Unfortunately I dont have one so will still have to wait to get one but thanks for the recommendation.

Due to the position I dont think I will be able to put a tap through it , I dont fancy taking it all apart again to do so.

The stud is a good option, cheers.

Another sodding problem with the Cylinder head received from Emmets. Discovered today that the bottom left exhaust manifold bolt hole is threaded.

I think I will be able to partly resolve it as I can put the bolt in about 50% before it will turn no more. So I will just have to make the bolt shorter and hopefully I can still torque it once shortened.

Didnt need to remove the rockers, so all a bit tighter, just hope my torque wrench is accurate as the extra 10nm didnt seem much different.

Todays gaff. There is a reason why you leave the rocker covers till last as I discovered.

You cant get the front exhaust pipes back in on the drivers side if you do. Fortunately I managed to squeeze it up through the wheel arch instead.

Fortunately I can just remove the rockers. I think my Torque only goes to 90 nm anyway.

Ok, swear box has started, I just re-read the instructions after you stating ft/lbs and gues what, its 80ft/lbs not Nm's
I bloody read it twice before as well.
Oh well there goes my too good to be true day.

Dont start throwing ft/lbs at me. I thought I was doing well following the manufacturer's spec.

Started putting it all back today, well half of it at least.

I am pleasantly surprised that so far nothing has broken.

The ARP studs went in a treat. Tightened to 80NM no problems.Glad I bought them over the stretch bolts now as I dont think it would have gone so well.The only negative with the ARP's was that not a single allen key fitted the studs, I dont know what size they are but I ended up using some other star key that did the trick.

So far have managed to put back the upper inlet manifold so not much left .

The only heart stopping moment I had was when not once but twice I dropped a nut down into the valley through the inlet manifold.
My trusty magnetic pick up tool found them otherwise the swear box would have been full.

I think you are right Richard, oddly none of the usual dealers have a picture though they sell it.
I only found 1 picture on google and it looks the same as what I need.

Thanks.

Thanks OB, had a look but couldnt see it, though I know that link will come in handy so it wasnt wasted.

Yeah, tried the 2 nuts trick.

I dont have a heat source , just thinking it will be cheaper and quicker to buy a replacement if its possible.

Finally got all my bits to start replacing the H/G.
Just swapping over the brackets from the old cylinder head to new and also the bolt from the front of the R/H ( passenger side) cylinder head that goes to a part on the aux belt.

I cant undo it as it doesnt have a fixed nut, Ive tried using grips to no avail. Does any one know a part number or name of this bolt.

I'd say that was a good price, cant remember exactly what I paid but it was at least £100 more than that.

I used to use Scorpions but found they werent grippy in snow and I would slide on a simple turn.
Been using Grabbers for a couple years now and prefer them. Although I dont do offroad they look like they will handle it, I havent slipped in any snow with them on.

Well all my bits have arrived but annoyingly there was no ARP lubrication for the bolts included so now I'm just waiting for that.

I use my Facebook to upload photos and just set the FB setting for only me to see, then click on the photo and right click copy the link then paste on here.

Go to the settings - display and see if there is a tap to wake option.This will allow you to double tap the screen to wake it up.
There are other apps out there like wave unlock but not sure if that will work after a flat battery.

There are also bluetooth buttons you can buy. They are stick on buttons that you could place on the dash say, They can be programmed to do different controls via bluetooth. So you might be able to set it as an on button when it connects to the tablets bluetooth.

Also look up NFC tags, they are similar to the bluetooth providing your tablet has NFC of course.

ARP studs arrived from Rimmers today.
They are actually supplied by RealSteel.co.uk. It looks like they sell them for £118 and according to their T& C's page VAT is included.They do a pdf on their parts for the v8. The part number for the studs are AZ510A. Unfortunately they are not supplied with the ARP Molly Lube so you will need to order separately for a few quid.

Hope this saves someone else a few quid when ordering.

Sounds familiar, I cant test mine yet but I'm pretty sure it would rise to standard level then adjust itself before continuing to high level but I'm not sure I would call it a jump.

Replacement head arrived today, all seems good. Now to order the other bits to put it all back together.
I noticed that when ordering from LR direct it states Brand : Original Equipment but the supplier is Britpart, Is that a Britpart subsidiary and another brand to avoid?

** Just seen the same with Dayco but I thought Dayco was good.