1st bitch of the day. relocating copper liquid gas pipe to new location, discovered that there were no clips holding said pipe in place apart from where it was fitted to the reducer!
Hence pipe has happily been rubbing against steering shaft UJ since installation. Wonder the bloody thing didn't wear through and blow the car up!
Ah well, time to spend an hour or two making brackets for P clips. Will I ever get this job finished?
Answers on a postcard please.

Yes, but it will take far longer than you ever thought it would (a bit like the delivery really, it's been downhill from there when you think about it.....).

Plumbing- my least favourite job! If the heater O rings and heater to inlet O ring don't leak after this it'll be a bloody miracle. To add to pressure my mate needs space in workshop where RR is sitting at the weekend so we can change the clutch on his Ranger...

Quick question Gilbertd- can vapour side filters be mounted upside down? Make my life easier if they can!

Upside down? What sort have you got? One of these by any chance? http://tinleytech.co.uk/shop/lpg-parts/valtek-type-97emer-vapour-filter-complete/ As it's in the vapour line I can't see the orientation making any difference.
My SE has one and I had intended replacing it with something like this, http://tinleytech.co.uk/shop/lpg-parts/lpg-vapour-filter-f-779-c-12mm/ as it's smaller and can be fitted anywhere.

First one, so I'll give it a try :)
Like the 2nd one though. next time I order something, I'll go for one of those...

I use the 2nd one, has an arrow for one way traffic, easy to replace and is cheap. No more reasons needed.

Sequential system reducers can be mounted in any orientation, though there may in theory be slight advantages for longevity if they are installed in a certain orientation, would depend on reducer type and where inside it heavy ends are likely to build up. But since any slight advantage here would be completely overshadowed by the negative effect on reducer longevity of allowing the reducer to become a block of ice, it is better on vehicles with high risk of airlocks to mount the reducer in orientation that will best prevent airlocks.

I use loads of different types of filters on new installs, the handiest types are usually the smaller types, if I get too many of the big types in stock I'll fit them on vehicles I'm converting that have loads of space! The big type probably contains a gauzy type filter, reckon the small paper type do the best job of filtering but will need changing more often. Probably no advantage to being anorak about type of any filter, biggest job they do is prevent big bits of crispy heavy ends clogging injectors (vapour) or bits of foreign stuff from clogging reducer (liquid).

A new engine wouldn't put me off running it on LPG, but I'd be 100% the LPG system was working properly.

What to do with a new engine with a new cam... bottom ends like to be run in gently at first, cams are often better run in at high rpm. But nobody is going to fit an old cam in a new engine and swap the cam for a new one when then bottom end is run in, not in a pushrod engine anyway...

Simon

Gas doesn't currently work anyway, since my "improvements". I'm guessing I've knocked a connector or something pulling the ECM in and out and moving the loom where it was tied in a lump in the old ECU box. No lights on gas/ petrol switch at moment.
Once I've got it to work on petrol, I'll move onto the gas.
Sigh...

Well, AEB have terminated my relationship with them by refusing to supply me with the software I'm seeking "for licence reasons" but have kindly passed on my email chain to Zavoli, who emailed me today.
They're prepared to sell me the correct software for the B type controller. My main problem now is that the lpg system steadfastly refuses to come to life in any shape or form. Have checked and cleaned all connectors, batt power and fuse and earth, but- nothing. No lights at switch. Only cable I've replaced was a single cable to the rpm signal at engine ECU where the insulation was chafing through. Only connection I took off was power to tank solenoid while I was playing with petrol side looking for misfire. Those connectors are insulated and definitely didn't short to each other or earth. I even marked them to make sure they went back onto solenoid the same way they came off.
Where to start with the in depth fault finding ie which bits don't take whole system out if there's a broken cable or something?

If you are sure there is 12V arriving at the ECU, the next place to look would be at the switch. There should be 4 wires, a 12V, a ground and two data lines which will probably show as 5V with a normal meter.

Will do Gilbertd. Extreme cold and numb fingers have driven me out of the workshop (out of red for heater) so will get on the case tomorrow morning.
Do I test data lines across to earth? Is switch 12v line ignition or perm live?

Yes, negative meter probe to ground and check the others with the positive probe.

And is the 12v feed meant to be permanently live or via ignition switch?
Logic would say ignition switched, but my logic gland isn't working too well at the moment

Ignition switched. Somewhere, I've got a diagram that shows the pinouts for the AEB ECU so you can check that you have the correct voltages in the correct places. Can I find it? It's in the same place as your non-return valves......

Simon may have it though and I'm sure he'll be along soon.

The +12v has been permanent on all three I've had/have. I thought it knew when to wake up from voltage seen at the petrol injectors? I don't recall having an ignition switched input on the AEB system I took off my old car. Might have done... but it definitely had permanent 12v like the current two I've got.

That's right. There's the permanent live that should come directly from the battery (via a fuse obviously) while the ignition switched supply is on a red/white wire that connects to the common positive supply to the petrol injectors.

That diagram showing pinout voltages would be a wonderful thing to have. 2 unwanted non-return valves arrived today. Does that help with locating it?!

You haven't just swapped the two black plugs over that carry the petrol injector signals to the LPG ECU have you...
I can send versions of Zavoli software.

Simon.

Gilbertd wrote:

That's right. There's the permanent live that should come directly from the battery (via a fuse obviously) while the ignition switched supply is on a red/white wire that connects to the common positive supply to the petrol injectors.

Aha, that answers that then :)