Use the Nanocom to check the O2 sensor outputs. Prins is a slave system so follows the fuelling for the petrol system. Any fault on the petrol system will also show on LPG.

Get a roll of the blue masking tape and run that along the bottom of the existing letters. Warm the existing ones with a hair dryer so they peel off, clean the remaining glue off then you can use the masking tape as a guide for fitting the new ones.

JimAHH wrote:

Just been looking at the decals on the boot as they are starting to peel off.
Anyone got any suggestions on what to use to try and restick?

Ordinary clear Bostick seems to work reasonably well.

Back to what I've been up to on the red one.
Bled the brakes, unsuccessfully. As the modulator was completely empty I think there is still air inside it. Pedal feels really hard, then with more pressure slowly goes to the floor. So that needs another attempt.....

Turned my attention to the LPG system, what a bloody mess! To start with, the toroidal tank has been put in back to front with the multivalve at the front, so under acceleration with less than half a tank of gas, the pickup will be uncovered and drawing vapour. The wiring under the bonnet has now been all ripped out and the mess made of the wiring at the engine ECU is disgusting. Wires cut, soldered using what appears to have been plumbers solder with no flux and 'insulated' with random bits of tape so before going any further I'm going to have to sort that lot out. So the "LPG converted" car has a tank and not a lot else, so effectively I'm going to be fitting a system from scratch.

There were no pollen filters in it and the passenger side pollen filter cover was in the glovebox. As the car has been standing for 3 years, both blowers were full of dead leaves so pulled them both out and emptied the blowers and ducting of leaves. Fitted a pair of pollen filters and put the covers back. Both footwells now need attacking with the vacuum cleaner again though.

Still waiting for the new brake vent switch for the cruise control so haven't put the driver's side heater duct back in yet which was what prompted me to clear the dead leaves out, but did a repair on the cruise vacuum pipe. There was a length of it from vent switch to the bulkhead at which point it stopped were it had perished. Local motor factors and a hydraulic/pneumatic specialist company didn't have anything suitable, so went for the alternative route. I've got 6mm copper tube that I use on air conditioning systems so ran a length of that from the footwell to the cruise system then used short lengths of the remaining rubber pipe at each end.

Unfortunately, rain has stopped play today so not inclined to get out there and carry on but there's still loads to do. Also need to get at mine too as the wiper linkage has started to squeak so needs a bit of lube on it before a trip to France on Wednesday.

As there is no feedback on the recirculate pots, the HEVAC has no idea if they move or not. Hence if they don't work you get no book symbol and don't really have any idea they have failed.

2 wire one is a recirculate blend motor. Swapping the motor should get it working. When you put it back together, make sure you align the arrows on the cog on the pot and the main output cog. That will set it at mid point on the travel so you just slot it on and rotate the whole thing until the screw holes line up.

As I have now discovered. Unplugged the front left sensor and still only get the one fault on the front left. So it does display correctly on the Wabco C system.

Brute force and ignorance and you should be able to pull the duct out in one piece.

You might need more than a ring spanner, the centre nut is done up to 109 lb/ft, so socket and big breaker bar is the way to do it.. Changing that rear seal isn't actually that difficult. With the drum in place put the handbrake on so it doesn't turn when you undo the nut. Let the handbrake off, remove the drum and the rear flange should just pull out. RAVE shows a gear puller being used but I've never known one need it, they usually just pull out. Lever the old seal out, push the new one in, coat it with ATF then put the flange back.

That isn't part of the gearbox, it's the transfer case output. To get to the gearbox you have to remove the transfer case, a whole new can of worms, especially as it weighs the best part of 70kg.

and when she isn't working , she's taking dogs for a walk or going to the gym......

Taking the actual glovebox lid off is interesting as there's a couple of non-captive square nuts on the hinges at the bottom which fall out and are a real pain to get back in. However, if you undo the 3 screws along the top and one each side that are visible with the glovebox open, the whole lot drops down and just hangs on the release cable. Disconnect that and it drops to the floor but when you put it back there's no need to adjust it, it stays adjusted.

More playing, this time on the newly acquired red one. I'd already mentioned the bodgery I'd found on it with the steering column being welded so it wouldn't move up and down and the fact that the ABS was giving multiple errors relating to the traction control as someone had replaced the Modulator with one from a base model with no traction control, well not any more.

Spent Tuesday giving Marty a hand to clear his workshop and rescuing any parts that might be useful before everything went in a scrap metal skip. Those parts included a steering column and the correct brake modulator so started swapping them yesterday. Figured that if I got everything free and dismantled on the steering column and then removed the brake modulator, that would let me get at the top joint on the intermediate steering shaft a lot easier, so did that. Getting at the bolts that hold the modulator in place isn't easy but they came out, released it from the brake pedal and it started to move. RAVE says to unclip the brake light switch, which I did, but it unfortunately doesn't mention the second one for the cruise control vent valve and the brake pedal came back on a spring and smashed it......

Although the brake modulator was free, getting it out is an interesting exercise as the brake pipes run in front of it, so they had to be bent to one side, the throttle cable runs in front of it so that has to be released and moved away and then it only comes out until it hits the top shock mount. After much swearing at it and wiggling it about, it came out. Left that for a while and swapped over the steering column. As well as two bolts to the bulkhead and a couple more to the pedal box, the column is held in on two long studs and it looked like it would sit on those and allow the intermediate shaft to be slid onto the splines. It isn't. As soon as I tried to align the splines it dropped off the studs so I had to wait until my assistant came back from taking the dogs for a walk, so she could sit in the car and guide it in. While waiting I lifted off the ignition coils as the monkey that had been in there before had managed to run the throttle cable under them and not over the top like it should be. Steering splines slotted in, steering column in place, so bolted it all up. Reassembled the switches and wiring on the column before calling it a day.

So today it was back out there at it. The correct brake modulator actually slotted straight in and I'm still not sure why considering the grief getting the old one out had caused me. Bolted it in place, and started connection the pipes again. As they were the original steel pipes and had been bent I had to try to bend them back to the original shape so they would line up with the holes, not an easy task and one union started going in cross threaded so I had to clean the threads up before it went in as it should. Filled it with brake fluid and now for the moment of truth. Ignition on, Nanocom booted up and read the ABS fault codes. It still had all the previous Traction Control faults showing so cleared those, cycled the ignition off and back on again and the dash beeped and said ABS Fault..... However, read the codes again the only one there now was Left Front sensor open circuit. No big deal on that then once I work out which one is actually faulty knowing that the Nanocom gets them muddled up (or does it? It does on the Wabco D system on a Thor but this is the Wabco C on a GEMS so it might get them right). I'll just unplug the front left sensor and see if it gives the same fault or if it tells me there's now two open circuit sensors.

All that is left now is to wait for the assistant to finish work and go through the brake bleeding process.

I've use the hacksaw blade method in the past and it isn't fun but I've now got an oscillating multitool (one of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-Tools-430787-Multi-Tool/dp/B0784BPP92/ref=sr_1_1) which I bought for one specific job and have found numerous other uses for it since having it. Next time I'm doing it I'll try using that.

Yeah, they do that. When you first turn the ignition on, it cycles all the blend motors from one end of the travel to the other to check the feedback. When it fails to see movement from the feedback pot, it just stops. Sods law says it stops at the full cold end of the travel in winter and full hot in summer.

Driver's side temperature blend motor is the lower one of the two on that side and hides behind the heater ducting so that needs to come out (the same way as if you are changing the heater core O rings). I always get into it via the instrument cluster hole once that is out and removing the LH instrument cluster bracket gives more room and stops you cutting your hand on the sharp edges. It is bolted to a couple of studs and you need an 8mm socket to undo those.

DO NOT run the blend motor, or even turn the ignition on with the blend motor not attached to the heater matrix. The HEVAC will do a test and it will move to the end of the travel which is further than it will move when it is attached so it will immediately bring up an error. Then you will need to open up the blend motor to reset the gears so the arrows line up. Push it onto the shaft and rotate it until the screw holes line up and it will push fully home then.

But the main question is, did you get the parking brake drum off?

Doubt it. Is the £40 shown as OEM or Shitpart?

Could be air, bleed it as per the book and see if that cures it. It should at least cure the sinking pedal.

It's got a top and bottom wishbone so the bottom one will be the one that takes most of the weight of the car so it stands to reason that one would wear first. The top one doesn't have anything like as much stress on it so isn't likely to wear anything like as quickly. But, while it is apart, you may as well replace both, at least then it isn't going to fail on the top one next year.

The Bluetooth ones would be a waste of time for most people due to the lack of range. One quotes a range of 33 feet, yeah right, in a straight line with nothing between you and the car (and if you fit it under the bonnet the range would be more like 3 feet). As for the 433 version, that would probably cause the problem you are trying to monitor.

I doubt anyone on here suffers battery drain problems these days now everyone knows what causes it and how to stop it. My Ascot will sit for at least 4 weeks, sometimes longer, and still has enough in the battery to start it.

If you get vibration when you didn't before splitting the propshaft, rotate the doughnut and hope you can get it back where it was before.