Try https://rangerovers.pub/downloads/rave.zip or I have an iso image of the full P38/L322/Defender CD on my Google Drive here https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzxqPPypF5J5b1ZlU3RpMmVwanc/view?usp=sharing&resourcekey=0-vHS47g5cRLxx8_RYv4IQ0g
There's adjustment on the loop attached to the top tailgate but I don't think there's any adjustment on the latch part. I replaced my latch but many years ago and don't remember.
Ignition on but engine not running (as long as you've got a decent battery).
That's a very neat installation on the dash but where have you relocated the interior temp sensor to? Or is that why the book is showing on the HEVAC?
EAS would probably have lost all pressure in the reservoir while it's not been used so would have to fill it from scratch which can take up to 10 minutes (should take 7-8 max but a little bit longer is acceptable). The Gearbox Fault on the dash was likely from the battery voltage dropping while cranking. If the gearbox ECU sees less than 10V at any time it will flag it as a fault.
Pics aren't showing for me and if I try to connect to the links you've embedded, the pics aren't there so I can't even edit the posts for you.
Fill the cooling system as much as you can with the bleed hose from the top of the rad disconnected. Squeeze the top hose, then put your finger over the hole on the top of the rad and release the top hose. Finger off and squeeze again. What you will be doing is forcing the air out the bleed hose when you squeeze the hose and drawing coolant in from the reservoir when you release it. Once coolant starts to come out of the bleed nipple put the small hose back on then carry on squeezing the hose but this time blocking the hole inside the reservoir filler neck where the coolant squirts out. If you keep doing that until you can no longer hear the coolant sloshing around inside the engine, you've got rid of all the air so you should be safe to fire it up without risk of overheating it.
Fuel system will prime itself within a couple of seconds of turning the ignition on, so pause before starting to crank.
Disconnecting the EAS pump will at worst bring up EAS Fault on the dash, probably better to pull Fuse 24 so the EAS ECU isn't powered and it won't go into fault mode.
Gearbox Fault coming up on the dash and no gear indicator means it's gone into limp home mode. That isn't the cause but a symptom.
The problem appears to be that it is angled outwards and if I installed it in the locations I'm thinking of, it would be pointing straight down. I don't want it visible. Where it is at the moment it is behind the towball between the trailer socket and LPG filler so isn't noticed. It works fine for lining up with a trailer hitch, it's just very difficult to judge distances so I'll either stop a few inches short or hit the hitch against the bumper.
That looks virtually identical to my Garmin camera except mine is wireless. If that is at the correct angle it answers my thinking on options 1 and 2, it will be pointing downwards too much.
Just looked at mine and while it sounds good, it doesn't look like it could see the towball so not an option for me. Had the numberplate light surround out and that doesn't seem to be an option either. If I mounted the camera at the back so it doesn't get in the way of my fingers when I open the tailgate, the wide angle lens on the camera will see both sides of the opening making it a kind of widescreen image with very little rearward visibility. Thought about mounting it to one side in the bit of plastic between the hand hold and one of the numberplate lights but there's a bit of steel between inner and outer skins that would get in the way. Options seem to be partially filling the hand hold so the camera has a better field of view but is unlikely to be adjustable so the angle it points down at will be fixed, cutting a hole in the steel to one side of the number plate light panel so it is offset to one side but looking downwards (again, adjustment might not be easy and I don't like the idea of cutting a hole only to find it isn't ideal for one reason or another), mounting it above the numberplate as per the surround that Brian linked to (but it's ugly) or living with it where it is.
The strip on the front edge of the dash is rubber and is just a flexible flap to fill in the gap. When I had my screen changed the guy used a cheesewire on a pretty clever looking pulley type thing that was stuck to the outside of the windscreen on big suckers. Didn't touch the strip at all.
Odd, don't quite understand this leaving it until completed, I always fire up at the first available opportunity. Usually just to check everything is OK before I connect up the downpipes to the exhaust manifolds (because they make a lovely noise with no downpipes......).
https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1877-how-to-topic
A bit of a faff but easy once you get the hang of it.
Agreed, it's an interesting option, but can it see the towball?
I wouldn't say all of them but a lot of the older diesels seem to be bought by cheapskates because of the perceived lower running costs. Consequently they don't have anything spent on anything else either.
+1 on a new battery. If it stays the same, then try speaking to Dave Ashcroft at Ashcroft Transmissions if nobody else has any ideas.
Maybe. ETM shows 3 screened wires between the nav computer and display unit which suggests to me that it is sending RGB (especially as they are coloured Red, Green and Blue) rather than composite video that you normally get from a revering camera. Not sure how you'd make it switch either....
My Garmin camera is very small so drilling a hole in the hand grip part of the numberplate light panel and mounting it behind with it peeping through a hole might be possible. Not sure how I could attach it though.
Don't appear to be any seals http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234/90127/90128/7140 but what do I know.....
I don't suppose it matters. Just had a look at both mine and neither have one.
There should only be one in the RH (as looking from the drivers seat) rocker cover, not in the other one. I broke mine about 3 years ago and keep forgetting to add one to the order whenever I've ordered bits so haven't had one for quite some time. Don't think it makes much difference in all honesty.
It's here, http://new.lrcat.com/ and is an online version of the system that the main dealers use. Admittedly it's hosted in Russia, hence some descriptions in Cyrillic as well as English. There's also the official JLR one at https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/parts/index/brand/key/land-rover but the pictures and descriptions aren't as good.