rangerovers.pub
The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse.
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Mar 22 2016
20 May 2017 - 16:47

Notice how they don't show the boot, bet the gun cabinets aren't there, lol

20 May 2017 - 17:30

I saw this in the other 'similar items' area on eBay:

P38 Link

16grand, 12 k on the clock, at least mine with 145k has still got the battery cover, must put the price up by 20 quid, lol

20 May 2017 - 09:45

Mine sits really high on normal, think the idiot before me played around, I use manual and drop it to motorway.. another thing to do when laptop decides to recognise my lead,,

25 May 2017 - 11:09

Wow, seems as though where I live, not available for pick up or delivery. Tried different hand tools, and a new tool chest, If I wanna drive 50 miles to get anything I'm ok, lol

25 May 2017 - 17:48

RutlandRover wrote:

Do you live on the moon?!

The nearest store to my house is 10 miles away which isn't too bad but I do at least get delivery as an option.

One just down the road, obviously has a crap stock. When I tried others it was pick up only from Kent, I live in Essex, straight line mileage,, but my rangie don't like going across the Thames estuary without the bridge, lol

26 May 2017 - 05:59

The sensor is on the air box, the wiring should be a continuation from the maf, if it's gems, as for upper cylinder lubricant, it's not a standard part of an lpg conversion, it's an extra that I've looked at, but not come across any yet fitted to any of the p38s I've worked on

26 May 2017 - 06:05

I've rebuilt a few engines now, and never have a problem with air locks, I fill the engine from the top hose, then connect that to rad, I then lift the expansion bottle up as much as I can and crack the heater hoses, lpg regulator, then start the sucker up, might take another litre after that when the stat opens.
Any top up after that is minimal , and usually nothing needs bleeding again.

28 May 2017 - 01:18

If it's like mine, the pcb board is inside the sub, bolted to the magnet part of the speakers, so you need to split the box, a pita I know !

29 May 2017 - 10:49

You can use other speakers, just mount the pcb on the side and extend cables to speakers, the thing with second hand speakers if from a p38, they will be minimum 15yrs old !

29 May 2017 - 10:51

Sloth wrote:

If its a later P38, it'll have the two speakers on the top of the box, and either an amplifier inside, or a small black box on the outside (like a door amp).

If you've got a later one with the two speakers, once the screws are out from each speaker, you should be able to prise each speaker up and out - its probably got some sticky foam rings under the rim of each one that are quite well stuck in there. But they will come out.

The early ones have a single speaker mounted internally, with an amplifier on the outside.

I think there's 2 types, (with twin speakers) as with mine with the HK system, the amp is mounted to the bottom of the speakers, so as said, it's a complete removal of sub , then split the casing, great idea or wot , lol

29 May 2017 - 18:01

Does it use the same screen set up as the old one ? As my screen hasn't changed and I've still not got postcode option when inputting data

23 June 2017 - 19:45

If it's from island4x4, I often fight with them, it's a put all the bolts in by a few threads, you have to wiggle the inlet before you can get all the bolts, you'd think copying a gasket would be easy,, obviously not !..

05 June 2017 - 18:29

Gems are a pita to do the torque converter bolts, a bloody great plate removed, but only 2 points you can get at, I'd rather do a Thor through the hole any day, I normally mark the front pulley after I've got first one lined up at 3.6 & 9. Then even alone it's easier to do. Glad your up and running

08 June 2017 - 20:39

Only time I had fuel go off, was my first motorbike, my dad took it off me cos I was only 15, 3 months later went to start it, nothing, fresh petrol and it went, but I'm sure fuels will have more additives now than near on 40 years ago, lol

09 June 2017 - 23:06

When you look at it Clive, how often do you really want, or need to be underneath. If you've done fluid changes, axles, gearbox, you don't need to go underneath for a while. I've got 10 yrs on you, and I don't like being under them now, I know I'm gonna pay the price the next day,,

12 June 2017 - 13:01

Let me have a dig in my shed, think I've got one you can pinch the motor out of.. or I will remove and send it,, wish me luck, I'm going in,, lol

Update, I made it out the shed with 2 r/h side mirrors, 6 wire I think, your welcome to either

13 June 2017 - 12:35

I remember sticking the leads through a rubber glove then stretching it over the dizzy cap on a mini,, never got wet after that 👍

13 June 2017 - 13:40

Orangebean wrote:

no10chris wrote:

I remember sticking the leads through a rubber glove then stretching it over the dizzy cap on a mini,, never got wet after that 👍


That was one of the better fixes Chris. Always looked a bit weird with a bright yellow Marigold stuck on the front of the motor though.
I was impressed that they designed the A Series with the same number of ht leads as fingers in a glove. It's as if they knew...

Better than that silly cover they designed,, my mum was pissed when one of her marigolds went missing,, I've never told her to this day.

14 June 2017 - 17:50

Since I bought my car , 2 years ago. I've had a atf leak from the front, never drastic, just a dusting on bottom rad cover, so today I decided to find out why.
R/H nut came undone easy, o ring looked ok, on to the L/H side, a different story , didn't want to move, covered in plusgas and left to soak in.
Got the nut to move, but hey ho, it stripped every bit of thread off the rad. So apart from that I go inspecting the o ring, what o ring ? There isn't one fitted, might explain why it was yanked up so tight,, why do people mess with things they know nothing about ?

17 June 2017 - 15:18

Orangebean wrote:

Something like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gunson-Tools-UK-BEST-G4095-Eezi-Lap-Oscillating-Valve-Lapper-Tool-/181507212901?
I use a tight fitting short bit of fuel hose over the collet end of the valve with a stud at other end of hose into battery drill chuck. With a combination of a greasy finger pushing on valve head and pulsing the drill it gives pretty good results, not oscillating though so purists would object. When tested after with engineers blue gives a good consistent seat though.

That's pretty much how I do mine too, don't think my hands would work with a twizzle stick anymore, hooray for battery drivers,,