phew thats good then :)

Had that bloody manifold far too many times already!

upload pics to imgur then paste the link

Quick one. I'm going to order a pair of the valtek rails and the diagnostic cable.

But before i do, am i going to have to pull the manifold off again and replace the nozzle things, or can i retain the bigas nozzle things and just swap the injector rail out?

Ok so managed to get the pipes connected up today and try things out.

Using nanocom, i started the engine on petrol and viewed the long term trim, which was showing as -35.

I started the engine on petrol and let it warm up, and the short term trims were fairly low. bank 1 was oscillating around zero, the other a little more negative, say -5 to -1 sorta range. I'd say the trims looked fine, while on petrol.

Then i switched over to gas.

After it stalling the first time (empty pipes i presume?) i restarted and switched over again and this time it switched fine. But the engine note immediately changed and there was a pronounced vibration and roughness from the engine. The fuel trims also seemed to swing in opposite directions. Bank 1 went from oscillating around 0 upto maybe +15-17ish. Bank 2 seemed to get more negative, but only a little bit.

So clearly something aint right, and given its different from one bank to the other i presume we can say its probably an injector issue? If it was system calibration then it would affect the whole engine the same way right?

Is there any other diagnostics i should look at, or should i just bite the bullet and buy some new injectors?

Thanks, thats helpful. So essentially, raising the gas pressure from 1.2 to 1.6 to compensate for the smaller injector nozzle.

yeh i think they're both nominally "200cc" injectors, which is why they're sold as a replacement/upgrade for the GEMS ones.

When i last checked the long term fuel trims it was sitting at -10 on both banks. I've done a few more miles since then though, so i'll recheck at some point and see if its stayed there. If its sticking around -10 then it suggests the new ones are a wee bit larger.

When i got it, the engine would barely run. I've replaced the MAF, both lambdas and the fuel injectors and finally have an engine that mostly works as it should on petrol. Hence now looking to get the LPG back up and running.

Once i get the LPG back online, i can compare the trims between gas and petrol and see if they look sane. If they're miles out or uneven between banks i guess thats a sign that the injectors are needing replaced? At least these V30's are nice and cheap. I may well just replace them anyway, but a few other bits need fixing first!

Well if your passing by can always ping me a message and see if it happens to line up. If i'm over glasgow way i can always give you a shout! :)

Thanks.

I guess i'll pipe up the existing ones and see what happens.

I presume the computer software and leads are readily available? How would i know what i'd need the reducer pressure to be at?

The new petrol injectors i fitted probably have a slightly different flow rate anyway (they're bosch Gen3's from a 1.4L K series), so the LPG calibration might well need a tweak regardless.

Had a look at the bigas rails last night.

Both had "3.0" stamped on the underside. I'm not sure if that suggests they're running 3.0mm nozzles, or is something else?

That might be handy, i'm right on the A92 in Glenrothes, so literally driving right past me if you take the scenic route to dundee.

Where about are you based? I work in Loanhead which might be closer?

Pulled the rears apart tonight.

Again the disks look new, pads are TRW brand so no crap been used. The NSR caliper is new, but the bottom slider pin was siezed quite badly. managed to free it off, got it all lubed up and working and rebuilt.

Offside caliper wasnt new but piston did move with some persuasion. again disks and pads all good, and again the bottom slider pin was a bit stiff though not as bad as the other side. Oddly when i took that one apart it was seriously pitted and corroded, so i'll get a new slider for that side.

Is there any forum members local to me (fife, scotland)? Be useful to have a go in another P38 to compare!

Stripped the front brakes today and had a look. Everything was clean and free. Pistons all moved easily, silders free and pads moved easily in the carrier. Pads are Mintex brand. Disks look pretty good as well, no pitting or corrosion.

Will check the rears as well maybe tomorrow.

I did notice the ball joint on the drivers side track rod was fubar, boot has split and its all rusty inside, so that needs sorted!

Thanks for the info. They do an 11mm filter instead of 12, so i guess i'll get one of those and hope the pipes squeeze on!

I was actually already thinking about the possibility the injectors were iffy. Also have been run without filter might have clogged them up etc?

There was a note from the last LPG service about "fluttering" injectors on one bank, which seems to have been fobbed off with "ignore until it gets worse". Interestingly its the same bank that was fouling plugs on petrol so maybe more going on than meets the eye.

Is there an easy way to check nozzle size? I will have a look thru the installation paperwork and see if its mentioned in there.

yeh i guessed it was pressure equalisation.

I will fire an email to lpgshop and ask them if they're connected internally.

So while trying to make the car actually run, i pulled all the LPG pipework out the engine bay.

The injectors were originally mounted above the exhaust manifolds which was stupid, so on reassembly i remounted them off the plenum.

The pipework from the evaporator was strange so i removed all that and want to re-do it properly. there was also no filter.

So i currently have this:

Originally there was two short pipes off each side of the evaporator, each running to a Y connector. One branch of the Y went to a gas rail, and the other linked to the other Y.

I understand i should have a filter, and i've discovered filters with two inlets:

http://www.lpgshop.co.uk/lpg-filter-h-inlet-2x12mm-outlet-2x12mm/

So instead of all the messing with Y pieces, can i just run the two evaporator outputs into that, and then run the outputs from that directly to each gas rail?

perhaps the brake pump?

not thrashing it particularly. One blast off a roundabout (full throttle from 30ish upto about 70), otherwise just sat on the motorway doing 70-75 indicated, bar a stretch of 40mph average cameras thru some roadworks. There was a bit of traffic on the way home, but that didnt seem to effect it too much (average on way in showed 14.7, and 15.1 on the way back)

Oddly, the front wheels arent balanced (the tyres were fitted in a rush by the guy i bought the wheels from), the rear tyres were ruined, so i bought some part worns and had them fitted by a local respectable garage and they appeared to be balanced up as you'd expect.

So unless it is a front and its just not detectable due to slack in the steering or something, it seems a bit odd.

I want to get underneath and check/grease the propshafts, who knows when they were last done.

Well i decided to take the truck in to work today. My commute is 40miles each way, so a decent road test for it.

No breakdowns, everything worked as it should which is a good start!

Highlighted a few things that need sorted though.

Primarily there was a vibration at higher speeds. 55-60ish i guess it was most pronounced, but it wasnt entirely consistent. The steering wheel didnt seem to shake, it felt like the whole car was vibrating. At 70 it went away a bit. It was still there but less pronounced. One thing that was consistent, was that lifting off the throttle at 70 made a very distinct deep droning noise. The noise went away with reapplying the throttle.

Brakes felt lacking, as mentioned in the other thread. They worked ok, but i wouldnt like to have to stop quickly in it. So i'll need to strip the brakes down and check the pistons and sliders etc.

Achieved 15mpg on petrol. Not tooo bad i guess, but need to get the LPG system sorted out!

That was overnight. I guess as long as its not indicative of a fault i can ignore it. Other more important issues to concentrate on!

yeh it took a good 20-30 seconds for the TC light to go out and the pump kept running for a bit longer.

Had it out on the motorway today and they're definately lacking. Will have to strip things down and investigate!

RutlandRover wrote:

Are they determining left/right relative to sitting in the driver's seat or standing at the front looking the vehicle?

Its always relative to sitting in the drivers seat looking forwards.

The right side of your body doesnt change if someones looking at the front of you, does it ;)