rangerovers.pub
The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse.
Member
offline
1194 posts
Mar 22 2016
08 May 2016 - 04:14

Fingers crossed it hasn't had becm changed, just causes problems,, if you note the becm number surely LR would be able to check if it's the original ?

06 May 2016 - 04:56

What bugs me with him, is he goes so far off track, so what that's he's bought a Porsche for his son, it's a land rover forum, not bloody Porsche !

08 May 2016 - 07:14

Might be wrong, but seem to remember when I did the heads on my gems, I had to leave key in ignition , pos 11

08 May 2016 - 07:15

Oops, pos 2 for 20 mins,

15 October 2016 - 06:46

Today is D-day, I'll keep an eye out at 8.01pm for the fireworks, good luck, hope you win the bid 😁

17 May 2016 - 12:24

no10chris wrote:

Pretty sure I've got 2 sub woofer speakers, know one of them has split, not sure about the other till I hop in the loft, your welcome to them if you want to go down the repair route

Ok, popped up to loft, no numbers on speakers, only on the cones themselves
42-08138XXX002
00 097

The amp inside mine also is fixed to the magnets,, hope this helps you out

03 July 2016 - 07:57

Cheers Martin,, just spent 20 mins with jet washer removing half of Swindon from under my car, lol, just having a cuppa then back out to give another go,, got home 10.30. M25 closed, north circ at a standstill, grrrrr,, hope things go well today,,

17 May 2016 - 12:20

Sloth wrote:

Hmm, next time you're up there, would you mind taking a note of the model number? That way we can at least check if they are the same as the door speakers.

I think I've settled on actually building a custom enclosure for a 10" sub. Proper 6.5" subs are too pricey over here for my liking. My next problem is actually the number of cables I now have connected to my positive battery post. I have the starter, alternator, fusebox, LPG ecu, and my RL7 blower feed. I need to add a feed for this amplifier, and I want an anderson connector on the front of the car for jump leads... I think I'm going to need a bus bar of some kind at this rate, perhaps on the back of the GEMS/LPG ECU housing if I have room.

16 May 2016 - 05:55

Pretty sure I've got 2 sub woofer speakers, know one of them has split, not sure about the other till I hop in the loft, your welcome to them if you want to go down the repair route

18 May 2016 - 12:53

Sloth wrote:

Thanks! Very odd. I'm pretty sure mine had labels on the rear of the magnets, but it was the external amp version.

I wonder if the version that had the sub mounted on the back of the speakers is different - I've not come across one yet in person, only pictures. But the amp does look quite a bit bigger, whereas mine is physically the same dimensions as a door amp.

Going to go with the custom route next month I think either way.

Mine is a 2000, so quite possible it's different, everything that's gone wrong, I have 2 choices, never been the cheaper one yet, lol

25 May 2016 - 13:50

I would change the 5 pin relay for a four pin, that way self levelling won't start till you start the car. Mine did exactly the same as yours when I got out, obviously weight in the car has changed. When I took the engine out for a rebuild, connected battery to open the boot, again it all self adjusted. That's when I swapped to 4 pin. I know mine has no leaks in bags or valve block, sounds like the p38 poltergeist

31 May 2016 - 06:52

Looking at grabbing a second hand front diff, I'm a bit worried about buying the wrong one, some adverts just say front diff (2 pin). Others are saying 24 spline ! Anyone have any idea what I should be looking for,, thanks

31 May 2016 - 13:13

Thanks guys, will go ahead and order it, the whine is driving me nuts

03 July 2016 - 09:37

First thought is set fire to it, it's a focus,,,, on a serious note, check the egr valve, they can cause the smoke,, check engine breathers and clean the maf. Upon searching seems that a lot have the expanding pipe syndrome ! Make sure pipe connections are well sealed, 1 guy said remove pipe, clean and spray hairspray inside at both ends where it connects to inter cooler etc

01 June 2016 - 06:35

MARY ? Is there something we're not being told, lmao

05 June 2016 - 23:17

Last week, after7 months of running quite nicely, engine decided to knock for a few seconds on start up. Pulled it out last Wednesday and swapped over cranks with a spare I had, took a while to get the crank to turn, as every time I went to second torque, main or big, the engine locked, checked shells against crank for size, all ok. Built engine up, was tighter than I would of liked. Fitted back, started up nicely, now 70 miles on the same thing. Looks like at some point the blocks been cooked and has twisted 😟 So looks like engine out again in a few weeks and into the machine shop, possibly have top hats at the same time funds allowing ! So much for thinking I might have a quite year, lol, changing front diff and top and bottom ball joints this week, won't be long and bloody thing will have been completely rebuilt .. The joys of P38 ownership,, lol

06 June 2016 - 14:32

you name it, I did it, took best part of 12 hours to get the engine as loose as I could, on the first main, 2nd torque, it locked, did the same for every shell, I treble measured the shells, rang engineers who confirmed was a +10 regrind, right shells, but tight as hell, got the mains turning reasonable, it was the con rods that really stiffened it up, I pulled them all out again, did what I could to check there were straight, lightly sanded with 1400. It was a gamble as I knew it was reasonably tight, but funds didn't allow more work at the time. So end of this month out it comes again, me swearing who did these bolts up ? It was me ! Lol, blocks getting machined , I'm letting the engine shop install it this time,crank etc, , I'm getting to old for this, plus bonus of arthritis doesn't help

14 June 2016 - 05:57

Must admit, on my last head job, I put the heat shields etc on before installing, pushed bolts through, sat heads on timber, started bolting down, replaced to slightly slimmer timber, etc etc, fed up with fighting with that r/h back manifold bolt, lol.. As Gilbert says, hardest job is the heat shields, I replaced the bolts for stainless Allen key bolts,, hopefully if I have to remove again should be easy

09 June 2016 - 13:08

I'd have a go at making something, then using the transfer effect walnut over whatever mounting you make to blend it in.. I've played with the transfer, if you take your time and follow instructions, can come out really good ! Maybe go down the breakers yard ang grab a cheap centre dash to play with,,

18 June 2016 - 22:27

Wow, I'm impressed you got them undone with a 3/8 drive, I use a 27 " breaker bar to crack them, wouldn't dream of anything but 1/2 drive, there tight for sure,, good luck with the 1 bolt that's left