Dont worry , I wont be putting anything on there again.

I actually have a nice tool tray that sits on the engine nicely but has always sat in the garage, UNTIL NOW.

Yeah, Ive learnt my lesson with Britpart.

Thought I'd change the water pump today.

There is a narrow rubber strip between the radiator and slam panel.

I have often left tools on there before but what I didn't realise is, the rubber strip was covering a gap and placed my pulley holder on it which is heavier than the usual screw drivers and narrower than the wrenches etc.

Oooops well more like fu(k1ng hell and a few more expletifs .

It fell flat on the bottom and there are no gaps at the bottom to retrieve it out.

I then spent 30 mins trying to hook it with a coat hanger to no avail . Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.

All I wanted to do was change the pump but as usual things end up taking twice as long as it should because stuff like this happens ( yeah my stupid fault I guess)

Then I remembered after a lot of swearing that as like others have mentioned I have a tool at the bottom of my kit that I forgot about.

A long bendable magnetic pick up tool.In fact I have 2, Doh.
With that and the coat hanger I got it out thankfully as I wasnt looking forward to the idea of taking the radiator off to retrieve it.

Managed to change the tensioner and idlers & drain the coolant so just hope tomorrow will go a bit smoother when changing the pump.

I'd noted that one but wasnt sure if it was just a stock photo or actual Bosch as it doesnt state Bosch just OEM quality.

Should I stick with a Bosch sensor currently about £70 or an Intermotor for £38. They reckon the Intermotor is a premium brand with 2 year warranty but Its the first time iv heard of that brand.

Thanks, Assuming O2 sensor 1 is at the front.

Which side is bank 2 sensor 1. Just had a fault code P0154.

ELM arrived today and I'm quite surprised the only fault code I have is P0154 o2 sensor circuit no activity detected ( bank 2 sensor 1)

Hopefully that will explain my slightly erratic idle.

Cheers OB, ordered.

Just looking at purchasing now.

Im a bit confused with Island 4x4 part numbers. Its STC4378 from what I gather but they have Aitex STC4378G or MEYLE GMBH STC4378M both state OEM

The radiator was replaced 18 months ago. I'm now suspecting the water pump.

Still getting an overheating problem.

Just watched a video on testing the water pump and it shows that if you can wiggle the fan then the pump is faulty.

I can wiggle my fan using both hands, not a huge amount but should it be rock solid with no movement.

Im sure ive bled the system well this time and it seems to be ok round town, just on dual carriageways its overheating now.

Spoke too soon.

Its seems fine around town back n forth to work at 30mph but anything around 50mph its overheating again.

Would a faulty thermostat cause this maybe

Ok, Thats better.

Just raised the expansion tank as you both suggested and it completely changed the scenario.

It didn't overflow or even attempt to go above the level this time plus when I disconnected the bleed hose from the radiator it pissed out coolant from the radiator which probably aided the unblocking whereas before nothing came out.

Sounds like Im probably running the engine too long then Ferryman.

Did your coolant level start to rise to overflow with the cap off at any point?

Still having problems.

I am also a bit confused with the rave bleed guide.

" Fill expansion tank until coolant is level with base of neck" where exactly is the base of the neck? does that mean just below where the filler cap would normally be.

I have only filled it to the cool level as when I turn the engine on without the cap on it then once warm starts to raise over the top of the neck & overflows.

I have also read elsewhere that instead of disconnecting the bleed hose from the radiator to disconnect it from the expansion tank instead and blow down it.

I had seen those before but for £5 It made me wonder if it would even work let alone give all that info.

I will give one a go though. Cheers.

Is there any other way of testing a MAF without a Nanocom. Im still getting a slight idle problem but dont fancy spending a packet on a replacement Bosch unless I know for sure its the MAF at fault.

Ok, I think it was definitely a huge air lock. It probably ran out of coolant , I suspect the Body heater plate has a leak even though I only replaced it last year. I havent done the RAVE bleed yet , it seems to be ok after I topped it up without the expansion cap on and ran the engine. I now have hot air again but I will do a full bleed.

Cheers Gilbertd and Ob.