I have a 19” with good tyre £25, it’s the type with dimples round the edge, don’t ask me to put a picture, I gave up trying that a long time ago 😂🤣
Wheels have sold
leolito wrote:
Chris sorry, I have not received anything :(
Sorry for late posting, some health issues lately :(
I hope soon to get up to speed!
I’m the same, getting old stinks, lol, I’ll resend message private
Just some extras, I’ve got a set of 18” alloys, from a L322, nice condition, tyres have seen better days, £40,, I’m slowly getting to the back of the garage where all my goodies are stored 🙈
leolito wrote:
I've sent a message but probably did not get to you, let me know for the nano
about parts ... why don't make a list? or eventually, if too cumbersome, just snap a couple pics of whatever there is, and we car sort it out from here :-)
I did send a private message
Chrisp38 wrote:
The kit needed to do the timing chains on the diesel? Not the pump dti, got that.
Afraid I didn’t get involved with timing the diesels, was mainly heads and ball joints on 4.0 & 4.6
Once I’m going through the garage I’ll sort it out for you, your welcome to it, no good to me,,
Hi guys, it’s come to the time where my p38 is going up for sale, ( 4 large dogs, I’ve bought a van ) so bits and bobs are also going up for grabs, I have a EAS kicker and a nanocom evo, the nano is open to EDC and MOTRONIC, if anyone is interested make me an offer for either before I stick them on eBay, I’ll have lots of parts to list, but I’ll give options here first as I sort bits out, drop me a message with offers
Thanks,
jacckk wrote:
The manual says to turn back one quarter of a turn to re-engage.
So my switch pack went up the wall, I closed the sunroof with the key, now I’ve repaired the switch pack it sounds like the motor isn’t engaging the gears, have I done something wrong, do I have to wind it back with the key to engage again ?
Anyone know anywhere that might have some old stock, in there wonder LR have discontinued fuse boxes for a Thor 🙈
If I remember correctly, there possibly lead , I’ll pull one off and have a look, would be easy enough to make new tips on the nrv’s, being a plumber I’m ok working with lead, did my apprenticeship back in the days when we worked with lead,, I could easily make a mould if it is the case and retail the nrv’s
I know one of them is good, as it’s a rebuilt one from my car, the other 2 I haven’t tried, 2 are in the eas box with lids and dryer,, think I’ll just advertise as spares or repair, having a clear out, got 4 cylinder heads, various brackets, sumps, front cover, rocker covers, the list is growing every time I go in the garage 😂🤣
Morat wrote:
Probably best to just swap it into your P38 I'd guess.
How much is a working one worth? I'm getting to the stage where I'd like on on the car and one to rebuild. The issue is NRVs because I can't find them anywhere.
When you checked under the top strip, did you check end of roof rails, there’s a bit of sealant that goes hard over the years, if it’s hard there could be a gap behind you can’t see
So today I go up in the loft and come across 3 valve blocks 🙈. How hard is it to test them before I put them up for sale, or do I just sell sold as seen, I’m pretty sure they all work, as I wouldn’t of bought any that weren’t working
dave3d wrote:
30306 taper bearing
It was romanrob
Radius Arm Tool
I also bought one but have not had the need to use it yet. It is somewhere in the garage.
I have just seem romanrob's video explaining how it works. I forgot about that.
Cheers Dave, I have done them before using the bearing taper, 12 mm studding and pieces big enough to pull it through
Does anyone remember which bearing race could be used to squeeze the bushes in
It’s been a while since I last used my rangie, I’ve just put a new O2 sensor as I recall one wasn’t working, I’ll be buggered if I can find the settings on nano to check, could someone run me through it,, tia