I think that's the new standard Euro 13 pin (where only 12 are used, hence 12N), original UK socket was a 7 pin which I assume is the same as in Europe (as I once bought a trailer in France and the plug fitted my car and all the lights worked). The US use a really weird 4 pin thing that isn't compatible with anything else due to them using the same bulb for stop lights and indicators.

One thing to bear in mind if you have a problem with the fob. If the car was locked with the fob and unlocked with the key, from then on every time you unlock the car you will need to enter the EKA to turn the immobiliser off (assuming you have an EKA programmed) until it is next unlocked with the fob. However, if the EKA is entered with a Nanocom then you can lock and unlock with the key and the immobiliser will be turned off. Quite how it works on a car with no EKA programmed I've no idea but you can check it easily enough. Lock it with the fob then unlock with the key. If it is still immobilised you have a problem until you next unlock with the fob. The key blade is a BMW blank and you should be able to get a spare cut easily enough.

There's always the guy in Wales that can supply a non-original keyfob.

They are TE Connectivity connectors, RS part number 531-4540 (https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/wire-housings-plugs/5314540/) or 531-4607 for the 4 way. I can't remember which one fits into the plug that is there (one is for the plug, the other for the socket and the pics on the RS site should tell you). So for the other one (8 way but with only 7 ways used) you would need 362-9064 or 362-9187. You'll also need the connectors to go into the housings but they only come in packs of 50, part numbers 712-1911 or 712-1921.

The one on the RH side gives you the standard 7 wires for a 7 way trailer socket, whereas the 4 way one on the LH side gives the additional ones used if you have dual sockets or the modern 12 way socket. That one has a permanent live, ignition switched live, reversing light feed and ground.

Yes it should be. I've had an OMVL R90E, BRC AT90 and eGas reducers all plumbed in series and no restriction to the flow on any. Maybe something is stuck inside it?

Not that I know of, unless there's any adjustment at the lever end. There definitely isn't at the latch end.

That TSB updates the system to that used on the Thor where instead of the HEVAC driving the clutch directly, it powers a relay which switches battery voltage to the clutch. It needs the big resistor as the early HEVAC will detect if insufficient current is being drawn (the amount needed by the relay compared with the amount needed by the clutch) so will assume the pressure switch is open due to a lack of refrigerant and not try to operate the clutch again.

I always start the engine first before trying to connect to the HEVAC and it will often come up with a can't connect error but if I back out of it and try again it almost always connects the second time. You should be getting 12V out of the HEVAC when it tries to engage the compressor clutch but it is 12V and not full battery voltage so I suspect there is a regulator in there (or the volt drop through whatever is doing the switching drops it a touch). Check at the multiway behind the RH kick panel and see if you are getting a voltage there. Also have a look at the readings from the sensors, someone on .net found that he had an open circuit evaporator temp sensor which meant the HEVAC wasn't trying to engage the compressor as it thought the evaporator was cold enough already.

If the tracking (toe in/out) needs adjustment, they'll chirp or if the VC is starting to seize they will too, otherwise they shouldn't.

Long levers on the two outputs.

From the Ashcroft Transmissions website:
Viscous unit - rolling resistance Bench check NOTE: Testing should be carried out in an ambient of 20 deg C.

1) Secure the output shaft ...

2) Apply a clockwise torque of 27 Nm to the (front propshaft) output flange nut. If no resistance to turn is felt, unit requires replacing.

3) If resistance to turn is felt, apply a clockwise torque of 20Nm to the (front propshaft) output flange nut for 1 minute, this should result in a rotation of approximately 25 deg - 30 deg. If no rotation or a greater force is required, unit requires replacing.

27 Nm = 20 lbf-ft 20 Nm = 15 lbf-ft

A new one comes with a piece of tape on it holding it centred. If you take one out you are supposed to do it with the wheel centred then put a bit of tape on it so it can't be rotated while the wheel is off. Problem with ones from a breaker is that they often don't bother so you've no idea if it is centred or not.

Are you centralising them correctly? I've never known one fail. It's a thin ribbon cable so if it isn't centralised it will pull out at one end or the other on full lock.

Yes, 7822 is the NGK part number.

Or find someone near you with a Nanocom. Lincs goes a long way North (and they keep moving the boundary), where are you near?

Snap-on, Solus, etc are OBD code readers so will only connect to the engine ECU, not the ABS or SRS ECUs. For that you need something intended for use on the P38 such as a Nanocom, Hawkeye, etc.

'95 will be GEMS so NGK BPR6ES plugs. Yes, they are steel into aluminium so can be tight if they've been in there for a long time. I always smear the threads with Graphite Grease when I put new ones in although others use Copper Grease. Don't suppose it makes much difference but anything to prevent them seizing in has to be worthwhile.

Probably because the whole world knows they are diabolical (I had a Maestro as a company car many years ago) so when they need repairs costing more than £20 they got scrapped. One day they will be almost extinct so the odd person thinks they might be worth something solely because of their rarity (and as an example of how bad cars were in the old days).

I banned Games_Bebra a couple of days ago, so maybe at the same time you were trying to do it. Or I got to him a few seconds before you did and it wouldn't let you ban him as he was already banned. I've noticed that odd things happen on LPGforum when we are both logged in and obviously dealing with spam at the same time. We're just too good, that's the problem.......

I always start at extended and work down. One jack under the towbar and another on the front crossmember just in front of the radiator. Jack it up, fit the extended blocks, then use the Nano to let the air out and lower the jacks so it is sitting on the blocks. Note the Live Heights and store them in the extended height boxes. Jack it a bit so you can get the blocks out and fit the standard height set, lower the jacks and do the same. Same for the motorway height and access. With two people, one at each end, and a couple of trolley jacks, it shouldn't take longer than about half and hour. I found that the access blocks are only marginally taller than the bumpstops which makes getting them out a pain so drilled and tapped an M6 hole in the end so I can screw a bolt into them and use that to pull them out.

Mine felt fine too and as I didn't have a puller that went deep enough to get on them, I kept the originals. Replaced all the others though and the seals. Although my casings weren't that dirty, they didn't get the same treatment as yours, they went back mildly cleaner than when they came out.

I think they make the perfect point, a differentiation between classic cars and old cars. Take it down to 30 years and you are looking at anything pre-1991 and while you may not see them everyday there's still plenty of doggy old motors running around. There's a guy in my village running a J plate Renault and there's no way that would be considered a classic.