I need new rear brakediscs, that is the rears have the most grooves compared to front.
Looking at Islands4x4 there are some options, beforehand I was told in the past to avoid anything that comes in a blue box so I can rule them out.
Two options draw my attention:
The Delphi rear set for £54,16 including pads
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/rear-discs-axle-delphi-sdb000470ap-sfp500130ap-p-18224.html
or the Terrafirma set of 4 drilled and grooved for £94,99 but without pads
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/brake-disc-drilled-grooved-ntc8780cdg-sdb000470cdg-p-28661.html
In case I want to renew the fronts at least now I have the same brand front and rear but still have to choose pads.
Q.: Do I need drilled and grooved discs? I want firm brakes that don't easily fade, especially when going downhill. Padwear is not such an issue, just renew when they need to.
If I can do with the Delphi rears I have some time to save for the fronts.
What are your opinions?
reg. Tony.
Yes Richard I know about the adapter.
Last week I hired a large trailer to pick up a dismantled shed for our son's backyard. That trailer had a 13 pin plug and the hiring company gave me the adapter with it.
On a sharp turn the trailerbeam hit the longer plug/adapter and as you can guess it knackered my socket, so that's why I asked the question.
Life isn't always easy but thank you for the idea.
Tony.
That's a good idea Sloth, just extend what I need.
In the seventies I had a Mercury full size stationwagon and a tandem axle caravan, in total a length of 13 metres on the road.
By that time there were no 13 pin sockets so I made 2x 7 pin to power the caravan, to reduce loss I ran a batterycable to the rear of the Merc and from there a bank of relays to feed the caravan.
Included a ground loop through the caravansocket that turned off the reverselights of the Merc when backing up. Ever reversed on a large French parking lot when that white wall of your caravan is perfectly lit?
In short, I know what you're saying and work on it.
Thanks.
My 2000 4.6 has a 7 pin trailersocket, originally wired.
Since more and more trailers have a 13 pin plug I want to install a 13 pin socket next to the 7 pin, there is already a blind plastic cover in the bumper.
Is there a specific loom available to plug in or do I have to fabricate one myself?
Reg. Tony.
£980,- for a new MAF? I once bought a whole Classic for that money (all that was wrong- the MAF was good)
I think my 2000 4.6 is nominating itself for Marty's doorlatch test, when unlocked the locks go 'click-clack' and it happens more and more.
When driving I push the doorbutton to lock and then it stops (most of the time) so it's time to take action.
One other thing, there seems to be a weak link in the rod system, I have read a plastic connection that wears over time and can break and makes it inpossible to manually enter the EKA code when needed.
Before I pull everything apart I would like to know what part this is so I can order and replace it by way of precaution.
Any help appreciated.
Tony.
GeorgeB wrote:
In my experience, trying to install a wife into the dashboard is a real pain, with some serious cutting to be done. All ways up, it gets messy. The only real advantage is having someone on the inside when it comes to heater o-rings, blend motors, etc. But even so...
I was going to try it but even using a small Filipina, there's not a lot of room in there. The other downside is that the Philippine watch only has hours, no in between bits, so not much use either. However it does have a handy predictive mode for the times of future occurrences which are; soon, later, after lunch and tomorrow,
No, I recommend sticking with the clock if you can.
George brilliant!
But you don't know mine, she keeps track of what I'm doing every minute of the day so she will be accurate in telling time...
Googling the Nissen partnumber shows up Citroën and Peugeot.
In France they offer for € 23,85 (Richard?)
https://www.oscaro.com/radiateur-de-chauffage-nissens-71145-801096-467-p
What I think is a designflaw is that the heater pipes/hoses have no support at all between heatercore and rockercover so all engine vibes go directly to that one tiny little screw that holds the two pipes against the core.
Shouldn't there be a firm support where the pipes go through the bulkhead?
Thanks OB for your reply.
Of course it will be worn after 16 years but a new clock costs me an arm and a leg so I opened it up.
Inside is just a VDO/Kienzle clockwork, in bulk they cost next to nothing as I have read on MB, BMW and Porsche sites but it's impossible to order at some wholesale without being directed to LR.
Oh well, I'll give it a try and if no success it's not the end of the world and ask my wife what time it is...
Tony.
What a great idea guys, this is the true pub-spirit. I won't be there because there is some 700 kms and a Channel between us but I whish I was there to help a hand and combine faces with names.
Success! Tony.
As for so many of us, my dashclock runs and stops running as it pleases.
When testing it on the bench with a spare battery for a week it did not stop running once but as soon connected in the dash it has it's own life.
The wiring is original (the T connector with purple and black wire) and whenever I put my probe on it there is 12 Volts on purple and zero resistance between black and body.
Can I run a plus directly from the fusebox and a ground directly to body or will our beloved watchdog BeCM raise objections?
Tony.
Aha that clears it all, thanks Rayodunne
Forgive me my ignorance but what is the difference between a black textballoon and a white textballoon in the left pane of the topiclist?
As for the inbox, I've had 2 PM's and now I have read them the blue box is zero while I still can find them in my inbox so that's OK.
Tony.
And? How about the O2 sensors, no CEL? What's the sound now?
You know when you have put too much force on it when you break it.
Heating the nut will partially work because the aluminium thread inside will expand more so what you can do is loosen the pipes on the other end, hold them up and fill the cooler with water and then heat the nut with a torch so the aluminium inside stays relatively cool.
Just a try.
I'm a nitwit when it comes to selling stuff so here is my question:
Isn't it better to let people pay with creditcard? If I buy I prefer cc because it is insured against theft, loss or incomplete delivery.
Now these days most people have a cc and they pay via their own bank (at least that is what they believe) so it's trusted.
But I don't know how that works out for you, costwise I mean.
Tony.
Sneaking in from across the road? From across the ocean!
In my pub it it good use for new members to give a round...
Welcome!
On here I wanted to choose for 'Kermit' or so but on the other hand I have developed something against frogs.