The original stereo outputs a low level signal which is then amplified by the door amps but if using an aftermarket head unit with standard DIN sockets, that will output a higher level to drive speakers directly so the door amps aren't required. Or, you can use that interface which attenuates the signal from the head unit and matches the impedance so it can drive the amps. Simply bypassing them means that the head unit is supplying speaker level outputs at the correct impedance without the need to modify the signal to feed the amps. The advantage with the door amps is that they incorporate crossovers so each channel comes into the amp at full frequency range but the output of the amp is split between low frequencies and mid/high. I didn't bother originally and with the JBL speakers it sounded fine. In fact a mate who spent most of his working life as a sound engineer thought it sounded great. Then I added a couple of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264933727526 and he agreed it sounded even better.

Two of us lifted a short block into the boot of a car and I would estimate that to be around 70kg. That transfer case alone weighs 75kg and the gearbox is heavier than that. I would think for the whole lot you are going to looking at over 350kg at the very least.

It looks like the nut is correct and the stud looks like it might be except https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/252513-stud.html?code=L3G03015 says it is for earlier engines. This site shows it to be 5/16 UNC x 1" 3/8". But, one of the differences between the earlier engines and the Thor is that most of the threads changed from Imperial to Metric, so the exhaust manifold bolts on a GEMS, and anything earlier, are 5/16 UNC but on a Thor they are M8.

The photos are all still here on this thread. If you mean the bit of metal you remove from the door latch (to make getting it in and out easier) it's the bit that sticks out and performs no useful function whatsoever.

Not only of the receiver in the P38, desense can, and will, affect any radio receiver. The filter stops received random transmissions from being passed through the receiver to the BeCM, it doesn't affect what the receiver receives, just what it does which anything it does receive.

I'm not a great fan of the multimedia units as no matter how well they are done I think they look out of place in a P38 (and some installs just don't fit properly and look like a bodge). You also lose the very useful oddments bin. The other thing is that sooner or later they will become out of date. You only have to look at the systems fitted in some production cars that are no longer upgradable. I've got an old Android tablet that won't run a lot of modern apps as the version of Android it is running is too old so it may be a while yet but sooner or later it'll be out of date. If you want to retain the original stereo, the Pure Highway range would be the way to go. If you don't mind changing the head unit, then something like this https://www.kenwood-electronics.co.uk/car/rec/dab/KDC-BT950DAB/. I've got a previous version giving me DAB and FM/AM radio, CD, USB, line in and handsfree phone with an external mic that I've got at the top of the A pillar trim. The thing I like about it is that the display colour is adjustable so I can set it to the same shade of green as the HEVAC so it doesn't look out of place. You'll also need a couple of these blanks to fill in the space at the sides

If you've got the system with door amps you can bypass them (and add crossovers instead if you want the best quality sound) and use the speaker level outputs on the headunit. Your loudspeakers will almost certainly be well past their best these days and a straight swap which improves the sound quality no end, is the JBL Stage 600CE speakers which can easily be fitted in place of the original ones. For satnav I use a Garmin stuck on the windscreen in the centre so easy to glance down to look at it and the model I've got comes with lifetime map updates and can be linked to a remote wireless reversing camera which I've mounted above the towbar between the two electrical sockets. I use it mainly so I can hitch a trailer up on my own but it is also useful for stopping me putting a neat 50mm diameter hole in someone else's number plate when reversing into a supermarket car park space.

Just realised, the filter doesn't stop desense as I've got one on my car (admittedly a prototype still)...... Agreed, it will stop anything that the receiver will respond to though.

Sloth wrote:

Sounds like another issue our filters would solve :) when more components turn up to build a new batch at least...

No, I don't think it would as the receiver isn't responding to the signals, they are just blocking it from receiving anything on the correct frequency.

The receiver needs to be receiving a signal on the correct frequency to keep the BeCM awake so it won't if it is simply being desensed as it isn't receiving anything. The Gen 3 receiver or the Marty/Sloth filter will prevent it being kept awake if the signal is on the correct frequency.

First of all you need someone with diagnostics who can read the faults to see why the book is showing. It could be the blend motors, in which case you won't be able to change temperature on one side or another or change where the air is blowing, it could be one of the blowers not working, it could be that you have insufficient refrigerant in the system, it could be one of the temperature sensors failed, etc. You will get the book come up if the HEVAC detects a fault when it is first powered up and does it's self check. The Audi part that people have fitted is the actual heater matrix but if you matrix had failed you wouldn't get the book symbol, you'd get a drivers footwell full of coolant.

You can do a few checks yourself. Try altering the temperature from Hi to Lo on both sides, if one doesn't change, then you have a faulty blend motor there. Try changing the airflow from feet to screen and see if it changes, if it doesn't there's another faulty blend motor. Take the pollen filter covers off and have a look down the holes to make sure both blowers are working, if not, you've either a faulty blower or your underbonnet fusebox is on it's last legs and the socket for relay 6 or 7 is burning up.

Next time you are there try putting the fob against the receiver aerial etched into the RH rear side window. You'll probably find it works perfectly then. You'll have the 315MHz system on your car so it's fairly unlikely there is anything else on the same, or a nearby, frequency, but there may a a powerful radio transmitter on a completely different frequency. This will desensitise the receiver. Think of it like you try to hear a quiet noise but someone is digging the road up nearby. Your ears will be so full of the other noise they won't hear what you are trying to hear. It's just the same when I park outside my daughter's house. There's a mobile phone mast about 150m away and the fob needs to be within 4 or 5 feet of the receive aerial yet at home I can lock it and unlock it from a good 20 feet away.

CDMA? I suggest you tell him we're 21 years into the twenty first century, not still in the 1990's. Even GSM is old tech now, if your phone is capable of 4, or even 5G, it'll be LTE but with the capability of falling back to GSM if all here is available in the area is 2G. I suspect it is going to be down to the frequency band used by the particular networks having a mathematical relationship with the 315MHz remote locking receivers in the cars. So if they are using frequencies around 940-950MHz, that will be three times the receive frequency so the receiver will be responding to strong local signals from the phone. Any receiver will also respond to signals at multiples (or divisions) of the wanted frequency (odd multiples are more susceptible than even too) and will also respond to images, signals that are twice the receiver intermediate frequency above or below (depending on whether the receiver uses mix up or mix down) the wanted frequency. So when you have your marine radio on Ch 16 (156.8 MHz) and your radio uses an IF frequency of 10.7 MHz, you will almost certainly receive a strong local signal being transmitted on 167.5 MHz (156.8+10.7) but as that band would be used inland and not at sea, it's unlikely to ever be a problem.

Can't explain the problems caused to the EAS, although the ECU will have a microprocessor in it which will have a clock frequency so again there may well be a mathematical relationship. The EAS ECU will have had to be included in the EMC (Electro Magnetic Compatibility) tests when the car was originally type approved but they will be done at a specific field strength so if the phone is very close, and running maximum output when in a poor signal area, it could well exceed the level it has been approved at.

What threw me was this bit, "I jumped the starter fine yesterday but the car wouldn't start at all. All that was happening was a click." which said to me that jumping the relay made the starter turn the engine over but the car wouldn't start but that didn't tally with the only getting a click so I wasn't sure what was actually happening either. Or the word fine was a typo.....

Now that's interesting. Can't think of a reason why but the one in France that won't sync now has always had mine parked next to it when I've tried it. In the past when it would sync, mine was parked round the corner......

I've bought 5 over the years for mine and other people's cars and they have always turned up the next day. Can't knock them for service.

Mine is ex-GMP motorway patrol so had the full set.

I've still got an auxiliary fusebox and split charge relay under the bonnet, bolted to the NS suspension turret. The cables for the aux battery located in the RHS of the boot space are still there too although the one from the battery to the split charge relay has now been re-purposed as a direct feed from the alternator to the battery (rather than via the starter motor as is the way it is done on a GEMS). When I dropped the headlining I also found 5 spurious Panorama aerial bases that had been chopped off at roof level and miles of cabling that ran from the RH A pillar down to the RHS of the bot area. There was an additional switch and some blocking diodes connected into the tailgate release circuit. This, I assume, allowed the car to be locked with the tailgate open. The Nanocom documentation says that the police setting should only be used if wiring mods have been carried out but doesn't go into any further detail. I suspect it is so it doesn't get confused and show blown bulb warnings when lights are used in a different way to how they were originally intended.

Where the control panel was would probably depend on what force ordered/installed it. Police spec were supplied with no stereo so there was a convenient hole there and I've got a couple of holes in the dash panel between the centre vents and instrument panel (above the headlight switch). There's a pushbutton fitted into the blank where the sunroof switch would be if it had a sunroof and signs that something has been glued to the interior light panel too. External shots are the only pictures I have of it in it's original guise, no interior shots unfortunately.

and they can just suddenly stop with no warning. One reason I carry a spare when I set off on one of my cross-Europe trips. Everything can be perfect but as you can't push or tow start an auto, with a dead starter you aren't going anywhere.

Was it worse when pulling and virtually disappeared when on the over run? That's usually a leaking head to manifold gasket and it will also change with temperature (might only be there when cold or might only be there when hot). Sounds just like a tappet though.

That sounds about right for an engine that hasn't had a blown gasket. My heads have been skimmed three times that I know of and the last time they took off 8 thou. When I checked the preload on mine I had to put the shims in but with only 3 thou off them you shouldn't need to. I had to buy a set that came with three different thicknesses and I found the thinnest ones put it just inside the range while the middle ones put it nicely where it needed to be. So if you do need to shim, which sounds pretty unlikely, I've got a set of shims that should do the job nicely you're welcome to if you need them.

Yes, you will need to remove the rocker shafts to refit the heads. It will also give you the opportunity to check the pre-load. Unless they have skimmed a lot of metal off the heads, it's likely they will still be in spec so the hydraulics will self adjust. If the heads have been skimmed, then you may need to adjust the clearances but that is done by putting shims under the rocker pedestals. How to check is here http://www.v8developments.co.uk/technical/valve_train/index.shtml

Yeah, I started at the top and worked my way down so saw that after I'd replied to this.