You also could switch ignition key in pos II when both batt. terminals are connected to discharge airbag systems.
Just do not weld with terminals connected.
What else can you do?
Tony.
I've never blown up anything when there had to be done some welding after I took the following measurements:
Take off both batt. terminals, switch lights on (when HID or xenon)
connect both terminal leads to eachother for a few seconds to discharge all electrickery and disconnect
You could disconnect the connectors at the ecu on the bulkhead to be sure but that's about it I think.
Success, Tony.
When I wanted to use 'the other' fob I just had to unlock it with the blade, from then the fob was fullly functional.
Don't know if it was the way it had to be, it just worked.
I was member of the 'two working and one damaged fob' club.
Dealer told me it were keys # 1, 2 and 4 so there must be a lost # 3 somewhere...
Or don't tighten the cap too much, they don't come loose easy (plastic on plastic).
I used a leather straptool for oilfilters to undo the cap and fitted a large O ring between cap and neck.
Hi Mark, sort of self-punishment by lurking here every day but it's just the way it is. Best for more than one reason, I'll explain later.
As for the tyre, I often have tyres had re-balanced after, say 10000 kms, especially the big wheels and tyres of the RR. To avoid loads of counterweight they sometimes take is off the rim and refit in a different position. This is where damage can occur, as said stuck on the rim shoulder where some corrosion may be present.
This damage can only occur when removing a stuck tyre from the rim, not when fitting it,
So the guy who did it is a criminal by fitting it again and should be brought to... whoever can punish him.
Fiddle a bit with the tightness of the three nuts while compressor is running, turn them a quarter of a turn loose (or tight) and notice the difference in resonance.
For me it helped.
Tony.
Time to chime in.
This was the reason why I bought a P38 anyway, by that time I had this Cherokee when we thought we needed a boat too.
Weighing a total of nearly 4 tonnes with no brakes (didn't know that beforehand) behind a Jeep with already saggy rear leafs (see Gilbertd's braking instructions).
It's just that the lot was balanced pretty well so I picked it up for the 150 kms trip home.
BTW, it is the manufacturer who guarantees how much to may tow with a vehicle (at least in Holland).
German carmakers were never that difficult, I remember the Opel Rekord of nearly 1200 kgs was allowed to pull a 1800 kg caravan.
On the contrary, back in the 80's I had this Chevy Blazer weighing 2200 kgs, my limit was a trailer of 1600 kgs. They just did not guarantee more weight.
And yes, this is my lovely wife Jo.
I have an old one laying around, this is what I measured:
inside 8 mm (is fuelpipe)
outside over the olive 10,3 mm
length 6,5 mm.
Is this worth reading Mark? (looking at the specs of them)
https://www.delphi.com/manufacturers/auto/sensors/engine-and-transmission/gasoline/mini-switching-oxygen
For your peace of mind, as the adagium at Landrovers is for years: if it's not leaking it's empty.
As for the rear end, if this is the result after a longer period of time and you did not clean it yesterday I'd leave it as it is. As Gilbert says, if it's red it is the front box seal (torque converter), is it black it's the engine's rear mainseal. For both it is a engine forward/box rearward job, if you are not planning an engine-out job in the near future I should just check fluids regulary and leave it. (I've heard it is possible to fit a dipstick to the ZF4HP24)
As for the front it looks like a timingcover seal, not difficult to renew.
Hardest part is the crankbolt that holds the pulley, you need a socket 24 and a scaffoldpole to undo it, specs are 200 Nm. and lowering the oilpan.
For more room I should take out the radiator.
I'm very much convinced that Marty's knowledge 'over there' is just as valid over here...
Just be nice to him and he will come up with some solutions
Aren't you present when the car is in for a test? Over here we make an appointment, bring the car in and having a chat with the tester while he does his job.
45 minutes later you are out again.
It once saved me a failure on a leaky rockercover gasket when I could show him a new one already in the boot.
In my last years of service we were invited (being a semi-governmental company) to test EV's as company cars. We got hold of a Mitsubishi I-MIEV and a VW UP.
The first one claimed to have a range of 125 kms, in practice after 40 kms the socket sign already lit on the dash and was a disaster at speeds over 70 km/hr.
Far to high gravity point, the car felt like being made of underwear elastic. It had a selector to choose the charging mode when releasing the throttle, A and B.
The firmest was B, when leaving a motorway at the exit it really braked and probably charged the batteries, until I saw a car coming up in the mirror making an emergency brake avoiding hitting me, no brake lights!
The VW UP felt like a kit car, pleasure to drive and had effectively a range of 130 kms.
We used them in the city centre of Amsterdam where we had to reach metrostations, sometimes in pedestrians area's. Highly dangerous, even at speeds up to 5 km/hr. Keep your foot above the brake because people don't hear you coming.
BrianH wrote:
What do you think the whole smart meter program is actually about - Its how to enable them to charge more for electric at peak demand.
That's the follow-up of what's happening over here these days.
The government wants us to install solarpanels on every roof, the powercompany pays you some pennies for the returned power to the net.
Therefore you need a new smart meter.
So that is the futere then, charges go up at peak demand and in winter, refunds go down when the sun shines.
There is just one way to benefit from solar panels, store the power in a form of hot water for bathing or floorheating, just keep it inside the house.
no10chris wrote:
I mentioned blocks on the other site,, guess who cut me down,, lmao
Saw his reply, made me laugh.
I may be wrong but the official dealer calibration tool is a box with metal pieces of different length to be placed upon bumpstops...
Lazy blendmotor. If I recall correctly what Gilbertd once told me, when a blendmotor responds too slowly at the desired temperature (or in this case the different coolant temperatures to adjust the flap accordingly) the HEVAC gets a time out and flags the book.
I had the plastic ones from Bearmach, I don't know if original is plastic or metal. As long as you don't drop them they stay in one piece.
As for refitting the pump see to it that mating surfaces are clean and smooth, stick to torque specs and order. Threads are easily damaged.
Mark you are cheaper than the GLASS organisation (Green Laning ASSociation) they charge £32.
I found some general info here:
http://www.outdoorswest.org.uk/Home/activities-and-info/guide-to-public-rights-of-way
On the other hand, I heard that Marty's workshop is already pretty remote...