Hi guys, haven't driven the rangie for a few weeks, but the other half has been using her, she informs me that if she hits a speed bump to quick , gearbox fault flashs up on dash and gearbox goes into limp mode. Turn off and restart it's ok, I'm thinking a loose connection somewhere?
Answers on a postcard please !

Happy new year to all, wishing you all a p38 problem free year..

Hi all, anyone in sussex with a faultmate or nano to enter an eka code, I've just done heads on a rig, it locked out, had that sorted, bugger me, he takes battery lead off in case it drains,, ffs
Forgot to say, it's a gems, needs eka code put in, the door lock was demolished due to it jamming in super lock,,

Anyone know the size of the injector o rings, it's a 97 gems, black injectors, thanks

I'm doing the heads on a totally butchered p38 1997 4.6. The battery went flat on the guy, since then front doors are superlocked, managed to get rear quarter out and gain access. It's not taking eka code from the door, in fact doesn't seem to be doing much, I've got engine disabled up on the dash, does this sound like a resync or is nanocom or faultmate needed, I've not had to deal with locks much so not that up on them, it's a pain as it's in Sussex so don't wanna get the engine right but can't start the bloody thing ( when I say it's butchered, l322 conversion, coils, air con pipes cut, heat shields missing, silicon everywhere, inner arches butchered. Mixture of different bolts of varying sizes, It goes on and on,,)

Here we go, did a set of head gaskets on a 99 4.0, the poor guy has only driven it 4 miles since his son brought it home after purchase. When he drove it the head gasket went , popping the top hose. So I started it up, wasn't happy with the throttle response, very sluggish, like an old diesel. Left it running 30 minutes, hoses all hot, no pressure, I then notice a whoosh of smoke from l/h side, then again, I dived underneath, to find the heat shield above the left cat, looks like I've sat there with a blow torch, circle of orange glowing metal, would a blocked cat cause this ? Hmmm , I'm not sure as it was so localised, I managed to cool it. Was worried about the carpet catching fire if it's that hot,, any opinions would be appreciated on this one,, (apart from setting fire to it, lol, it's trying that on its own)

Hi guys, so yesterday I went down my favourite rangie breakers, was looking for an exhaust system.
Picked up a stainless system, front to back with these stainless hi flow cats. My question is, has anyone else got them, or tried them. They seem to cost mega bucks, I got front to back for £180, which obviously is a bargain, your opinions are appreciated

Ok, my on going fight to find the clunk when I turn the steering.. Looks like I might of finally solved the problem, had the car on ramp and floor but couldn't find the clunk, my stepdad walks in and first thing he says upon hearing the clunk, is,,, your chassis has a crack in it, I said don't be stupid.. But as per usual he's was right ( you can grow to not like people, lol) seems that the chassis doesn't like my 20" Khan wheels, the extra pressure of turning the wheels when not moving put a nice crack down the chassis between the steering box mountings, so in a few weeks time when I do the engine change, I'm gonna drop the steering box and get the mig out,,, oh joy !,, don't think I could ever sell this rig, I'd have an advert like a book the amount that's gone into getting it right,, so everyone this is a sign to look out for, also advice of don't change your wheels,,

Hi guys, hope your all well, I'm continuing my fight to find the clunk I have when turning the steering,, island4x4 seem to list a shitpart replacement, was wondering if anyone has used one yet. I'm not happy using anything with that brand name. It's the last thing on the front to change, everything else has been swapped, never want to do another set of bearings, they were fun, didn't wanna come out,, a lot of heat and 30 ton press persuaded them, lol,, your opinions would be appreciated..

So yesterday I decided to change all the front ball joints and the front diff ( is that a heavy sob, or am I getting old) started on the lhs, took me 3.5 hours to get old out, new in, rhs, took me 40 minutes to do the same, once you've Sussed them out there not too bad. So nice to not hear the diff whine, and no Clunk when I turn the steering,, paying the price today with arthritis, lol, I won't let it beat me,,,

Last week, after7 months of running quite nicely, engine decided to knock for a few seconds on start up. Pulled it out last Wednesday and swapped over cranks with a spare I had, took a while to get the crank to turn, as every time I went to second torque, main or big, the engine locked, checked shells against crank for size, all ok. Built engine up, was tighter than I would of liked. Fitted back, started up nicely, now 70 miles on the same thing. Looks like at some point the blocks been cooked and has twisted 😟 So looks like engine out again in a few weeks and into the machine shop, possibly have top hats at the same time funds allowing ! So much for thinking I might have a quite year, lol, changing front diff and top and bottom ball joints this week, won't be long and bloody thing will have been completely rebuilt .. The joys of P38 ownership,, lol

Looking at grabbing a second hand front diff, I'm a bit worried about buying the wrong one, some adverts just say front diff (2 pin). Others are saying 24 spline ! Anyone have any idea what I should be looking for,, thanks

Can someone explain to me the difference between 2 pin and 4 pin axle ! Thanks

Hi everyone, I've seen that a few people swop the 4.6 for a 6.0. I'm thinking about doing the same, was wondering where these engines come from, i know it's from one of the American car suppliers, just not sure which. Also has anyone here done it ? If so is it a headache to do, or shall I just stick with my Thor 4.6.. You opinion would be appreciated,

Just introducing myself, Gilbert told me about this, so here I am, look forward to when we have a gathering, chris