Now that's interesting. Can't think of a reason why but the one in France that won't sync now has always had mine parked next to it when I've tried it. In the past when it would sync, mine was parked round the corner......

I've bought 5 over the years for mine and other people's cars and they have always turned up the next day. Can't knock them for service.

Mine is ex-GMP motorway patrol so had the full set.

I've still got an auxiliary fusebox and split charge relay under the bonnet, bolted to the NS suspension turret. The cables for the aux battery located in the RHS of the boot space are still there too although the one from the battery to the split charge relay has now been re-purposed as a direct feed from the alternator to the battery (rather than via the starter motor as is the way it is done on a GEMS). When I dropped the headlining I also found 5 spurious Panorama aerial bases that had been chopped off at roof level and miles of cabling that ran from the RH A pillar down to the RHS of the bot area. There was an additional switch and some blocking diodes connected into the tailgate release circuit. This, I assume, allowed the car to be locked with the tailgate open. The Nanocom documentation says that the police setting should only be used if wiring mods have been carried out but doesn't go into any further detail. I suspect it is so it doesn't get confused and show blown bulb warnings when lights are used in a different way to how they were originally intended.

Where the control panel was would probably depend on what force ordered/installed it. Police spec were supplied with no stereo so there was a convenient hole there and I've got a couple of holes in the dash panel between the centre vents and instrument panel (above the headlight switch). There's a pushbutton fitted into the blank where the sunroof switch would be if it had a sunroof and signs that something has been glued to the interior light panel too. External shots are the only pictures I have of it in it's original guise, no interior shots unfortunately.

and they can just suddenly stop with no warning. One reason I carry a spare when I set off on one of my cross-Europe trips. Everything can be perfect but as you can't push or tow start an auto, with a dead starter you aren't going anywhere.

Was it worse when pulling and virtually disappeared when on the over run? That's usually a leaking head to manifold gasket and it will also change with temperature (might only be there when cold or might only be there when hot). Sounds just like a tappet though.

That sounds about right for an engine that hasn't had a blown gasket. My heads have been skimmed three times that I know of and the last time they took off 8 thou. When I checked the preload on mine I had to put the shims in but with only 3 thou off them you shouldn't need to. I had to buy a set that came with three different thicknesses and I found the thinnest ones put it just inside the range while the middle ones put it nicely where it needed to be. So if you do need to shim, which sounds pretty unlikely, I've got a set of shims that should do the job nicely you're welcome to if you need them.

Yes, you will need to remove the rocker shafts to refit the heads. It will also give you the opportunity to check the pre-load. Unless they have skimmed a lot of metal off the heads, it's likely they will still be in spec so the hydraulics will self adjust. If the heads have been skimmed, then you may need to adjust the clearances but that is done by putting shims under the rocker pedestals. How to check is here http://www.v8developments.co.uk/technical/valve_train/index.shtml

Yeah, I started at the top and worked my way down so saw that after I'd replied to this.

Just to be sure, pull a spark plug and check for a spark (with ignition in pos 2 and jumpering the starter relay).

Immobilised? Or just won't start?

Edited it so your pictures show. Those colours appear to be on the actual mirror itself and not the wiring that goes to it. Although it does appear to have too many wires. The ETM shows 5 wires in a black connector that plugs into the top of the mirror base where it is fixed to the windscreen.

Both part numbers seem to be a blank key and at around £14, seem expensive. I took my key into my local Timsons who identified the blank as a BMW key which they didn't keep in stock but ordered a couple and cut me a key from mine for a tenner.

But the question is, have you found the OBD socket yet?

Workshop manual, overhaul manual and electrical manual are 3 separate volumes if you buy the paper versions but all are included in RAVE. I find it far easier to navigate than a 500 odd page book too.

White/Pink has ignition switched power while Black is ground. Power comes from F6 which is fused at 10A. I've run power for a dashcam from the back of the fag lighter socket, it goes across under the steering column, up the A pillar between the plastic trim and door rubber and can then be tucked up behind the headlining without having to remove anything other than the knee panel.

That's the GEMS version, both his cars are Thor and the wiring looms (and most of the wiring) are completely different. I've got the full UK CD of RAVE saved as an iso image file on my Google Drive. That is an electronic version of the workshop manual, overhaul manuals, electrical troubleshooting manual and owners handbooks covering the P38, L322 and Defender. Download it from https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzxqPPypF5J5b1ZlU3RpMmVwanc/view?usp=sharing.

As an iso image file it needs to be burned to a CD and will then run directly from that by clicking the RAVE.exe file. I've always copied the full CD to hard drive and then run it from there it's much faster.

?? There's a full electrical troubleshooting manual in RAVE, the workshop manual.

But you'd make the workshop dirty!! I've been there, as have you, you can eat your dinner off the floor......

I suspect they are over 226g/km as up until 23 March 2006 band K was the highest they went up to so it included everything with a CO2 figure of over 201g/km but after that date band K cuts' off at 225g/km and the next band applies. Sometimes it throws up some interesting ones. My missus has a 2007 Mercedes SLK 280 (3.0 litre V6) and that comes out at 227 g/km so costs her £585 a year (band L, 226-255g/km) but following a remap and a couple of other minor tweaks for the 2008MY version, the CO2 figure drops to 224g/km which brings it into the next band down (band K, 201-225g/km) so the road tax drops to £340 a year. Equally, if her car was a year older it would fall into band K even though it has a figure of 227g/km.

But, I shouldn't need to tell you this (and there shouldn't need to be any discussion on Subaru forums either), it's all explained perfectly clearly here https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-tax-rate-tables/rates-for-cars-registered-on-or-after-1-march-2001. Then again, many Subaru owners don't even know which why round a baseball cap should be worn......

and Brian beat me to it.

No, it's always been 2001. The reason why an import, even a new one, is on the flat rate is because the V5 doesn't show a CO2 figure as it isn't checked at the IVA test. It can work out quite a bit cheaper on some cars. I registered an imported Bentley Continental GT Speed that had to go through the IVA process so no CO2 figure on the V5 meant the flat rate of £280 a year, compared with £600 a year if it had been on the sliding scale. Not so sure about ULEZ though. Before ULEZ there was the T Charge and imports didn't have to pay it as the CO2 details weren't known but I understand under ULEZ no CO figure means they charge it no matter what the emissions are (or they'd be losing out on income).

It also catches people out on cars that were available at the changeover time. A good example is the Honda HR-V which was built between 98 and 06. An early one pays the £280 flat rate (1.6 VTech engine) but a later one costs £340 as the CO2 figure is 205g/km.