With police vehicles it's the same as policemen themselves: they are above the law...
This is what I found (let's see if this works)👍
I use a 16mm impact socket, those are 6 sided and won't break. Have a helper to keep it exact vertical on the bolthead so you can concentrate on the breakerbar.
Rave advices to follow the torque sequence in reversed order.
As for the pollencovers, how often to renew the filters, once a year?
I have sealed them with silicone since heavy rain is becoming more common over here, next year I will cut them open with a knife and re-seal them again.
If you are undoing the manifolds with the heads still on you will need a 12mm 12 hex socket (thin wall freferably) and work your way from front to rear.
The manifold is devided into two pieces with a flex in between, undo first cyl. nrs 2 and 4, lift the frontpart a bit up to reach the bolts of cyl. 6.
Happy wrenching!
All true, I have only those heatshieldbolts mounted which I can easily reach (no rattle) so remove outer shield, loosen 6 hex copper studs and the innershield lowers a bit to reach lower headbolts.
Those tiny bolts are done/undone a few times so no rust is present ha ha.
Yes he is very extensive and accurate in his report.
One thing I noticed, he removed the steering intermediate shaft. That is only for RHD vehicles, lefthookers can leave it in place.
And next time I do the headsremoval I will try to leave the exhaustmanifolds attached to the head and remove them on the bench, just undo the downpipes and lift the heads plus manifold as a whole.
Saves your knuckles and is easier to torque when installing.
Ha Ha could you please tel those expectations to our pavement stone guys to make a street level.
My street is below sealevel, the neighbourhood was made in 1978, before that is was a sort of swamp/meadow.
Two years ago they calculated that the streetlevel had sunk 20 cm and topped it up again so we are constantly moving. For that reason they don't make tarmac in neigbourhoods over here but lay brickstones. Tarmac that holds lorries needs a meter of gravel/stones as basis so don't be surprised when the street isn't level.
Thanks OB, I'm going to make them from wood. Need a level floor though...
So that is not to worry. About the 4-pin relay I've heard of and keep that in mind.
About the non-original rideheights I think some PO has put it higher on it's springs which to me is cosmetic BS when you have standard size tyres.
I already lowered it a bit via the unlocksuite, I'm still searching for Original settings and fabricating a sort of verniercaliper to measure exact beween axlecentre and wheelarch.
Thanks guys.
When I leave my 2000 4.6 for a couple of days there is a slight lowering of the bags in general, usually an inch or two.
Now and then I hear pft-pft which happens with engine running and not running, only when running it pumps itself up again and the 'pft-pft' starts again.
To take proof of the pudding I took out the timer relay and went on holiday for two weeks, today we came back and it stood on all corners exactly the way I left it.
This tells me that the bags and connections are not leaking but does that include the valveblock? Is the leveling only caused by not level parking or can O rings be leaking?
Is the heightsetting, no doubt they are not standard anymore, the cause?
Feel free to comment on this.
Good you mention it George. Funny thing is (well funny?) the different brands show different dimensions in their offers, LR measures 14x58x85 cm while most others measure 10x67x90 cm. so wider and higher but thinner.
We'll see how things go, first we are off for two weeks Spanish sunshine!
Slowly working my way through the list of issues I had the AC system pressure tested yesterday.
A loud hiss from under the slampanel showed a leaking condenser, indeed from under the sponge.
Ordered a no-brand from Germany but I think it is Hella for €95.- incl. p+p.
Not a bad deal I think.
I Always know where my magnetic pen is. Learned my lesson when mounting the 4 tiny bolts of the ignition coils. One of them moved under the inlet manifold and on top of that large gasket.
Thank you Rayodunne for your specs, it saves me finding out.
As for the brakeline mountings I still have some stuff from my former Classic lying around, they are already metric and the pipes itself I can bend them myself including flaring.
But first investigate what needs to be done, thanks for the info.
So if I buy them history is going to repeat itself ha ha
Googled it, I don't have such a set but I might be able to buy the right size bit and work it out.
Sorry guys, haven't been on here for a few days and there is no notifying thing.
I'll take all good advice and see what needs to be done. The latest MOT was without comment so I expect the brakehoses to be OK with no cracks but I will check that.
Just curious, what is a crows foot spanner?
Thanks a lot,
Tony.
That's what I thought Richard, I'll go that route and when time comes front will be done.
Thanks.
In my view point 2 of OB's explanation of Rave to clear the bleeding pipe before filling is because the vertical difference in height of the tank, top of engine and top of radiator is so little that any left coolant in that pipe will distort the flow-through during filling with engine off.
The neck of the tank is just barely above those levels so that's the level to start with. Give it time to flow through the engine before starting.
Last time I popped the tank out of it's bracket to gain some height.
Then, when staring up the level will drop, keep it at cold level untill it rises again (tophose becomes warm, stat opens) and stop the engine to cool down.
Don't wait untill you feel the hose becoming nice hot or when the meter is in the middle, stop the engine earlier.
When cooled down fill up to cold level and tighten cap. (I whish it had, like my old Classic, a pipe over the heads with a bleed plug).
Edit: crosspost with Spiggy!
