%, albeit a pain to remove as it sticks very well.
This reminds me I made this work more than two winters ago and I should follow up on that - have not had any leaking so far, but it never pays to re-check.
I am always amazed at the water ingress capabilities of British-built Land Rover vehicles. Considering the weather you guys get there, one would assume there at Solihull them boys would pay a little more attention to the topic ...
Uh, curiously I am planning to do the same, you sure there is space for the pressure gauge sender there? Or it needs a relocation hose?
How would you plan to wire both pressure sensor AND the OE pressure switch cable? Usually they use this "tee" arrangement I have been suggested couple weeks ago in here, which I have still not bought since I need to get all ordered and if I get the wrong ones can't return them ....
Black and purple as ground pass through that dreadful C0229 which you show as "little corroded". Make sure that is clean well! The ETM gives it for my MY (00) as ending in "RH rear of engine compartment near Engine Compartment Fuse Box"
Before you start go crazy, get the multimeter and check for continuity in the ground wires (both black and purple black) at the OBD plug and from C0229 (the purple/black one) and follow them to the grounds on the chassis.
Again, if you have positive 12V at the connector and doubt the ground, you can make a temp connection directly to the ground bolt in the A-pillar kick panel to get your nanocom started ...
I am with romanbob and Marty on this one, I would focus on getting the diagnostics up and running first. It is easy, is a direct connection from the battery, no BeCM or weird intermediaries sans one, read on: when I first got my queen, also the OBD was dead. I had power at fuse F33, but the Nano was dead.
The wire is a brown one as correctly indicated my Marty, his memory serves him well.
What I did was to drop the panel under the glovebox and get full access to the connector, then stick a multimeter at pin16 - the brown wire - and check for a pulse (12V), there was none.
I then ran a temporary wire (brown of course) directly from the battery + to the connector, and et voila' the Nano startup trill was a go.
I found out later my C0229 connector was totally f%^$ with extensive corrosion - the one by the kick panel.
After several fixes, it still haunts me as I screwed up some cable splicing, but this is matter for another topic :-)
I have had to deal with similar cases, it is tricky but not impossible. Headlining whatever, the carpet might be saved if you pull it out and wash it well. You might want to buy some "mold killer" or "mold removal" product for upholstery.
For sure now until you get done, try to keep as much as you can the vehicle ventilated (open windows, roof, and the like) compatible with your parking options. You can get some salt or rice to absorb moisture eventually. Sun and heat are your best friends!
Found this mess inside my rear 1/4.
Looks like someone dented the panel and to fix it they welded some bolt or similar to "pull it out".
About your water ingress, surely you have looked at, how are your sunroof drain pipes on the a-pillars?
Great advice THANKS! I was actually wondering what to do ... and afraid there would be not much space (was wondering about rivnuts). If bolts and nuts fit is a perfect long term and serviceable solution. Will do that!
It seems every journey in a RRP38 is an epic adventure isn't is? :-)
ah ah pics are coming! today I made a better check ... et voila'!
you were correct plug has been mangled and all non-oe stuff mounted. distasteful.
went to open up the donor to check, and lo and behold now i think i know what to look for
will now try to find some time to get all other three door cards out, and see what gives :-)
On the topic of the subwoofer, do I risk frying everything if I run an aftermarket amp using the power wires from the original HK amp? I ditched the original HU setup and after fitting the attenuators, I am now running cabling for the sub - will keep the original HK sub (obviously with new drivers, mine were beyond shot), but with a Blaukpunkt GTA270DSP, 200W RMS in mono at 4ohm, 20A fuse, but asks for minimum section 6mm2?
In case the original setup is not feasible, can I splice into the rear left power (the one for the tow hitch) or better run directly something from the front (more wires!)?
Wow so much info from just one look!
Now I def can see is not original, as it has a 2012 date and "BUONO" which means "Good" in Italian, probably a manufacturing quality label or such.
I will take out the door card of the donor and see if is the same... donor looks less messed up with.
Windows' mechanism do work fine (except rear left), driver was a little jumpy but I always assumed were the guides being old. Now it might be something else ...
I am not afraid to take the regulators out, just an annoyance as you say. On the other hand, I have one rear door to replace (been hit in the past and full of body filler) ... the insulation to put ... door handles to replace ... :-)))
In my opinion, yes and no. Certainly no lid means better air flow, but the air that comes, comes from that large ... oven in the middle of the engine bay ... which might be worse.
I know those things can withstand some heat, I am not so sure about things in the engine bay being "... designed and built to be able to ... there are so many idiotic features on the P38 you have to put some doubt on what really went through their minds when placing certain components ...
Oh well I was more thinking in a physical barrier made with alu sheets shaped to fit around the engine, and coated with fire/heat insulation
Changing the heights, Leo? I've got all heights set up like this, with no ill effects. What happened?
ah ... I got a front left sensor that plays "low" always, so I am sloped down on one side. This since I replaced, so I assume is to be calibrated. After I finish playing with the wires ...
However the EAS compressor even though it only runs intermittently is Scalding hot, i can "just" put my hand around it..
I've noticed that the entire bay if hot "obviously" so would that be a contributor?
I'd like to think how to make some sort of isolating barrier to save all the ancillaries from that V8 heat ... on one side you got the air box, EAS, CC and engine ECU and servo (oops, some have it on the other side!), on the other battery and fusebox. None of these things really like heat ...
During this dreaded period I am busier than ever, but managed to find two minutes to strip the door card to get access to the latch, to replace it and try to solve the usual fob sync issue, I have Marty waiting for an answer .... hope to get it done soon.
In the process I stumbled across two plugs that appear to be free and unused, but that I cannot figure out for what they are. Any ideas? They look original and very unused ... This is driver's door - that would be "left" for LHD :-)
As I mentioned elsewhere, something went weird when I tried this method. Can't work on it now, but I wait to see how you do it ...
Uh, bring this one up from the past to announce my shame. It is not sooo much like to go in the cockup topic (I am saving courage for that one), but puzzling enough.
I've always read about these 'calibration blocks' and the procedure. I have a Nano and know what to read and look for, and I got from a friend that has a good workshop a set of blocks just for the purpose. I copied all the information available on the web, which seems to be consistent.
Now, over time I arrived at new compressor, rebuilt valve block (tested on another vehicle all is fine), new sensors, new bags. Time to calibrate ... I put the beast in level ground, lift up and .... these blocks look way way smaller than the distance between the bump stop "hole" and the pad on the axle where the bump stop rests. I got way more than 145mm at high setting .... what am I doing wrong?