I assume you are talking about the accumulator? If the pump runs every time you press the brake pedal, it is getting weak but unless the warning lights come on if you do it when you are stationary, it still has some life left in it. You should be able to press the brake pedal 3 or 4 times before the pump cuts in. As for the MoT failure, that was nothing to do with the accumulator, that was the ABS kicking in as it was tested on a 2 wheel roller. It was applying the brakes on the wheels that were turning faster than the others. So with two wheels not moving and two that were, it will kick in and apply the brakes to the ones that are turning. The warning light coming on tells you the ABS is doing what it was designed to do.
Second post appeared, similar to this one, so user is now banned.
Agreed, it's coming on because the ABS is operating. Any car with permanent 4x4 (and that includes things like Audis) they MUST NOT use a two wheel rolling road brake tester. Not only can it bugger the car but also the tester. Tell the tester to do it again after he's read the testers manual https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/1-brakes. If they try to test the parking brake on a roller it will also fail as it tests one wheel at a time but as the brake is on the propshaft, the side being tested will rotate one way while the other one rotates the other way and the test shows zero braking performance.
Pump coming on more than it should means the accumulator is getting weak, but that won't cause the ABS light alone to come on, the TC light would come on too if the pressure drops too much.
Thanks for the compliment but without the Nanocom we'd never have found it. Open the door and the interior lights come on, close it, wait for the time out and they go out. That says it isn't anything to do with the door ajar switch. So you'd start looking elsewhere and find nothing. It was only when I noticed the BeCM thought the door was open when it wasn't and didn't change state when it was, that I realised something wasn't quite right. That needed the Nano to be able to see the inputs to the BeCM, even the BeCM SID doesn't mention that there is obviously two inputs triggered by the door ajar switch.
I wondered what the point was when it first appeared too. If he (she?) comes back and replies, then fair enough, if it is a spambot, then it will go away never to be seen again.
After pressure testing you vacuum the system out anyway so any moisture, air or remaining Nitrogen is sucked out anyway.
Back on topic, isn't HHO Browns gas, what you get after you have electrolysed water? The stuff that people claim you can run your car on?
Nitrogen will also find any tiny leaks better which is why it is used to pressure test air con systems. So if putting it in tyres you need to be absolutely sure there's no leaks.
Not sure if RSW V4 can show live data, I don't believe it can, in which case it would have been no good with finding the fault we had. Good for most things but still not as comprehensive, or convenient, as the Nanocom.
That's what I was thinking. Bit of surface rust but nothing to worry about.
Pics don't work......
Modern boots don't seem to last that long these days. A couple of MoT's ago I replaced the complete tie bar that runs between the two hubs with a Lemforder unit. The following year both boots were down as advisories for splits. They aren't rubber any longer but seem to be some sort of vinyl.
It was slinging it down with rain and I had two jobs I wanted to do but both were outside so it was a choice of sitting in the house getting bored, get soaked working outside or take a 35 minute drive over to Phil's and see if we could find his problem. So I chose the latter......
He's still got one problem, even after getting the OBD socket working, his Hawkeye appeared to connect but the BeCM settings were French, LHD, GEMS (it's a Thor), manual (it's an auto), etc, all the usual signs of not connecting properly, even though my Nanocom showed everything correctly. First time I've even seen a Hawkeye though so couldn't really help with that.
and it's time for bed..... Went over this afternoon to give Phil a hand and see if we could work out the problem. He'd tried his Haweye and it wouldn't wake up so I tried my Nanocom and that wouldn't either. OBD socket was a bit green but not too bad. Checked Fuse 33 that supplies power to the OBD socket and found it was blown. Replaced that and the Nano fired up. Started checking things and noticed something odd. With the left front door shut, the input to the BeCM from the door ajar switch showed it to be open. Open the door and it still showed as open. However, what was really weird was that the interior lights were working as they should from that door. When Phil had got the car the left front door was superlocked so he'd replaced the door latch so that was known to be good. So the only thing between the latch and the BeCM was the door outstation. Stole one from Phil's other P38, put that in and the Nano reported a change of state when the door was opened or closed. Closed all the doors, locked the car, waited 2 minutes and it went to sleep.
So, although everything appeared to be fine and was working, for some reason the LH front door outstation was telling the BeCM that the door was open although it wasn't......
It carries the data line to the LH front door outstation so it will affect the locking function. Although that doesn't seem to be relevant as far as the BeCM sleeping or not is concerned.
That's C362, and the only things the SID says on that connector that can keep the BeCM awake are the left rear door being open or a signal from the ultrasonic sensor.
Just deleted a couple of my posts where I'd completely confused myself. C362 connects to both front and rear left side windows (not door latches), so via the outstation in the front door and direct to the rear door. Does the left rear electric window switch work?
Should do. On the Nanocom you look under the BeCM settings and it shows what is fitted and what isn't (things like front fogs, cruise control, sunroof, etc) and you set sunroof to Disabled so it no longer beeps and tells you it is unset.
Do you have a copy of the BeCM SID? pages 10-15 give a list of all the inputs that will keep a BeCM awake and a checking flowchart.
Was it only the HEVAC you had out or have you had the blowers out or disconnected? They have an additional black wire as well as the 4 or 5 in the plug to the controller. They do nothing at all if that isn't connected.