Hi Richard, I don't wish to sound pretentious but getting the screws and captive nuts were the first thing I did when I bought my P38. When I got the cat home I noticed that one of the back screws had no spring on it, and the front captive nut was missing out of the front grill bodywork. I ordered three new screws and captive nuts from Rimmer Bros, if I remember correctly.
Dave [if I can shorten your forum name !], the grab handles were a bit awkward to replace, indeed. When I did the first handle I fecked about trying to carefully poke holes through the material in the correct position, but I soon realised that doing it that way was pointless. So, I screwed the fitting screws into the roof a few times, to see what the angle was and how far up the roof screw hole was, then I just got hold of the handle, forcefully [!!!] held the handle back against the return spring and just forced the screw through the material until I felt it meet the screw hole.
Once I found that that worked the other handles went in fairly easily.
The reading lights above the back seats were a bit of a pain and I found the easiest way to get them back in position was to first use a longer screw to get the light located, then screw in one of the two original length screws, and finally swapping the longer screw for the second, original shorter screw.
I think that any of the adhesives for sticking roof lining material are all instant bonding. I asked four different suppliers of material adhesives whether it was possible to move the material after it was initially stuck down. Each one said "no" as the adhesive is a contact adhesive. I think that the only way it would be possible would be to spray adhesive on only one side of either the material or the roof panel, and I think that then the material wouldn't adher properly. It seems that when the adhesive is sprayed onto a surface it immediately sticks to that surface but also then expects another layer of adhesive to be laid on top of it, and the two surfaces stick firmly together. I don't think you would get very far glueing one side only.
If I may say, you would have been better starting at the back of the panel because then the material has been able to adher to a large section of the panel before you get to the sunroof opening and all the humps and bumps around the opening. I think that I may have recommended making sure to glue down the material on the "underside" of the panel. The only parts where ther needed to be only a small turnover is over the door edges, because the roof panel has to fit comfortably into the door seal channel. I think too much could mean the material starting to bunch on the back of the panel.
I did leave generous amounts glued to the "underside" of the panel where-ever I could, but the edges around the sunroof opening didn't allow for very much extra at all.
I absolutely agree about expecting it to be easier having watched an American video. If you saw the same one that I watched it shows a guy with the panel on a work table and using an air powered spray gun for the adhesive, so that he did the whole panel in about two minutes !!! That guy probably did a panel every week by the look of it.
I think that, if you are like me, you are probably pretty critical of your own work, assuming that it is not as good as original. But I have found that after a few days things seem to settle down, and unless there is a big obvious crease, no-one is likely to notice small bumps in the material, especially when it is around the grab handles because the handle bases cover up most of the imperfections. The way I look at it is that I have saved €500 from not paying some-one else to do the job, and also I would have been really jerked off if some-one else installing the material didn't do any better job than I have - but I had to pay him to do it !!!