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The bits stuck to the floor that the plugs slot into appear to be polythene or similar. They aren't rubbery but aren't rigid like ABS and have that sort of waxy appearance. Or at least the ones stuck to my floor are and I've got the OE LR rubber mats.

Not done any lost wax but have done quite a bit of fibre glass moulding. Considered making some of the disc brake covers in fibreglass as they seem to rust away quite nicely and cost stupid money to replace. Only problem is finding a decent one to take a mould from.

You could have left it and told us what you found or how you fixed it. Could have been useful for anyone that has the same problem in the future.

Maybe because they didn't have as much cable in 1996? It's the length of the lead between the fusebox and the battery that makes the difference and it was only half an inch or so shorter, just not quite long enough to reach the post.

Should have ordered as soon as it was shown as in stock. Whenever they get stock they sell out pretty quickly (probably to P38 owners...).

Is it the door latch or is it coming from the speakers? If the battery on the Ascot is flat, which used to be a regular occurrence until I treated it to a nice new Hankook MF31-1000, when I put it on the charge one of the rear door locks would constantly try to lock every second or so until the battery voltage rose to above 10 V. That sounds more like mains hum which makes me wonder if a door amp is permanently powered.

The pictures are hosted on Marty's own server and it appears to have fallen over. As he is currently on the opposite side of the world, I doubt he can kick it back into life at the moment.

Clips look to be close enough to fit, even if you have to attack then with a pair of long nose pliers to adjust them. The tape is cloth so I would think cloth insulating tape, the sort of stuff that used to be used before PVC and is still used in some circumstances would do it, see https://www.amazon.co.uk/fabric-electrical-tape/s?k=fabric+electrical+tape

I've got the mats and the bits on the floor but never seen the fasteners that go on the top. A quick Google doesn't seem to show anything similar either.

Thanks for that, just edited the FAQ on .net. We'll get them over here sooner or later......

dave3d wrote:

Anyone know what the unused plug is for at the bottom of the picture. Can't think what it could be. Maybe the alarm which I disconnected a while back?

Yes, alarm sounder.

davew wrote:

Such esoterics apart, my actual question/point above relates to why they did not seem to have the Rcvr. issue in the US. (?)

Probably because their receivers operate on 315 MHz and not in the low power devices 433 MHz band sharing the frequency with numerous other low power devices.

If it's a definite clunk when going from forward to reverse, it's likely to be backlash in a diff. If it does it when moving at low speed in a straight line, likely to be a propshaft UJ, if it does it when turning slowly, it's likely a CV joint. In RAVE it's under front suspension and referred to as driveshaft.

Drops straight in, clamps fit but on some cars the leads are a bit short as the terminals are nearer the centre of the battery. Mine was fine, a 99 DSE was fine, a 98 4.6 was fine, but on the Ascot (96 4.6) I had to run the positive cable to the fusebox over the ECU box rather than round it.

I must admit that I sometimes baulk at the thought of paying over 70ppl. I stopped at one garage that I'd used in the past and the price had been reasonable only to find it had gone up to 76.9. So I just put enough in to get me back home so I could fill up at Flogas at 58ppl. But thinking about it later, I'd saved myself a couple of quid, but it was still a lot cheaper than petrol at £1.28......

I do object to paying 1 Euro a litre in French motorway service areas though when over the border in Belgium it's under half that. In fact, in a recent discussion with my daughter we figured Belgium would be a decent place to move to. It's still in the EU, it's got cheap (and plentiful) LPG and chocolate. What is there not to like?

davew wrote:

Their Cell towers can pump out some serious Wattage so the problem should/must have been much worse there.....?

and the point of that would be? Despite what people think, a mobile phone base station actually runs fairly low power as the coverage area needs to be reciprocal, transmit to receive. So when the mobile (the phone), runs a maximum of 1 Watt and that has to be received by the base station, what would be the point in a base station that can shout further than it can hear?

Maybe they will for more modern stuff that uses Canbus I doubt anyone would make the effort to try to interface the multitudes of incompatible and non-standard protocols used in the P38 and only in the P38.

Ugh, Champions, how to make an engine misfire when there's nothing at all wrong with it..... if GEMS, NGK BPR6ES, if Thor NGK PFR6N-11.

There's probably some bonkers regulations in the US that mean diesels are classed as trucks so don't suffer the same restrictions as petrol. A bit like how a pickup was a truck so was exempt from the emissions regulations so you got pickups producing far more power than sports cars.

My mate who does mobile AC recharging enquired about the process for recharging the AC on an EV as the system not only cools and heats the car but it also cools the batteries. Seems he's got to do a 4 day training course before he's allowed to touch one. 48V at an almost unlimited amount of Amps can do you a lot of damage.....

I always get OE, https://www.lrdirect.com/LVC100260-Gasket-Rocker-Cover-New-Rr-V8/?keep_https=yes, as they seem to be more 'rubbery' and less like vinyl like the cheap ones.