Just a thought to salve your conscience regarding the insurance company.

One could say that the adhesive holding the screen is part of the screen structure and as it has failed it makes screen liable to detach and therefore the vehicle is dangerous to drive and a replacement is required.

Having seen a windscreen replaced on mine I wouldn't attempt it. Do make sure it is a Pilkington one though. They make the LR ones without the exorbitant price. Pattern parts are not great quality.

Hi Pierre,

you will need to take off the A-E post trims wich are held on by clips which locate into holes in the body. They do pop off but they can need a bit of effort and on mine some broke off leaving the clip in the body. It's not a big deal as they can be araldited back on once they have been retirrieved from the body. There are two press in clips at the rear as well into the roof. Also ease off the door rubbers and tailgate rubber. There might be something else I've forgotten but someone else will probably pick it up.

Hi Pierre,

no they clip over the edge and you have to trim the fabric back to allow them to sit tight on the board. Then when you go to put it back in they all fly off again.
If the whole cassette is out it might be easier I suppose but if you follow the workshop manual you have to mess around with the track that the roof runs in and then it gets out of sync on the cable etc. etc.
Ask me how I know!

Pierre, the springs are a nightmare to keep in place and because of the thickness of the new fabric it fills the channel that it runs in. Maybe in a few years the foam will compress but really I don't think it's an issue.

The offending item lives behind the LH lower A post trim.
The second picture shows the metal bracket immediately below the glove box.
You can just see the lower fixings for the glove box, which are a subject for "why land rover why" in that there are two loose square nuts that fit in a channel and can only be reached with one finger while you try and hold the glove box in place!
Fortunately the glove box doesn't need to be touched ,just the lower kick panel.
As you crane your neck round the back of the bracket there are two connectors clipped to the frame. The one with the 18 way connector is the villain.

The first picture shows the cover turned round for clarity. and upside down.

Thanks Dave, as it's all a bit gnarly I think I'll put a new plug and socket on. Molex seem to do some and would only need a 12 way.

If you are determined to use the spring clips I have some that you are more than welcome to for free. Having reinstalled mine firstly with the clips and then without the clips it runs more smoothly without and a lot less trouble to fit.

Progress!

Ran the checks that Richard suggested and they were ok but thought I should look for the c102/202 connection as I hadn't seen it when I had the dash out. Looked and looked and finally spotted it at the back of another connector tucked away in the L hand corner.

This may have something to do with the problem.

Next question. As one of the contacts has virtually disappeared what is the best way of reconnecting this lot?

Thanks Richard. I'll get the meter out.

Tried the Nanocm again but no joy.

Having found the right driver for the dragon diagnostics cable and adapter for EASUnlock I can get it to connect on com port 3.

It starts to intialize but on the rx buffer just get rolling reports of 80 and 26. Looking at the troubleshooting guide it refers to 80 and 28 as failures to sync. Followed the resync process a few times with the same result.

I am reluctant to admit defeat but I think I need professional help on this now unless anyone has any other suggestions.

Of course it is! Been locked down too long.

It's usually just that the adhesive as aged and parted company with the panel. On mine it was dry and dusty on the sunroof panel under the fabric.

The main panel had quite a paste on it which took a bit of getting off.

Thanks Brian. I have given all the contacts a good shot of contact cleaner. I've taken the kick panel off and released the OBD so that I'm sure of a decent connection.

The Nanocom is now refusing to speak to the EAS and just freezes. All the other functions work and I have read elsewhere that this can happen. I have an EASUnlock cable I purchased a couple of years back so I will give that a try.

Harv and Richard are quite right that it is not necessary to remove the glass even though the manual says to do so. If you can pop the panel out it will save a lot of grief. In the end I removed the whole cassette and then the sliding panel can be removed from above but you do need two for that. The spring clips are a pain to fit and as Richard says they are not necessary if the material is wrapped round the panel.

Pierre, just to add my two pennyworth. As others will know I am the least competent member of this group but I managed to make a pretty reasonable job of doing my own headlining. It is easier without seats in but still doable with them in. The only part you need help with is laying on the new lining after both the fabric and board have been glued.
Martrim supplied my fabric and adhesive and will supply free samples.

Thank you Gordon. That looks a lot more legible.

Sorry those figures got jumbled relative to the heading somehow.

All the leaks sorted now and having a play with the Nanocom.

Taking just one set of data on Standard Height I have these readings:-

         Stored                             Current         Measured from arch

Front L     129                                  71                      475mm
Front R     117                                 120                      460mm
Rear L      117                                 108                      460mm
Rear R      110                                   6                      440mm

Going to target heights it will show levelling but nothing happens and then goes dormant.

I'm missing something but not sure what.

It is on a level surface.

The car has turned into Hissing Sid! New seal sorted the air dryer leak .
As it had been partially reconverted from coils I had to find new pipework. All the pipe work was secondhand from a chap in Latvia who seemed to be the only one able to supply any pipework.
Found two leaks in the least convenient place obvs, over the chassis and next to the exhaust silencer. One going to the reservoir and the other going to R rear. I ordered one coupling which sorted the reservoir leak.
Have now ordered two more connectors as there will probably be another leak somewhere..
The front rose up magnificently but the L rear remained resolutely stuck down although the air bag felt quite taut. Will have another play around with it when the parts arrive.