dazer2000 wrote:

Lift the left hand side front kick panel and check the wiring from the hole in the bulkhead and underseat to ecu, they suffer from rot there due to damp, also when di you last change the air dryer ? when you did the suspension work did you change it ?

Kick panel wiring was already modified and should be dry. I will check the ECU connectors.
I am going to replace the Desiccant in the dryer this weekend also.

Gilbertd wrote:

After swapping a known good valve block from one car to another I found that it didn't work. Squirted the big connector with contact cleaner, reconnected and everything started to work perfectly.

I will try this on the weekend. Thx

gordonjcp wrote:

If it's going to high height, it's trying to lower and failing. Check the plugs between the wiring loom and driver pack, and driver pack and coils - and try cycling the valves with the EAS software.

One or other of the rear corner solenoids isn't opening.

It goes to high mode when parked most times. Non return valve sticking I suppose.
The going to high mode while driving is so erratic I have no idea. I was parked last night with the truck in normal mode and engine running. This time it went to high mode and would not come down. It eventually did after I got out of the truck and back in. Next time it does this I am going to try to check the solenoids with my nanocom. I will check those plugs this weekend.

I have several issues with the EAS system but two that irritate me.

1. Truck goes to high profile setting while driving down the road. the light for high profile will flash as the truck raises but never stop flashing. I will immediately click normal profile to which it will return.
2. I will go to lower the truck to access profile and the front will drop but the rear will not. Light flashes for access profile but never goes solid.

To save some time with responses I have done the following to the truck in the last while.
Rebuilt valve block and compressor 3 months ago,
Replaced Driver module with NEW,
Connector in footwell area removed and all wires spliced and heatshrinked,
Height sensors calibrated with wood blocks after Driver module replaced.

I cleaned the connector at the ECU and put it all back together. I have since not got the 3 codes above but had one for the rear O2 sensor catalyst deteriorating. There is no cats and I have pulled the O2's from the stream with spacers. I also put a new set of spark plugs in which made a huge difference. I am just going to leave it alone for now. -20C sucks!
Resistance readings were all identical on all the wiring from the O2 connector to ECU connector. No issues.
The O2's are genuine bosch bought from Rockauto.

I have tested all the wiring. I have same results as before. All good between fuse 26 and O2's. All good between ECU and O2's.

Both sensors are getting 12v when ignition is at position II.

Both sensor heater circuits are showing resistance of 2.0 which good according to the link Orangebean posted.

Maybe a ground issue?

Orangebean wrote:

Have you checked the resistance of the heaters in your sensors Ray?
Have a look at this.
I'd suggest trying the BMW/ Bosch data first

I will take a look at this in the next day or so and do some testing.

Martyuk wrote:

Or just keep it in the same thread so we can keep track of it, so we aren't trying to reply in 2 or 3 places every time...

Be careful not to measure/put multimeter across the actual sensor pins on the bosch sensors.. I'm sure I killed my old pair doing that, since they generate the voltage themselves.

I'd also check heater resistance, and maybe even voltage getting to heaters when it's switched on.

What live data does nanocom show for them, do they ever heat up enough to start switching?

I looked on the Nanocom and one of the 2 is switching. The other one sits at 0.44
All this testing sounds like fun in a shitty Canadian winter without a garage. I will have to pull the ecu and test the heater circuits and if there is an issue I will have to crawl under and test again at the sensor connectors.

gordonjcp wrote:

Since it's a different topic, it might be better to create a different thread for it.

It's not like it costs anything :-)

True but all the info is here related to the previous testing I did.

I'm bringing this thread back from the dead to see if anyone can help me figure out why I the following codes after fitting 4 original bosch O2 sensors a couple months ago.

P0135 = Oxygen sensor heater upstream catalyst bank 1 drive cycle C - Signal too low
P0155 = Oxygen sensor heater upstream catalyst bank 2 drive cycle C - Signal too low
P1000 = Lambda Heater Upstream catalyst bank 2 Drive cycle C , signal missing

I swapped out the ECU and got same results. Reset adaptive values on both ECU's same result.

Remove the bracket with coils and wires attached. Place on bench and swap everything over. You have to install new coils on the bracket anyway.
On LHD truck without SAI you can pull the whole assemply out on the right hand side. Not sure if that will work with RHD.

I could take this truck apart and put it back together without a manual at this point. But I still love it! Lol

Everything is sorted and running great.
Idle issue was caused by the cruise cable tightening up somehow. I cleaned throttle body anyway.
Thermostat replaced and heater working again. Old thermostat had a snapped spring. Probably snapped the first time it opened.
All check engine codes gone. New O2 sensors fitted and swapped back in the NON-SAI ECU.
SRS light off after re-seating all connections to airbags with dielectric grease.
The truck drives like it never did in my ownership. Nice power at 3500 to 4500 rpm. Economy should be better now too.

Just cleaned the MAF sensor and IACV. Idle fluctuation still there. It is directly related to the AC kick on/off. I also cleaned the electrical connections on each unit and applied dielectric grease to the connections.
I am going to clean the Throttle body and test the TPS tomorrow or thursday evening.
Ordered a new thermostat, should be here monday or tuesday. Sucks draining the coolant again!
Two codes posted above have not returned yet.

Oh the O2 sensor ones are still there until my parts arrive from Rockauto. I also have 2 codes for the Secondary air as I swapped back in my old ECU. I will order a new thermostat but the first code has me worried. My idle is smooth most of the time but fluctuates a bit so it could be either of the sensors you mentioned. The new one in there is allmakes.

I have 2 fresh codes on the truck that I must solve.

P1000 = AIR FLOW TO THROTTLE ANGLE
CROSS CHECK FAULT DRIVE CYCLE B
OCCURRED 8 TIMES
SIGNAL INVALID
FAULT IS NOT CURRENTLY PRESENT

P1000 = ENGINE THERMOSTAT DEFECTIVE
OCCURRED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL INVALID
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT

I did notice on my way home from work that the temp gauge was taking forever to get to center. So when I was checking the coolant temperature I also pulled the codes. Coolant temp was 81. I replaced the thermostat 1 month ago.

They are not standard rubber orings. They are made from a different material. Viton vs Nitrile Rubber.

The Cam difference was so great I had to reset the adaptive values for it to idle correct. New Bosch O2 sensors on the way from rockauto. Also have a small coolant leak somewhere near the thermostat to figure out.

The camshaft was worn as suspected. I measured a couple of the lobes to compare and got almost 4mm difference on some.
Full top end rebuild done and the motor sounds so happy I think it wants to hug me! Lol.

I didn't have any issues fitting them. Same thread, same connectors.