I will try and have a test of this on the bench to see what it does, but I am assuming that it will still set the alarm off.

Marty, would you try this as well: if you lock the car - or the BeCM on the test bench and the alarm , then "open/unlock" but without the key but from the inside door latch, does the alarm goes off and the car is disarmed? Does it also if using the passenger latch? Obviously without superlocking .....
I would try myself, but my box just arrived and need to go pick it up from the courier ... :-)

I used to ... use wire brush and degreaser/cleaner before sending off our headliners until one of our upholsterers of choice took pity on me and told me I was only complicating my life (and his) messing up the surfaces.
He suggested instead to use a pressure washer (on low pressure) and just "spray away" the old foam.
It works wonders! And it does not ruin the surfaces at all ... I have never used a wire brush since.
Obviously this applies to sagging onces, where the foam has taken that "orangish" finish and peels/sticks to the fingers - and everywhere.

Sorry it was me who brought on the confusion on the "double lock", it was mostly a curiosity given the "dual image" of LHD and RHD vehicles and having here owners and users of both, sometimes there are interesting things that can be done.
And as for the W126 (nice ride!) comment above, I also believe in the added practicality of a second lock.

I doubt you'll find any car from about 1995 onwards that has the spurious, wasted, additional expense of a lock on both front doors... [snip] You've managed 3 years without the flimsy, emergency use only, linkage from falling apart? You've been extremely lucky.
Irony aside, I have been lucky indeed, as numerous strange grinding noises when locking/unlocking where always giving me a doomish sensation. But as I knew sooner or later would rebuild as much as possible anew, no big terror ... :-)
I managed to survive :-)
I do have 'twin locks' on my other cars though ('95, '97, '97, '01) and I honestly do use them occasionally. I do not mind turning a key, even in the XXI century. I am too old fashioned ....
Sorry Pierre for the extended OT.
Make some photos when you are doing the job!

Slightly offtopic but always cam-related -> how does the Piper Torquemax fare against the Kent H180 Sports Torque cam?

ahahahahahahahaha .... you're good!
My remote(s) have not worked in three years. Now I wait like a kid on Xmas eve the arrival of a certain box from UK ...

In any case I consider silly a car with a single access point ... never saw anything wrong with two locks on opposite handles :-)

Great! Promise to get going with that once I get restarted the beast

Have you solved? I got fairly confused but if you need help let me know and I will send you my VIN.
Might also be the chance to test the PM function lol!

Now it however comes at a price ... we might need to invoke Marty on this one!
Knowing what you claim to know (lol), if I get this right it exists the possibility to turn the P38 into a normal car, not the idiotic modern crap ... this means we might be able to fit TWO locks in each front handle like normal cars used to be?
And that BOTH front latches manage at least the central locking? Retaining of course the control function (left door for LHD, right door for RHD).
Let's see ....

Although I have never met him or his facility, I have only good words for them. They have always been extremely professional and kind.

Hoses are 6mm ID and, other than getting a replacement through the bulkhead and getting your hands onto the brake pedal switch (not a lot of room), simple enough to replace.

I can only add to what you have patient and wonderfully described, that the best way to sort most definitively the perishing hose issue is to get silicon hose - expensive, and unfortunately mostly "blue", but endures the heat perfectly.
Be careful when you mess around with the brake switch - it likes to break off easily, or in any case to become stupid and throw an error in the ABS/ETC system, requiring diagnostic software to reset.

I think someone good could weld it, but obviously that would void the warranty.
Need to find time to ask what's preventing them to offer one for Thor in their catalogue ...

To roman: I had same symptoms until I replaced radiator - even a britpart new is better than the old one with 1/3 of the fins covered in crud from the oil cooler(s). Too bad it took me too long to do it ...

The white spider clips are not fatal. Their job is to hold flush with the glass the lower windscreen metal finisher. If the glass was replaced at some time, most likely one or more will be missing anyway. You can guess by looking at the glass itself and check the label/stamp in one corner, what does it say?
From what I remember (is been a while) the screws in the A-pillars' covering go into some sort of plastic nut and not into any metal, so if you see them rusty replace them with other ones or just scrape them and spray them again.

Picture from StrangeRover has a much more interesting "RR" than a "Range Rover" but I do not dare ask ... :-)

To insert an image - only from a hosting site - you need to copy or insert the link to the image itself.

Yes, the white "spider" clips in the lower seal are a pain to refit and most likely are not all present. Go visit a breaker, doubt you can find them online (I searched and searched). The screws are normal stuff you can find in any DIY store, and the black plastic clips are available in most car "tuning" shops.
After two replacements in three years I am going the nylon mesh route next time (soon I hope).

I was looking at a RRS S/C with those gorgeous Brembos at the traffic light and remembering this topic ... looking at newer RRs might give some sources for upgraded brakes, but I think at the expense of not being able to mount 16" rims.

Same here, wasted two days on that. Did not manage to break yet, but it does make sinister creaking noises and to have a sunroof and don't use it ....

thanks but ... ugh. Too much .... will stick to the ebay maltese option :-)

Welcome ... I am of the "new breed", never been other there lol
Good another Thor ... we are mighty!

Hi there! Nice to have marine diesel powering the pub :-)
It is a fascinating world someday I hope to dwell in - as an user, lol!
I have never understood the logic behind the P38 section on rr.net, and happy not knowing ...

The A4 is a long term project. Its a 1.8T Quattro which i've got a 4.2L V8 to swap in
This is a project on its own, and not a small one. Might got very off topic in here ... many pro and many cons to that.
If you have the engine and it is running nice and fine and you crave only the throaty V8 sound go for it, but for me the 2.7TT is also a sensible proposition. Equal power, fantastic run-up if you tune it properly, fairly robust, and all in all equally expensive to run ... you'd miss the V8 roar but instead you get the whine/hiss of the turbos ... equally deadly :-)

I suspect also, i have a tendancy to want things "right" ...
Look, there is nothing wrong in wanting to have a RR project, or even a P38 project, but you need to make sure you are convinced of the basis of what you got: at the end of the day, you might want a P38 looking and running great and you will most likely do get to it - what I was questioning is whether it should be the one you have.
Mine is a basket case: car which I paid fairly expensive (should have been 2500 euro max and I shelled 4k for it), it had a lot of work done (gaskets, EAS, engine bits, shocks, exhaust) lots of service history but I did learn - painfully - that most of the work addressed "curing the symptoms, not curing the disease).
Nevertheless, it was the right combination for me (late 4.6 Thor, classic green and lightstone interior), and I made some initial work (brakes, fluids, plugs, etc.) and then went 100% use as I needed a daily commuter, a workhorse, a holiday car, and a 4x4). It behaved perfectly (never left me stranded although once it took me 45min to make 5km) for three years and 30K km until I knew it was time to stop it and get stuff sorted out ... the constant "mending" scheme had reached a limit.
Basket case I said .... it sips water and oil, cats to be replaced, exhaust "made" is a horrid concoction, TF chain slips, brake accumulator was a goner, shocks from shitpart were ... shit, sunroof not working, remotes not working, heated seats not working, trim broken here and there, leather frayed to pieces, fogs not working, headlamp washers not working, some dork fitted wrongly the windscreen so in certain situations howls curiously, HeVAC was not working (pressure sensor gone), blend motors stuck and flaps partially missing ... there is certainly more, but now I don't want to cry any more.
I certainly would have been better off buying a better car, at least a better cared for one. But I can't replace it with no other Range Rover. The Classic is a dinosaur, the L322 an oversized mongrel of a X5 and assorted junk. Later LR/JLR stuff has nothing in common with my view of the "breadth of capability" a Land Rover, or especially a Range Rover, must have. Perhaps if I was a rapper or a soccer player would suit me.
But mine was - and still is - straight, never hit, no rust body or chassis. This for me is the killer. You can fix everything but rust.

BMW stuff on the L322 is mostly junk, if the P38 is a money pit the L322 is a chasm.
The only decent V8 worth putting in a P38 is the M62 pre-Vanos (without the "TU" suffix), which also runs with the 5.2 Motronic. But is a revvy engine, don't think suits the RR ... and although fairly compact, not sure it has the height clearance issues that it needs to run properly with the front axle.
Plus, after my woes with one of my workhorses (a 2.8 V6 30V), and messing around with a host of 32 and 40 valves Audi V8s I don't want to hear anymore about multi-head, multi-valve engines ... screw that.

Aragorn, if you were to see the quality of the "local builders" here in Bulgaria you would be horrified ... no way I am using this alternative ... especially for cats :-)