+1 on Elring gaskets and ARP studs. Make the job so much easier and you know the heads are torqued down properly, 35 - 50 - 65 ft/lbs.

On GEMS, it comes under Inputs, there's 3 options, fuelling air and others, I think it's under others but you should be able to find it. I'd check mine but a) it's a 4.0 litre and b) it's parked outside a hotel in the main square in a village in rural France so revving the goolies off it might not be appreciated by the locals (mate's son gets married this afternoon so we will be contributing to Boris's Covid test profits sometime on Monday).

Engine fully warm, in neutral, all loads off:
@idle - 20 kg/hr +- 3 kg/hr
@2,500 rpm - 61 kg/hr +- 3 kg/hr

So if you assume it is going to be linear, you should be able to work it out. Or if it isn't going to be linear you should be able to work out the curve from a Bosch one. This does assume you have one that is working so you can read the airflow and measure the voltage.

So is his if you look at his sig.

I've also found this http://www.mez.co.uk/p38-heater-orings-1.html so with a combination of the various guides, it should be fairly easy (he says but at least I won't be doing it until early September and will have the car for 3 days).

It won't strain the height sensors as the shocks will limit how much the suspension can extend. Most car transporter trailers have legs at the rear so the back doesn't drop right down. I use the extension on the suspension as a guide when loading a car. Watch how high the back of the car is then drive onto the trailer and when the back of the car has dropped to just below normal height, the balance is about right.

But your car will be LHD Leo, on a RHD, the matrix comes out half way then hits the steering column. At that point I gave up and bypassed it so the owner could drive his car home......

I'm working on the principle that if I can at least get the heater box loose, I can twist it a little so the matrix will slide straight out.

This is one job I'll be doing next month. Had a car here for the last couple of days that needed a few jobs doing, one of which was heater core O rings. Now I've done these numerous times on a number of different cars and have it down to about an hour now but when I started on this one it was pretty obvious someone had been in there before me. Changed the O rings (which appeared to be generic rubber rings and were being dissolved by the coolant), fired it up and watched while a small trail of coolant came out from just behind the screw head. Seems that whoever had been in there before had done the screw up too tight and cracked the heater matrix. Shot off to Rimmers to pick up a replacement but got partway through and realised the only sensible way to change the matrix would be to pull the dashboard out and do it properly. So the heater core has been temporarily bypassed and I'll be doing a proper job on it when the car is next in this area. It'll also give me chance to seal the joints in the heater ducts while I'm in there. Any hints? RAVE says to remove the wiper motor, pollen filter housings and steering column but I've seen where others have done it without, is it really necessary? With the steering column out I'd have been able to change the heater matrix with the heater box still in place and it was only that which stopped me from going any further.

He won't. Bonnet open is triggered by a short across that connector, so open circuit means it never tells you the bonnet is open even when it is.

Mines just the same, missing the screenwash cap......

Or are you referring to the disconnected heater hoses or the lack of ABS and an old school servo and master cylinder?

It connects to the bonnet open switch, or that is the plug on the bonnet open switch on the base of the RH bonnet catch, and somewhere there is it's dangling partner.

RAVE says 78Nm for all 7/16th bolts not listed on the last page of the torque settings. So if they are 7/16th bolts, that should be correct.

There may be nothing wrong with the car or the trailer, it might be down to the council. Yesterday I towed a loaded Brian James flatbed trailer over to France. The load was more bulk than weight so probably weighed no more than 500kg. Got it to the destination where it was unloaded and I set off back. The trailer had towed perfectly on the way down and was just the same on the way back, until I got off the ferry at Dover. For the rest of the journey home, except for stretch of A14 that was only opened a year ago, the trailer was causing the car to 'jiggle' as you put it, pretty violently. Leaning forward so I was not leaning against the backrest at least meant my eyeballs weren't being shaken around to the point where I couldn't see where I was going! It's not the trailer, it's the shit quality of the roads in this country......

Just in time for the weather to turn all miserable and wet again.....

Still not a bad deal then.

Presume you told him the simple test for that is to run on petrol and see if it still pressurises?

It will. When you turn the key to Pos 1, the ignition switched circuits are powered, including the feed to the blowers. Ordinarily, the blower doesn't do anything because the HEVAC hasn't yet instructed the controller to turn on the transistors to supply power to the motor. When they fail and the transistors go short circuit, the power goes straight through them to the motor.

That's what the price list on the website says. Click the link then click on the Long Engine Comparison Chart.

No, it's the transistor. As soon as power is applied the blower runs flat out.

When Dave (DHailsworth) pressure tested his AC at the 3 bar that RAVE recommends, there were no leaks, but when he tested it at the AC training course recommended 10 bar, there was. So you may still have a leak, but with dye in you'll soon see it.

I've taken a couple of blowers apart and the commutator was burnt in places so not all poles were working. Vibrates like hell when running flat out and may also not start if it has stopped with the brushes on the dead spot.