Of all the shitty luck.

I'm raising a glass to him as soon as i hit 'Reply" on this.

RIP OB.

Bull bar and light guards? Not for me and I'll just settle for a normal crackless interior for now. I reckon colour coding on darker ones might be okay.

As to sidesteps, they'd go as well, due to me and the dogs not using them, but as my family are all tiny Filipinas, that could cause an outcry. Although the upside would be peace, perfect peace!

It's pretty much all been said, so I'll just agree :-)

Welcome to the wonderful world of P38s!

+1 on the cooling system. I replaced the lot and she'll now sit quite happily(?) in a Manila traffic jam for hours at 35 degrees without any issues or water loss.

+1 on the Nanocom as well, it's a great investment. The only guy that I trust here with the Testbook is bloody miles away, but with the Nanocom, I can do it in my garage!

My oil gets changed around every 1,000km. A bit excessive you think? Given how many hours the engine has to run at an average of 8kph to achieve that, no I don't think so!

As Gilbert says, look after it and it'll look after you. Mine gets a bit molly coddled, but then she's more of a toy than a serious daily.

You'll get plenty of good advice here - as you've already seen.

Morat wrote:

Are any of them armoured? :)

When I was looking through car ads here, I noticed several mentioning that the vehicle in question was, "Bulletproof" but I associated it with our meaning, i.e. reliable, etc., then the penny dropped!

I was surprised when my lad was living in Phnom Penh and he told me that 322's were considered "common"

When I swapped back to air, I needed new sensors.

All fitted up and the guy couldn't get anything to calibrate. Turned out I'd been sent post '97, rather than the '95-7 ones, although the physical fit was okay.

So I'm guessing they're not interchangeable.

Happened to me on my UK one. Rolling the spare at it repeatedly eventually did the trick.

By heck, we get around, don't we?

Is there a correlation between P38 ownership and wanderlust?

Mine was 0.12% when I got it tested last week and that's with the two year old sport cats.

Ah yes, I remember it well. It took me a good few heat/cool cycles before it let go.

A combination of threadlock and damp had conspired. I found that a plug off the end of my new brake hoses fitted into the hole on the plug a treat, so it's got that in now (with tiny breather hole - because you just never know) to keep the worst grot out.

Personally, now you've got the mod out, I'd just replace everything. Saves going back in there again!

The only, knowingly, Britpart I have on mine is the PCRV, as they are the only suppliers it seems. I checked it after collection (yes, Britpart now have a branch here - guess they hope their reputation hasn't travelled 7,000 miles yet) only to find that one of the machine screws holding the two halves together was loose. Backed them both off, used threadlock on them and then fitted. Been on 7 months now and still not leaked. Is this a record?

Had I fitted it without checking, it would have blown the sealing ring out immediately, something that took 21 years to happen on the old one.

After years of LR ownership, if I can avoid them, I do.

Oh my Lourde, the easiest way is to order the unsurpassed Rover Raiser kit from the good Doctor Scotty over on that lovely RR.net, allow him to remove the dosh from your credit card and then...oh, hang on. :-)

Looks are indeed an individual thing (thank God), as is the use to which said wheels/tyres will mainly be put. 150 miles on highway in the UK/US is completely different to most 150 mile trips here, in terms of different types of road. As there's only two "highways" on the island it can be a real adventure if your not going where they do!

Given the state of the paved and unpaved roads, coupled with the amount of mudslides and flooding we get in rainy season, closing roads to 4x4 only, then larger wheels and road tyres just don't cut it.

Lucky I like the 16s - and always wanted an excuse to buy the ZU rims anyway - as it was easiest to find suitable A/T tyres here, although I may have had a different attitude had I done the EAS restoration first and maybe gone for 18s. We'll never know!

Funny that just after I went to 16", Madam then changed those on her shitty Fortuner from 18" (I think) to 20", along with low profile tyres and then proceeded to make exactly the same complaints that caused me to change mine in the first place!

No, she doesn't listen. :-)

Depends on your roads I guess. Here, they are a mess, everywhere, with odd camber changes, HGV ruts, potholes that can swallow a small Toyota (I do not say this as a bad thing!) the lot. Out of the city, they're even worse or completely unmade My 20s just dragged the car all over the show whilst it crashed and banged over every bump and hole. It was just not an enjoyable experience, to the extent I thought I'd made a big mistake buying the damn thing.

I fell back in love the second I had the 16s fitted and, as I say, going back to EAS just finished it off.

Of course, I agree with Gordon as well...

Mukiwa wrote:

I suspected it might be that. My drive's on about a 15 degree up slope so I thought that may have something to do with it.
I read on the Stockholm views P38 article that he wired up his delay timer so it only operated whilst the car was actually running. I'll leak test on my return, but my ocd with niggles will mean I will have to leak test the whole system.

I did this as well, just for giggles, but it seemed to cause all sorts of other issues, like going to high or access for no reason, which all went away when the bridge was removed. Talked to a guy here who tried it as well, same strange results.

Where I live is a fairly narrow lane with houses on each side. Due to flooding issues, most have very steep approaches to garage doors, so as I swing over to line up for reversing in, the front goes through some fairly acute articulation, followed by the rear as I swing back into mine. Almost inevitably, the next morning will see it dropped, presumably due to earlier confusion but then switched off before it can sort its life out. However, it raises immediately the vehicle is started.

To be honest, I found swapping 20" tyres and wheels to 16" was the biggest game changer in terms of handling and comfort. Returning to EAS was just the icing on the cake. I kept the same Bilsteins that were previously with the coils and they've been fine.

That's what I hoped my memory was telling me!

Well, given that this won't polish out...

And the back's been hit three times by sidecars, plus it's US$1,300 the pair for new, before shipping and duty, there's only one option. Make yer own!

Don't do fibreglass, so the plan is simple and can be read here...

http://forum.retro-rides.org/thread/157765/range-rover-bumpers-steel-question

Although I'll warn you there are 60-odd pages to plough, through and I can't really recommend it!

Edited version is buy some 2mm sheet steel, a welder, a grinder and get stuck in.

I want the result to look as close to existing (without the holes!) as possible, including using the spoiler and spots, and rear wing finishers.

Buying welder this week

Watch this space!

Yup, tan. The side pieces have faded, hence the strange colour.

I'm hoping the instrument binnacles are same for L/H and R/H drive.

I'd love to ship an entire interior over, but I have a feeling that both the courier and customs would be the main beneficiaries!