That's because you don't have the extra button marked 'Moderate' showing like we do.......
Been out for a few hours, came back and saw we'd been hit by a spammer who had somehow got through the protection. Started deleting the spam posts only to see the number of them was going up not down. Looked at the spammers profile to see that he had posted 71 posts which rose to 76 while I was looking at it. By the time I'd clicked the Ban Member button, he was up to 78! At 3 mouse clicks to delete spam, it's normally fairly simple but when there's 78 to get rid of......
According to here http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234/88880/89292/7043/89377 it looks to be AMR2835. Don't recall ever seeing a command in the Nanocom list for electric seats so I suspect as long as you have the seat outstations to go with the seats, they should be plug and play.
Blimey, that chain looks to have more slack in it than mine did! Don't forget to put the magnet back into its little slot. I sat there looking at it for a couple of minutes thinking, where the hell did that drop out of?????
A US quart is 0.95 litres and the whole system holds 6.6 litres (7 US quarts) from dry or 5.8 litres (6 quarts) after a drain and refill. Difference between low and high on the dipstick is 1 litre so you can work out that if it isn't reaching the oil level, you a couple of litres short. The fact that it was running without sounding like a bag of nails with the oil light on permanently, means you probably already had 2 or 3 litres in there. The first 2 you put in would have been enough to get it up to the minimum mark anyway without the additional 4!!
Now you need to work out who stole your oil......
I paid £550 for the 4.6 complete with all ancillaries, including engine bay wiring loom so it was a simple drop in and connect up replacement job, so I would expect a diesel to come in a similar state.
I bought an excellent 4.6 V8 from them a couple of years ago and have bought a few other bits and pieces. If Dave at East Coast says its good, it really is. For an engine he'll strap it to a pallet and get it couriered to you.
Just waved goodbye to the Vogue (this one https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1620-what-have-you-done-to-your-range-rover-today?page=41#pid33881). Put it on the Car & Classic auction thinking it it should make around £4k so they suggested putting a reserve of £4.6k so there would be 4 grand after their fees. It didn't make the reserve but got bid up to £3,900 so was offered to the highest bidder but he had been bidding on two cars and had won the other so wasn't interested so the second highest at £3,800 agreed to buy for that. Not a bad return after what we had spent on it and the buyer was very impressed with it in the flesh.
Interestingly there was a Japanese import on there a few weeks ago that went up to £5,900 but didn't make the reserve but I really don't understand the appeal of Jap imports. You've got a stereo that won't work here, a speedo and odometer in kms, odd trim levels and most people seem to think, no rust. But a P38 doesn't usually rust anyway so that isn't really relevant.
Either this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272214722398 or this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262391772282 depending on whether GEMS or Thor. Not sure about shipping though so it might be worth contacting them directly, https://www.maltingsoffroad.co.uk/
The system they supply is Allmakes and seems to be pretty good although the cats are smaller than original if that is of any relevance where you are.
On a Thor there's the 4 that go between the lower part of the bellhousing and cast sump, so they are likely to be the 4 x 34mm and there's two long ones at the mid point on the bellhousing to bottom of the engine block, so suspect they are the 82mm ones. Then there's two at the top and a further two, or possibly three (can't remember without counting them) more on each side meaning you need 6 or 8 in total of those which I would assume are the 46mm ones. So it looks like you are just short of one or more x 46mm.
Does the compressor clutch engage? If not, then that is why it doesn't compress. Causes can be a dodgy connection in the big white multiway connector behind the RH kick panel or at the pressure switch. If it is engaging but not compressing then it is indeed knackered.
It will have had the DSP amp which probably died so someone has replaced it with one from a Discovery2. That works but only on the front speakers.
The bits stuck to the floor that the plugs slot into appear to be polythene or similar. They aren't rubbery but aren't rigid like ABS and have that sort of waxy appearance. Or at least the ones stuck to my floor are and I've got the OE LR rubber mats.
Not done any lost wax but have done quite a bit of fibre glass moulding. Considered making some of the disc brake covers in fibreglass as they seem to rust away quite nicely and cost stupid money to replace. Only problem is finding a decent one to take a mould from.
You could have left it and told us what you found or how you fixed it. Could have been useful for anyone that has the same problem in the future.
Maybe because they didn't have as much cable in 1996? It's the length of the lead between the fusebox and the battery that makes the difference and it was only half an inch or so shorter, just not quite long enough to reach the post.
Should have ordered as soon as it was shown as in stock. Whenever they get stock they sell out pretty quickly (probably to P38 owners...).
Is it the door latch or is it coming from the speakers? If the battery on the Ascot is flat, which used to be a regular occurrence until I treated it to a nice new Hankook MF31-1000, when I put it on the charge one of the rear door locks would constantly try to lock every second or so until the battery voltage rose to above 10 V. That sounds more like mains hum which makes me wonder if a door amp is permanently powered.
The pictures are hosted on Marty's own server and it appears to have fallen over. As he is currently on the opposite side of the world, I doubt he can kick it back into life at the moment.
Clips look to be close enough to fit, even if you have to attack then with a pair of long nose pliers to adjust them. The tape is cloth so I would think cloth insulating tape, the sort of stuff that used to be used before PVC and is still used in some circumstances would do it, see https://www.amazon.co.uk/fabric-electrical-tape/s?k=fabric+electrical+tape
I've got the mats and the bits on the floor but never seen the fasteners that go on the top. A quick Google doesn't seem to show anything similar either.