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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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Wow. What a headache!

When I converted mine from springs back to air I had similar problems but minor compare to yours.
I cleaned all the rust away which was minor, killed it with Kurust and used hammerite. The air springs certainly needed a firm push into position to enable the pins to go in, it was very tight, no play at all!

Disconnected battery and reset, still same.

Ran up engine and removed pump cover, pump not working, hmm.

Selected a small Engineer's hammer and carefully tapped all valve tops with engine running. A few clicks here and there and the pump started running!

Couple of minutes later, system pressurised and raised to normal. Clicked it through all settings, test drive and put her to bed....

All sorted for now.

The car has only done 10k miles in last 8 years with a lot of sitting around.

What's the concensus of opinion? Leave and monitor? Valve block replace/rebuild? Or?

It wa all going so well.

I refitted the air suspension several weeks ago and binned the springs, great move. All was working faultlessly. Existing pump, valvblock and other original components working like a dream, lovely.

Car this morning was sat a little lower, hmm. Started her up, lower access light solid and the normal light flashing. Waited a minute with engine running, no change. Moved off and within a hundred yards, all normal. Continued for my 8m mile journey and all sound.

Second outing this pm. Car sat parked and low on the driveway, hmm again. Started engine, same solid light on access position and flashing on normal position. Stuck now on access, no normal available.

When I switched the engine off and withdrew the key, I could here a clicking from the pump area.

There aren't any messages on the dash.

Help...........please...........

^^^^^^^

As above, had Disco 2 and P38 online lifted on chassis as above.

Never an issue with the air suspension hanging down.

Just picked my car up. New Headling fitted by Joe in Bookham.

Absolutely brilliant job, looks beautiful! Very pleased.

Useful info above, thanks.

I should be picking my car up tomorrow with the new headlining fitted.....

David. As discussed on Saturday, obviously your heads have been skimmed heavily.

Regarding cylinder head gaskets, when I assembled my 5.5 I used cometic gaskets. These are multi steel plate, although Each layer is thin and may well be thicker than standard gaskets. The downside is they are more expensive!

Regarding the V shaped ends that squeeze into the gap in between the heads and the block, I have had to trim them slightly but always use a smear of RTV.

Clive. It would be good to meet up when convenient. My car is away having the roof lining done at the mo. We will pick up on Thursday on our way home from a couple of days away.

Let me know when convenient.

Clive, a good post. Lots to think about.

Obviously, I am just taking other peoples views from the Internet.

Whereabouts are you? I am near Dorking in Surrey.

Dropped the car down to the auto upholsterer this afternoon.

My wife was following behind and she said that she could see the car having a gentle jiggle and sway around!

Have had a good check of the bushes and all seem sound. After doing a lot of reading I have come to the conclusion that the Koni Heavy Track adjustable dampers would help. I shall order a set tomorrow and hopefully they should be in to me in the next couple of days in time to pick up the car from having a new headlining fitted.

Good point.

I have got the Bearmach gizmo. Just waiting for the blue adapter for the EAS as was out of stock.

DavidAll wrote:

I have checked them out on other vehicles but not found a profile that I needed.

I've pm'd you about the headlining but as it's windy today probably won't go ahead. Welcome to call anyway.

PM not received.

Gilbertd wrote:

You can have an enormous amount of play and it won't be picked up on the MoT. A good example being the top and bottom balljoints on the front hubs. An MoT test won't pick up any play in them as they only test for side to side movement. The way to check them is to jack it up on the axle so the wheel is dangling, then put a crowbar under the wheel and see if you can lift it. If you can, they are shot and have a very marked affect on the handling and steering. Wear in the Panhard rod bushes will allow the axle to move from side to side but again won't be picked up on the MoT.

Checked these in the manner that you suggested and all good. Checked play in steering and all is sound there as well.

Steering doesn't actually wonder it's mainly the rolling from side to side. If you induce left right left quickly then it really does roll! Maybe a good set of dampers is what it needs.?

Anybody?

I wonder why Superflex bushes don’t last?

I fitted these to both my TVRs, covered about 50k miles, did about 50 track days and numerous sprints.

I never had one fail.

New dampers are on the list and I will check out bushes on the ramp today. I suspect these will all be original but sound.

What about a main dealer?

I got one easily for my 18 year old Skoda from a dealer.

Hmmm, I was expecting that.. :)

What about the Billies?