So theres an "overlap" setting. On the old map it was set to 0.1s, on the current map its set to 2s
i'll try turning it down and see what happens!
Need to source more LPG though, the red low level light keeps flickering on and off!
yep figured that out, 5-0v is correct.
The injectors are Valtek type 30's. The only options in the software were biagotti and biagotti fast.
I took a punt and set it to Biagotti FAST, re-ran the calibration and it all worked perfectly...
Theres a strange stumble when it first switches, i might take another look over the settings for change over see if i can improve that.
Otherwise it drives pretty much perfectly once on gas :)
Right really starting to struggle with this now...
Temp sensor is fixed and reads properly.
Nozzles are drilled out and reinstalled and everything is hooked back up.
Started it on petrol, ran it up to temperature and tried an autocalibrate. However it clearly doesnt work properly. As it performs the calibration, you see the gas inj time get slowly larger and larger, and the engine runs worse and worse. When it completed, the gas map had even larger numbers in it than before and it barely ran on gas. I also noticed the lambda values seemed to stick at 0v as soon as the gas comes online. I reset the map using the button in the config and the engine ran much better on gas, but again as soon as you run autocalibrate, it cranks all the numbers right up and runs like crap again.
In the configuration, theres a setting for lambda that has either 0-5v or 5-0v, but i'm not sure which it should be set to. It was initially set to 5-0v, and i tried 0-5v with the same result. I imagine one way the ECU sees 5v as rich and one way it sees 0v as rich, but i've no idea how it should be set. I'm guessing 0v is rich, given it seems to stick on 0v when it switches to gas.
I'm also wondering about the configuration of the injectors. The manual suggests two options for injector type, Biagotti and Biagotti fast. Its set to Biagotti, but the manual suggests 3 ohm injectors should be set to biagotti fast?
Snapped the fence post clean in two as well 🙄
It looks like we dont have any sort of classified ads section? It might be handy as i'm sure various folks on here are both looking for bits and wanting to sell bits.
Might be needing a new bumper after the wife stoved the bloody fence this morning :(
might see if i can get a UV lamp and see if there are any other signs of leaks
not tried it yet, didnt have it running this evening, was just doing bits and bobs of tidying up. If i can find the pressure switch i might just stick a meter across it and see if it shows open or closed.
Well had it into Kwikfit yesterday for alignment and AC regas. It apparently held pressure and worked fine, though i didnt actually test it myself as it was cold out by the time i picked it up.
The alignment was squiff, so it went back today to get that fixed. Been out this evening reinstalling the plenum plastics at the bottom of the windscreen and some other bits and pieces and noticed this:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0bi6n2az3dyhpri/IMG-20170621-WA0024.jpg?dl=0
Which i presume means its emptied the contents out those O rings when its heat cycled them...
Thanks. I'll see about getting the injectors drilled out, and the temp sensor hooked up and try another go at calibration!
it IS connected to the lambdas though, in live data view they're displayed and flick around showing rich and lean as you'd expect.
The fuel trim thing makes more sense, i noticed bank 2 was acting oddly, maybe i need to put that back to zero?
Sorted those screenshots, i've also uploaded the config files so maybe you can load them up and have a look? I noticed something a bit strange in the Lambda menu as well.
Original map:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/k6txepgv1egttn4/Capture-old.PNG?dl=0
Map after autotune:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gc026raujbsjn81/Capture-new.PNG?dl=0
Strange Lambda screen, what does "fuel trim bank 2" do?, and why are the sensors set to "not connected" when they were definitely showing readings on the main screen with the engine running:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/nm87rqx4saa7gvh/lambda.PNG?dl=0
Original Config:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/rulvujcw3bajejf/M43%20YMA%204.6%20RR%20new%20plugs%20rec.cb8?dl=0
Config after Autocal:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4mi9lb9f4xy690p/M43%20YMA%204.6%20RR%202.cb8?dl=0
which injector nozzles should i have been drilling out?!
I just bolted the rails on as they come out the box!
I'll try some of the things in there, thanks.
I've got a vague idea of what might be going on as well.
When i last ran the autocalibration, it was running on gas, really badly, then i pressed the button to calibrate and it got better. But i've realised that its quite likely, the STFT's were maxed out trying to get enough fuel while on gas, so while its autocalibrated, its done so with the short term trims maxed out at full enrichment...
I'm hoping i can run the calibration while on petrol, where the trims will be sensible. Going to try that maybe later on tonight.
I'm also going to connect up that temp sensor and see what happens, rather than running without it.
I managed to buy new replacement (upgraded) injectors for my GEMS engine for less than the cost of cleaning the crappy old ones.
The new ones were from a 1.4L K series engine, and were recommended as a direct replacement for the original lucas items. I have the part number somewhere.
Found a couple companies on ebay selling them from new crate engines. I presume they're buying them and then modifying the engines for kitcars or whatever and the injectors are surplus.
I suspect yours is Thor so they'll be different to mine though.
@lpgc? any ideas?
Perhaps a faulty temperature sensor or similar?
Yeh i couldnt see anything specifically broken, but that sounds likely!
I just bought cotton overbraided fuel hose, as thats what was already on there. I'm not a fan of large bore silicone for vacuum purposes. It gets soggy when it gets hot and can be sucked flat as theres no reinforcement.
Spent a good bit of time on the P38 this weekend. Weather was crap so lots of rain dodging.
Felt like lots of partially completed jobs, but progress nonetheless.
Got the steering track rod swapped out, but still need to take it and get the tracking done.
Got the LPG injectors changed as per the other thread, but not working properly.
Did some testing on the cruise control. With the pipe to the cabin blocked off, i powered the pump and ensured the pump and solenoid was working properly. All fine. Connected the cabin pipe back on and it stopped pulling a vacuum. Disconnected the pipe from the switch on the brake pedal and blocked the end and it still wouldnt pull a vacuum, so i've ordered a new length of hose and will resume testing once i get that replaced. At least i know the pump and diaphram are good.
Inspected the AC condenser, and it looked ok. A bit crusty, but no obvious corrosion at the top edges, so i hope that'll just need gas. Will find out when it goes in for alignment etc.
Dropped the engine oil and replaced with 5w40 (it had 5w30 in it that i'd put in as a bit of a flush). No issues there.
Decided to have a look at the Autobox, so dropped the sump off that, and put a new filter in and refilled with oil. Unfortunately i'm about a litre short, did the level check with the engine running and the level was just on the pip on the bottom of the dipstick. So need to get some more oil for that!
Dropped the oil out the front and rear diffs and refilled with EP90. No issues there.
I wanted to do the transfer case as well but obviously the lack of ATF knocked that on the head.
All in all a reasonable bit of progress, just annoying that theres a few things that arent finished!
Okies, so i got some time today finally, and got the LPG injectors fitted.
Couple of issues.
First of all i got the T-Piece linked above, however i notice that the resistance of the sensor is different to the original one, and there doesnt seem to be any calibration options to change the sensor within the software? Is it close enough to work ok?
I fired it up with the temp sensor disconnected, got the software working (eventually, its shonky as fk) and warmed it up a bit, then hit the gas button and let it switch over.
It ran and didnt have the horrible vibrations that it had on the old injectors, but the engine wasnt happy, wouldnt rev, Spitting and popping etc.
I noticed that the gas pressure was showing as 1.6bar, so wasnt sure what to do about turning it up as suggested earlier.
I figured it was lean due to the smaller injectors, pondered how to fix it and decided to press the autoconfig option within the software.
It asked me to rev the engine at 3000rpm for a period of time and then said it had completed the calibration. After that the engine ran much better, revved cleanly in neutral etc. However when i took it out on the road its not right. Spluttering and generally unhappy at various points in the rev range.
I compared the map before and after, and took some screenshots, i'll post them up shortly.
Any thoughts?