Just to be sure, pull a spark plug and check for a spark (with ignition in pos 2 and jumpering the starter relay).

Immobilised? Or just won't start?

Edited it so your pictures show. Those colours appear to be on the actual mirror itself and not the wiring that goes to it. Although it does appear to have too many wires. The ETM shows 5 wires in a black connector that plugs into the top of the mirror base where it is fixed to the windscreen.

Both part numbers seem to be a blank key and at around £14, seem expensive. I took my key into my local Timsons who identified the blank as a BMW key which they didn't keep in stock but ordered a couple and cut me a key from mine for a tenner.

But the question is, have you found the OBD socket yet?

Workshop manual, overhaul manual and electrical manual are 3 separate volumes if you buy the paper versions but all are included in RAVE. I find it far easier to navigate than a 500 odd page book too.

White/Pink has ignition switched power while Black is ground. Power comes from F6 which is fused at 10A. I've run power for a dashcam from the back of the fag lighter socket, it goes across under the steering column, up the A pillar between the plastic trim and door rubber and can then be tucked up behind the headlining without having to remove anything other than the knee panel.

That's the GEMS version, both his cars are Thor and the wiring looms (and most of the wiring) are completely different. I've got the full UK CD of RAVE saved as an iso image file on my Google Drive. That is an electronic version of the workshop manual, overhaul manuals, electrical troubleshooting manual and owners handbooks covering the P38, L322 and Defender. Download it from https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzxqPPypF5J5b1ZlU3RpMmVwanc/view?usp=sharing.

As an iso image file it needs to be burned to a CD and will then run directly from that by clicking the RAVE.exe file. I've always copied the full CD to hard drive and then run it from there it's much faster.

?? There's a full electrical troubleshooting manual in RAVE, the workshop manual.

But you'd make the workshop dirty!! I've been there, as have you, you can eat your dinner off the floor......

I suspect they are over 226g/km as up until 23 March 2006 band K was the highest they went up to so it included everything with a CO2 figure of over 201g/km but after that date band K cuts' off at 225g/km and the next band applies. Sometimes it throws up some interesting ones. My missus has a 2007 Mercedes SLK 280 (3.0 litre V6) and that comes out at 227 g/km so costs her £585 a year (band L, 226-255g/km) but following a remap and a couple of other minor tweaks for the 2008MY version, the CO2 figure drops to 224g/km which brings it into the next band down (band K, 201-225g/km) so the road tax drops to £340 a year. Equally, if her car was a year older it would fall into band K even though it has a figure of 227g/km.

But, I shouldn't need to tell you this (and there shouldn't need to be any discussion on Subaru forums either), it's all explained perfectly clearly here https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-tax-rate-tables/rates-for-cars-registered-on-or-after-1-march-2001. Then again, many Subaru owners don't even know which why round a baseball cap should be worn......

and Brian beat me to it.

No, it's always been 2001. The reason why an import, even a new one, is on the flat rate is because the V5 doesn't show a CO2 figure as it isn't checked at the IVA test. It can work out quite a bit cheaper on some cars. I registered an imported Bentley Continental GT Speed that had to go through the IVA process so no CO2 figure on the V5 meant the flat rate of £280 a year, compared with £600 a year if it had been on the sliding scale. Not so sure about ULEZ though. Before ULEZ there was the T Charge and imports didn't have to pay it as the CO2 details weren't known but I understand under ULEZ no CO figure means they charge it no matter what the emissions are (or they'd be losing out on income).

It also catches people out on cars that were available at the changeover time. A good example is the Honda HR-V which was built between 98 and 06. An early one pays the £280 flat rate (1.6 VTech engine) but a later one costs £340 as the CO2 figure is 205g/km.

It's 2001 as the cut off. Anything first registered before 1 March 2001 is on the flat rate system, that is £170 a year if under 1549cc or £280 if over. After that it is the sliding scale depending on CO emissions so you'd need something with less than 150g/km for it to be cheaper than a smaller engined car on the flat rate.

As it stands at the moment, anything over 40 years old doesn't need an MoT but you do have to declare it as roadworthy (and original) and if you get a pull from plod who find it isn't you'll still get nicked for it. The tax category is changed on the V5 to Historic and the tax is free, but you still have to tax it, just the fee is £0.00 so they know it is on the road, you don't just ignore it. The 40 year rolling age means that currently it is anything from 1981 or earlier, changing it to 30 years would mean there would be a lot of old dogs that should have been scrapped still being used.

I've only ever had a couple of problems, one was sorted out straight away but I lost out on the other. Both came from breakers that regularly advertise stuff so there's one I will use again and recommend and one I won't touch with a bargepole. I bought a starter motor and tested it before fitting it only to find it didn't work. Contacted the seller (EoC) and they immediately sent me another, didn't even ask for the first one back. Second time a breaker was advertising a pair of front seats and the photos showed the exact same cloth seats as mine. The grey cloth seats up to 97 were a sort of velour material, similar to what is often called the Teddy Bear seats when fitted into a Classic, but mine, being a 98 has a darker, courser, more hardwearing cloth. The photos clearly showed the later ones and all I really wanted was the seat bases to swap into mine as my drivers seat had suffered from having someone sitting on it for hundreds of thousand miles. They were asking a ridiculous amount of money for carriage so I said I didn't mind paying full price for them but only needed the bases and as they would be smaller and lighter, that should reduce the carriage. They agreed and sent them only for me to open them up and find they were the earlier ones. I sent them photos of what they'd sent to compare with the photos on the listing and their attitude was, "you wanted the bases from a pair of cloth seats and that's what we sent so tough". They even admitted they'd got more than one set and had used the same photo in each listing but still refused to supply me with the ones they'd taken a photo of rather than ones that didn't match mine. I gave up in the end and just won't use them again

Red rear (and white front) indicators are legal for anything pre-1961 so as long as they work, they should still pass them. I took a 1958 Studebaker in for test that had been standing for about 20 years and the valves on two cylinders were stuck open but as it was a sidevalve engine it still ran on the other 4. It still passed as on something that old there's no emissions test, no seatbelt check, etc. But it was solid, the brakes worked (as well as they ever had), the lights worked, no slop in the steering and that was about as far as the test went.

I remember being told years ago that you should fill an engine with the cheapest, lowest quality oil you could get for the initial running in period, then drain it and fill with decent stuff. The logic being that during running in, the parts surfaces are supposed to wear to each other so you don't want anything that will lubricate too well or the parts won't bed in properly.

Could be anything, it isn't original so it's something that someone thought would be a good idea.

See my edited post above.......

Oops, Simon posted that it could have been a modified interface cable for an LPG system but he posted it twice so I deleted the duplicate. But it looks like he also deleted the duplicate at the same time so both posts disappeared. Sorry Simon, however, that would make sense if he didn't have a diesel......

That serial port is something that someone has added, it isn't original. As David says, OBD port is on the passenger side, close in to the centre console and a long way forward so almost at the bulkhead.