The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse.
1112 posts
Mar 22 2016
29 May 2017 - 18:01

Does it use the same screen set up as the old one ? As my screen hasn't changed and I've still not got postcode option when inputting data

23 June 2017 - 19:45

If it's from island4x4, I often fight with them, it's a put all the bolts in by a few threads, you have to wiggle the inlet before you can get all the bolts, you'd think copying a gasket would be easy,, obviously not !..

05 June 2017 - 18:29

Gems are a pita to do the torque converter bolts, a bloody great plate removed, but only 2 points you can get at, I'd rather do a Thor through the hole any day, I normally mark the front pulley after I've got first one lined up at 3.6 & 9. Then even alone it's easier to do. Glad your up and running

08 June 2017 - 20:39

Only time I had fuel go off, was my first motorbike, my dad took it off me cos I was only 15, 3 months later went to start it, nothing, fresh petrol and it went, but I'm sure fuels will have more additives now than near on 40 years ago, lol

09 June 2017 - 23:06

When you look at it Clive, how often do you really want, or need to be underneath. If you've done fluid changes, axles, gearbox, you don't need to go underneath for a while. I've got 10 yrs on you, and I don't like being under them now, I know I'm gonna pay the price the next day,,

12 June 2017 - 13:01

Let me have a dig in my shed, think I've got one you can pinch the motor out of.. or I will remove and send it,, wish me luck, I'm going in,, lol

Update, I made it out the shed with 2 r/h side mirrors, 6 wire I think, your welcome to either

13 June 2017 - 12:35

I remember sticking the leads through a rubber glove then stretching it over the dizzy cap on a mini,, never got wet after that 👍

13 June 2017 - 13:40

Orangebean wrote:

no10chris wrote:

I remember sticking the leads through a rubber glove then stretching it over the dizzy cap on a mini,, never got wet after that 👍

That was one of the better fixes Chris. Always looked a bit weird with a bright yellow Marigold stuck on the front of the motor though.
I was impressed that they designed the A Series with the same number of ht leads as fingers in a glove. It's as if they knew...

Better than that silly cover they designed,, my mum was pissed when one of her marigolds went missing,, I've never told her to this day.

14 June 2017 - 17:50

Since I bought my car , 2 years ago. I've had a atf leak from the front, never drastic, just a dusting on bottom rad cover, so today I decided to find out why.
R/H nut came undone easy, o ring looked ok, on to the L/H side, a different story , didn't want to move, covered in plusgas and left to soak in.
Got the nut to move, but hey ho, it stripped every bit of thread off the rad. So apart from that I go inspecting the o ring, what o ring ? There isn't one fitted, might explain why it was yanked up so tight,, why do people mess with things they know nothing about ?

17 June 2017 - 15:18

Orangebean wrote:

Something like this?
I use a tight fitting short bit of fuel hose over the collet end of the valve with a stud at other end of hose into battery drill chuck. With a combination of a greasy finger pushing on valve head and pulsing the drill it gives pretty good results, not oscillating though so purists would object. When tested after with engineers blue gives a good consistent seat though.

That's pretty much how I do mine too, don't think my hands would work with a twizzle stick anymore, hooray for battery drivers,,

23 June 2017 - 09:25

When my dse belt went, it did exactly the same. Shredded into spaghetti strands and wrapped itself round every pulley it could find. No reason for it to go, but hey, it's a p38 !

21 June 2017 - 01:14

blueplasticsoulman wrote:

What's different on a vogue SE than a vogue?

The one at my local scrap yard looks the same as mine other than the bizarre green walnut

The price,, 😂

21 June 2017 - 22:23

Gilbertd wrote:

For me the ideal would be a P38 but with the 295 bhp from the 4.4 BMW lump fitted to the pre-2005 L322. I use my car predominately for long distance journeys around Europe (France 3 times and Holland once, clocking up 4,500 miles in the last 5 weeks). I want something that is going to get me there and the L322 has far too many seemingly insignificant things that can stop the car. At least with a P38, if the cooling system is kept in good order, any faults can be either ignored as they don't stop the car from being used or dealt with at the roadside.

Maybe that needs to be a plan, I'm sure I can find a p38, the BMW engine is readily available for little money,, the main problem seems to be maintenance based, the chains stretch, the breathers collapsing, but otherwise it's a good engine, let me finish playing with mine, then were have a chat..

22 June 2017 - 11:56

I can't see it being a problem, as richard says, they both use Bosch system, the head ache will be engine to gearbox. Will have to get an adapter made, or see if I can get hold of a l322 bell housing. Looks like I'm gonna have a project on the go very soon,, should keep me outta trouble for a while,, lol

24 June 2017 - 15:02

Re the bugger bolt, there's 2 ways do do it,

  1. Remove inner arch, you now have full access with a 3/8 socket and Flexi.
  2. Cut one of the bolts down, it then allows you to get the only extension piece you have to fit !
    I use both methods, depending on if I can get mudflaps off, which do I prefer, method 1.
24 June 2017 - 04:37

The fact you've got corrosion in the passenger footwell wiring, you can guarantee the drivers side will be the same, I had it on a dse, touched the wires and they came off the connector ( that was fun) , I don't know if both sides are connected ( Marty will know) but, once I'd done both sides I had no electrical gremlins till I sold it on,, it read the obd socket which it had never done before,,

26 June 2017 - 21:13

As said, avoid shit part poly bushes ( i.e. Yellow ones) .
Mine had them when I bought it, the panard bushes were shot within a year, either buy a decent set, or replace with OEM bushes

27 June 2017 - 01:43

I'm thinking horrid thoughts, like flex plate.. that's a hard one to pin point, let us know if it's still there from start, or if it's after another lead foot issue.
You could pop the inspection cover off the gearbox while your under there and inspect the flex plate, or start it up and have a good listen.

28 June 2017 - 22:33

Basically, your looking at 8 & 10 mm bolts and nuts, 12 & 13 mm spanners for throttle / cruise cables, plenum is 10 mm to undo x6, there could be one bolt on side ( rh to car) holding coolant pipes. on the coil if still original there 8mm, there's 4, 2 at the top to plenum, bottom 2 either side.
The only coolant hoses you need to remove are the throttle body heater, a few small pegs you can plug them,

Edit, when you undo the top 2 bolts on the coil, you can carefully give it a lever back and you can remove the plenum, but I advise to try get them all out first, if you lock bonnet fully open it's much easier,, you pop struts off ( beware its heavy) when bonnet it back by the screen, look at inside of hinges, you see fold down clips it lock into

29 June 2017 - 17:33

I'm sure it's been mentioned somewhere, but anyone know the size of the o-rings for the heater matrix, took my seats out to repair the heater elements and found a wet carpet, suppose it had to happen at some point, lol,