What you can see on the panel is the remains of the foam which all has to come off. Just use something like a thin wide bladed scraper. Something a bit flexible and take the sticky mess off in bands.

On the motor bit on mine when it wouldn't pick up the drive I rotated the key way anticlockwise and it dropped in but just move it too and fro until it catches. I found it is just a matter of experimenting.

Someone else may have more experience of setting the motor up correctly.

Just one of the stick on balance weights. The wheels were balanced without being put back on the car so only found out now.

The answer!!

Just before I decided that it must be the diff I tried the LH road wheel which was fine and then went back to the RH road wheel and just happened to see a balance weight dragged across the inside face of the wheel where it had caught on the caliper!

Thanks Mad-as.

It will only assemble one way. However with the propshat disconnected and both front wheels off the ground A wheel will rotate nearly one full turn and then goes stiff and after really pulling the wheel round it eases up and then another notchy patch and then a full turn again.
I haven't touched the diffs at all.

Thanks Dave.

I'll try setting it up today.

There a two ways to explain this.

One is to say that I found a loose connection and it's all fine now or...

I could tell the truth. The right rear snsor was upside down. How can you be that stupid!!

Thanks for all your thoughts. I'm glad I don't venture onto the dark side. I can't imagine what they would say. It least you only just think it.

That's very useful. Thanks Richard.

No shorts to ground.

Fitted a replacement ECU and the right rear has improved from 6 to 8

I'm missing something. Just not sure what. Probably something simple.

The CVC has been for its first drive out of the garage and into the drive.

Engine running smoothly but there is something binding.

It feels like oval brake drums with an on/off feeling. I've slackened the hand brake right off thinking it might be that but there is no change.

I've looked at the propshaft couplings and they seem to be in line although I have replaced the rear pinion oil seal with a complete new flange so cannot line up marks on that.

I'm reluctant to drive it any faster as it doesn't feel right.

Gearbox and Transfer case were rebuilt by Hardy Engineering.

That looks good. The only additional items are the other two pillar trims. Behind the front doors and back doors. When I said A-E i really meant all the pillar trims.

The two fir trees may not be used on later cars.

Good luck. It's not as bad as it sounds.

Haven't checked for short to ground.

I'll try tthat and then see if Paul in Rusper has a good one.

I would still be staring at a pile of bits without everyones help.

Many thanks for keeping it running Gordon.

I've checked continuity from all three connections from the rear right height sensor to the pins on the EAS ECM connector.
BK to 24
OR to 20
ON to 22

They all have a resistance of about .5 ohm

The actual sensor seems fine and was working on the other side.

Still shows a value of 6 on the Nanocom

Not sure where next. Try a different ECM?

Swopped the two rear height sensors and still got 6/7 showing on the right rear height. It will move up and down but the reading doesn't change.

Thanks Richard.

i'll have search tomorrow.

Thanks Richard.

Would Acetal work instead of Nylon? Seems more available around here.

Yes, sitting on the ramp. They were taken with just the ignition on 2 and not started. I'll find the broom handle. What do you think of the right rear reading? I might try swopping right to left.

Playing with the RSW software and getting these results on high setting.

The rear right sensor is showing as signal incorrect which seems reasonable as it is stuck on 7

I've put a meter on the sensor and it does show a change in resistance but varies quite a bit. Is it worth getting a secondhand one or just go for new?

Do the saved values look reasonable?

Thanks.

Success!!

Wires duly soldered as per instructions. Knees gradually recovering.

Both Nanocom and the EASUnlock are chatting away to the EAS ECM. Not in a language I understand yet so that's the next stage.

If you use the Martrim supplied adhesive, as I did, it comes out of the can as a sort of spider's web so it doesn't sink into the foam. Once both the foam and the board are covered and allowed to dry then you can lay the fabric on but take care to ease it into the depressions for visors etc as you go.

Others will know better about the alarm.