Just edited it for you. You need to leave a blank line between the end of the quote and your post.

My understanding is that on a car that has an EKA programmed, it should be left Enabled so when needed it is asked for. On one that doesn't have it programmed, such as NAS cars, it should be disabled. As I understand it, if it is programmed but Disabled when it is needed the dash doesn't tell you, so rather than getting the 'Engine immobilise, Press Remote or Enter Code' message, you simply get an 'Engine Immobilised, Press Remote' message.

If it is a Clarion (pre-99), it will have been back to Clarion at some time in the past and they always remove the code. When first switched on after the power has been disconnected it will say NO CODE on the display and then it just works.

You still have passive immobilisation enabled in the BeCM. If you unlock the car but don't start the car within 30 seconds, the immobiliser kicks in again. It needs an unlock code from the fob to reset it so there is a coil around the ignition switch that causes the fob to send an unlock code (exactly the same as you pressing the Unlock button) so it will start. If the coil fails, as they often do, it doesn't cause the fob to transmit so you get 'Engine Immobilised, Press remote of Enter Code' come up on the dash. As long as you unlock and then immediately start the car, it isn't needed. If passive immobilisation is turned off then the tie limit is removed and the fob will no longer flash as the car knows it isn't needed.

Just because EKA is disabled in the BeCM, doesn't mean it doesn't need it, just that it won't ask for it when it is needed. EKA should always be enabled but passive immobilisation should be disabled. In the menu on a Nanocom this is simply marked as Immobilisation so people disable it thinking they have disabled the immobiliser but they haven't, only passive immobilisation.

No, you can't get at it with the latch in place. It's inside, you have to take the latch out and open it up.

Interior lights are controlled by the door ajar switch which is inside the latch itself. However, it is in a block of 3 switches that are rated at IP68 so other than giving it some exercise there's not a lot you can do as you can't squirt any contact cleaner into it.

It doesn't appear to exist as a part but is it a squashy foam or more solid? I would think you will find something suitable with a wander around a DIY shop looking at insulation materials.

I carry my toolbox with just about everything in it to dismantle a P38 down to its component parts, so would be able to remove a diff if needed. I am also in need of a couple of bits for a friend who has recently bought a '98 Vogue SE. The instrument surround is in two pieces so need one of those and if you have the tool holder, ideally with the original tools (jack, wheelbrace, etc), that would be most welcome as it is missing from the car. So is the locking wheelnut key but I doubt you would have one of those, or at least not the correct pattern unless really lucky.

I've always used Mahle (OC261) from my local motor factors at around the same price as the genuine ones.

Belt it with a mallet from underneath while your tame assistant turns the key. That should be enough to jolt it free, otherwise you will need to take it off to free it.

We both got it wrong. Yes, the number I gave you is for a RH latch for a LHD car, but the one you have FQJ103220 is up to VIN XA428521, a 99 model. You need FQJ103260 which is listed as RH, RHD car from VIN XA428522 (see https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/parts/index/part/id/9.55820.56288.60756/brand/land-rover/).

If you have the DSP system and the original amp died, some people have been known to fit an amp from a Discovery instead. It works but only on the front speakers and not the rear. The P38 system only has two feeds, left and right, to the DSP amp and the front/rear fade is dealt with in the amp itself. When substituting Marty's DSP modification, it is necessary to run the rear left and right feeds from the head unit to the amp.

The 1 shows it to be a 2001 model, A shows it built at Solihull and 452327 is the individual serial number for the car. You will see parts listed as for cars after YA430702 which shows 2000 model (Y) and serial number 430702, so that is the one you want, part number FQJ103280. Model year was shown by a letter up to 2000 but then changed to numbers from 2001 onwards. When they ran out of numbers for model year, they went back to letters.

This is how the Land Rover VIN is decoded:

Geographical Region (1st Character)
S Europe

Country (2nd Character)
A United Kingdom

Manufacturer (3rd Character)
L Land Rover

Model Type (4th and 5th Characters)
LB Series III
LD Ninety, One Ten, 127, Defender
LH Range Rover Classic
LJ Discovery
LM Range Rover L322
LN Freelander
LP Range Rover P38
LT Discovery Series II

Wheelbase (6th Character)
A Series III 88″, Defender 90″ extra heavy duty, Range Rover Classic 100″, Range Rover (38A) 108″, Freelander
B Series III 88″ Lightweight, Defender 110″ extra heavy duty, Range Rover Classic LSE 108″, Freelander Commercial
C Series III 109″, Defender 130″ extra heavy duty
D Series III 109″
G 100″ (Discovery)
H 110″ (L/R)
K 130″ (L/R)
M Special Build
R 110″ (24 volt)
S 90″ (24 volt)
V 90″ (L/R)

Body Style (7th Character)
A Basic, Soft Top, Pickup, Hardtop Van Commercial, Freelander 3 Door Commercial, Discovery 3 or 5 Door
B Series III 88" Station Wagon, Defender 3door Station Wagon, Range Rover Classic 2 door, Discovery 3 door, Freelander 5 Door
F Defender 4 door Crew cab non Hi-capacity
H High Capacity Pick Up with/without crew cab
M Defender 5door Station Wagon, Range Rover Classic 5 door, Range Rover P38 5 door, Discovery 5 door
R Range Rover Moneverdi

Engine Type (8th Character)
A 1.8L, inline 4 cylinder, ‘K’ Series, High Compression Unleaded
B 2.5L, inline 4 cylinder, turbo-diesel, 19J 2.0L, inline 4 cylinder, ‘L’ Series, turbo-diesel
C 2.5L, inline 4 cylinder, diesel,12J 1.8L, inline 4 cylinder, ‘K’ Series, Low Compression Unleaded
D 2.5L, inline 4 cylinder, petrol, 17H 1.8L, inline 4 cylinder, ‘K’ Series, Low Compression Leaded
E 3.5L, V8 carb, petrol, High Compression,2.4L, inline 4 cylinder, VM Diesel, 2.0L, inline 4 cylinder, BMW M47 (Td4), diesel
F 2.5L, inline 4 cylinder, turbo-diesel (200Tdi/300Tdi) non EGR/cat, 11L or 16L, 1.8L, inline 4 cylinder, ‘K’ Series, High Compression Leaded
G 2.25L, inline 4 cylinder, diesel, 2.5L, V6, ‘KV6’ Series, Unleaded
H 2.25L, inline 4 cylinder, petrol, 2.5L, V6, ‘KV6’ Series, Leaded
J 4.6L, V8 Efi, petrol , 2.5L, V6, ‘KV6’ Series, Ethanol
L 3.5L, V8 Efi, petrol
M 3.9 & 4.0L, V8 Efi, petrol
N 2.5L, inline 4 cylinder, VM Diesel
P 2.6L, inline 6 cylinder, IOE petrol
V 3.5L, V8 carb, petrol, Low Compression
W 2.5L, inline 6 cylinder, BMW Diesel
Y 2.0L, inline 4 cylinder Mpi, petrol
1 4.0L, V8Efi, Low Compression with Cat
2 4.0L, V8Efi, High Compression with Cat
3 4.0L, V8Efi, Low Compression without Cat
6 2.5L, inline 4 cylinder, turbo-diesel (200Tdi/300Tdi) EGR/cat
8 2.5L, inline 5 cylinder, turbo-diesel (Td5) EGR
9 2.5L, inline 5 cylinder, turbo-diesel (Td5) EGR without Cat (Disco II), 2.8L, inline 6 cylinder, M52 BMW petrol

Gearbox Type (9th Character)
1 Series III 4 speed / Right Hand Drive, LT95 4 speed / Right Hand Drive, JATCO 5 speed Auto / Right Hand Drive
2 Series III 4 speed / Left Hand Drive, LT95 4 speed / Left Hand Drive, JATCO 5 speed Auto / Left Hand Drive
3 Chrysler 747 3 speed Auto / Right Hand Drive, ZF 4 speed Auto / Right Hand Drive
4 Chrysler 747 3 speed Auto / Left Hand Drive, ZF 4 speed Auto / Left Hand Drive
5 RHD 4 speed gearbox + overdrive
6 LHD 4 speed gearbox + overdrive
7 LT77 5 Speed Manual / Right Hand Drive, LT77S 5 Speed Manual / Right Hand Drive, LT85 5 Speed Manual / Right Hand Drive, R380 5 Speed Manual / Right Hand Drive, PG1 5 speed5 Speed Manual / Right Hand Drive
8 LT77 5 Speed Manual / Left Hand Drive, LT77S 5 Speed Manual / Left Hand Drive, LT85 5 Speed Manual / Left Hand Drive, R380 5 Speed Manual / Left Hand Drive, PG1 5 speed5 Speed Manual / Left Hand Drive

Year of Build (10th Character)
A 2010
B Ser. III CSW or R/R Phase II, or 90/110 face lift to 1987 or M/Y 2011
C R/R 1986 M/Y or 2012
D R/R 1987 M/Y or 2013
E 1988 or 2014
F 1989 or 2015
G 1990 or 2016
H 1991 or 2017
J 1992 or 2018
K 1993
L 1994
M 1995
T 1996
V 1997
W 1998
X 1999
Y 2000
1 2001
2 2002
3 2003
4 2004
5 2005
6 2006
7 2007
8 2008
9 2009

Build Location (11th Character)
A Solihull, United Kingdom
F Worldwide
G South Africa

Unique Serial Number (12th - 17th Characters)

I've got a fusebox in my garage where the fuel pump relay didn't kick in when it should. That was down to a loose terminal in the fusebox so the ground signal from the engine ECU to operate the relay wasn't getting there. So Bolt's theory is right, if the terminal is loose, you've disturbed it by swapping the relay so it is now making contact, but won't do for long......

Although it might just have been a dodgy relay.

That is absolutely correct. The green sensor that drives the dash gauge goes into the threaded hole in the top hose outlet, while the black one that feeds the ECU goes to the right in the coolant passage to the cylinder head. They have a different thread so you can't, or at least shouldn't be able, to get them in the wrong place. Plugs on the loom are also colour coded with the green plug going on the green sensor and the other one (which is brown on my car) going to the other one.

Sounds like it.

A couple of little electrical jobs. Earlier in the week I switched my headlights on, the dash beeped and told me the LH Dip Beam bulb had failed. As it is a legal requirement in Europe I'd got a set of spare bulbs in the boot, so fitted a new . Two days later I switched the headlights on, the dash beeped and told me the RH Dip Beam bulb had failed. Picked up a pair of Osram Nightbreaker Ultimate 200 bulbs so fitted both of those and put the spare back in its box.

Just occasionally, I'd been getting another beep from the dash, this time it said Key Battery Low but now it was becoming more regular so I picked up a pair of Varta CR2025 batteries to put in it. Now, as we all know, or should know, if the batteries are replaced within 30 seconds it will keep the programming so not need to be re-syned. Yeah right. Dirt around the battery compartment meant it took me the best part of 30 minutes to get the battery compartment out! Old ones out, new ones in and put it back together. Of course by then sync had been well and truly lost so decided this might be a good idea to see if the EKA could be entered with the key rather than cheating and keying it in from the Nanocom. Despite the key not having been used for many months, if not years, EKA went in first time, doors all unlocked, engine started so synced the fob and all back to normal. So my door latch microswitches are good too....

I've got odd days during those dates when I'm committed but would be up for a P38 parts pilfering session most of the time. If you remember I'll quite happily drag things around the yard too.....

That's why I always use Sport mode. In normal Drive when towing uphill your speed will drop but giving it more throttle will cause the gearbox to change down but will then change back up again as soon as you lift off a touch. If you kickdown in Sport it will hang on to the lower gear and give more revs for much longer.

You can get at it from underneath, no need to take anything off, just suspension on high and leave a door open so it doesn't drop on you (or bung an axle stand under it if you are paranoid).