You could try removing the knee panel, kick panel, internal windscreen pillar trim,plastic sill threshold and doorcard and get inside with a torch whilst someone plays a watering can over the lower a post area door hinge and slowly working their way up to the roof.
It's the bottom of the first digit on the rhs so 16 would have the bottom of the 1 missing. Just fitted a new zebra strip from rpi engineering and followed their youtube video. Cleaned the contacts until they were spotless using contact cleaner and wooden cocktail sticks. Put it back together and the above problem, so took it apart again and found nothing wrong reassembled and the same fault.
I did the strip because in the colder weather it lost bits here and there but worked fine once warmed up or the milder drier weather arrived. I'd like to say that all the pixels were there on a warm day but I'm doubting myself now.!
Is it possible one of the copper contacts isn't quite as spotless as I thought? Or maybe I should clean the new zebra strip with contact cleaner incase that's got something on it? It came stuck to a piece of card with sellotape which came off in one piece. Run out of time today but thoughts welcome before I strip it down again hopefully tomorrow.
Brilliant!
Got replacement cam kits for both front doors. I'm intending to do the passenger door first so if I have a problem and don't get the job done then I can still use the car. My query...Will the door still shut and stay shut if I need to drive it? and will it open again when I want to carry on with the job!
My father in law is terminally ill and on occasion I have to take him to hospital at short notice and the 38 is the only car he can get in and out of without too much pain.
20 is way to warm when you have a menopausal wife !
When I tried to get a later condensor I drew a blank except a new LR one, complete with fans, for £1200! That's when I discovered the mod. £250 all new parts.
I'd get some protection under those top corners, easy to do yourself, grill and slam panel off and some closed cell foam folded over them corners, reassemble.
I actually got brain freeze on a long trip a week ago or so 😄
phazed wrote:
Chrisp38 wrote:
2001 onwards I believe, mines 2001 and needed modding. Diesel though, don't know if petrol is different.
That is interesting. Mine is a 2001 so will keep that in mind…
Still got the old shorter condenser in my scrap metal pile, if your condensor is taller than this then you have the earlier easy to obtain condensor, if its the same height as my scrap one then you'll need the early condensor AND a new compressor to condensor hose either new or used off an earlier model. Plus the easy grinder work.
From memory, the new hose is £175? Condensors around £70.
The LATER condensor is 368mm tall,all other measurements are the same. The reason you need another hose is because the fitting on the condensor is different between early/ late hoses.
2001 onwards I believe, mines 2001 and needed modding. Diesel though, don't know if petrol is different.
Condensors for late models are unavailable but you can fit the earlier taller one which involves a small mod to the car with a grinder and a new compressor to condensor hose, island 4x4 do both .
Weirdly, on mine, the sides were good but the fabrication with the 'pin(s)' that locate into the rear chassis longitudinals were rotted away. I made new ones for there, reusing the pins. The steel bumper itself is very thick and when I got the car it looked scrap but after removing it (that was a feat!) and a shot blasting it was still solid. The side extensions I would have fabricated something if they were scrap.
Oh,...and I'm assuming lazy locking is the correct terminology for closing all the windows when the lock button on the fob is held down. Lol.
Do all p38s have it? My friends doesn't so I was wondering if it just wants enabling in the becm which I can do with nanocom?
Fitted them and all good except they were rears not fronts, not enough rubber trumpets to locate. Ebay sensor robbed of its rubbers so that sorted that.
Cheers Richard. I will investigate further when I can pin him down.
My AC works great BTW after fitting the earlier condensor replacing my unobtainable later one, never had a car with AC before and its bloody lovely especially as I don't cope well in the heat.
I was pondering mainly because his AC doesn't work, kwikfit gassed it last year but no cold. I had a little play with limited knowledge and his clutch pulls in when directly energised , relay swopped, no difference. It was last year when I did this so I'm unsure of what I actually did but I ' think' there was no power to the relay but unsure now, bloody memory!
I wonder, think I've read somewhere too, that earlier hvac isn't compatible to late hvac in relation to AC ?? His car is 2001.
If I get to fiddle again , is there a flow chart for AC I could follow, got dmm and nano but a bit wet behind the ears if it gets too techy.
I think romanrob did something on landyzone but I can't find it.
I can take the battery on and off mine with no issues as a previous owner must have had stuff turned off in the becm. Anywhoo, it's only a couple of bolts holding the battery box in from memory and you'll have lots more room with that out.
Just pondering really. A friend has a 2001 bordoux although it's not spelt like that I don't think. Mine is dhse so has heated seats, leccy seats, heated front windscreen etc. His has non of this and never has but his hvac has all the buttons for these features same as mine. Would LR fit the same panel regardless? Or his is a replacement from a breaker because the original failed?
Are you thinking of martys switch pack repairs? I've not seen an article about hvac button repairs but I'm a newbie! My hvac buttons seem to be sluggish (to me) but I've nowt to compare them to.
Got to remove mine at some point to do the Rippon thing, works fine except when the weather is cold and damp.
Had a bit of luck and scored 2 wabco fronts off a breaker. Got to fit them still to check they are OK.