As the CVC is done and the rest of the small fleet have had a service, the lift in the garage is available if anyone needs needs it for anything. Preferably not a two year rebuild!
I'm in Surrey near Dorking. I have a Nanocom too.
I've already embarrased myself by asking where the OBD is. If it is the same as a 94 petrol one it is on the left side near the tunnel but further towards the bulkhead than you would think.
One other thought. The insurers covered the rear screen under windscreen cover. Not sure why but might be worth checking.
When mine broke it took a fair while to get all the bits of old glass and the adhesive out. iI's pretty hardwork to remove so I just got the autoglass boys to replace it with a Pilkington one. I really don't think it is feasible to remove an old one. Maybe with a recip saw but, worth the effort?
Well, I've been made an offer I can't refuse.
I'm a bit conflicted as I've enjoyed doing the work and deeply indebted to everyone here for the advice and help. When I started I didn't realise what an undertaking it was going to be.
Some people may condemn the thought of just selling it on but I'm not one for sitting in a field at a show and what do you do with it. I wouldn't want to park it in town or bury it up to the axles offroad and if someone wants it for a collection then I think that is the best place for it. I don't have room for a collection.
I'll have a lie down in a darkened room for a while and maybe tackle one just to use.
The price it is up at is not what I will get and I may just cover my costs without costing in the labour so it's been fun to do - most of the time.
This forum has saved my sanity and answered my more ridiculous questions with kindness and authority. Thank you all.
https://www.graemehunt.com/inventory/615/1994-range-rover-p38a-cvc
This may help. A bit of an odd angle. Probably going to need to drill out the bolts too.
Finally I concluded that yes they can all leak. In spite of cutting back each connection to fresh tube it still dropped.
Replaced all the air lines with new Tricoflex and it it looks fine - so far.
Get's up to pressure in good time and holds to levels overnight.
Moral is don't buy used air line sets thinking it will be easier to fit.
OK, thanks Richard.
I've replaced the whole valve block with a secondhand one from Paul and things have improved.
It holds pressure for longer - not perfect - but no warning messages and over night it takes about three minutes for the access light to go out and normal height light to stay on.
Is three minutes reasonable?
Thanks as always.
NRV's all fine with new mini O rings. They bobbed up and down in their housings and I checked and rechecked I had them in the right order.
With all the O rings checked and checked again. They are all Viton and a new diaphragm valve installed it is still dropping on all corners. Door open and fuse 44 removed.
I can't feel any air coming out of the exhaust silencer port.
After 2 hours it is dropping:-
FR 20mm RR 25mm FL 45mm RL 50mm
I'm out of ideas.
Checking after one hour from fully charged on standard height setting the drops are:-
right front 30mm right rear 25mm left front 40mm and left rear 45mm
They can't all be leaking can they? I cant hear any air escaping and the air bags look in good condition.
Still to check the solenoid bases again.
Thanks Richard. I did check the O ring on the solenoid base and it looked OK. I'll try the bubble test and pulling the fuse and check with the Nano.
When I first connected up the secondhand pipe work for the EAS there were a couple of obvious leaks.
As part of the restoration I rebuilt the valve block and compressor with new O rings etc.
I followed the useful guidance on this link when testing the setup.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/files-1089/EAS20-20Beginers2028Rev29.pdf
Initially the RH front corner dropped overnight.
I went through the test sequence and found that testing just line 6 to the reservoir, the compressor cut out at 4 bar. I presumed it was a faulty presure switch but tested the compressor just on the front right line. It went easily up to 11 bar and cut out as it should. Pressure held for 15 minutes.
Yesterday I reconnected every line and it took 8 minutes to settle at standard height from completely empty and the compressor to cut out. I opened the drivers door to stop it settling but this morning it is down 100mm on each corner.
There are no faults showing and it took a couple of minutes to settle at standard height and the compressor ran for 5 minutes.
Is this within acceptable limits?
Thanks as always.
If you really want to be totally original with the A-E post trims on early cars then Thomas and Vines do a good job.
On Richard's recommendation I have just fitted a new Y pipe from Maltings to the CVC and it feels good quality and fitted without any problem.
https://www.maltingsoffroad.co.uk
All sorted now. Took the motor off and checked the spindle which seemed quite movable and just switched it over to face the other way. The motor went back on without any spring loading. Refilled with fully synthetic ATF. New neutral sensor wriggled into place on the gearbox remote housing.
Sat in, clutch down, in neutral and motor switched from high to low without hesitation.
One less thing to deal with!
The new Y piece has arrived with warnings to check why the old one failed. The old one was the original so hadn't done badly but I checked all the plugs in case there was something else and the left bank were a bit more sooty than the right bank. Not sure how one could change that. It wasn't too bad just on the outer of the plug. The centre was pale brown.
The Lambda sensor was quite sooty on that side too.
I've seen in the manual something about putting in fuse 11 to get it into neutral.
Thanks Richard.
it is a strong spring so I'll have to take the temperatiure sensor off too to get it off. I'll check the drive shaft once it is off.