Wow so much info from just one look!

Now I def can see is not original, as it has a 2012 date and "BUONO" which means "Good" in Italian, probably a manufacturing quality label or such.
I will take out the door card of the donor and see if is the same... donor looks less messed up with.
Windows' mechanism do work fine (except rear left), driver was a little jumpy but I always assumed were the guides being old. Now it might be something else ...

I am not afraid to take the regulators out, just an annoyance as you say. On the other hand, I have one rear door to replace (been hit in the past and full of body filler) ... the insulation to put ... door handles to replace ... :-)))

In my opinion, yes and no. Certainly no lid means better air flow, but the air that comes, comes from that large ... oven in the middle of the engine bay ... which might be worse.
I know those things can withstand some heat, I am not so sure about things in the engine bay being "... designed and built to be able to ... there are so many idiotic features on the P38 you have to put some doubt on what really went through their minds when placing certain components ...
Oh well I was more thinking in a physical barrier made with alu sheets shaped to fit around the engine, and coated with fire/heat insulation

Changing the heights, Leo? I've got all heights set up like this, with no ill effects. What happened?

ah ... I got a front left sensor that plays "low" always, so I am sloped down on one side. This since I replaced, so I assume is to be calibrated. After I finish playing with the wires ...

However the EAS compressor even though it only runs intermittently is Scalding hot, i can "just" put my hand around it..
I've noticed that the entire bay if hot "obviously" so would that be a contributor?

I'd like to think how to make some sort of isolating barrier to save all the ancillaries from that V8 heat ... on one side you got the air box, EAS, CC and engine ECU and servo (oops, some have it on the other side!), on the other battery and fusebox. None of these things really like heat ...

During this dreaded period I am busier than ever, but managed to find two minutes to strip the door card to get access to the latch, to replace it and try to solve the usual fob sync issue, I have Marty waiting for an answer .... hope to get it done soon.
In the process I stumbled across two plugs that appear to be free and unused, but that I cannot figure out for what they are. Any ideas? They look original and very unused ... This is driver's door - that would be "left" for LHD :-)

As I mentioned elsewhere, something went weird when I tried this method. Can't work on it now, but I wait to see how you do it ...

Uh, bring this one up from the past to announce my shame. It is not sooo much like to go in the cockup topic (I am saving courage for that one), but puzzling enough.
I've always read about these 'calibration blocks' and the procedure. I have a Nano and know what to read and look for, and I got from a friend that has a good workshop a set of blocks just for the purpose. I copied all the information available on the web, which seems to be consistent.

Now, over time I arrived at new compressor, rebuilt valve block (tested on another vehicle all is fine), new sensors, new bags. Time to calibrate ... I put the beast in level ground, lift up and .... these blocks look way way smaller than the distance between the bump stop "hole" and the pad on the axle where the bump stop rests. I got way more than 145mm at high setting .... what am I doing wrong?

Then you are in for the acrobatics ... done better when you're younger, but.
Try to get rent or borrow one of them "wet" vacuum cleaners. Take out the bottom plastics (she can be used without them as well if needs be) lift the carpets by section and try to suck out as much water as you can.
With the same scheme you can move to the "heater" (keep distance between heater and foam!) in whatever downtime you can get. It will alleviate the problem ... do not use anything very sharp, it breaks the foam :-(
I use wooden blocks.

Yeah, might be late ... we do them before fitting them, masking tape to cover the undesired areas and a touch of matt spray is enough to live it up a little.
You can do it mounted, but you need to mask more :-)

Agree with all. Mind you, methods with heaters and so on inside the vehicle are possible, but not that effective.
Best "drier" I have found some far is the Sun :-)
Nothing beats a good afternoon baking, both sides :-)
Any smell just ... disappears!

Nice nice nice!

Please pass some black spray on that crankcase pulley before fitting a belt, I know is a minor cosmetic touch but ...

I had one missing in mine, but after fitting the tow connector all is fine :-)
Hope you get it from someone here, reference is NTC8902 and if available should cost next to nothing.

To the supreme leader of this establishment: could such type of topic be used for a "want/offer/exchange" corner?
No commercial advertising of course, just a means to get, swap, or get rid of stuff in a more friendly manner ...

This fall right into my area ... in our resto/custom projects part of the deep cleaning and "renewal" of interior parts includes heavy washing to get rid of several years of dirt, and the foam soaking is a classic occurrence.
Sorry to be blunt and drastic, but with the proposed ideas will be nearly impossible to get rid of the wetness, you might also incur in a mushy smell that you might never get rid of, or the foam rotting and disintegrating, which I seem to understand is already happening.
The type of cells of the foam are not made to hold water, nor they easily release it ... I've had a car leaking water in (it is a parts car in our wrecker yard) and even after a full summer with little rain the bottom part would still be wet ... I've had another in which I was unable to pull the carpet out to access some connectors, the water turned to ice (it was winter) and it "glued" the foam to the metal :-)

The P38 has a very very thick foam, even by other brands' luxury vehicles standards ... really high and heat formed very precisely to the metal floor. Don't cut it, even if partially missing it still keeps the shape somehow.
The only real solution is to take it out and let it dry, the way Clive did.

Would propping the carpet up and using a heatgun on low allow the foam to dry out do ya'll think?
Propping a piece up and putting heat is a miserable solution with questionable results. DO NOT use a heat gun because the concentrated heat melts the foam, which contracts sharply and makes a horrible smell (don't ask me how I know). At most, you can use one of these small heater like for the bathroom (obviously you need a mains... uh, you guys in UK got what, 110V?). And you need to think to leave it for hours and hours, and you will never be able to get all the foam to dry anyway, since whatever remains in contact with the floor is still ... wet. And besides the time and electrical expense and the risk of melting down the heater directly, you also need to keep the car ventilated from time to time .... ah! and you might end up twisting/deforming the carpet - depending on the "propping element", which will probably ruin it. Been there, done that :-( (all of it including the heater meltdown lol)

What Clive suggests, to do we do it regularly in our workshop with the vacuum cleaner/carpet washer (we use a Karcher SE400, borderline between a home appliance and a pro machine, but okay for regular use).
But only when you cannot get the carpet out, otherwise the best way is to really take everything out, power-wash it with good household cleaning materials, and then use the vacuum to take the biggest drip and then let it dry naturally. Obviously is a nice season job.
This type of "wet vacuum" machines can help you take some of the water in the foam underside the carpet, but it is a long an tedious job. Nevertheless, if you cannot get the carpet out now, and you have access to one of those, you can give it a go for the time being and guaranteed will remove some of the water.

Sorry for the long post. Now, some candy ... here's the underside of the carpet, see how precisely it fits!

And here is being washed .... lots of dirt, it changed actually color

One of my mates in Italy, long time tinkerer on P38s, told me once most shocks past the OE Boge are too firm, which ill suits the spring damping of the EAS. I can't tell ...

You guys are a lovely bunch ...thanks!

wow that is a nice stable!

I think I will also add a note of a different color .... my beauty in green ... but I do not have any current "whole" photos so ....

After a looot of lingering and money wasted (I am gearing up for the "biggest cock up" topic, I think I have good chances of winning a respectable prize there :-/ ) I've finally came across a non-runner (engine no compression) '99 4.6 with a nice body and interior for a cheap price and at only 10km from my workplace and could not let it go ... here it is with my current workhorse taking it "home"

Good info! I've never used the Bosch but now will give it a go!
The original LR how does it fare in these aspects?

Good info! Will switch to 10W-60 when I get the beast out of hibernation ...

My same dilemma ... thicker to hold on more, or thinner to pick up fast? Waiting some wizard to shed light on this :-)

Since the "RR remedies" is no longer available as a direct link - at least I do not know where to find it, we might as well start making our own list of stuff in case needed. Any ideas how to share files which are not photos (I've never done it so far) so we can post and swap guides and "how to" if needed?

Isn't 10W-60 a wee too much hi-tech for the RV8?
I use 10W-60 on my Guzzi ... I did use the Edge EST and later the Motul 7100. Stopped with both as there are too many counterfeit out there and can't trust them.
I use now Marly, I know the importers since years and know can trust the product.