Don't totally discount the AA though. I've got full AA cover as an included benefit on my Lloyds bank account which covers me irrespective of the vehicle or even if I am only a passenger. I've used it three times. First was on the Classic LSE with a loaded car transporter on the back and the serpentine belt tensioner bearing gave way. They came out with a recovery truck, put the car on that, hitched the trailer up to the back and took car, trailer and me home. Second time was on the P38 when the water pump bearing exploded but we weren't going directly home. They arranged a hire car for us to continue our journey (and were very apologetic that they couldn't give us a Range Rover and the best they could offer was a Zafira) and recovery to home for the car. We got home in the hire car about 9pm that night and the car arrived at 11pm. Third time was while the P38 was being resprayed and I was using the Maserati. Parked it for about 6 hours only to find the battery had gone flat, got a jump start and it appeared to be charging (interior light got brighter when I revved it anyway) so set off for home. First roundabout I came to and had to stop, being an auto, I couldn't keep the revs up and it died on me. AA man came out, confirmed what I thought (short circuit rectifier in the alternator), disconnected the alternator, put a fully charged battery on it then followed me home in case it died again. I couldn't fault the service at all on any occasion.
Continental cover is a different story. None of the usual specialists will cover anything over 16 years old and don't do personal cover. Up until 2000, for 84 Euros a year, ADAC, the German equivalent to the AA would give a similar level of personal cover for anywhere in Europe but they stopped doing that unless you have a German address. I didn't realise until earlier this year when I realised I hadn't renewed it for this year. Considering I must have done at least 15,000 miles on the other side of the Channel thinking I was covered when I wasn't. Good job I didn't need them.... I haven't spoken to the AA to see how many arms and legs they want to extend the cover I already have to cover all of Europe, but the RAC will do personal European cover for around £350 a year which seems about the only option these days.
Try charging it and see what it drops to when cranking then, it shouldn't go below 11.5V. If it does, it's faulty so time for a warranty claim.
@Harv, your car is a GEMS so has the main power cables going from the battery to starter and starter to alternator. A poor contact at the starter causes the voltage drop and there was a TSB that recommended exactly what you have done, an additional cable from the alternator to the battery. However, this won't be StrangeRover's problem as his car is a Thor which has a cable directly from the alternator to the battery as standard.
Sounds more like a starter problem that a battery problem. What does it drop down to when cranking?
What are you doing to kill the Hankook's? I've got one in each P38, have supplied 3 more for other owners and one in a boat with a 4.3 litre V6 and not had a problem with any of them.
I've only ever seen a couple that have been badly rusted (donmacn's being one of them) but I can't see how it would be an MoT fail unless it is actually leaking.
Defect Category
(a) A gas, air or fluid suspension system inoperative Dangerous
(b) A gas, air or fluid suspension system component damaged, modified or deteriorated in a way that:
(i) it would adversely affect the functioning of the system Major
(ii) its function is seriously affected Dangerous
(c) An obvious leak from any part of the system Major
577 is a thread sealant (https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/jp/en/product/thread-sealants/loctite_577.html) so not sure why they recommend that. For metal to metal faces I've always used Hylomar Blue.
No, that's a RH door latch and isn't the same, the MG only has one microswitch in it (door ajar), it doesn't have a CDL switch so won't work in the passenger door on a P38. The LHD, LH latch https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-FQJ102292PMA is a direct replacement for the drivers door latch on a pre-99 LHD car and can be used on a later one if you chop the plug off and solder your original 8 way plug onto it.
If you got it from battery megastore, it's got a 4 year warranty (see para 17 here https://www.batterymegastore.co.uk/terms-and-conditions/). Charge it fully and see what it drops to after it has been left but if it drops below 10.6V it is fubar.
In theory you just replace the sensor on the board but, as you say, the brushes spring out and are a real pain to get back in. I suspect that is why the one I saw had a replacement sensor mounted using one of the screws on the outside. I've only tried to take one compressor motor apart to replace a bearing and gave up on it.
The Viair is only slightly bigger than the original (which was a Thomas pump and not Dunlop as some seem to think) so could probably be fitted if the box was slightly modified but Marty has used the vacant space next to the box. Wouldn't be an option on a LHD car but plenty of space on ours.
Have you fitted one before? Getting the motor apart can be a real pita. I've seen one, on a Classic, where the sensor was attached to the outside of the back plate of the motor and connected to the Orange and Black wires externally. It was done very neatly and almost looked like it should have been there.
This one I suspect https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/thermostatic-switches/2532773/?sra=pmpn, or you could go for this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264871750482 which claims to be the correct one.
Cold pump with thermal sensor showing Hot says the sensor is fubar. I'd be inclined to short the Orange and Black and run it a bit longer (while keeping a hand on it to prove it isn't getting too hot).
I've seen mention of a car that didn't want to play while sitting on the bumpstops, but once it was jacked slightly so the height sensors saw movement, it all burst into life. Jumping the relay, or turning the compressor on with the Nano, should build pressure. If you monitor the pressure switch while it is running, you'll see when it is filled (although you'll probably hear the pump starting to struggle anyway).
Raise switch and lower switch refer to the rocker switch. Nanocom takes a second or so to show a change of state so if you press Up or Down and hold it, you should see the display change from Open to Closed while you are pressing the rocker. Doesn't explain why the pump isn't running though.
No ABS modulator, just a conventional master cylinder and servo.
It isn't a percentage, it's the number of steps (although the Nano may show it as a percentage) and it has probably reached the limit at idle. You shouldn't need to adjust the cables, they should have a small amount of slack on them when the throttle is closed. Cleaning the butterfly won't do any harm. The throttle will close off almost fully and the IACV allows air to bypass the butterfly to maintain idle. When you open the throttle very slightly, the IACV opens to raise the revs slightly at very small throttle openings. If it's never been adjusted, it will almost certainly need adjustment. It's either a small Torx or Allen key you need to adjust it.
I've spent another half day on this weird EAS behaviour on Nigellbb's car. Although the Nanocom shows all of the valves to be closed, listening to them shows that they are opening but probably not for long enough for the Nano to register the change of state. Took it out with the Nano connected and while driving it remains at the height it should be, it's only when stationary it doesn't. While sitting there with the engine running, the pump cuts in and the car rises, it overshoots the set heights, the pump switches off and it drops but overshoots again and drops lower than it should. Re-checked the calibration with my blocks and the difference side to side is 8 bits maximum so that shouldn't cause a problem (I don't think). I'm beginning to suspect the ECU as it permanently shows the doors to be closed even if they aren't (so still moves with a door, any door, open), the Nano shows the pump to be On all the time, even when it isn't, and the pressure switch is shown as open even when the pump shuts off (realised later that I hadn't checked the status of the thermal switch though). I considered swapping the ECU with mine until I realised that would involve taking the passenger seat out of both cars. It's working as it should when being driven so I've given up on that. Unless someone has any other ideas......
Nigel had mentioned that it seemed to take longer to rise up when it had been left for a long time so had dropped and the pump didn't sound right either. It's a Dunlop branded one dated 2019 so hasn't been on that long, but didn't seem to be producing much pressure, not as much as I would expect. Fortunately I'd got a spare, brand new and unused sleeve and a piston with a decent seal on it (from a pump that had burnt out it's motor). Took the top off the pump and found a lot of wear in the seal, so rebuilt it using the spare piston, brand new sleeve and a new O ring (from my box of assorted EAS bits) under the flap valve. I also found the screws holding the motor to the pump were loose too. Fitted that and while it didn't stop it rising and falling, it refilled the system much quicker and is a lot quieter too.
GEMS - Inputs - Air and Idle - Idle air control valve, this will show the number of steps open the IACV is The number when idling with a warm engine should be between 15 and 30 (closer to 30 is better). If outside of that you adjust the idle bypass screw, the one on the top of the throttle body that once had an anti-tamper cap on it.