The motor moves less than 360 degrees as it has stops at each end of the travel and switches to tell the ECU what position it is in. As it is on a worm drive you can't turn the output other than by rotating the motor. So no matter what position it was in when taken off, it will stay there and it is the ratio change rod that has to be moved to put the box into the same position. Not sure what the spacer does (item 19) but the manual is very specific in saying to make sure you put it back so that could cause things to get out of alignment if it was missed.

If you are going to be leaving it for a few days, pull the relay and leave it out. If it drops, it's a leak. With the timer relay back in, if it didn't drop with it out it might be a height sensor, but if it was and one corner was being reported as low, it will drop the other 3 to match so you'd find 3 corners had dropped but one hadn't.

I've recently fitted a set of these https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rshop/tyre/Kleber/Citilander/255-65-R16-113H-XL/R-279885 to mine, admittedly in the 235/70 x 16 size that my 7J wheels need and have no complaints and they are an All-Season tyre rather than a summer tyre that the Michelins are. Kleber are actually the budget brand for Michelin anyway. I've had Goodyear Wranglers in the past and they are pretty dire in the wet or anything other than smooth, dry roads. I then went to the Vredestein Quadrac but they are no longer available in my size so went for the Klebers instead.

That's usually a side affect of taking the timer relay out and putting a standard 4 pin one in. I suspect if you swap them back it'll sort itself out. If you've got no leaks and don't park on very uneven ground, it shouldn't adjust when the timer kicks in anyway.

I bought a P38 for that exact purpose, towing car transporter trailers, and there's all sorts of variables that make a difference. Twin axle trailers are worse for it than single axle too. Empty they can be uncomfortable and that varies with the make and model of trailer, Indespension ones are horrible to tow when empty but locking the EAS at motorway height helps (even though the owners manual says to lock into standard height). Trailer tyre pressures make a difference and so do the state of the wheel bearings. Snaking is usually caused by too little noseweight, shifting the load when loaded or dumping your spare wheel on the A frame can help with that. I've found that the best ones to tow are Bryan James trailers, as said, Indespension are horrible with Ifor Williams somewhere in between. If it has got progressively worse, I'd say a bit of maintenance on the trailer might be a good idea. I did own a Bryan James tilting transporter until it got stolen so since then have hired one whenever I need it. The hire place I use regularly replace their hire fleet so I usually get a fairly new trailer with little slop in anything so do tow much better.

Prices in Belgium have gone up since then but still much cheaper than here. To get to my partner's parent's in Latvia involves stopping to fill up 10 times (1520 miles) and costs under £250 in fuel. France is expensive (so I don't fill up there), Belgium and Germany is cheap and once into Poland, Lithuania and Latvia I'm looking at no more than £20 a fill. With more than one person in the car it's cheaper than flying.

Yes, works fine unless you don't keep the thread well greased. OK for lowering as gravity helps but hard work lifting. With the TC you need to make up something that will keep it at the correct angle before you lower it so you can keep it at that angle when you come to put it back. Does this mean you've found the problem with your rebuilt TC?

Mine takes 65 litres to fill from empty (you know when it was completely empty when you hear the pipe between the filler and tank fill as soon as you put the filling nozzle on) and I usually expect to get anything between 180 running around town and 220 miles on a run. Towing can make a difference depending on what I've got hooked up behind. It doesn't seem to be the weight that affects it, more the wind resistance. Towing a low sports car on a car transporter trailer has very little affect on range, towing a tall box trailer really hammers it even though the car transporter could weigh up to 2.5 tonnes and the box trailer could be empty.

My personal best, which I have never been able to beat since was driving from Germany, through Holland and into Belgium. Wasn't towing but the traffic was heavy so travelling at around 50-55 mph. Expected to run out at any moment when I got up to 220 miles and was still 18 miles from the next filling station but pulled onto the forecourt with 238 miles showing on the trip. Was absolutely astounded that the pump shut off at this:

238 miles and still had 10 litres left in the tank!! 19.5 mpg but at Belgian LPG prices that works out at well over 70 mpg. Thought the pump must have cut off early and I hadn't got a full fill but the next tankful lasted for as long as I would have expected. I've had other occasions when I've stopped to fill as I must be getting low and it has taken less than I expected but this was the one that I actually took notes of. I took the photo more to show by how much we get ripped off on fuel prices here.

A few people have made them from wood and they've worked fine, 30mm diameter is more important so they are a snug fit into the bumpstops and don't fall out between putting them in place and lowering the jacks. I made mine from Nylon but cutting that was fun. Started with a hacksaw but it was hard work so tried a cutting disc in an angle grinder which melted it's way through rather than cutting.....

Try https://rangerovers.pub/downloads/rave.zip or I have an iso image of the full P38/L322/Defender CD on my Google Drive here https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzxqPPypF5J5b1ZlU3RpMmVwanc/view?usp=sharing&resourcekey=0-vHS47g5cRLxx8_RYv4IQ0g

There's adjustment on the loop attached to the top tailgate but I don't think there's any adjustment on the latch part. I replaced my latch but many years ago and don't remember.

Ignition on but engine not running (as long as you've got a decent battery).

That's a very neat installation on the dash but where have you relocated the interior temp sensor to? Or is that why the book is showing on the HEVAC?

EAS would probably have lost all pressure in the reservoir while it's not been used so would have to fill it from scratch which can take up to 10 minutes (should take 7-8 max but a little bit longer is acceptable). The Gearbox Fault on the dash was likely from the battery voltage dropping while cranking. If the gearbox ECU sees less than 10V at any time it will flag it as a fault.

Pics aren't showing for me and if I try to connect to the links you've embedded, the pics aren't there so I can't even edit the posts for you.

Fill the cooling system as much as you can with the bleed hose from the top of the rad disconnected. Squeeze the top hose, then put your finger over the hole on the top of the rad and release the top hose. Finger off and squeeze again. What you will be doing is forcing the air out the bleed hose when you squeeze the hose and drawing coolant in from the reservoir when you release it. Once coolant starts to come out of the bleed nipple put the small hose back on then carry on squeezing the hose but this time blocking the hole inside the reservoir filler neck where the coolant squirts out. If you keep doing that until you can no longer hear the coolant sloshing around inside the engine, you've got rid of all the air so you should be safe to fire it up without risk of overheating it.

Fuel system will prime itself within a couple of seconds of turning the ignition on, so pause before starting to crank.

Disconnecting the EAS pump will at worst bring up EAS Fault on the dash, probably better to pull Fuse 24 so the EAS ECU isn't powered and it won't go into fault mode.

Gearbox Fault coming up on the dash and no gear indicator means it's gone into limp home mode. That isn't the cause but a symptom.

The problem appears to be that it is angled outwards and if I installed it in the locations I'm thinking of, it would be pointing straight down. I don't want it visible. Where it is at the moment it is behind the towball between the trailer socket and LPG filler so isn't noticed. It works fine for lining up with a trailer hitch, it's just very difficult to judge distances so I'll either stop a few inches short or hit the hitch against the bumper.

That looks virtually identical to my Garmin camera except mine is wireless. If that is at the correct angle it answers my thinking on options 1 and 2, it will be pointing downwards too much.

Just looked at mine and while it sounds good, it doesn't look like it could see the towball so not an option for me. Had the numberplate light surround out and that doesn't seem to be an option either. If I mounted the camera at the back so it doesn't get in the way of my fingers when I open the tailgate, the wide angle lens on the camera will see both sides of the opening making it a kind of widescreen image with very little rearward visibility. Thought about mounting it to one side in the bit of plastic between the hand hold and one of the numberplate lights but there's a bit of steel between inner and outer skins that would get in the way. Options seem to be partially filling the hand hold so the camera has a better field of view but is unlikely to be adjustable so the angle it points down at will be fixed, cutting a hole in the steel to one side of the number plate light panel so it is offset to one side but looking downwards (again, adjustment might not be easy and I don't like the idea of cutting a hole only to find it isn't ideal for one reason or another), mounting it above the numberplate as per the surround that Brian linked to (but it's ugly) or living with it where it is.