rangerovers.pub
The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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You do love a challenge,, 🤣😂🤣

Now it’s dry, it’s time to get the hose out and start wetting certain areas, should be traceable now your all dry

I’m with the others, it takes a while but it will go out, I was exactly the same when I rebuilt my engine on start up,, as for could you have put the gears back in wrong, it’s highly unlikely, as long as you tightened up the screws on the plate that holds it in you should be fine,, fire it up and hold your breathe,, it will go out before you can’t breathe

I still use 20/50 mineral oil, although it’s getting harder to find unless I buy online, synthetic wasn’t around when these engines were designed,, so for now I’ll stick with it..

Your need a soldering iron, but they are easy to change, the other option which is dearer, is buy
a replacement regulator, but only a genuine Bosch,, there around the £50 mark,, I’d stick with changing the brushes,, beware, it’s a dirty job with all the carbon dust, wear gloves

I love my sport button, seen off many a boy racer with there fart pop exhausts away from the lights,, It will not change gear till much higher revs, if your taking the roads you described, youve 2 options, like Marshall says , 3rd gear, or poke the button

Normally it’s just the brushes in the regulator that go, changed mine 5 yrs ago,, cost a fiver

Happy new year to all

donmacn wrote:

This is the picture I mentioned above. It's just something I lifted off the web somewhere because it was supposed to be a 'common P38 issue'. I don't actually think it will be that common because otherwise there would be loads of pics of this - and I could only find this one.

It was something we wasn’t aware of till our departed friend OB found it, can’t remember wether or not he had that issue, but since then I’ve seen plenty of posts about the sealant failing there,, would hurt to stick a bit of sealant there for piece of mind.
The location you described your leak I would of said it’s that

It normally soaks the roof lining around the visors,, I think it pulls off from memory,, was 10 plus years ago I had screen done

Under the top screen trim, at the end of the roof rail there is a hole, it was sealed with sealant 20 yrs ago when it left the factory, it needs redoing by the sounds of it

I check everything through trustpilot these days, I’m surprised that there still in business, obviously complete muppets, so many bad reviews..
Another for the warning list..

Merry Christmas to everyone, I’m locked down also, plenty of drink, but unfortunately I don’t drink, so the other half will have a good time, lol,,
Hopefully get my heap up and running next year, just lost interest in it at the minute..

Has anyone sussed it on a iPad yet, think once I managed, but don’t know how, lol

From ad on FB

2002 Land Rover Range Rover · Suv · Driven 90,000 miles

Selling my fully sorted 2002 P38 Borrego with 90K miles in unparalleled condition. Fully sorted over the past 3 years of ownership. The is a true turn key and go P38. EVERYTHING functions as it should. This is for a true P38 collector who wants a rare model. Only 100 were ever made. I am asking $26,900 USD with little room to negotiate. Here is what has been done in my ownership by a top Rover specialist in Flemington, NJ:

August 2017:
New rear suspension air bags
New rear suspension height sensors
New fuse block and relays
New passenger side HVAC blower motor
Rebuilt HVAC screen
New ABS accumulator
Pre-owned hurricane wheels installed
New headliner
New wipers
New cabin filters
New tires
New fluids
New main accessory belt, idler pulleys and tensioner
AC charge

September 2017:
New paint, bare metal re-spray - about 80% of truck
Replace side moldings

October 2017:
New EAS compressor
Rebuilt EAS valve block
Clear sunroof drains
Seal cabin filter case to bulkhead
New glove box do

I had to drill my front ones out as the screws were knackered, had as you describe fixing them in position, unfortunately I haven’t had the pleasure of doing the rear ones yet

You can pop the top and bottom off the rads, although a PIA bending all the stainless steel tabs up, I couldn’t find anything to hand at the time that would of gone through the fins, but to be honest I don’t think I would of got through any of them, I had fixed a hose to the bottom pipe , turned on and nothing came out the top, lol

1Steven wrote:

Its all in the packaging.

🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂

Sam, Your asking for trouble putting any rad products in a p38, I’ve taken rads out that we’re totally blocked, they don’t have the biggest of water ways,

I use linseed oil on the bumpers, takes a few coats, which only takes minutes, lasts months, nice and black , haven’t tried it on the other trims, but can’t see why it wouldn’t work