Reasonable price probably not. From about £220 for a set of four genuine ones. Britpart a little cheaper I think. Do a search for STC8535 front pair, STC8536 rear single exhaust or STC7703 rear twin exhaust. Watch out for VAT include / not included prices and Britpart / Land Rover variants. LR Direct offer OEM too at in-between prices. Also check if the fixing kit is included.
Breakers aren't really worth it. Steel parts inside rust out so odds are anything used is coming towards the end of its natural life. It looks as if you can remove the remains of the old metalwork and re-work things but life is too short!
Yet another one of those do it once, do it right and forget about it things. Unless you get lucky.
Clive
Mark
PM me your E-Mail and I'll send it over. Be warned its, ahem, comprehensive! I bought the Laser Tools kit that doesn't fit the P38 and did a re-worked version that would fit and drew out all the parts. Most of which aren't needed if you use a press rather than a pull screw.
Clive
Surprised that LR didn't have one of those small O rings. Britcar list it in both Brit-Part and Land Rover versions. Looney tunes price, about £5 and £8, but I guess its not a common size. Which is odd as one would have expected it to be used on "lots" of air con compressors.
Forgot to mention that the Rovers North site page I linked to https://www.roversnorth.com/category/696_range_rover_p38a_99_02_heater_air_conditioning comes back with the correct part number if you click in the lists.
I remember stealing a list of sizes from somewhere at least partially annotated against part number but thats another thing lost in computer-space.
Had a re-organise & sort out a couple or three years back and lost some useful stuff.
Clive
Judging by my experience with the tool I made having a support tube above the taper bearing race will ensure that the bush does go in straight. My version only has a short parallel lead in and will try to slip sideways a bit if the bush isn't properly lined up. All pulls straight as it goes through the taper though. With 20-20 hindsight I'd have made the parallel bit longer.
But thats with a press pushing from the top.
If you are pulling it through with a bolt or stud it will have some self aligning capability so long as its reasonably close to true as it enters the taper race. Personally I'd bore a tube with the requisite diameters and push the race into the bottom with about an inch of straight bore above to keep the bush straight. Bit less to worry about holding in place. All those washers would drive me nuts!
Bottom line is that it clearly does come into alignment when just pulling through the race but a bit of extra support will make life easier.
Mark
My press is nominal 12 tons, Chinesium bottle jack power so what it really is I hesitate to guess, and that pushes them in easily. But, with my version of the tool, you can feel the bush settling into alignment as it enters the taper. I'd not care to use the naked bearing race and stack of washers in a press. Too many loose parts and the bend in the arm makes it much harder to keep things dead straight. Frankly if I were doing a bunch I'd add some bits to my 12 ton hydraulic puller kit so I could take the press to the radius arm rather than the arm to the press.
Do you want the pdf of drawings for my kit?
Clive
Bummer. Devitt rushed me £126 for my Norton Commander Rotary. Officially 588 cc so counts as 600. So being an old 'un doesn't always work out. Looks like I should have done bit of searching for a better deal. But mines has the Supreme Commander modification set by Richard Negus which is pretty major, basically replacement of all suspension and running gear plus significant other stuff, and it gets tedious explaining whats been done. Discrepancy between book value £2,000 - £3,000 and replacement value or £12,000 or so!
But I wanted it right for its second 100,000 miles. Alternative being to buy a Beemer and they can't even make fuel gauge senders that work properly!
oilmagnet477 Actually my threshold for searching new deals / switching et al for pretty much everything is £1 a week. Your £50 near enough. When dealing with that size of difference straight off a comparison site it usually seems possible to get an even better offer. What I found with the small differences was that after a fair bit of effort getting a quote for near enough exactly the same thing any differential had seriously dwindled. Original £15 or so down to £5 or less. Leaving aside the "who they?" names for exactly the same trust issues that RutlandRover has.
Of course folk like the AA are brokers not insurance companies. I'm pretty sure that they have effectively fixed costs for the actual insurance bit and set their "broker fee" by what they think the customer can be euchred out of. Which is why they are usually pretty outrageous and why they are so keen to re-negotiate. Colour me cynical but such is the inevitable endpoint of companies run for the money rather than to do the job normal folk expect by political types focused on exploiting internal rules for their next bonus and next promotion. You can just see the bonus / promotion points system -2 for loosing a customer, 1 per pound up to a £20 fee, double points above that and a gold star if you screw them out of more than £100. All the real insurance companies use similar risk assessment algorithms so the real insurance figures won't vary much. Its all down to exploiting the customer profile. Maximum profit being by charging high for low risk customers.
Clive
I've heard form others that Direct Line get expensive if you keep renewing yet I'm on my 5 th year with them and have always found the renewal quote to be within £10 or £15 of the cheapest from comparison sites. Usually if I bother to go through the details and get exactly the same coverage the difference is less or even comes out more expensive.
Shuffling around for so little every year comes under the life is too short thing. £240 fully comp this time round. Went to them after getting a £150 hike, basically doubling cost, from Lancaster! Tried the challenge and they wouldn't budge.
Thing I really don't understand is why the experience is so different for different people. Some folks get hit by silly hikes, some folks can get them to shift and some, like me, get a deal they can live with almost every year
Clive
This diagram and annotations might help sort out what goes where : https://www.roversnorth.com/category/696_range_rover_p38a_99_02_heater_air_conditioning
Not the easiest to interpret or read but combining the picture, numbers and the listing should get you there.
When I did my condenser I found a similar but better one somewhere else. Thought I'd downloaded it but seems to be lost in comouterspace at the moment.
I got one of the E-Bay green O ring kits but ended up buying at least some official Land Rover ones. Probably from Brit-Car. Don't recall which ones. Of course my kit might have been different to the one you are looking at anyway.
Past my bedtime. I'll have a look tomorrow.
Clive
The O ring kit I have is by Toolzone, part number HW019. I was sure that I bought at least one original O ring from BritCar when I did the condenser and drier change back in 2016 but, unusually for me, I can't find any records. Obviously being sloppy then as even the condenser itself isn't in the Excel expenditure file for that year.
When I had mine done (twice) by the local National Aircon people the young lady doing the job also didn't run the engine during filling. She just evacuated the system, did the nitrogen check for leaks and re-filled it. The we started it up and verified that it came down to temperature as per RAVE. She said it was interesting to have the official manual to do the right checks.
Also reckoned that underfilling is bad for the system. Told me that on an older car its a good idea to do a re-fill every 3 years or so even if the A/C still seems to be working OK as an older system will very slowly loose gas.
Not impressed by Halfords, Kwikfit or garages with a machine in the corner and a certificate on the wall. Guaranteed underfill. Especially on a high volume system like the P38. She said that frequently you just get a standard amount shoved in, maybe choice of small system or large and thats it. Certainly when Halfords did mine the first time they under-filled it as the fill lasted about 6 months. Her full fill lasted about 18 months and confirmed I had an intsy bitsy teeny weeny leak that wasn't properly showing up under test. But the fill had the UV indicator stuff in it so sufficient traces were left to confirm a leak.
Clive
Thats a piss take! Sounds like they are quoting for all four wheels on an L322 where, notoriously, nothing wants to move. Especially at the back! Even then its top end.
£30 to £50 seems to be fairly typical. Maybe this website is worth a try :- https://bookmygarage.com/blog/wheel-alignment-cost/
Think I'd want to be sure that things are pretty much right before trying the DiY laser kit. All this sort of thing is so much easier when you know what a good one looks like. Small errors will probably be fairly easy to handle and understand but if its got weird issues ...
Clive
Island listing for Boge fronts is OEM as in Original Equipment Manufacturer. Which doesn't necessarily mean original factory specifications.
I bought both front and rear Boge OEM from Island a couple of years or so back. I'm unconvinced that they are made to the original factory specifications although thats obviously a very difficult thing to assess when comparing old, factory, shockers with new ones.
Best I can say is that the damping doesn't seem quite matched to air springs. Air springs being inherently variable rate I'd have expected some shim stack differences to cope with the rate variation as opposed to the linear rate of coil springs. These sometimes feel caught out by spring rate changes on decent suspension excursions leading me to suspect that the shim stack, or equivalent damping control, is expecting a linear rate.
That said my main previous experience with air suspension was with Fournales motorcycle units which are much smaller volume and operate at higher pressures than the Range Rover system so have significantly more change of rate with travel. Poncing about with the pressure was good education in why damping has to be matched to spring rates and loads. I was never convinced that Fournales actually knew what they were doing when it came to road applications. An expensive lesson in not to believe the hype!
The damping action of my Boge OEM shocks sometimes feels a bit reminiscent of the Founales motorcycle ones when the baseline pressure didn't match what the damping side of things liked best.
Clive
Although its not supposed to be necessary with live axles both ends its probably worth forking out for a Hunter or similar four wheel alignment check just in case there is something seriously weird going on. Allegedly many KwikFit branches have Hunter equipment and will do the test for free. Not sure that I'd trust them to adjust things tho'.
Unlikely to be anything odd but I'm prejudiced mostly because pretty much everything folks bring me to fix or diagnose is odd.
Clive
Fortunately there is just enough room to get between the radius arm and the mounting to cut through the centre bush and bolt. Still leaves you with a thin "washer" holding the bolt head end on so the head end has to be bashed out.
One of many times when I really, really wished for a proper full lift hoist. In the process of putting a scissors one in the garage but only 12 ft ceiling so it won't go right up. But better than 16" on the ramps.
Clive
Trying to undo the seized ones on mine just ripped the centre bushes out of the rubber. So bush and bolt turned together. Only option was to cut.
Out of curiosity I tried extracting one of the cut off bolts from the centre bushes. 12 ton ram didn't budge them. So corroded together good and proper.
Next time if they don't pretty much come straight out I'll be cutting. No point in wasting time struggling for half an hour and still ending up having to cut. Find that the older I get the quicker I reach for the saw or grinder.
Clive
Genuines are alloy. Plenty thick enough in the wall not to crush. If bolt is not coated with copperslip or stubborn grease intermetallic corrosion between steel bolt and alloy centre tube will lock things solid. Modern bolt plating is inferior to what was used in the factory build. I'd have the grinder out and ready for anything thats been in there over 5 years! Might come out OK, might not.
Clive
Concerning the bush compressor insertion tool sizes mine goes from 69 mm Ø at the large end to 58.8 mm Ø at the small end. Taper section is about 16 mm long, angle approximately 6°. About 6 mm of parallel section at both ends. Whole thing is just under 30 mm long. I made it by boring through to small end diameter, adding a 6 mm deep recess at the large end size there cutting the taper until it ran out of the small end diameter. I didn't really bother control the depth of the parallel parts.
Its arguable that the plain big end diameter would be better made longer to give more support to the bush when first loaded. Might be easier to push bush through if the taper were made shallower and longer too. Made the length it was 'cos I couldn't be faffed to set up a longer boring tool. But it works well enough.
Clive
Hi Rob
PM me your E-Mail address and I'll send it all over along with the dimensions for the height sensor arm pivot pin. I make new stainless steel pivot pins as a matter of course. So far out of 3 sets of radius arm re-bushing jobs I've found two pins so badly corroded that the arm pivot wouldn't move any sense, two that were still free but well rust pitted and two that were, by garage standards OK to re-use. So looks to be a reasonable chance of finding unserviceable ones. By my standards all I found were useless but I'm an Inspector Meticulous type given half a chance.
My drawings cover more than you need if you do have access to a press. Although a force screw works its darn hard work. Press is far better.
Clive
Thanks for the help. Great link to the group test puts things into perspective.
Gotta admit that these high capacity small packs scare me. 20 year old Clive spent an "interesting" month doing load / power delivery tests on thermal batteries. Having both battery and load glowing red hot on the bench in front of you after a 5 minute full load discharge test rather makes the point about high current issues. 5 minutes being always long enough for an anti-tank missile.
Naturally having got it all together Her ladyship has changed her mind! She is going to take the battery off over winter and keep it in the flat hooked up to a maintaining charger.
Wimmin.
Still think I might get one for me tho'.
Clive
Thanks for that information. Pretty much what I expected so gonna be pot luck. Decisions, decisions!
£35 cheapy or £80 for one with a separate 12 volt power bank output off t'Bay. Or wait until next time round at LiDL as their Ultimate Speed branded one looks adequate VFM with a warranty. Certainly the little LiDL battery chargers are quite decent. Always bit of crap-shoot for boy-toy things out of LiDL. The good stuff is more than decent, especially given the price, but the not so good usually re-defines horrible.
On the bricks and mortar side EuroCar have an offering and Halfrauds list several, albeit the apparently decent ones seem expensive and not on shelf at the nearest branch.
Clive
Kev
I bought a spare set of radius arms for about £20 locally to rebush and exchange for mine so if you are doing your own the cost probably isn't a game changer.
I made my own tool-kit after the Laser Tools offering proved not to fit the P38! If you know someone with a lathe I can send you drawings. 8 pages worth! But thats for a comprehensive tool set using a threaded pull rod. If you have a press and one of the cheap chinee universal bush removal sets you probably only need to make the compression tube. Still need the drawings to verify that you have the right sizes of pressing tubes tho'. I used my set once with the threaded pull rod to prove the point then did the other bushes in the press. Much easier.
Clive