That is an option (probably quicker to carry out) but I can't stand something being rotten tight...

I need to take out the headlampunits. The two outer bolts come loose but not the two inner nuts mounted to the grille/bodypart. They are rusted and the boltpart going into the lampassembly turns too, I think they are slotted in some plasticpart inside the housing.
Can I simply grind off the nuts and replace the bolts not doing something stupid irreverseble? Why do I want the units out? The adjustment mechanism is corroded and won't adjust, I want to set them a bit lower.

Thanks man, that's the info I need. I already have the 19-15 reducer pipes, bought them for 'you never know to become handy' and change the lot.
This time of the year I cannot judge the heating capabilities.

Cheers Tony.

Well Richard you covinced me about rerouting the waterhoses, one concern is still the smaller in- and outlet of the reducer which are 14mm OD, the heaterhoses are 19mm ID.
I don't know if it gives a restriction in flow.
Now I'm fabricating the bigger strips for the tank, when I return to the tester I'll buy their cable for the (free downloadable) software, it is read only though, you can't store changes to the ecu. Maybe a bottle of brandy does wonders to the mechanic ha ha.

Thank you for yor kind words guys.
Richard that was what I thought too, I had two cons to consider. One, the hose from the pump became a bit long or I had to bend the steelpipe directed to the vapouriser. Same for the hose that goes to the heatermatrix, I have tried different lay outs but was not happy with it. Now I have two relatively short hoses in parallel and have to wait and see what it's like in winter. The screen at the mechanic showed 92º C as coolanttemperature, the vaporiser acts as a heater and I am worrying about the temperature of the fusebox next to it...
If there is no heat in the cabin, I'll plumb them in series. As for the O2 sensors, they are both connected. Is it beter to keep them connected or can I disconnect them (therefore the cheapy connectors)?

In the piccy as it is now, I have still some work to make a nice harness out of the bungying wires.

Thank you all, Tony.

Update.

Did the soldering which was a great challenge for me since I can't hold my hands still anymore (when needed) from a burnout a few years ago. Showing this pic because these two spots (injectorplugs 7 and 8) I used tape instead of shrinktube. These plugs have a 3rd wire to add, I did not want to cut it to join.

Resulting in two looms going to the LPG ecu, bank 1 and bank 2

Did the rest of the plumbing, T pieces in heaterhoses, found the rev wire and O2 sensor wires in the ECM and placed the LPG injectors.

Connected the LPG injectorplugs

Initial start up was ok but after 10 seconds returned to petrol, never mind, had to go to Vogels anyway.
Did that today and they placed the missing coolingtemp sensor, connected the screen and PRESTO running on LPG!

They adjusted and tested the lot and she runs sweet. There was a testofficer around, he had 3 comments that I have to improve, the strips that hold the tank in the sparewheelbin must be 40mm wide and 4mm thick, mine are 25mm x 4mm plus I must secure the gasfeed to front on two more places. Next week my following appointment to show results and get the G3 install on the car's documents.

Thanks for all your input that helped me finish this first time job!

Tony.

Haven't used them either but IMHO a torqueing sequence has nothing to do with the type of bolts you use, your engine isn't aware of that. The purpose is to spread the force evenly from centre to outside.
As for the force I understand the topthread of ARP's is fine course compared to the stretchbolts that use the cylinderthread, I've read on 'the other' forum that 65 to 70 (ft lb I presume) will do, 100 should be killing for the blockthreads. The toad might be right in this.

In fact we all need a farmhouse with lots of parkingspace around it, and a decent shed, and a firm 4 post ramp... Then again it will be filled up in no time as you said Martin, since I also have this other hobby, boats!

Oh well, I'll stick to my 7 meter driveway and 2,5x6 meter garage ment to shelter a mini but now packed with all kind of stuff.

I wonder if the result of torqueing a head also depends on the quality of the gasket. I've had a few Classics and now this 4.6 and always limit the last stage to 45º, in fear of snapping them.
I do want good composite gaskets though and never had any problems.

Mine needed a new condenser, it was not on my priority list since 10 months of ownership until 2 months ago so I don't have any reference (with RR that is).

I had drained and replaced the oil of the compressor aswell just to be sure there is any, since two months I have AC! Not freezing cold but if I set the buttons on 20º Auto and enter the inside on a hot day it takes some 7-10 minutes before the blowers go down to slower speed so the temp is reached. Not that the blowers have much effect, for sure there are leaks in the ductrouting, dried out foam and one repaired with tape. What's that called again? Aha, ducttape! I'm satisfied the way it works now, we don't have that many hot days. More important is it keeps the windows clear of damp when raining or in winter with snow (which we don't get anymore).

How true Morat, I will order for the bearing...

The hoses are a bit thick indeed but very flexible. Inside is 6mm (obvious) and outside dia is 12,5mm. The hoses must be certified and consist of two walls with a woven layer in between, that is why they don't stretch, 6mm is 6mm. On first install they may not be older than 2 years. It's all there is on the market and have to deal with it.

Update.

Richard I'm going the route you suggested (Morat may have the copyrights) by drilling holes between the banana's.

Four holes, each hole can pass two tubes for the 6mm nozzles, leave the injectorrails on top to keep access when testing/tuning.

The least space is between the inlet 4 and 6 banana's, was a bit tricky when drilling. Now the tubes become 24 cm max, later I always can experiment placing them under the plenum.

I had to wait for the new gaskets and seals to deliver, meanwhile I have traced, tested, labeled and soldered the wires of the 50 pin multiplug, tomorrow (when no rain) I will solder the wires to the petrol injectorplugs. At Vogels they don't answer the phone (tried twice) to order the coolant tempsensor, it is holidaytime over there so they may be closed.
I will install everything without it, at least I have the rev wire found and connected.

As I said earlier I'm doing it step by step in my (retired) tempo.

Tony.

I don't recall the capability of his press, it is a huge stand, the pump has two levers, one for low pressure-quick movement and one for high pressure-slow movement.
He has a blowtorch as well, let's see how far I can get.
On install I can use the fridge for the bearing and the oven for the hub (when the missus is out).

I've got a rumble from underneath, first I thought it could be U joints (cheapest cause) but after removal of the front propshaft the mechanic/owner of the garage who gives me shelter now and then told me there was nothing wrong with them, not a single bit of play.

Our son (a happy wrencher too) is very determent in a worn right front bearing, indeed the rumble frequency could very well be the revs of the wheel at respective speeds.

Lifted it off the floor but I cannot feel any play at all, not radial, not axial. Rotating the wheel is a bit difficult being a 4x4.

If I need a new bearing there is the hub assembly for £175 (Allmakes OEM) or the Timken bearing kit (bearing, circlip, seal and nut) for £77.

Island 4x4 states this is a non DIY job but I have access to a hydraulic press (the shelter guy) and was wondering if I could do it myself, £100 difference is worth thinking it over.

What do you think?

Tony.

Thanks Marty, you're a gentleman.

Correct but the passengerside is just as old, plus it does the grounding for the tailgatedoors so will need new switches too.
Let me know when the driversdoor is ready.

Cheers, Tony.

Marty your post crossed mine. Thanks for the info, I will connect everything by the manual, maybe the parameter from revs is enough to prevent the gasvalves from opening unintended.

The manual says that when it switches from petrol to gas it uses 4 seconds between opening gasvalves one by one (tank and vaporiser) and shutting off petrolinjectors.

Good to hear about the latches, can't wait to install them!

Regards, Tony.

Cyl. 5 and 8 in a Thor ignition is in plug C0638 the red wire in position 8.

Presto! Learning every day (mainly how to read the manual).

BTW, the manual says 'connect x wire to battery +', doesn't this have to be a 'contact' terminal (key pos. 2)?