This place https://turbozentrum.co.uk/ is far more reliable at supplying silicone hoses that ASH who advertise stuff they don't have in stock then try to sell you something different. I bought some single ply reinforced 8mm hose to replace the rigid plastic radiator breather and throttle body heater pipes, this stuff https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223571087756. Their postage on eBay is a bit steep but if buying a few bits and pieces off their website it isn't too bad.
If you has asked his time yesterday, I had a car in that exact same state here but it's all back together now. The wiring is clipped to the underside of the dash panel so assume it goes over the top.
We all know how expensive door latches are and how much grief they can cause, but it seems that if you have a GEMS with a dodgy drivers door latch, there's another option (as Marty is still away and not able to supply refurbed ones). Some may be aware that the MG TF uses the same latches as the GEMS P38, the only difference being that they have 6 + 2 way plugs rather than the 6 + 1 on the P38. Not a problem though as you only need to use the black wire in the 2 way connector and ignore the extra grey one that the MG latch has. However, while Rimmers have huge stocks of latches for LHD cars at ridiculously cheap prices (probably because there's not that many LHD MGs in the UK), latches for RHD MGs are around the same price as latches for RHD P38s. Every supplier seems to want £200 or thereabouts plus the VAT. All except one it seems, how about this https://www.ukmgparts.com/product/mgf-mgf14-exterior-bodyshell-panels/door-lock-rh-mgf-tf-rhd-fqj102262pma. There are two part numbers for the MG latch, the other one is FJQ000080PMA which you don't want as it is for the basic MG without central locking so doesn't have the microswitches we need.
If you have a Thor the plug is different. It uses a single 8 way plug but the latches are the same as on the GEMS so if you need one and don't mind getting involved in a bit of soldering and swapping the plug over, the MG one will work in a Thor too.
A late model, Thor, 4.0 litre P38 is ULEZ compliant. A GEMS isn't and a 4.6 isn't and the 4.0 litre shouldn't be as they are all Euro 3, so it is obviously a mistake on the part of TfL. How long the situation will stay like that is anyone's guess but sooner or later they will realise and close the loophole I'm sure.
It's very shiny.....
and running the same Kleber Citilanders I put on mine a few months ago.
Don't know but it's another possible. When I went to look at it last week I took a clamp on ammeter with me but as we knew the BeCM wasn't sleeping, that was what we concentrated on. With hindsight, we should have checked for any other current draw after the BeCM was sleeping.
Looking towards the rear from the front of the car.
Loom goes underneath the engine mount, doesn't appear to be clipped anywhere, with the tails to the starter going upwards. Ignore the additional white cable there, that is for the extra 0-1V lambda sensor in my RH downpipe to feed the LPG system.
Checked that as it is one of the things that keeps the BeCM awake. As the BeCM is now going to sleep, staying asleep and the sensor has been changed anyway, it has to be something else that is permanently powered. To take a fully charged, new, battery down to completely dead in 48 hours says it's something drawing a fair amount of current.
I'll have a look tomorrow as I intend getting under mine to see if I can sort out the lambda sensor heater error so I can try running it on E85 next time I'm in France.
It's not just urban-centric but London centric. Nobody needs to have a car, they can use public transport they say. If you are in London with a bus every 2 or 3 minutes and a tube station just down the road, yes you can but if.like me, you live in a village 6 miles outside a city with a bus once an hour up until 9pm, if you haven't got a car you are stuck. If you are even more rural, then what I have is probably considered practical. In rural areas a car isn't a luxury, it's a necessity.
AWR2227, see https://www.lrdirect.com/awr2227-screw
Screwfix no nonsense heavy duty degreaser and a pressure washer.
Bad connection, doesn't always make. Or the starter relay in the fusebox.
The Clarkes parts washers aren't that bad actually. We fully equipped a mates workshop in France with stuff from Machine Mart. If you have the space in your workshop, you could always install a second hand dishwasher.....
Does it go click or nothing at all?
You don't really need a sparky, just someone that can use a soldering iron. If, as I suspect, you are talking about the connectors behind the footwell kick panels, it just needs doing carefully, one wire at a time. Snip one wire at one connector, solder a short jumper wire to it, snip the matching one from the other connector, solder the jumper wire to it and then move on to the next wire.
davew wrote:
RAC say they will use tracking technology; Big Bother Is Watching You ! (sic)
Sales of GPS jammers will go through the roof then......
Gulp.... I did 28,000 miles between MoTs in the last year and that included lockdown where we were only doing essential journeys.
Make sure the casing of the radio is connected to a good earth and not relying on the one in the power plug (assuming it is using standard DIN connections). It shouldn't matter which one you use as long as it is a clean earth. Failing alternator is a possibility. I recently bought one of these https://www.veconline.co.uk/new-replacement-12-volt-lucas-type-alternator-regulator-a127im-vrf153a-138789?search=282504162073 for the original Marelli alternator, set point at 14.7 volts too.
When the crank position sensor starts failing it will usually cut out when it gets hot but restart once it has cooled down, it wouldn't normally restart immediately.