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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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So my friend came over and put bushes into arms for me, went to refit them and came across both the nuts on the arms had been cross threaded, luckily it’s the nuts and not the arms, might explain why they were such a nightmare to get undone, PO seriously needs a good hiding, everything he did was buggered up, grrrr,,,,does anyone know the thread and size ? ..

Hi guys,
No 1, does anyone have the torques for radius arms bolts.

No 2, does anyone have the procedure for tracking, Its always felt ok, but as I’m doing the radius arm bushes, im gonna have it retracked, it took them about an hour last time, but steering wheel was slightly out ( which pees me off )
I will watch them this time to make sure they do it as per book,,
Thanks in advance

So this is one for the stereo nerds, lol,,
I’m looking at dumping the sub box and dsp amp, fixing some timber to the cover panel for sub
and putting a decent boom boom speaker in with a bigger amp.
I’m going to replace all the speakers throughout the car as well.
The question is, can I run the speakers the old fashioned way directly from the back of the stereo,
or do I still need to run them through the out stations, obviously I’m going to have a lot of fun
Joining up with a supply for the amp etc, I want to keep the cd changer if possible, and still have
control of the volume from the steering wheel, any help is appreciated..

( ps, working dsp amp ( with sat nav ) going up for sale soon )

Nano in forum Opening time

A question for those in the know, I’ve had someone ask if nano can sync ecu, the rangie has been converted from auto to manual, manual ecu installed.
Don’t slate me if it needs other things, it’s something I’ve been asked about and admit to not knowing.

So if I leave the car for more than a day it won’t start, I stick jump leads on ( after exhausting battery ) and sometimes it will fire up first turn, sometimes after numerous attempts.
It’s as though it’s flooded when it does eventually start ( smell of fuel ) , once running for a few seconds it will restart no problem, I know I’ve got a dodgy O2 sensor, but can’t get under at the mo, as I’ve broken some ribs,, would the sensor cause it to over fuel on start up ?..
Otherwise it runs fine..

Ok, so all summer my car sits lovely, doesn’t move overnight, but as soon as the wet or cold weather comes my front right drops overnight, It’s been doing this since I bought it, ive changed the valve block for my spare, sprayed the bag all over, it’s just weird that it only happens with damp or cold weather.
I have a 4 pin relay so not the self levelling.
Any thoughts welcomed

So I know I can read faults in hevac ect on all p38 models, can I read them on models that I don’t have any engine codes, ie l322, 405 ect

No start in forum Oily bits

So obviously I’ve upset mine after giving it a hoover inside, always been reliable as of the past 18-24 months, started first turn, but today it’s just cranking, plugged in the nano, no faults stored, looks like I know what I’m doing today ( as if I haven’t got enough going on) 🤬

Merry Christmas to everyone, and a prosperous new year to all.

What can I say, bought a set , put one in to compare against my 100w xenon bulb, the difference is unbelievable, it’s like the xenon are candles in a jar, £47, but worth it,,

Saw a post on FB, frickley off road center, looks like could be a fun day out sometime next year.
Unless of course someone knows of others..

After my Hanook battery suddenly with no warning died on me, I stuck a new one in, I haven’t used the car for 4 days so thought as it’s covered in ice I’ll fire it up, it’s midnight , I opened the door and it fired straight away, went to shut the door and the frigging lock must be frozen, it won’t latch, I presume it’s full of crap,
Has anyone else encountered this ? If so do I remove the latch and clean, or just shoot a can of brake cleaner into it, I’ve ratchet strapped the front doors together, so it’s secure till later when it’s light.

So yesterday im fitting rear bags, its still running round on originals i would say, so i go to pull the clips,, hmm theyve corroded away, i end up cutting both top and bottom to remove, put lhr in, no problem, fit rhr, no problems, check for leaks, check on all heights, all good, so i load the car up with tools, jack ect, go to garsge and unload jack, chocks ect, go round to my car, put tools in the boot, lock up both cars, talking to my nieghbour when kaboom ! rhr bag blew in half, must admit it looked half decent, but was rolled closed and i didnt get under after the install, i just wonder how long its been sitting on a shelf somewhere

So nano is reporting bank 2 not receiving a signal, I’m presuming bank 2 is even cylinders, r/h side of car,
Am I correct ?

I’m trying to get my front bumper off, the bolts at the front came undone with no problem, the side ones seem to just spin, are they just screwed into the plastic that I can see, or is there a bolt round the back ?.
I’m thinking about grinding them off if there just spinning on a insert.
Any tips appreciated.

Have we froze, or is everyone running ok for a change. Don’t think I’ve ever seen 3 days without something going on.
If your all running ok, come give me a hand to sort mine out, lol 😆

So I was having a clear out, had my old cats sitting there for a year now, thought do I throw or scrap, went down the scrap path, walked away with £160,, so be aware, if your thinking of fitting new cats, it won’t be as bad as it first seems,,

So I finally did it, after having my tick over go from 650 to 2500 I decided I need to invest in a nanocom evo,
Thought I’d have a look on eBay first, and grabbed one for £350, looks like new, in a posh bag, will most probably totally feck the car up once I start playing, lol 😂
I most probably will need some help once I start playing around, I’m ordering software for mine, as this has dse software ( might be helpful to help people )
I’m pretty sure the tickover problem is tps related, gotta dig out the spare one I have..