Minimum Intervention Cure
Remove battery earth. Leave for a period (two days in this case!).
Replace battery earth.
Problem gone! :-)
So I did. And lo, it remained the same. Interestingly, it was reading 1000 when I came to it this morning. Dropped to zero when unplugged then back to usual when plugged back in.
Tried the BECM end of things, plug 16, if I recall. No change.
Took column shroud off and had a peer at ignition wiring. It all looks remarkably unmolested.
Buttoned it all back up as I had to be rolling by 11, so none the wiser.
The thing is getting a feed from somewhere, even when the key is in my pocket. Mystery.
Two other things came out of today; one, it spelt the final death of the binnacle surround and two, I've lost a really annoying rattle.
You win some, you lose some!
Thanks, Richard.
I'll be giving that a go in the morning.
So Mr. Dyson sees a huge market in the far east? Of the three countries I have the most experience of, not one of them has a reliable power source, with failures and blackouts bring regular occurrences.
Although could a half charged Dyson backfeed into the house? Then it may be of some use!
Up until yesterday, all was well in Range Rover land. Then the rev counter decided it was hooked up to a screaming multi - cylinder Japanese two stroke.
Not quite, but it overreads by almost 1000rpm. So on tickover it sits at 1750-1800. When driving, it pops up and down with the gearchanges but always +1000.
When I switch off, it drops to 1000, sits twitching for a few minutes, then drops to zero.
Left it overnight to see if it would just disappear, like you do, but no, same this morning.
Before I go wailing into things, any bright ideas, guys?
BrianH wrote:
My mate's boss doesn't believe in changing oil in vehicles. So far over the last few years he has killed at least 5 vans I know of due to the oil having the consistency of tar when its cold, another one died when the timing chain finally snapped after he was told for nearly 6 months it needed attention as it sounded like a bag of spanners in a cement mixer when running, and hes on the way to finishing off another 2 at the minute.
Hes also got a p38 that is now off the road as he kept driving it when it was overheating.
He's not Asian is he? That sounds just like a Philippine maintenance programme!
Goodridge do both early and late hoses, although they don't see to know it, so make sure you get the correct set.
I was pointed towards bushes on another site. Could have a point, they're likely to be 23 years old!
When I had the gearbox cross member off, I never thought to look, but I was too busy fitting up my new shiny stainless front pipes, and, of course, didn't have the vibration then!
So it'll be back under this weekend for a look-see.
Thanks.
Okay, so way back when, I decided to replace the prop UJs as I was getting a bit of vibration on acceleration.
For some reason that escapes me now, I did 3 of the 4 before having to refit the shafts and use the vehicle. So the vibration, whilst better, was still there. This weekend, I dived underneath again to replace the last one, the back one on the rear prop.
It was pretty goosed, with plenty of slop, so in went the new one. Greased all the others and the prop slides whilst I was there. Job done.
Vibration still there. Damn!
It only happens under two circumstances, hard acceleration and on the overrun at anything above 80kph. It’ll run up steadily to speed without a murmur, it’s only when you boot it. The rest of the time, it’s a smooth as silk.
Any bright ideas?
The three UJs I replaced earlier will only have done a couple of thousand kms, if that and no, they aren’t Britpart!
Final update - hopefully...
Plugged it into the '38 this morning and have full functionality. Happy with that.
Given my Customs sage over replacement brake hoses, I wasn't looking forward to returning it for repair!
I'm safe...
"The seller may not post to the Philippines" :-)
To bring this up to date...
I downloaded yet another update, having deleted the earlier ones from the laptop. I must have then run the update seven or eight times. Each time, I got a little more screen functionality.
Eventually I got to the page to input the unlock codes but...Every time I went to cancel the "?" and input the code, the CANC button would delete one then remain highlighted so I couldn't delete any more.
I slung it in the corner in disgust until this morning, when I brought it to the office to have another bash.
Plugged it in and all works perfectly, codes accepted without issue. I'll plug it into the vehicle when I get home and hopefully clear that alarm fault, but looking good so far.
If you have similar issues with v1.34, then persistence is the key to success!
Before you all rush out and update to the latest release, hang fire a moment.
I seem to remember writing on here that I'd found the touchscreen much more responsive after an earlier update, now I have the opposite problem.
Upgraded to release 1.34 (corrected from 1.35 - that's in the future!) and the bottom half of the screen was a pig to use, but the top was fine. The new update gives you the opportunity to rotate the screen 180 degrees, so the cables on the right side for LHD vehicles, I forgot to click this option initially.
Writing on the BB forum, I was advised to reload again, also clicking the kernal overwrite option, so I did that and the 180. I was also told that I'd need to input my activation codes again. It never asked for those afterwards.
Now only the bottom left of the screen accepts any inputs, which ain't a lot of use.
I'm guessing I'll be told it's a hardware fault, but it does seem coincidental...
But I'll wait for a response from BB and take it from there.
Hold off the upgrade until I get to the bottom of this.
Of course, the '38 has thrown an alarm fault that I now cannot clear!
Like that.
Really must do something about the non-existent ICE in mine one day.
I'd forgotten that he blamed me in the first post!
Where's the fuckin' "like" button.
Yeah, beer, red wine and brandy make typing diccifult.
Morat wrote:
You'll be thankful you bought it. Maybe not today, maybe not tomorrow - but soon ;)
He speaks the truth!
By the way, there's an update available. not sure of v number. but if you find that the kernel button doesn't work, like mine didn't when hooked to the laptop, then follow the instructions to remove one of the end plates and pull out the jumper. The update is then done, and you stick the jumper back in.
They obviously realised there's an issue, hence the instructions. No.8 torx and small needle nose pliers are all you need.
Oh, and it gives the option of 180 degrees screen rotation as well.
My old one in a quarry somewhere in South Wales. Like Gilbert's, an ex-GMP 4.0L
Current one. 1996 4.6.
There's about 7,000 miles and 30 degrees C between those two pictures above!
And in its favourite habitat. Outside a bar.
Just use degreaser/detergent, depending on crap and wash off. Never bagged or covered anything.
Only ever had one tiny issue. Alternator said no for around two minutes.
super4 wrote:
Not stealing - right on the ball - some of my friendly dealers do not have a good word to say for my beloved P38 - until now the fairly minor problems have been mostly fixed by me but I am a bit stuck so if you can look at my bit on LPG forum any hints would be much appreciated.....chris
RutlandRover wrote:
I try to buy what I can from the main dealer. I figure that the parts they fitted 17 years ago have lasted 17 years so they just be pretty good.
The biggest issues I run into are lack of availability, monstrous pricing and a lack of knowledge from the parts guys - the car is just too old for them to know anything about.
I tried once.
Went to Land Rover Manila asking for a set of plug leads.
They denied that the P38 ever existed, despite being parked right outside the parts department's window.
"We can do special deal on Evoque, Sir."
Strange, they went bankrupt. Not tried their replacement yet, and probably won't.