I have a feeling that all later cars were fitted with a highline BeCM anyway, so it almost certainly does. Blank with no symbol on the HEVAC does mean it never had the heated screen.

For the seat looms your best bet is to find a car in a breakers although there are multiple part numbers depending on whether it is pre or post 99 (up to WA of from XA VIN) and whether you have electric seats or electric memory seats (where you would need the seat outstation too). Most appear to be available to buy new too. See http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234/88880/89292/7043/89377

Lpgc wrote:

But it's a bit ironic that throughout school people of my age (50) were told that the Earth was headed for another ice age and were shown statistics/ graphs to back that up lol!

I remember being told the very same thing and 15 years prior to you so that theory lasted for quite some time. But, it's like many other things, experts tell us what is good for us or the planet until another bunch of experts come along and tell us something different. They decided to remove lead from petrol as it was alleged to cause retarded brain development in children. They seemed to ignore the fact that most paints in use at that time were lead based and children do have a habit of putting things in their mouth so while some of the lead could have, and probably did, come from exhaust fumes, it wasn't the only source. Removing the lead meant they had to use chemical additives instead but when they were burnt, all sorts of nasty things came out of the exhaust so the answer to that was to fit catalytic converters that turn all the nasty toxins into nice harmless Carbon Dioxide. It must be harmless right? It's what we breath out and the trees then turn it back into Oxygen. Suddenly, CO2 is the bad boy as it will cause global warming, so everyone is encouraged to buy a diesel as they produce less. The experts are happy, CO2 output from road vehicles is reducing but Oh No, there's all this other stuff that diesels produce, NOx, particulates, etc, so now they are the spawn of the Devil. At the moment it is electric vehicles that are the saviour of the world but how long before sufficient experts tell us that the Lithium mining to produce the batteries is doing untold harm to the planet and their view is taken on board? There is already concern about disposal of end of life batteries.

So at the moment EVs are the way everyone is being pushed towards but despite the proposed ban on new ICE powered vehicles from 2030 or 2035 or whenever the Government of the day announces, why are manufacturers still developing and producing hybrids which will be affected by the same ban? Could it be that they are just hedging their bets and waiting for the next bunch of experts to overturn what is the accepted solution at the moment?

We seem to have got way off topic on this thread, but it's interesting none the less.

You just need to ask for a type 634 or 644 battery. That dictates the physical size and terminal type and orientation. Then you want at least 107Ah and a CCA figure as close to 1000A as you can get. It's commonly used in smaller trucks and tractors.

Up to 99 MY (all GEMS in other words) had 2 wheel TC if they had it. It was only the Thor that got 4 wheel TC.

Light steering means you are right and had too much nose weight. Although the EAS keeps the car level, there's still more weight on the back axle than the front. When loading the weight on the back of the trailer will try to lift the back end initially then drive (or winch if it's dead) the load on until the back of the car drops to level. so you'll know when it's right. Too little noseweight and it'll start to snake at speed, particularly when going downhill. Not making any sudden movements is the secret to relaxing towing, so when changing lanes you allow the car to sort of drift across the lanes rather than steering it across them. As well as ratchet straps around the wheels, I always put the handbrake on, whatever is on the trailer in gear or park if it's an auto. and use the winch cable as a safety line so even if everything else fails, it'll stay on the trailer.

Only if the door ajar switch is faulty and it thinks the passenger, or any, door is open as all doors must be closed for the sync to happen. It also needs the immobiliser to be off, keys won't sync if the alarm has been triggered or the immobiliser is set.

I've known this on another car, a 99 French spec diesel that lives just outside Paris that I look after for the owner. She's got 3 keys and after a set of batteries, all 3 synced no problem. A few months ago, she let the battery go flat by leaving the sidelights on. Took the battery off, charged it and when it was put back on, had to enter the EKA. That worked fine but the keys wouldn't sync, not one of them. Last time I was there I had a go and although all three were working fine, Nanocom reported that all microswitches were fine yet the keys will not sync. Mentioned it to Marty and he's known it in the past on odd occasions but has yet to find out why.

It'll have a high line BeCM then. Sunroof, headlamp wash/wipe were fitted to higher spec models and the steering wheel controls only came if you had the high line audio system (with CD changer and sub woofer), mid and low line didn't have them. Wiring for electric seats is just an additional supplementary loom between the BeCM and the seats. Without electric seats there's an unused socket on the side of the BeCM next to the transmission tunnel.

HEVAC will need to be swapped for one with the heated screen button if it never had it. If the button is there, either the HEVAC has been swapped in the past or the screen has been changed and someone got the non-heated one.

Bore on the 4.0 litre and 4.6 are the same and top hat liners is the best thing you can do with them. Makes them near bulletproof as the head gasket fire ring bears on the top of the liner rather than leaving the join between the liner and block within the combustion chamber. The only people that don't recommend it are RPi as they don't do top hats, all the reputable specialists, Turner Engineering, V8 Developments and others all do. But RPi would rather you believed their BS and spent £8k on one of their custom cast blocks (which are no better than original).

Rob had a similar problem a couple of months ago, see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/2300-switch-pack?page=1. Marty does refurbed ones (www.p38webshop.co.uk) but he is currently working in New Zealand so can't help a lot at the moment. As mentioned in Robs thread, I've got a switchpack that works fine except for the sunroof and one of the rear windows that needs to go back to Marty once he is back, so you can borrow that to see if it is the switchpack or something external. I suspect something external as it was working although it could have been damaged by whatever burnt out your door outstation.

As you managed to sign up so easily it seems like Gordon has managed to get the confirmation email system working properly again. Glad you got here but I'm Richard G on rr.net but Gilbertd everywhere else. I used to be Gilbertd there too but they banned me for life because I was poaching members there and sending them here. So I registered as Richard G, kept my head down for a while and they then made me a moderator and it seems I can post anything I like now and nobody says anything. I keep waiting for someone to get offended about something I post and report me so I'll have to warn myself.....

It sounds like you've got the same interior as I have. Mine was bought to replace a 93 Classic LSE that was quietly dissolving in front of my eyes. It was originally ordered by Greater Manchester Police and spent the first 8 years of it's life dragging dead artics off the M62. Bought for £600 with a burst rear air spring and a blown head gasket so ran on 7, but has a very strange spec, cloth manual seats, but heated, no cruise control, sunroof or trip computer but with AC, headlamp wash/wipe and front fogs and sitting on 7x16 wheels that take 235/70x16 tyres. So the useful options but none of the luxury bits. 205k on the clock when I bought it and have now over doubled that. I've bought a couple of others that have come up needing work so currently also have a 96 HSE that is badged as an Ascot which may be a very limited edition or could be that someone has just stuck an Ascot badge from a Classic on it. That comes with all the toys but while everything works on mine, the Ascot has an auto dipping door mirror that dips but doesn't return and the book on the HEVAC. Both are on LPG too (as was the LSE).

What does it have? Things like sunroof, cruise control, trip computer, headlamp wash/wipe, ect, all require a highline BeCM. Heated front screen is controlled by the HEVAC not the BeCM but the wiring is probably there, most other bits of wiring usually are. Does it have AC?

The link you embedded goes to the whole drive so there's all of the pictures there rather than the one individual picture.

Harv wrote:

I’ve not heard of people going from 4.6-4.0, but I’m pretty sure when people make a 4.6 out of their 4.0 they need to change pistons and rods.

That's if you are going to use the 4.6 crank too as it is that that dictates the increased stroke over the 4.0. So if using a 4.6 crank, you also need the matching rods but it seems you don't need the 4.6 pistons.

@Unimog, just tried to edit your post so the picture appears but it has permissions set so can't be seen by anyone but you.

If it needs remapping, or even if it doesn't, the man to speak to is Mark Adams at Tornado Systems (https://www.tornadosystems.com/product-category/rover-v8/), he is the man for mapping on these. Didn't think it would be possible to use the 4.0 litre rods but without a pair of pistons sitting side by side it isn't really possible to tell.

It's the opposite to the engine in a Corvette C2 that a mate's son imported from the States. He was told the engine, a 350cu small block, had recently been rebuilt but it didn't sound right and was idling on 7. A compression check showed that all cylinders seemed a bit low and one was very low. Turned out one had a broken valve spring so the heads were pulled off to sort that. Mate had the block on an engine stand and was turning the engine over to get it to TDC and found that none of the pistons reached the top. No idea what combination of crank, rods and pistons had been fitted but they definitely weren't the correct ones.

4.0 litre con rods are longer than 4.6 (155mm centre to centre rather than 149mm) so with the longer stroke, unless the pistons are a lot shorter, then they will hit the heads.

Welcome to the pub, must be your round? If it's got top hats the blown head gasket will be down to the bolts being either cheapo stretch bolts that stretch too much, or a mix of old and new. They do put up a fight getting them off, ARP studs are a much better way to go, not cheap but worth every penny. Top hats and studs mean you won't have any head gasket problems for the foreseeable future (mine has done 131,000 since being top hatted and put together with studs). Wasn't aware that 4.0 litre and 4.6 pistons were interchangeable, but I know when mine was rebuilt I was told by V8 Developments that 4.0 pistons are difficult to get hold of and a lot more expensive that 4.6 ones.

Sounds like you've got one much like most of the others, well looked after initially then neglected and/or abused after that when they got cheap. Setting the rocker preload is fairly simple, see http://www.v8developments.co.uk/technical/valve_train/index.shtml.

If you switch the ignition on, plug the Nano in, get it to the correct page then start the engine, you'll be able to look at the fuelling. You should be able to see whether it is in open or closed loop and what the outputs from the lambda sensors are. Not sure how it works with a Thor, but on a GEMS it shows OPEN or CL, lambda sensor voltage and short term trims.

I think one point that seems to being missed is that these days car manufacturers treat cars as white goods with a design life of 10 years. So disposing of the batteries is only one part of it, it's also the manufacture of the new batteries for the new cars. Some research done a few years ago, when the Carbon footprint thing first started being looked at it was found that the car with the lowest end to end carbon footprint was the Rolls Royce Silver Shadow. Yes, it uses a lot to build but was built so well that it lasted such a long time and when it reached the end of it's life, virtually all of it was recycled or reused.

So they should be thanking us for keeping our cars going for 20+ years......

The CD changer is just a standard CD changer. Ealier cars with the Clarion head unit need the matching Clarion CD changer, later ones with the Alpine head unit, need an Alpine one. It doesn't have to be the genuine Land Rover one, as long as it is the correct make.

If you have the Clarion, adding a line in is dead easy so instead of playing CDs you can stream audio from a phone, tablet or MP3 player (see http://www.stockholmviews.com/p38/index.html#clarion) or go one step further and add Bluetooth too. Not so easy with the Alpine but the Grom BT3 works well too (https://www.gromaudio.co.uk/products/bluetooth-hands-free-and-a2dp-car-kits/bmw-mini-rover-bluetooth-integration-kit-678.html).

Only on Victron Energy & Sterling Power items unfortunately. The Hankook MF31-1000 is currently out of stock too......