The coolent tank moves out of the way which helps a lot. Bit fiddley but no need to remove insulation.
If it stops again, carry the necessary tools/cable and jump the fuel pump relay socket terminals(ignition off) whilst observing the clear line to the fip, see if bubbles come through.
Sorry, 180ml in 10 secs.
There are a few simple things you can check.
Remove the plastic cover over the injectors and using a torch, look for diesel in the injector Wells and perished leak off pipes.
Change the fuel filter, drain it first,(remove it in situ, using a strap wrench and avoid disconnecting the fuel lines as they break easily) before fitting the new filter get a receptacle to catch the fuel and place it under where the fuel filter fits, remove the fusebox cover and battery cover , remove the fuel pump yellow relay front right and using a length of wire (ignition off) put one end of the wire into the nearest relay terminal(it's the one that has a different orientation to the other terminals) and the other to positive on the battery. You should, if the intake pump is good , get at least 200ml of fuel in 10 secs.
When checking the leak offs also have a good look at the wiring to number 4 injector for damage. Have a look for dampness around the fuel tank, the flow/return pipes on the intake pump corrode and cause air ingress and running problems too.
Anybody heard anything?
Chrisp38 wrote:
Me please.
Ta.
Assumed it was 20 sets of 3 printed?
So I'd like a latch set of 3 same as Richard please.
Me please.
Ta.
Just seen on a Facebook group we r p38s, got both sides, limited stock, one pair only per person.
Got mine set to 30mph mainly for the wife as we are riddled with fixed speed cameras round here and she isn't as observant as me.
Brake dust shields are worth a look at if the noise is whilst moving.
Received the switches today Dave.
Thanks very much, top man!
Chris
And spray both the liner and the cloth.
My attempt went reasonably well, couple of small wrinkles from trying to push it into the grab handle recesses and some finger indentations where I pressed too hard. I thought the foam backing would recover there but it didn't. Still looks good though.
If you are dropping the sunroof cassette and even if you aren't check the foam seal around the outside edge, they go thin and floppy and let in water. 2 mtrs of neoprene 20mm x 10mm foam strip and a tube of contact adhesive will sort it.
Pm sent.
Possibly. The rears came out real easy and had traces of lube on them, the fronts took me ages to get out with the hubs on the bench. The rear discs were like new too when I got her so I suspect a bit of work was carried out on the ass end, might have had new sensors just prior to being laid up 5 yrs before I rescued her. Owner had passed so I had no history and his daughter who sold it knew nothing either.
I did have the right rear wabco fail on me according to the nano not knowing at the time that rr is f left so it hadn't.
Got that little snippet off here!
I got about 8 months out of one island 4x4 one of two fitted to the front axle. The other is at 15 months still good. I got a £14 one off ebay to replace the failed island one, still good. The original wabcos had to be destroyed unfortunately, the rear wabcos are still good but I don't know how old they are as I've only had the bus 15 months.
Another possible cause is the foam water shedder/seal around the sun roof, this was the leak on mine. Because the headliner shell is fibreglass the water can run almost anywhere before you see the drips. If you search my posts you should find my repair of that foam seal, unfortunately, repair involves removing the headliner and sunroof cassette, fortunately, it's cheap to fix.
Hello and welcome from me gaffer!
Pete12345 wrote:
When I did the ball joints on mine, after having to drill out the old sensors (even though they were working), I converted the sensor holes in the hubs to slots. That way I can remove the hub next time without disturbing the sensors.
I did the same.
No, fronts are longer.