Be wary when messing around the fan, mine "disintegrated" and left me with quite a mess ...

This is a good idea, lately I've had a couple of A8s in the shop and the gears that move the display in and out tend to strip teeth every few years. If you can get the size right, I think is a good idea for those whose motors are still alive!

Welcome!
You've got most of your questions sorted out ... if you can differentiate between an electronic or a pneumatic issue with the EAS, is a good start. If it stays "up" with electronics disconnected, you already have a number of culprits ...
I recommend your find and download the workshop manual and the electronic troubleshoot manual (which holds diagrams and connections), and give them a "pan" read just to get acquainted with the various sections and with the systems in the car, layout and location of major components, and so on.
Will make your life easier and also easier to pinpoint areas of possible trouble.
Get a lot of clips! If you come across a breaker with parts and get a lock, you can send it to marty and have it refurbished as reserve.

Inevitably, to keep alive any vehicle you must have faced the inevitable dreadful news of no longer available parts ...
Can we use this topic to list stuff becoming unavailable for the P38s and eventual alternatives or options, even makeshift ones?
Not talking about any uber-rare Autobiography stuff or unicorn accessories, but most basic things sooner or later we all might need.

For example, I've been made aware that temp sensor by the heater core, STC3256, is NLA (Valeo). I am happy I got mine recently, but I am not sure how to rig something when it will go south.

OEM heater core Valeo is also out of catalogue, still can be found (I got one as NOS - New Old Stock in UK, incidentally). Alternatives are available (Nissens, Britpart), but not sure I'd swear by those.

Keep going ...

I got too much to list, but then much of it is stuff I've gathered over the years to refurb it, eventually use it, but knowing if it has to go, will not lose much of its value.
The RR stays, as well as the '95 S6 C4 20vt (to finish interior and bodywork), and the '83 280ZX (must undergo full resto, someday). The ones to go, somehow, are the '97 A6 C4 2.8 30v which is a current runabout, the S6 Plus that is almost complete, and the HZJ which I never managed to travel the world with :-(
The woman has a '04 Micra K12 1.2 auto which in spite of everything known and said has been utterly reliable, and which she never plans to part with, but now is nagging me to search for a nice Lexus CT200h for non-city use (she don't really like my stuff and don't drive except in long trips when I need to rest).
Don't have photos uploaded at the moment ...

Taking off from this phrase from Gilbertd on the 'EAS height' topic ....
It was designed the way it was for a reason so quite why people seem to think they know better than the man who designed it is beyond me.....
... without wanting to sound like flaming, I always find a lot of issues (sometimes idiotic) with the design of the vehicles I own, maintain, repair, and modify. Often said modifications are to address shortcomings or flaws in the original design, due to constrains or requirements set by the manufacturer (which I do not necessarily need to abide to), outdated/obsolete components (normal, nothing to complain about), and so on, but other times, are something completely out if any reasonable thinking .... now, without getting into the obvious of the P38s design shortcomings (say, the RF), what curious quirks or strange things of the P38 call your attention?

One of my most mind-boiling ones is the decision to throw the driveshafts and output of the BW TF on the left side, opposite to any other LR since 1948, needing a separate arrangement for everything, and obviously negating the possibility to share components with the rest of the vehicle range. I have not come across a sensible justification for such decision. The Taylor claims it was done to improve comfort for the driver (in RHD vehicles) having more legroom, but there is not really a noticeable difference ....

About the EAS, while I understand locking the operation while brake is on and/or door(s) is(are) open, don't see really the reason for it to 'wake up' and settle/level the vehicle. You might object is in order to avoid excessive leaning, but honestly even if you deflate fully one bag only, it does not really go that much out of normal ... it seems designed to just waste air - and drain battery. Am I missing something?

Mind you, I love the RRP38 as a whole, this is just for ....pub talk ;-)

Contrast for me as well ... other one is too blingly.
Plus, at the end of the day is a 4x4 off-road capable vehicle, and bumpers "must" be black! :-)

Good call, I did that couple years ago and it was a good improvement!

This is a good tip I did not thought of that ... no issues with welding alloy, got a guy close to me that I use to re-make AC lines he is exactly what needed :-)
Pity now I got a brand new (made only 5-6K km) bripart (more about this I promise in the cock-up area), but will put it in the list of future gear ...

When I started looking at P38s, I started also looking at forum to see the various stories and issues, and solutions.
Most of the info is very old in most cases, in some places which go back many years.
When I browse around in English, I've found aulro.com to be very informative and balanced, and pleasant. I went through ALL the pages of their P38 section .... (this is something I usually do with every vehicle I own!)
When I went to landyzone or rr.net I've noticed a distinct different vibe ... I actually went through a few pages and never bother with the rest. Bad attitude ... some guys in LZ would not even want to meet :-/
For rr.net, nevermind (with all due respect) US-based forum have next to nil usefulness to anyone living outside their world, for various reasons.
I don't recall the site, but the French have a very complete and well-behaved forum. Only in French (of course!) and you need to go through a translator through it.

But the pub ... this is the most cozy place I have ever been, and I've been in forums for +15 years and easily maybe over 30K posts.
Amazing vibes in here, no trolling, no flaming, and especially when dealing with a vehicle 99% of the motoring world (knowledgeable and not) considers utter crap, and a lost cause.

It was a delight to read this story!
Maybe is a phase of my life, but I also think a car like this - except for parts or because you really really really really want it - is not worth getting.
More than being put up for sale - or auction, is the same - it looks like "dumped" or "thrown". There is always a reason .... better not to find out.
I bought a number of vehicles (both personal and in my business) in various derelict stages, and it proved to be always a labor of love more than anything else, and in case of a vehicle to sell for a profit ... uufgh not always a good affair.
Like a hole in the head ... eh eh I like that :-)

Wow few days I could not pass by the pub and you guys have made a lot of work - and talk!
And I though this was a lazy forum ... can't keep the pace lol!

Me ... ah, I've manage to send my BeCM window switchgear and fobs to the Maestro to look at.

And I've found this online this in case someone had not seen it and thinks is interesting
https://drive-my.com/en/history/1945-25th-anniversary-range-rover-p38.html?start=12

some details are not really accurate, but is a minor issue :-)

If you have a go at it ... I am also a potential customer!
Mine is on the shelf and looking quite tatty ... can even strip to make it easier arf arf
And you have all the time on the world ... I will not be ready before end of the summer with the rest!!! :-)

I am waiting someone to make a full all-alloy for Thor. These seems to be - or have been - a product made in Australia, but is too far for me.
I recommend to stay away from very far east products in this department, or at least make sure don't overpay for them.
Even reputable brands like Nissens are turning out products - at least the ones applicable to our Audi range - very poorly made.

Used searched but no results ... a mate from Italy has a late Diesel with the MAF sensor, and his HawkEye shows a "Boost Temperature" reading fixed always at 124.8 deg. Vehicle has no strange behavior, fuel consumption in the norm, smoke, all seems fine, but the weird data remains.
He tried swapping MAF with another friend same year/model but no change in the data observed. Unfortunately don't have access to a Nano or other means of checking (actually, do these phony things app like Torque work on P38s?).
Anyone has come across a similar case?

A myth is falling apart on me as I read all this ... I was so proud blabbering to my fellows about "the last of the Connolly, that old British workmanship bla bla bla" :-)))
Well I guess I will keep silent on the subject for the future :-)

Sorry for the wrong wording - we call all them silicon here lol :-)

The old sealant is not so bad to take off - a good cutter knife with new blade and keeping a spare blade or two is essential.
Then you need patience - lots! - and work your way around the edge of the screen, and in the car.
The older the "old" sealant, the harder and easier.

During my learning curve, early last year I have to remove a screen whose sealant failed after a day (right type, but probably a failed product, never used that brand again), and the screen had dropped around half an inch overnight, in spite of the tape.
That thing had become a semi-liquidish oozing thing, it was a nightmare. I still got some on my work clothes as a reminder ... luckily the car was bright white and the paintwork easy to recover :-)

Sorry to turn up like a bad penny but I was told by my headlights' refurbisher that the Valeo lamps for the P38 are not of easy disassembly with the chances of breaking the glass very high, because of the way the sealant is "embedded" in the housing, he actually refused to do it.
He rarely turns down a challenge, so I do not doubt he knows what he is talking about.
If you do manage though, I'll keep in mind your success to have mine refurb.

In the meantime I'd stick with the hole idea ....

That is an interesting piece of advice I plan to follow ... specific "car" products are quite expensive just because.

Ok for conditioner to keep the leather supple, what do you use for cleaning?

He, many things can go wrong, but the more tricky operation is actually the fitting.
We've played on a few cars with removal and fitting ourselves, it is best left to a professional (more on this later) but for removal with some patience, much care and some tools, it is not an impossible task.

You need the wire, use the handles or also a couple of screwdrivers are fine. You need an assistant, the screen is large.
Usually they are bonded with good strong silicon, so a lot of hacking is needed. Plan for at least 30min to an hour of work only in that.
For prep work, in the P38 you need to remove all the trims, the two lateral ones (by the A-pillar) are held in place by screws hidden in the rubber. Once exposed, there are acrobatics with door open at various degrees to get them at. For the lower ones you might find the mirror is in the way, so take screwdrivers of different sizes.
The bottom one looks plasticky, but it actually has a metal insert that keeps the shape. It is held in place by small clips that fit in preselected holes in the ... cabin filter covers and the central cowling.
If the one in the breaker looks mint, get it as well, is a NLA part and always pays to have a nice one. Collect all the clips you can find, if your car had a replacement screen made in the past, you will have a few missing surely!
The top one according to the workshop manual has some slotted pins, mine was silicon glued (bastards) after replacement so cannot help there, never seen how it goes.
From the inside the dash will bother, but if you cannot remove it, that is. If the liner is good to save go VERY carefully around there, because the wire can cut it in fast and easily.
Once you ready, and identified where the heating wires (if any) are - don't cut them with the wire lol!
Set a point where you start - usually a corner - , get the wire in, and start hacking away at a shallow angle. Not too fast, not too slow. You feel the way the wire cuts through and move accordingly. Many position changes might be needed. Don't rush and don't pull, the glass is very ... sensitive by the borders. One chink and the screen is history in a handful of seconds (ask me how I know).

For installation, the glass needs to be very well cleaned and degreased, and you need a specific type silicon (for glass) which is not the normal stuff. It is not expensive, but it has to be the right things. Depending on the age and condition of your car, you might need some sort of primer to add. The silicon needs also a very good pistol, and a dedicated angle of apply. If you are not experienced or don't feel it ... don't. We've tried a couple of times and while we did manage, it is much more hassle than worth hiring a specialist to fit it.
The problem - REAL problem - is that you need to make sure the "specialist" has a clue on how the screen goes fitted to YOUR specific vehicle! Too high or too low, too far out or too in, and you are condemned to a lifetime of wind noise.
Read the section in the workshop manual and make sure that - kindly - you get a feel if the "pro" has a clue about it.

We use a fitter with more than 25 yrs in the business, we've fitted with him more than 30 screens to the same make and model car, so we've been around in where it goes, and yet there is a screw up here and there still ... so beware!

My own P38 has an ill-fitted screen and I have access to a good replacement, but I won't touch until I find someone that knows how exactly it goes in.