You don't need a blower motor, just the controller. Running flat out all the time means, as Sloth says, that the power transistors have gone short circuit. The controller is the same as used on various Peugeot/Citroen vehicles, see https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153186756109.

V8 Developments, £2330 for a fully reconditioned 4.6 engine (http://www.v8developments.co.uk/products/engines/long_engines/index.shtml) and they really know their stuff. Give them a bell and speak to Ray.

On the 4.0SE I used to have, one of them would fall out every time I opened the bonnet until I glued it down with silicone.

What pressure did you Nitrogen test at and how long did you leave it? Even the smallest pinhole leak can allow it to empty completely over a period of a couple of weeks. Backing off one coupling and watching the pressure on the other will test the valve.

The diesel is fly by wire, the pedal sends a signal to the engine ECU, when cruise is on a signal is sent that simulates you holding the pedal down but adjusts if the speed changes due to going up or down hill.

I've got the clips and the mats but not the things that hold the mats down to the clips. Not that bothered though as the mats don't seem to move about.

Not on mine, that was on another one.

If it's become less effective it could have a slight leak (top corner of the condenser being favourite) but that would only bring the book on if it was so low that the pressure switch won't let the compressor clutch engage. Other possibility, if the airflow is poor, is one dead blower which would bring the book on as it would fail the self test on initial switch on. Yes, the book will disappear on the HEVAC once you've sorted the fault as it finds no current faults on self test.

davew wrote:

(I remember that CEO too: Much more interested in a fast-track career that anything even remotely technical.)

Or more interested in the money. As CEO of Ofcom she got around £300k a year with her bonus, the basic salary for CEO of John Lewis is £990k a year. Even after tax and other deductions, that works out at over £40k a month take home pay.......

Today I got very hot and sweaty. One minor problem that can occur on a V8 with top hat liners and ARP stud kit, is head gasket leaks. Not the usual sort of head gasket leak but oil and/or coolant leaks. Engine runs fine but it can leak from the block to head joint. The fire rings are firmly clamped between the top of the liners and the heads but the rest of the gasket isn't and with the 65 ft/lb torque for the studs, it will eventually start to leak. Not a huge leak, not enough to drop on the floor but enough to put spots on my back bumper and tailgate. Bear in mind that my engine was bolted together 158,000 miles ago so it isn't something likely to happen at any moment. The LH head was leaking coolant at the rear coolant passage at a rate of about half a litre every 500 miles but it was dripping onto the front propshaft UJ and being thrown around everywhere. The RH head was leaking oil (half a litre every 2-3000 miles) which was dripping onto the starter motor. Lots of current, potential of sparks and a covering of oil could have meant it fired up in a different way to how I would like.

So, I started it last night when it was a bit cooler and got it down to the heads in about 3 hours. Continued this morning and initially It was quite pleasant but by mid morning it was getting a bit warm. I was working outside with the nose of the car facing West so I had the sun on my back a lot of the time. I turned the ignition on at one point (with the fuel pump relay pulled as the fuel pipes were disconnected) and the HEVAC said the external temperature was 32 degrees C. My AC testing thermometer sitting on the fusebox lid didn't agree and was reading 48.3C and it felt like it! Anyway, heads came off, cleaned them up, cleaned up the top of the block and, despite having to keep going into the house for another pint of water to offset the amount I was losing in sweat, had it all bolted back together and fired up by around 5pm. Had I thought about it I could have left it for a few hours so I would have been finishing it off this evening when it was cooler but I had already arranged to go out at around 6pm so had it finished, tools all put away and into the shower by 5:15. Shouldn't need to touch the engine for another 150,000 or so now.

Dave, what you have to remember is the average staff member in Halfords falls into the 'pay peanuts and employ monkeys' category. The buyers will buy in whatever product they think might sell, irrespective of what it is or its legality. In my previous life I did a 6 week stint in the Spectrum Management Centre when they were short of staff. One of the jobs done when on night shift was to troll through eBay and Amazon looking for items being advertised that were illegal for use in the UK (and EU too in most cases). Amazon will sell whatever a supplier offers them and would only remove it when they were told they were committing an offence. One amusing case involved the former Chief Executive being taken out shopping with a Compliance Officer who found an illegal item being sold by John Lewis, made amusing by the fact that the Chief Executive was one Sharon White, who is now CEO at John Lewis......

Their advert is wrong, EZ-Chill in NOT R134a, it is a leak sealer and a refrigerant that will mix with R134a but it moist definitely isn't R134a. I suppose they put that to stop people trying to put it in a modern system with R1234YF.....

You need a window regulator as yours has worn teeth at the top of the travel. https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/window-regulator-front-britpart-cvf100740-alr78-p-114.html

I suspect most of us have had it at some time, mine was doing it when I first got it and it was only 12 years old then.

Of course, as I've just come in for some lunch. The point is that R134a is the stuff being ILLEGALLY sold by Halfords, however, I doubt anyone has ever bothered to tell Trading Standards so nobody has ever told Halfords. The trade are more concerned about the companies that will sell Chinese made, pre-charged, Multi-Split domestic AC systems to anybody even though they try to cover themselves by clearly stating that they will only supply with evidence of FGas qualification but will actually supply to anyone that asks. and before you go out and buy one to prove the point Dave, I commission tested one a couple of weeks ago and they are absolute crap......

davew wrote:

-Seriously I suspect you are just wearing your professional hat there, I have certainly re-gassed from a can,
without breaking any rules and/or having to eat any porridge...

You may have committed an offence but whoever sold you the can certainly did unless you showed them your C&G 7543 (Mobile AC) or 2079 (full FGas) certificate, see https://www.gov.uk/guidance/selling-f-gas-or-equipment. Halfords will sell you a can (and probably don't realise that they shouldn't) but technically they shouldn't. My local ECP want to see the certificate before they will supply R134a.

Welcome, most of us on here own the later P38 but there's many bits that are pretty similar and faults that can affect a car can be the same no matter what make or model it is. I used to own a 93 Vogue LSE, the long wheelbase version and I've helped a mate do a full restoration on a 95 Vogue LSE, the soft dash version (which seems to be the bastard love child of a Range Rover Classic and a Discovery 2). Only difference is that his was on coils when he first got it and after the restoration was done found the ride to be terrible on rough roads so we got hold of lots of secondhand EAS bits and put it back to how it should be. He was expecting an improvement (having previously owned a P38) but wasn't ready for just how much better it would be.

If you still have the memory seat ECU, I'll have that to repair (if it hasn't gone too far). Hot wiring direct to the switches is an option but without the ECU you lose the mirror adjustment unless you change the mirrors for ones from a car without the memory ECU.

Clonk is likely to be wear in a diff unless it is a propshaft UJ on it's way out. In fact a UJ running dry could also give a scraping noise too. They aren't easy to check without disconnecting one end of the propshaft but if you try squirting grease into the nipple and it all squirts out again, that's a sure sign of wear.

They should, not may, so they are correct. No mention of a pressure test though.....

davew wrote:

Part of the problem is if you don't use the A/C the seals/o-rings can shrink of course (and just re-gassing may not fully resolve that issue). If you have not run the A/C for a while a vacuum test is advised before re-gassing too.

Not advised, mandatory. Process is recover any remaining refrigerant, pressure test with Oxygen Free Nitrogen to 10 bar, vacuum out, then, and only then, as long as the pressure test and vacuum don't show any leaks, regas. That's what the automatic machines do and that's why it takes about an hour as they put the Nitrogen in and wait to see if the pressure drops.

In winter it kicks in automatically if you put the HEVAC on defrost as the AC dehumidifies the air and dry air will demist your screen a lot faster than damp air.

Nobody thinks about it until it gets hot. In the last week I've had over 20 enquires about installing AC in houses and have booked myself up fully from Friday until the 9th Aug. and there was me thinking I'd have a little part time sideline to top up the pension after I retired......

Totally agree, particularly on the P38 (and quite a few other cars) where the system is designed to be on all the time and it regulates the temperature by mixing hot and cold air. When I was working we had a fleet of Astra vans which were replaced after 5 years with Kangoo vans. Both had the manual AC on button and I switched it on and left it on all the time, whereas others only switched it on when it got warm. On both the Astra and the Kangoo, I was the only one that didn't have to get the system re-gassed when summer arrived. It's like everything else on a car, if you keep using it, it keeps on working, if you leave it, chances are it will stop