I agree with Aragom, stick with paper. The service schedule says they should be replaced every 24,000 miles so it's not like you'll save anything over a period.

I've got a trade policy and when that came up for renewal, the broker said that my current insurer didn't want to renew it as I had two Range Rovers listed on the policy and they get stolen too frequently. I pointed out that new ones do but mine were 26 and 28 years old and I could probably leave them parked up with the keys in the ignition and still nobody would steal them. He went back to the insurers who agreed to renew on the understanding that they would 'review' the premium if I added any newer Range Rovers....

But, although there has been a lot of publicity about insurance prices going through the roof we had an interesting insurance story a few weeks ago. My other half has a 2007, Mercedes SLK280, 3.0 litre V6, 7 speed Tiptronic gearbox, all the usual toys and rated for 155 mph top speed. She's 55 years old, with over 10 years NCD and no convictions (not even a speeding ticket surprisingly knowing how she drives it). Last year the best quote she could get was with Direct Line at only £163.50 for fully comp, way lower than any other company quoted to the point we even queried it to make sure it was correct. Direct Line will put you on auto-renew unless you tell them otherwise and a few weeks ago, she gets an email thanking her for renewing her insurance. To check the details and download a copy of her up to date certificate, she had to log in to their website so she did to see how much it had gone up by. Result, £163.50, exactly the same as last year. I know they can no longer charge existing customers more than new ones but I'd like to know why hers hasn't gone up at all?

No but as it is listed for the following

Genuine OEM LR078295 - Land Rover Kit (LR078295) part for Freelander 2 2006 - 2014, Range Rover 2010 - 2012, Discovery 4 2010 - 2016, Range Rover Sport 2010 - 2013, Range Rover Evoque 2012 >, Range Rover 2013 >, Range Rover Sport 2014 >, Discovery Sport 2015 >, Discovery 5 2017 >, Range Rover Velar 2017 >, New Range Rover Evoque 2019 >, New Defender 2019 >. Authentic Land Rover Part.

I suspect leaking windscreens isn't something that only affects the odd car.....

It's listed as a sealant pack, and the subsequent picture of it appears to show a couple of tubes of something. Whether it is for installing the screen or for sealing it when it leaks, I've no idea https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/lr078295-adhesive-and-sealer.html

Probably, or at least it will make it a lot easier. There's a thread on the dark side where someone had a similar problem and it appears it was the mastic used when the centre roof panel was welded to the outside edges. His pictures show the windscreen top trim removed see https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/removing-roof-rails-pictures.362212/#post-2441671. He used silicone but really it wants to be a mastic like Tiger Seal or OB1.

How to release the top screen finisher clips is in RAVE, you slide them to one side with an old credit car or similar. You will break at least some of them but they are still available in packs of 5 (https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/dce10038l-clip-retaining.html). One pack should be enough but I think you need something like 8 to replace them all. They are probably used on other cars as when I bought two packs, they came in a pack with Rover markings. In fact I've just checked my drawer of assorted small parts and have an unopened pack of 5.

As the sender doesn't drive the gauge directly but the signal from it is converted to a serial data signal to drive the gauge, it won't move the gauge when you short it. My theory is that the BeCM sees a dead short as a fault so doesn't try to move the gauge but brings on the light as a warning. It might give you a reading if you put a resistor across it but I've no idea what sort of value you would need. Early cars had a sender with just a single wire while later ones have the two wire green sender which I assume you have which is, unfortunately no longer available new so one from a breaker is you only option.

That is missing the sleeve, better to get this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282534660124 as it includes the sleeve which is usually nicely scored. It doesn't include the gaskets but they aren't normally needed anyway. Be careful not to damage the top edge of the piston when you are getting the ring and remains of the old seal out or it can cut through the new seal from underneath so it will only last a few days.

I've got a length of the hose that originally went from pump to valve block with one union cut off and a pressure gauge on it. Put that on and run it for a second or so and it should achieve the best part of 200 psi before it causes my 10A bench supply to trip out. +12V to the Green wire and -ve to the Black, don't put anything onto the Orange wire. Just putting your finger over the end is a good indication though, if you can hold your finger on it with the pump running, it's toast.

I thought after my reply above that by EAS box you meant you were swapping the lot and not just the valve block. Lift the pump up off its mounts, disconnect the blue pipe from the pump and put your finger over the end while it is running. If you can't keep your finger there to stop the air coming out, it's OK but I bet you can.....

Blimey, I'm too cheap, I was asking half that. A guy on the dark side wanted it but he was in Germany, so to prevent problems with customs charges, I dropped it off with my step-daughter in the Netherlands to post it from there. Told him it was on its way and he said that he was working away from home but his parents would take it and I suggested he warned them it was on its way and it was packed in a box that had previously contained a satellite TV receiver (only box I could find that was the right size and strong enough). When the German post tried to deliver it, his parents refused to accept it as they weren't expecting anything and thought it was some sort of scam where you accept something and then get invoiced for it. He asked if it could be sent again but at that time it was still somewhere between Germany and the Netherlands and the idea of wasting more money sending it only for it to be refused again, seemed a bit pointless. It eventually made its way back to the Netherlands and she bought it over when she came here a few months ago. So its well travelled.....

Any leak from the exhaust won't allow the back to drop, it will allow the output from the compressor to go straight out of there so it would never rise in the first place.

At least the desiccant dust is dry so the only thing it will harm are the innards of the valve block not the pipes or air springs. As a temporary fit, bung it in and use it. However, had you asked, I've got a completely refurbed valve block with tested driver pack and the best NRVs I could find sitting here that I did for someone but it never got delivered so came back.

All my bottom clips survived but rather than pull the trim straight off, I slid it sideways and it came off easily once the side trims were off.

I had to have a new screen 3 or 4 years ago (or maybe more, doesn't time fly?). Call me a control freak if you like but I worked on the principle that a windscreen fitter may be perfectly skilled at fitting windscreens but maybe not so skilled at removing old, quite possibly brittle, plastic trims in one piece. So before the guy arrived I took the side trims off so I could slide the bottom trim off (so it doesn't break the clips). Between us we got the top trim off but some of the clips still broke. After he had fitted the screen, he helped me refit the trims. There was enough clips in one piece to hold the top one on but I bought a pack of new ones, and subsequently fitted it properly.

After rising for the last few years, the percentage of EVs sold in the UK has dropped from 16.6% to 16.5% from the latest figures released a few days ago. Reasons given are the high purchase price, the introduction of road tax on them coming shortly, the shortage of charging infrastructure and the cost of charging anywhere other than at home are what are putting off private buyers. I read a review of one that was taken on a family holiday around France recently (I think it was in Autocar and was a test of a BMW X5 EV) and the costs of charging at public charging points worked out at almost the same as I would pay doing a similar trip on LPG (and a P38 isn't exactly the most economical vehicle on the road) but one part that I wasn't aware of was the reduced range when cruising at motorway speeds. The reviewer said he had been getting a range of around 230 miles when cruising at 65mph but on his return wasted so much time looking for a working charger that he drove to the ferry at Calais at the legal limit of 80mph (130kph) and was down to 10% charge after only 140 miles. Now I would probably go further on a tank of fuel if I drove at 65mph but my consumption at 75-80 is still better than I get running around town and I get to where I'm going a lot quicker on a 500 mile journey.

As for Aus, my other half works for Cummins, the truck and ship engine makers, and they have sold a large number of diesel generator sets to Aus to power EV charge points away from the cities. So instead of a car generating pollution , it is simply moved to the means of charging. They have also developed a fully functioning Hydrogen engine for trucks, as have Mercedes, so the haulage industry seem to be ignoring EV technology. We also have an increasing number of trucks running on LPG and CNG.

I'm with you, an EV for someone that only drives in the city and charges at home, makes perfect sense. My sister has one but will be moving house soon to a more rural area and is looking at changing for a hybrid as the range on her current car simply won't be sufficient. Although, as she put it, her husband has a real car so if they need to go any distance, they use that.

phazed wrote:

Would low fuel pressure give reasonable low rev/power performance and reduced higher rev power/performance?

Think about how a fuel injection system works. Depending on signals from the TPS and MAF, the ECU knows how much throttle you are giving it and how much air is flowing into the engine so that dictates how much fuel the engine needs. As the fuel pressure should be a constant that dictates how long the injectors need to open for to give the correct mixture. Lambda sensors are there to give a final check so it can fine tune the duration to keep it correct. This is the short term fuel trims. If the short term trims are constantly one way, either longer or shorter than the programmed duration, the long term trims adjust to bring the short term trims so they adjust around the default position, so sometimes going negative (shorter duration, less fuel) sometimes positive (longer duration, more fuel). What are the long term trims and, when running, what are the short term trims showing? That will tell you if it is a fuel issue or not.

With low fuel pressure, the short term trims may still be adjusting either side of zero but the long term trims will be a constant positive. As long as it isn't by a huge percentage, it is doing what it should. That is why it adjusts the trims, to account for things that aren't quite as they were when everything was new and in spec.

First thought was that the horseshoe shaped plastic bit that the cable from the inner handle has jammed at one end of the travel. That will cause it to not be possible to open the door from either inside or outside. They do tend to go stiff after a while but then I read that you'd had a new latch fitted so that wouldn't be a possibility. Unless, when the latch was fitted the cable wasn't connected properly and it has snagged. With the window fully open you should be able to see it by looking down the window and cause it to move by pulling on the inside door handle. If it doesn't move and that handle has gone floppy, then that will almost certainly confirm the problem.

Very early cars had very long leads as they ran along the back axle, later ones (from 97 MY) are shorter. They are all the same, the only differences are the lengths of the cables and the locations of the grommets. In fact, my Ascot, which being a 96, has the very long ones on the back and when one of those failed I chopped the plug off a spare front and soldered the wires to the cable from the original one.

That's because RAVE is a workshop manual that tells you how to do things, not a parts list that gives the parts numbers of the bits. The one I have for Mercedes is in two sections, WIS (Workshop Information System, the equivalent to RAVE) and EPC (Electronic Parts Catalogue the equivalent to LRCat or the genuine JLR site).

Yes they should. They show the amount of oxygen in the exhaust which varies with the mixture and will never stay constant. They will always flip flop from one extreme to the other as the ECU fine tunes the mixture. Static means they are either giving a fixed output, which they should never do, or they have failed and the ECU is putting out a failsafe fixed voltage which is what you are seeing.