Yes, all you've got is the BBC multiplex although no idea where from, the transmitter checkers don't show any transmitter sites north of Mounteagle, just north of Inverness, but that carries 3 multplexes.
1Steven wrote:
Can I pick up a 12v supply in the boot?
Yes, behind the LH rear light there's an unused 4 way connector put there for twin socket electrics. It has permanent live, ignition switched live, reverse light feed and ground in it.
Surprised you've got DAB reception in your area though.
As I understand it, and will admit I have had one that didn't seat properly so leaked, it is only the very thing ones that go on the top of the solenoid plunger. In the kit they are marked as Solenoid plunger seal and there are 7 of them. They are about the only ones that don't leak and the ones where you need to take to actual valve apart (two little Philips head screws), if you are concerned, then don't strip the valves to change them.
Checked my GEMS a few minutes ago. Fuel rail lost all pressure when I connected my pressure gauge, but turned the ignition on and it immediately jumped up to 40psi, started the engine and it dropped to 30psi but as soon as the engine started, stabilised at 35psi. Switched the engine off and it sat at 35psi for a good 15 minutes without dropping at all. So yours is definitely leaking somewhere.
As David says, the round thing on the input hose is to smooth out any surges in the fuel line. The pressure regulator is on the opposite side hiding behind the throttle linkage and excess pressure is fed back to the tank on the other hose. I'm assuming that if there is a one way valve, it will be inside the pump but if that had failed it would be a bit of a coincidence that it has decided to do it at the very same moment you have had the fuel rail off. You could try clamping the return hose and seeing if the pressure still drops, that would suggest the pressure regulator or a leak at the top of one of the injectors. The O rings can get pinched when you put the rail back on, but the leak should be obvious, you'll have fuel running out of the rail and flooding onto the top of the inlet manifold.
That's right. They are intended to be used to blow up each corner individually if the valve block, ECU or compressor dies. With no power to the ECU (or by unplugging the multiway connector to the EAS box) all valves will be closed. No good if one of the valves is leaking badly though as the air will all go out through that. That's why I prefer to carry a set of push on Schrader valves to just put in the end of the lines to the airsprings (although the only time I've ever needed them, I only had 3 in the car....).
If you check it and Nano says Security Set, it means it has received a valid signal from the BeCM, it's only when it says Unset (or No, can't remember) that you have a problem. However, if you have a Nanocom you can go into Security Learn (Inputs-Others) and cycle the ignition on and back off again. Security will change to Set.
Engine Tuning Data
Air Mass flow at sea level - Engine fully warm, in neutral gear, all loads off
At idle....................................... 20 kg/hr +- 3 kg/hr
At 2,500 rpm............................. 61 kg/hr +- 3 kg/hr
Upload of a pdf document which is the title page of the old technical pages but links to the originals via the Wayback machine https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AsML-CAOWda5cB9gbDohQekBRSYhciw2/view?usp=sharing
GEMS has a pressure regulator on the fuel rail, at the back on the LH side (as seen from the drivers seat). It also has a vacuum hose that comes off the regulator and goes into a stub on the lower inlet manifold. It's well hidden down behind the throttle body and below the connector to the ignition coils. Fuel pressure should be there even after the car has been left standing but the pump will run for a couple of seconds when you switch on the ignition and then all the time the engine is turning. You can use any pressure gauge, tyre gauge will work fine (although it's probably a good idea to run it for a bit to blow the fuel and vapour out before using it to blow up your tyres).
I've had a few pheasants over the years but mostly in company vehicles so they repaired the damage. It seems they will always take off in the direction they are facing, so if they are sitting on the verge facing the road, they are about to take off in front of you and not turn around and fly away from you. Hit one once when I was racing motorcross so had the bike on a trailer behind the car. Hit at the top of the windscreen, sheared the roof aerial off as it slid along the roof and ended up wrapped around the handlebars of the bike. Didn't find it until I arrived at the track.....
Could be a lot worse though. Many years ago a friend hit a bullock on a country road in the middle of the night. Took its legs out from under it so the body landed on the top of the windscreen. Fortunately, he was driving a rally replica Mitsubishi Colt complete with full roll cage or it would have crushed the passenger compartment. Wrote the car off but the bullock rolled off the car, got up and ran back to its field.
At the moment around here there seem to be a lot of dead badgers at the side of the road, they must do quite a bit of damage but at least it'll be low down.
There's always a bit of slack anyway, but if you can turn the prop back and forth and hear a clack, clack from inside the transfer case as you turn it, that is the chain. It can be like that for years but as soon as it starts to jump a tooth when you pull away sharply or on a hill, then the time has come to change it. I did mine just under a year ago after it had done around 410k but it had reached the stage where I had to be gentle on the throttle when pulling away from a standstill.
Welcome.
As for your jobs, headlining is easy if there are two, or preferably three, of you. Hardest part is a toss up between getting the sunroof cover out or opening the little flaps over the screws on the sun visor clips.
Sunroof, many have tried and most have failed, with working climate control I'm not sure why you'd need it. Don't waste your money on the 3D printed replacement bits for the mechanism, I did, I then spent 3 days filing and fettling until everything moved smoothly and it went crack on the second time of opening it.
Top and bottom ball joints are reasonably simple if you have the correct tool for pressing the old ones out and the new ones in. If you don't, find someone who does, has done it before and can do it for you.
Can't help you at all on the engine stuff, I don't do oil burners but someone else can probably help.
Shocks, original were Boge but they are NLA. The Britpart ones are dirt cheap and are supposed to be the same as the Boge originals. A couple of people have fitted them and found them to be fine. No idea how long they will last but have got to be worth it for the price. Bump stops just push on so no problems there, although a smear of silicone or rubber grease will help them slip on.
Brake callipers may well be the sliding pins on the calliper carrier not sliding any more rather than the calliper itself. Easy check is if one pad is worn thing that the other.
Exhaust, try Maltings Off Road, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272214704154
Gearbox may be fine. Not sure how it works on the diesel but on the petrol the gearbox takes it's input from the MAF sensor so the gearbox ECU uses that to gauge load and hence when to change gear. So a gearbox problem may be linked to an engine problem rather than the gearbox itself.
Mirrors, who knows? It might be a failing switchpack, dead motors in the mirrors or stripped gears. You'd need to check if power is getting to the mirror first. Your Nanocom will allow you to move the mirrors if they will. If they can be moved with the Nanocom, it is the switchpack.
Amused me that Phil suggested you get a Nanocom when he doesn't have one himself. I was at his house on Friday to use mine to calibrate his EAS......
I suspect the bull bar brackets will be part of the bull bar kit rather than having a part number of their own. See if you can find them on http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234
Depends on how the driving lights have been wired in but you shouldn't get a bulb failure message. Should be easy enough to disconnect them and try it.
Chasman wrote:
I assume all the solenoids open when you turn them off? That means I won't be able to inflate the car which currently has no compressor because inlet will be open to the atmosphere. Correct?
No, with no power they are all closed. Inlet isn't open due to the diaphragm valve being closed. Or, you can do as I did here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/2605-eas-compressor-ring-recommendation?page=1#pid36021 and put the air straight into the port that would have the reservoir connected to it and energise each valve in turn. To do that, unplug the connector in the front of the EAS box where the cabling from the ECU connects to the driver pack. See the diagram:
This is a picture of the plug from the ECU so the pin numbering is upside down, but if you look at the plug with male pins in the EAS box and follow from there. Put 12V onto pins 10 and 11 and ground on pins 12 and 13 (a standard spade terminal will push over both pins). Then you can check each solenoid feed in turn by putting 12V onto the corresponding pin. So pin 5 = rear left, pin 4 = rear right, pin 3 = front left, pin 2 = front right, pin 1 = inlet valve and pin 9 = exhaust valve. If you open the inlet valve and the valve for one corner, as long as you have some pressure built up, that corner will rise.
Why do you want to alter the speed signal? If purely so the speedo reads correctly with different sized tyres, unless you are going really silly with tyre sizes, you can almost certainly do it using the speedo calibration pots on the instrument panel pcb.
I looked at the Pure, as I've got a Pure DAB tuner in the house, when the cheapo Halfords DAB adapter in the other half's car died. Only reason I didn't go for it was the actual receiver section is incorporated in the antenna and she already had a DAB antenna on the car. Ended up getting one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254817833872 which works really well. It depends what you want, if you want the Pure so you have a display and it will give you Bluetooth connectivity as well. Pure stuff is usually very good too.
From the diagram on page 23 of this document https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PK5oMkoJ89oDyhTkzcw9dbcL3ObFBVfQ/view?usp=sharing
We realised something was wrong with it when the compressor had been running for a good 10 minutes, the car still hadn't done anything but on switching it off, the familiar tick, tick, tick came from the valve block as it should have been self levelling and dropping 3 corners to match the lowest one but one corner rose instead. At that point I fitted a spare, known good, valve block and I took the suspect one away to check later. After much head scratching I realised someone had been juggling with the solenoid coils and all bar two were in the wrong place. Even the two on the bottom were reversed!
Does the dead compressor run if you put power to the green wire and ground to the black?
Is the air from the compressor coming straight out of the exhaust port? If it is, it's the diaphragm valve leaking. Check that some air has gone into the reservoir by pulling the pipe to that one (the single one nearest the front of the car with a purple sleeve on it). Lift a solenoid coil at a time and squirt leak detect spray on the top of the visible valves to check for leakage there. You may also have bad connections in the connector between the driver pack and solenoids. I was given a valve block that had been fitted with a new kit but the O rings looked near new and the PO of the car had spent a fortune on EAS work, including a valve block rebuild. Turned out that whoever had done it previously had got the solenoid coils mixed up so it was trying to open the wrong valves. Could be that the eBay valve block has been taken apart before being sold by someone that didn't know what they were doing.
None of this explains why the compressor doesn't run though. Normal problem is an open circuit thermal switch so it won't run when commanded to by the ECU but will if you jumper the relay.
If you go into the EAS menu on the Nanocom, select Inputs and scroll across until you get to the screen that shows valve status. It will be showing front closed and rear open (as it always raises the rear first), next screens will show compressor On or Off, pressure switch status (should be Open) and Inlet valve should be Open too. Anything other than that and something very weird is happening.
Nice one, I suspect you are correct and that is why they went over to the two pin sensor on later cars. Wouldn't have expected 6.1 Ohms to have made that much difference though.
I've been using these https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pneumatic-fittings/0812106 for years and haven't had one leak yet, for a Tee you'd need this https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pneumatic-fittings/0812083. They are rated at 20 bar, so twice the maximum you are ever going to see in the EAS system, at -20 to +80C.