…. And the best part about ARP studs, no need to buy a new set of head bolts…..
…. And the best part about ARP studs, no need to buy a new set of head bolts…..
Removed& repaired seals on sunroof & change glass also fitted new roof liner
Installed exhaust system, manifold back, in 4.6. Easy enough project. Hadn’t realized how loud the old thing was getting until I drove it with new pipes.
Atlantic British for $449.
Picked up td5 commercial from work today so cheap almost theft Still got 4 month MOT. Gearbox synchro gone between 1&2 but I got a box for it anyway --- should make a great work wagon for me
Washed/polished the vogue as it's in a classic car show tomorrow ---- have to admit the old bus looks great ---- sure it got bigger ---- took all day ---- definitely better to drive them than clean them
I found a NOS under bonnet sound mat, so rather than see it go to waste, I replaced the one on the truck for the new one. Sending off the old one to be fitted in the parts truck (see signature!).
Over the past couple of weeks:
Both the front and rear crankshaft main oil seals have been replaced as has the rear transfer box oil seal. There is no way I can get the gearbox out at home for the rear seal so this had to be done by the Indy for me. Mrs Garvin decreed that if Rangie didn’t stop leaking oil on the drive then it would have to go!!! Rangie is, at last, oil tight . . . . . . . for now!
Whilst out both propshafts and UJs fully inspected and, incredibly, found to be in good order so treated to a good greasing.
Rebuilt EAS valve block installed.
The ‘patina’ (read wear) on the steering wheel leather and leather gear shift knob have been cleaned back, recoloured and resealed.
New sub-woofer speakers installed and the removed ones have now had new foams and cones reglued so have joined my stock of ready use spares.
The CD changer has been stripped down and repaired . . . . . . yet again!!
Not today but Friday took mine for MoT. Knowing me and the car he was determined to find something as nobody would believe a car with 428,673 miles on the clock can have nothing at all wrong with it. Bastard did too, a tiny bit of play in one anti-roll bar drop link. Replaced later the same day.
Quiet land rover day ---- water pump change on P38 DSE . Alternator change on discovery 300 TDI Having a break then got brakes on 4.0 V8 to do -------. I'll be glad to go to work for a rest !!!!
Drove mine back from just outside of Paris with a 20 foot powerboat hanging off the back.....
Gave mine a sunday to socialise with others of his species ... he (for me the Range Rover is male) feels quite lonely, as our beasts get rare over here ...
Put the car in for an MOT. It got through, but with a couple of advisories ..... ugh. Said a couple of rubber boots on the track rod were split, also handbrake was a bit high (caused by the garage who swopped my transfer box a while back).
Revised the 3d printer designs for the carpet clips. Need to print a few out now for testing. I think I need a stronger plastic like carbon fibre.
Made a jig to fit the BeCM logic board to make it easier to make connections instead of soldering onto the board.
I may be offering an unlocking and/or a cloning service. Or maybe just a backup of the settings, if there is any interest.
Modern boots don't seem to last that long these days. A couple of MoT's ago I replaced the complete tie bar that runs between the two hubs with a Lemforder unit. The following year both boots were down as advisories for splits. They aren't rubber any longer but seem to be some sort of vinyl.
I put my P38 through a final MOT about a month ago. I have re-registered it in France so now it is due a Contrôle Technique every two years but thought it useful to have a third party look under the car & warn me about any developing problems like split rubber boots. Apparently it only just passed on emissions but the only advisories were a "oil leaks - unknown" (it's a P38 so of course it has an oil leak:-) & "tappet knocking in engine (may effect the emissions)". There has been a very loud tappet noise for about eight years so I'm not worried but it's the first time I've heard of that as an MOT advisory.
Fitted a non return valve in the fuel line from the tank to the filter to aid starting.
When the car has been standing for a bit, which is more the norm now, the diesel runs back to the tank and it needs an age to crank it to get the fuel through. It helps that I have got a new Hankook 1000 CCA battery.
I fitted a new in tank pump a while back and I didn't realise it didn't have a non return valve. Must have been for a petrol car. Diesel's should have a non return valve built into the pump. Car starts first thing on the key now, after preheat of course.
Not today but on Friday I put in a warranty claim. Some years ago I fitted a Direnza high capacity, all alloy radiator as it was only slightly more expensive than a decent quality standard one and I figured the extra capacity would be better when towing. For the last few weeks, on odd times when getting out of the car, I could smell coolant and I was losing about half a litre every 1,000 miles. It never dropped any coolant on the floor, looked completely dry from underneath and there was no damp carpet or smell inside the car which would have pointed to heater core O rings (replaced when I first got the car 12 years ago). Then on Thursday I called in at Wickes to get a few more bits for a house I'm working on and the other half stopped at the front of the car and said, you've got a leak. There was a puddle of coolant under the front left of the car. A quick look from underneath and it appeared to be coming from the radiator somewhere at the top near where the top hose connected. All dry around the hose but dribbling down the radiator. Took a photo of a damp patch and contacted Direnza on Friday to make a claim under their lifetime warranty. They asked if I could email a photo or video so they could see the problem without me having to send the radiator to them. Sent them the photo but decided I needed a better look.
Pulled the grille and slam panel off and started the engine to let it get up to temperature and start to pressurise. Realised that although it was damp on the front, the leak was actually a pinhole at the back. See https://youtu.be/UyBtfezClrk and it looked even worse from the front https://youtu.be/oDyYXlUYYtA. Sent these to Direnza who replied within an hour saying they would send me a replacement straight away. Can't say fairer than that but I'm waiting now for the email to say they can't supply me with a replacement as they don't list the GEMS radiator any more. They never did do a Thor version and the only one they list these days is one for the diesel with a built in oil cooler. Just got to wait and see what happens.
I have got an Allisport radiator on my diesel that looks identical to the Direnza. We have had this discussion before me thinks.
You can weld up the old one so I wouldn't throw it out. My fan caught on the fins causing a leak and I bought an aluminium welding kit and repaired it. It. Although it is called a welding kit it was really a brazing kit that looked like silver solder. You need a gas torch with a fine point. Secret seemed to be the stainless steel fine wire brush that got the aluminium oxide layer off and the special flux.
Your leak seems to be on the weld of the header box which would be easier to weld I think. Has it split? Maybe under tension? Bolts didn't line up properly which is very often the case and caused tension?
Mine also has the engine oil cooler built in but unconnected. I was toying with the idea of using it as the auto gearbox cooler.
So they aren't under tension, I've never fitted the bolts at the bottom whenever I've changed a radiator, the bolt holes never seem to line up. I've seen one where someone fitted the bolts even though the holes didn't line up and it ripped the bottom off a brand new rad. I work on the principle that gravity will hold it in place and even if I manage to get the car upside down, it still won't fall out as the hoses will hold it in (and I'd have far more serious things to worry about than a loose radiator). I've not looked at it properly but it is almost certainly a pinhole in a weld so an easy fix anyway, but if they are going to send me a new one, I'll fit that and repair the old one so I have a spare in case I ever need one. I never throw anything away that can be repaired and put back into service if needed.
I have a britpart rad on mine surprisingly good quality.
Anyway, whats that rattling?
No idea. It's done it since I've owned it and it comes and goes, sometimes noticeable other times you can't hear it. The Ascot does it but not as loud or noticeable and I've noticed some others have it to some degree. I thought is was camshaft speed so replaced the followers and it made no difference. Thought it would go away once the engine had been rebuilt but it didn't. The guys at V8 Dev listened to it and couldn't work out what it was either. I think it was you that mentioned the front bearing on the 4HP22 gearbox wears so the shaft orbits rather than rotates and I've wondering if it is that. I could forgive it as it is the original box that has now done 431,000 miles but as it was doing it when I got the car at 205k and has never got any better or worse, then maybe not.