I actually managed to get a spare blade cut at stimpsons, I got a blank key on eBay, filed it to the correct width, let them loose on the blade, it’s not perfect, but I know if I lock mine in I can open it, glad you got in.
For the Linley ?. Aren’t they piano black, just get yours resprayed, at least they’d be matching and like new, I think OB sprayed some with plasticoat and they looked terrific.
Stimpsons rules are they’re not allowed to cut third party keys, luckily enough the guy in mine doesn’t agree with them,, a must is the file down and mark which way round, the blanks are near, but not that near,, they didn’t use anything special, so many keys are like ours nowadays
I’ve squeezed 88 litres in mine, I always thought expansion was 10% of tank ?
So I presumed I had a 100ltr tank, must admit it was only once I got that amount in, most probably a dodgy pump.
I wish karma on the scum bags, nothing of worth to them, but a head ache to you.
I’ll also see what I can find..
Sounds good, 3 coats is most probably more than the base coat needs, I suspect they know how rare this car is and want to make sure it’s a pukka job, clear coat, 3 is enough, you can put 1 to infinity, 3 will give good protection and a nice finish when then flat and polish.
I’m up for that
Hopefully marks missus is driving it round, I think he had the badge made if I remember correctly.
I did pour a kettle of water down it, all it did was freeze the door shut, lol, I’ll shoot some cleaner in it, it did it once before but siuddenly let go on it’s own..
After my Hanook battery suddenly with no warning died on me, I stuck a new one in, I haven’t used the car for 4 days so thought as it’s covered in ice I’ll fire it up, it’s midnight , I opened the door and it fired straight away, went to shut the door and the frigging lock must be frozen, it won’t latch, I presume it’s full of crap,
Has anyone else encountered this ? If so do I remove the latch and clean, or just shoot a can of brake cleaner into it, I’ve ratchet strapped the front doors together, so it’s secure till later when it’s light.
How I see Black Friday, they give the other half more staff discount this weekend, which equates to her bringing more crap home, time to hide her cards, lol
Saw a post on FB, frickley off road center, looks like could be a fun day out sometime next year.
Unless of course someone knows of others..
Just had a look at the avalanche site, same sort of thing, £200 hires the site for the day, lots of different sections, some winch only, might be something for the future, let’s have some input from people..
I also looked at Europe , but a couple of grand pp seems a bit steep.
What a great read, looks like yours is going to be the one in the best condition, it certainly got the correct owner
7hrs or 45 minutes, sounds like the rear rh exhaust manifold bolt on a p38, lol.
I remember the first set of heads I did on one of mine, I was determined to get all the heat shield bolts, took 2 days, not any more, 20 minutes both sides
In reality, the heat shields only need the 2 bolts on the brass studs, they don’t rattle, and heat is deflected away from the ht leads, I looked at redoing with rivnuts, but never got round to it, ..
As long as you keep them up where they are or higher you should be ok, it’s only if they fall down your start leaking fluid, re pump I don’t know, soz
The pipes normally bolted to the head, 8 mm head bolt, as said they are gearbox breathers
I would think trying to get the fan off after a pump is removed would be a right pain, it needs to come off to swap the pulley over as well , I bought a spinner and holding tool for around a tender on eBay, only ever needed the holding tool once though, a good slap with a hammer always loosens them
The spanner does have an offset in it to fit snugly over the nut, I’ve not yet had one that hasn’t come off the hammer way.