Answered my own question, forgot I had a good spare dunlop front spring in the attic. The collet does need to come out, easy enough once you've got a purchase on it, lifting it up with a finger nail enables a suitable tool, I used a thin steel trim removal tool that you would use to pop door cards off, and it levers out quite easily. Two O rings in there, pick type tool to hook them out or a piece of bent welding rod that I used. Wiggle the new seals in and a pencil blunt end to push them down square until they seat back into the grooves they came from. Doing it on the car will be more fiddly, I might have to bend my trim tool to fit it in as it's a bit long.

How to change them? It's the front off side, leaking around the collet outside, pipe is good, clean and home fully. Does the collet need to be removed to change these seals? New seals arrived this morning , intending to do the job in a few days when I don't need the car incase something goes wrong hahaha!

The differance in lead length is slight. I've got rears on the front, only mod, from memory, is to slit a rubber grommet or two(lenghways) and transfer them to the new sensor lead as necessary. A discreet tie wrap or two holds the grommets together or glue them.

That's it Pete.

I've seen a post somewhere where someone has found a stainless steel pie dish from ikea (iirc) that was near as dammit identical.
Bit of cutting, bit of drilling and was perfect.
I found that out after I had sand blasted mine and cut out the rot/welded in new sections. The brace is easy to knock up, fitted it all in with ss button head bolts.
Possibly landyzone? For the ikea dish mod?

Thought I had updated this, sorry.
Used, unknown condition, screen fitted into my hvac body and all is well.

I used a bit of plate steel I had lying around and cut a slot in it with a grinder.

Only a few days ago I fitted an rpi one to mine, no problems with pixels now although I had a dodgy screen with a couple of iffy pixels which the rpi didn't cure but another screen with the rpi has got it all good again.

Cheers Marty!

OK. Today I've managed to get another hvac for not much money but it's working condition are unknown AND it's off a poverty spec model but the same year, 2001, as my dhse. So it has no heated screen, seats buttons. My question if anyone knows is are all the screens the same so I could pinch the display screen out of this one and fit it in mine?

Lpgc wrote:

Wonder if some cars won't turn the heated screen on if ambient temperature is high?

Is there no way to connect an Ammeter or just listen for alternator whine?

I did wonder about ambient temperature but I'm getting voltage on/off with the switch at 28 degrees.

Think the meter is faulty, didn't get anything like your readings then I got over heated in the sun so abandoned the fiddling for now.
I tried the other features using the probes and they work just the dc amps is questionable, not tried ac amps though.
I don't cope well in the heat, brain stops working so it's best to leave it a few days I think.

Just had the time to look at this. Clamp meter set to 100 amps dc after zeroing and I'm getting nothing on either side, tried on 20a and 2a too. Checked and still got healthy voltage at the hws connectors. New windscreen or the clamp meter is faulty, bit of lunch then I'll have a think of where else I can check the clamp dc function. Battery cable positive and interior light on/off maybe?

The kit needed to do the timing chains on the diesel? Not the pump dti, got that.

Oops, messed up the quoting it seems.
My reply is the last 4 lines in the above post.

Just putting this out there...shoot me down if I'm talking cobblers!
Start the engine with door and bonnet open, let everything settle for say 5 minutes, put the clamp around the battery positive, note reading, then switch on the front screen, would that tell me the screen is then pulling a load? I'm guessing the alternator might screw that idea.
leolito wrote:

I also remember from my past woes with the heated screen, that if there is any sort of short or open circuit, the nano will highlight it in the faults, and most likely the dreaded book should pop up in the HeVAC display.
I had this for a long time and it was puzzling, until I found corrosion in the C0229 connector (the big one by the footwell), which was keeping one relay permanently engaged.
One of the first jobs I did when I got the car as a project was to cut out those blocks both sides.

Just putting this out there...shoot me down if I'm talking cobblers!
Start the engine with door and bonnet open, let everything settle for say 5 minutes, put the clamp around the battery positive, note reading, then switch on the front screen, would that tell me the screen is then pulling a load? I'm guessing the alternator might screw that idea.

Thanks, I've ordered that item.
The screen had no non working elements, it was perfect , heating wise, then nowt out of the blue. So with that instrument I've ordered I just put the clamp part around the connected cable and I'll get an amp reading of say 20amps per side ,( guessing) if the screen is heating up? Luckily I've replaced all the chewed head rusty screws with nice stainless steel ones so getting at the connections only takes around 15mins instead of the two hours the first time I had to get in there.

Back story... the hs worked great up until the last couple of frosts earlier this year but then stopped. Decided to investigate this the other day. Both relays clicked so off with the plenum (much quicker to say then do!) And a poke with a dmm showed healthy voltage at both white connectors (disconnected) using both the battery and the ground stud for the hs. The ground stud looked a tad rusty though so I went to remove the nut and the stud sheared off. I'm hoping (bear with me here, I'm keen but green with leccy stuff!) that the stud was maybe causing high resistance and therefore the becm wasn't seeing the necessary load so it wouldn't work the hs. The ground stud is the only common connection under the plenum for both sides of the hs and as they both stopped working at the same time that sounds plausible to me.
That ground stud is now all repaired and finally to my question.
How can I test that the screen is now working? I have nano and a dmm and enthusiasm but that's it.
Googling about has led me to believe that a clamp meter may be useful?
Chris

Also, I only used a wooden lollipop stick, cotton buds and contact cleaner on the copper contacts, cotton buds and contact cleaner only on the screen which came away clean anyway after removing the old ribbon.
It's all pointing to a dodgy screen methinks.