So I found out that the P.O. fitted shitpart poly bushes to my radius arms, I’m looking at powerflow ( purple)
To replace them, and maybe the panhard aswell, anyone used these ?
So the past few weeks I’ve had a problem that I’m chasing, starts fine, runs fine till I’m in 4th gear, say at 40-50 mph, it then acts like it’s a dropped a few cylinders, knock it into neutral, give it a few throttles and it goes back on eight, yesterday it did it but stalled, only the once, normally it will just go really low and I can catch it.
Changed plugs, TPS, MAF, gonna swap CPS today, fuel pump is 18 months old, so I don’t think it’s that,
My initial thought was the maf, maybe this is why my lpg is acting up, any ideas appreciated, plugging in diagnostics today to see if any stored faults.
I’ve got a gems that I’ve done the heads on, it ticks over for hours ok, but directly it's out under load it will overheat, I’ve changed rad, stat, repaired leaking Orings and pipes, checked water pump, flushed the system twice, driving me nuts. I’m thinking there’s a problem with the block.
I’m wondering if I can put a Thor short engine with flywheel and cps , I can’t see why not, maybe a few wire swaps to cps. Anyone done this before.
Also will a 4.0 ecu run a 4.6 ? Again I can’t see why not as only stroked, same size bores ect.
Hi guys, haven't driven the rangie for a few weeks, but the other half has been using her, she informs me that if she hits a speed bump to quick , gearbox fault flashs up on dash and gearbox goes into limp mode. Turn off and restart it's ok, I'm thinking a loose connection somewhere?
Answers on a postcard please !
So obviously I’ve upset mine after giving it a hoover inside, always been reliable as of the past 18-24 months, started first turn, but today it’s just cranking, plugged in the nano, no faults stored, looks like I know what I’m doing today ( as if I haven’t got enough going on) 🤬
Hi everyone, I've seen that a few people swop the 4.6 for a 6.0. I'm thinking about doing the same, was wondering where these engines come from, i know it's from one of the American car suppliers, just not sure which. Also has anyone here done it ? If so is it a headache to do, or shall I just stick with my Thor 4.6.. You opinion would be appreciated,
Can someone explain to me the difference between 2 pin and 4 pin axle ! Thanks
Looking at grabbing a second hand front diff, I'm a bit worried about buying the wrong one, some adverts just say front diff (2 pin). Others are saying 24 spline ! Anyone have any idea what I should be looking for,, thanks
So yesterday I decided to change all the front ball joints and the front diff ( is that a heavy sob, or am I getting old) started on the lhs, took me 3.5 hours to get old out, new in, rhs, took me 40 minutes to do the same, once you've Sussed them out there not too bad. So nice to not hear the diff whine, and no Clunk when I turn the steering,, paying the price today with arthritis, lol, I won't let it beat me,,,
Hi guys, so yesterday I went down my favourite rangie breakers, was looking for an exhaust system.
Picked up a stainless system, front to back with these stainless hi flow cats. My question is, has anyone else got them, or tried them. They seem to cost mega bucks, I got front to back for £180, which obviously is a bargain, your opinions are appreciated
Here we go, did a set of head gaskets on a 99 4.0, the poor guy has only driven it 4 miles since his son brought it home after purchase. When he drove it the head gasket went , popping the top hose. So I started it up, wasn't happy with the throttle response, very sluggish, like an old diesel. Left it running 30 minutes, hoses all hot, no pressure, I then notice a whoosh of smoke from l/h side, then again, I dived underneath, to find the heat shield above the left cat, looks like I've sat there with a blow torch, circle of orange glowing metal, would a blocked cat cause this ? Hmmm , I'm not sure as it was so localised, I managed to cool it. Was worried about the carpet catching fire if it's that hot,, any opinions would be appreciated on this one,, (apart from setting fire to it, lol, it's trying that on its own)
Last week, after7 months of running quite nicely, engine decided to knock for a few seconds on start up. Pulled it out last Wednesday and swapped over cranks with a spare I had, took a while to get the crank to turn, as every time I went to second torque, main or big, the engine locked, checked shells against crank for size, all ok. Built engine up, was tighter than I would of liked. Fitted back, started up nicely, now 70 miles on the same thing. Looks like at some point the blocks been cooked and has twisted 😟 So looks like engine out again in a few weeks and into the machine shop, possibly have top hats at the same time funds allowing ! So much for thinking I might have a quite year, lol, changing front diff and top and bottom ball joints this week, won't be long and bloody thing will have been completely rebuilt .. The joys of P38 ownership,, lol
Hi guys, hope your all well, I'm continuing my fight to find the clunk I have when turning the steering,, island4x4 seem to list a shitpart replacement, was wondering if anyone has used one yet. I'm not happy using anything with that brand name. It's the last thing on the front to change, everything else has been swapped, never want to do another set of bearings, they were fun, didn't wanna come out,, a lot of heat and 30 ton press persuaded them, lol,, your opinions would be appreciated..
Anyone know the size of the injector o rings, it's a 97 gems, black injectors, thanks
Ok, my on going fight to find the clunk when I turn the steering.. Looks like I might of finally solved the problem, had the car on ramp and floor but couldn't find the clunk, my stepdad walks in and first thing he says upon hearing the clunk, is,,, your chassis has a crack in it, I said don't be stupid.. But as per usual he's was right ( you can grow to not like people, lol) seems that the chassis doesn't like my 20" Khan wheels, the extra pressure of turning the wheels when not moving put a nice crack down the chassis between the steering box mountings, so in a few weeks time when I do the engine change, I'm gonna drop the steering box and get the mig out,,, oh joy !,, don't think I could ever sell this rig, I'd have an advert like a book the amount that's gone into getting it right,, so everyone this is a sign to look out for, also advice of don't change your wheels,,
I've changed my abs pump as fairy lights were taking an age to go out want to do a fluid flush, but I'm on my own. Can I use an easy bleed on these systems ? ( bottle to wheel type)
Since I bought my car , 2 years ago. I've had a atf leak from the front, never drastic, just a dusting on bottom rad cover, so today I decided to find out why.
R/H nut came undone easy, o ring looked ok, on to the L/H side, a different story , didn't want to move, covered in plusgas and left to soak in.
Got the nut to move, but hey ho, it stripped every bit of thread off the rad. So apart from that I go inspecting the o ring, what o ring ? There isn't one fitted, might explain why it was yanked up so tight,, why do people mess with things they know nothing about ?
I'm sure it's been mentioned somewhere, but anyone know the size of the o-rings for the heater matrix, took my seats out to repair the heater elements and found a wet carpet, suppose it had to happen at some point, lol,
Here we go again ( this car is testing my patience) ..
Seems as though I have a whine from the gearbox, I'm thinking it's the transfer box as that seems to be the norm,, my question is, is it normally the viscous that go ?
If so has anyone ever replaced the bearings in one ?
This is the last thing I'm doing on this car, next problem it goes up for sale.
I've got a engine that is so quiet, the lpg injectors are noisier,
suspension that never sags,
everything works as should, ( even the heated seats)
I've done so much and still it wants to throw other problems at me,
i think this p38 should have an exorcism or something, it's definitely possessed by the p38 gremlin,,
Just done heads on a 4.6, noticed that the gear shift was flashing, just want to confirm my diagnosis which is xyz switch is knackered, couldn’t actually get the gear shift into low to try and shock it, apparently it’s been like it a while and drives ok, so I’m thinking the xyz has moved but not fully.
Answers on a postcard please