Did a bit of investigating as to why fuel not getting through and car would not start. Unscrewed the fuel banjo on the FIP. No fuel when cranking.
Checked fuse 39 OK, relay RL12 tested OK. Ran a lead from battery +ve to pin 87? under RL12, I think it was. The in tank pump would still not run.
Opened the "hatch" in the boot to get at the pump. Unplugged the connector and plugged in my spare pump just lying on the carpet to test it. The new unconnected pump ran immediately the ignition was turned on. Surprised, I thought it only ran when engine was turning over? Earlier cars pump just when glow plugs come on.
Anyway the problem now confirmed as a duff intank pump (Britpart). Been in less than 5 years. Original factory one was in for 15 years.
Unscrewed fuel unions and loosed the ring holding the sender unit in. Lifted the sender unit out and found the rubber tank seal had slipped down inside the tank and was caught around the base of the sender. It had swelled up to twice its normal size in the diesel. Explains why my fuel gauge sticks sometimes. Ordered new tank seal.

I've encountered many people moaning about britpart stuff ---- they used to do OE or cheap options --- Usually cheap part gives up and then people moan about britpart ----- Now britpart changed --- due to the reputation

I've heard the same. Since they were taken over, the new owners are working hard to reverse the Sh*tpart reputation. It'll take a while though and I still wouldn't trust them for some things. It's very easy to get a bad reputation and far harder to get rid of it.

The problem is the huge price differential between Landrover and aftermarket parts.
Imagine trying to run a p38 and you could only parts from LandRover. I would probably scrap mine .
Britpart are OK for basic things like brake disks, calipers, dampers maybe. They don't actually make stuff as far as I know but they have quality problems with what they buy. I get the impression that a lot of their stuff is made in India. Not so good on quality. China is far better.

I got water pump£52 and crank sensor £74 That's reasonable especially as sensor was Bosch ---- what's the point of having a premium vehicle if you can't afford parts for it You get what you pay for I suppose Used my vogue every day at 16mpg not a problem but now trading in discovery 1 stuff instead

How did you get an OE water pump for £52? OE not listed and genuine is £200! https://www.lrdirect.com/STC4378-Water-Pump-Rr-4.0-4.6-V8-Efi-94-O/?keep_https=yes

That's from LRDirect, but from JLR it's slightly cheaper https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/stc4378-pump-assembly-engine-coolant.html

It's one of those you get what you pay for. You can buy the cheapest and get rubbish or you buy genuine and pay through the nose for it. I normally go for OEM, which will be supplied through another reseller (Bearmach, Allmakes and sometimes Britpart, etc).

Symes congrats on the Disco. Great vehicle but if you’re getting 16mpg on the P38 it will be 14 in the boxier Disco.

Does not matter to me ----- my rover p6 does about 10mpg As I see it ---- Can't afford it don't have it ---- people will go on about log But that depends were you live ---- No garage within 30 miles from me has it anymore

The passenger side step supporting brackets rusted through and broke, three weeks ago. Fortunately, the brackets on the chassis are good so I asked my lad to call around and weld two replacement support arms to the side step frame.

He did this last weekend, and I had to then spray the frame with zinc primer and then black paint. As I deconstructed the side step I spent today fitting new small support pieces to the rubber rusted end sections, refitting the rubber step, and then cutting the new support arms to the correct size. I bought some 30mmx30mm square plastic plugs to fill in the open ends, so that they look neat.

These original side steps are really heavy, so I have decided to leave refitting the step until another day. I need to drill new mounting holes through the new arms, but I am no fitting Rivnuts, I am just going to bolt them straight through the mountings with 10mm stainless bolts [out of my old work stock box - which also contains about 10 boxes of S/S washers from 6mm to big penny washer type for 12 mm bolts].

As I have not got a pit or any such amazing workshop ancilliaries I will have to use the trusty trolley jack and just jack up into position.

But on another day, when I have more energy.

Took some time to watch the funeral of HRH Prince Phillip. A sad loss, it just reminds one that all of our days are numbered. RIP.

Pierre3.

You can fit side steps easily by placing on floor near to vehicle lift one end into place put bolt through then lift other end into place then after that it's not too difficult And definitely a sad day about HRH Prince Phillip

A fitting last voyage to a true Land Rover fan ...

I was half expecting his funeral hearse to have a pool of oil underneath.

Nah, screwed together by Land Rover Special Vehicles, they build them properly.

Hi Symes, the problem is, at the moment, is that I need to line up the step in the brackets so that I can mark the support arms and drill new holes in the correct positions. I have the arms cut to the correct lengths [there is 10mm difference in length between the front and back arms] so I need to lift the step up into the brackets and punch a mark onto the arms through the original bolt holes in the brackets.

This is the side step with no support arm remaing:

This is the bracket under the vehicle, requiring a good grinding off with the wire wheel:

This is the front rubber end piece required new strengtheners:

Finally, the side step with a new support arm welded in, but no mounting holes yet:

It will have to be lifted with the trolley jack to mark up new holes in the supporting arms, going through the bracket holes. It is too heavy to lift it, hold it in place, and punch a mark in the arm, all on ones own. It's not going to happen !!!

Pierre3.

Something that most will find hard to believe, I polished it..... Took it into the village first so it could be attacked by a team of Romanians with soapy mitts and a pressure washer which got it clean, then got it home and out with the Turtle Wax. Not quite up to the standard of those that are into detailing, but it's clean and shiny rather than it's usual dull and filthy.

Might even clean the dog nose prints off the inside of the windows tomorrow if I can be bothered.

I bet she appreciates a good polish, my Dad used to say cars tend to drive better when clean LOL

Mine is covered in dents/scratches I've pretty much given up on polishing it, however I still keep it clean to stop all the shyte sitting in seams and rotting it out..

A nice big parcel arrived for mine yesterday...

Around 2000mi since the last service, I'm aiming to "slowly" remove all the shite from the inside, she has run LPG since 2003 however oil change intervals from 2001-2013 were around 25k miles apart which isn't great on the old RV8

The old Stuff came out and was quite dark for the mileage, atleast the oil is doing some good eh!

Old oil filter was a right pain in the ass to remove, I certainly don't remember putting it on that tight but it took the skin off my knuckles..

Mating surface cleaned up and new filter primed up and spun on..

Plug back in,

And liquid gold thrown in.

She seems to like the old Comma 10w40 the annoying valvetrain rattle it has when hot is getting better which is a bonus..

• Should really have a thread to document everything on this beast, to be fair it likes to punch me in the bollix after a good deed, it did this by springing a leak from the throttle body heater, so a new'un is on the way!!

Sump gasket needs doing too.

@StrangeRover that is an interesting fan you have there. After market?

Do you mean the orange bit you can see in one of the photos? I can't see any sign of a fan there, the orange bit you can see I think is the handle of a bucket being used to catch the old oil?